Today's Message Index:
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1. 11:59 AM - Re: Re: New Tail (Docstevew1@aol.com)
2. 12:38 PM - RV List...Re: Fresh Air Vents (Dick DeCramer)
Message 1
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Del,
If your RV 6 empennage is still available, I'll take it. Email me off line
at _docstevew1@aol.com_ (mailto:docstevew1@aol.com) , or call me at
951-600-9329.
Thanks,
Steve Weidler
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV List...Re: Fresh Air Vents |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -2.0210
--> RV6-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
Charles...
Here is what I have done to my RV6 for Minnesota winter flight. I only
have one year's experience but it has proven okay so far in +17 degree temp
on the ground. My OAT is not functioning but it was colder aloft.
Rear baggage area...bulkhead closure. Corrugations are filled with foam
weather strip material to block air movement from the tailcone which is a
real problem. Tonneau cover over the top opening but no other insulation,
carpet or upholstery here. Flap pushrod holes are as small as possible
with small aluminum extensions on the flaps which cover the holes when
flaps are up.
Wing root...aileron torque tubes have a heavy nylon ripstop cone shaped
sleeve attached to the tube and closing the lightening hole in the fuselage
hole forming a seal.
Sliding canopy..."D" shaped foam gasket around the aft canopy fairings
where the canopy fairing meets the fuselage. Skirts have reinforcing brace
from the inside of the canopy side frame to the bottom of the skirt to
prevent the canopy sides from being spread open by low pressure air moving
around the fuselage. This bracket was not shown on Van's RV6 plans but is
standard now on RV7 canopies and very late RV6 prints. Canopy skirts
extend 3/4" + or - over the fuselage sides from about 6" aft of the
windscreen back to the aft canopy fairing. This is fitted so the last inch
of canopy travel as it is being closed brings the skirt in solid contact
with the fuselage side skin. UHMW tape is used to prevent chaffing.
Surprisingly no leaks have been noticed around the windscreen/canopy joint
and I have no gasket there at all but there is a fairly tight fit.
Cockpit....No sound deadening material at all ( it doesn't appear to sound
any different than those with it when using good headsets) therefore no
insulation value either. I have wall upholstery from the main spar
bulkhead to the baggage area. No flooring or upholstery material forward
of the spar. I have the material and it is one of those things on the "do"
list but now I would rather just fly the airplane rather than work on it.
Heating system...0-320 with Vetterman exhaust with TWO Rick Robins heat
muffs, one on each side. Each with 2" SCAT tubing going to Rick Robins
firewall heat valves, one for the pilot & one for the passenger with
separate heater valve controls. Separate air sources are from the cool
side of the engine baffling and enter the aft side of the muff so air is
pushed forward through the muff before gong to the valves. This slows the
air flow so it heats better...Robins also builds a baffle in the Inlet side
of his muffs for that reason.
Results are good heating with ground temps down to about +15. During flight
the jacket can be unzipped half way and thin gloves may be used and even
removed after everything gets warmed up. Above that the heat can be too
much unless the valves are partially closed. Below +15 the ambient temps
at lower altitudes would be about 0 and the cold sides of the unupholstered
portions of the fuselage near the legs get pretty cold and the heat system
cannot keep up...there is only .032 aluminum between you and the subzero
air! Someday I will put the floor and the rest of the upholstery in but
flying at those temps present other problems such as preheating, preflight
inspections and even getting the aircraft which is all doable but very
uncomfortable for a guy my age of 63. You young guys can fly then but I
would rather stay home. Also bright sun does make heating much easier vs.
cloudy days.
Dick DeCramer
Northfield, MN
N500DD RV6 Slider
100 Hrs plus
diesel@rconnect.com
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