Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:39 PM - Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/18/06 (normanjd@aol.com)
2. 09:39 PM - Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/18/06 (normanjd@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/18/06 |
--> RV6-List message posted by: normanjd@aol.com
Norman Donaldson
(734) 676-7366
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6-List Digest Server <rv6-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thu, 18 May 2006 23:57:36 -0700
Subject: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/18/06
*
================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
Today's complete RV6-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV6-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv6-list/Digest.RV6-List.2006-05-18.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv6-list/Digest.RV6-List.2006-05-18.txt
==============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
==============================================
RV6-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Thu 05/18/06: 2
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:01 AM - Re: drilling out rivets (sharkey@sover.net)
2. 08:44 AM - Re: drilling out rivets (J. Brunke)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 08:01:11 AM PST US
Subject: Re: RV6-List: drilling out rivets
From: sharkey@sover.net
--> RV6-List message posted by: sharkey@sover.net
Structural AD rivets have a small dimple in the factory head for
identification. Use this to center a size smaller drill and make a hole
through or nearly through the rivet without hitting the parent metal if
at
all possible. This should relieve some of the expansion pressure on the
hole from the set rivet. Next using a same size drill remove the head
of the rivet without touching the parent metal if possible. The rivet
stem can then be driven out of the hole with a drift punch. If its
still
tight drill it out as far as necessary to loosen it, again without
damaging the parent metal. Ironically if a rivet is hard to remove it
was
well set and strong, regardless of how ugly it looked. Poorly set
rivets
tend to fall out of the hole when the head is removed so you know that
you
were right to replace them.
Jim Sharkey
RV6 Tip Up Finishing
> Most rivets will have to be drilled out from the manufactured head
side
> since in most cases you won't be able to get to the shop head side.
For
> this reason you should learn the conventional way of removing them,
it's
> not difficult, it just takes a little practice and then you won't have
> to go looking for the special tool every time you have to drill out a
> rivet, which for most of us is/was OFTEN. Also, because most rivets on
> an RV are dimpled or countersunk, the shank will have to be driven out
> towards the shop head side which means that the manufactured head must
> be removed.
>
> Dave B. -6 So Cal
> EAA Technical Counselor
>
> J. Brunke wrote:
>
>> --> RV6-List message posted by: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727@comcast.net>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some
>> good replys.
>>
>> I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes
>> part of the process.
>>
>> There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is usually
>> used in woodworking but I
>> tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put
>> together. The multi-master is usually used
>> for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can lie
>> flat on a surface and make a cut to
>> material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a
>> rivet. I was able to cut through the
>> shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the
>> rivet. It was quick and I didn't have to
>> worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work
>> well where the hole was dimpled, but
>> did well on a flat surface.
>>
>> My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using this
>> procedure? I welcome any comments.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> John Brunke
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV6-List
>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 08:44:29 AM PST US
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: drilling out rivets
--> RV6-List message posted by: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727@comcast.net>
Thanks for all the replys. I agree that drilling out is probably the
best
way to remove
rivets. I was just looking for another way that might be just as easy
as
drilling out.
It's all part of the learning experience. And man, I'm learning!
John
----- Original Message -----
From: <sharkey@sover.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV6-List: drilling out rivets
> --> RV6-List message posted by: sharkey@sover.net
>
> Structural AD rivets have a small dimple in the factory head for
> identification. Use this to center a "size smaller" drill and make a
hole
> through or nearly through the rivet without hitting the parent metal
if at
> all possible. This should relieve some of the expansion pressure on
the
> hole from the set rivet. Next using a "same size" drill remove the
head
> of the rivet without touching the parent metal if possible. The rivet
> stem can then be driven out of the hole with a drift punch. If it's
still
> tight drill it out as far as necessary to loosen it, again without
> damaging the parent metal. Ironically if a rivet is hard to remove
it was
> well set and strong, regardless of how ugly it looked. Poorly set
rivets
> tend to fall out of the hole when the head is removed so you know
that you
> were right to replace them.
> Jim Sharkey
> RV6 Tip Up Finishing
>
>> Most rivets will have to be drilled out from the manufactured head
side
>> since in most cases you won't be able to get to the shop head side.
For
>> this reason you should learn the conventional way of removing them,
it's
>> not difficult, it just takes a little practice and then you won't
have
>> to go looking for the special tool every time you have to drill out a
>> rivet, which for most of us is/was OFTEN. Also, because most rivets
on
>> an RV are dimpled or countersunk, the shank will have to be driven
out
>> towards the shop head side which means that the manufactured head
must
>> be removed.
>>
>> Dave B. -6 So Cal
>> EAA Technical Counselor
>>
>> J. Brunke wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV6-List message posted by: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727@comcast.net>
>>>
>>> Dear Listers,
>>>
>>> I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some
>>> good replys.
>>>
>>> I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes
>>> part of the process.
>>>
>>> There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is
usually
>>> used in woodworking but I
>>> tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put
>>> together. The multi-master is usually used
>>> for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can
lie
>>> flat on a surface and make a cut to
>>> material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a
>>> rivet. I was able to cut through the
>>> shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the
>>> rivet. It was quick and I didn't have to
>>> worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work
>>> well where the hole was dimpled, but
>>> did well on a flat surface.
>>>
>>> My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using
this
>>> procedure? I welcome any comments.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> John Brunke
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV6-List
>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/18/06 |
--> RV6-List message posted by: normanjd@aol.com
Norman Donaldson
(734) 676-7366
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6-List Digest Server <rv6-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thu, 18 May 2006 23:57:36 -0700
Subject: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/18/06
*
================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
Today's complete RV6-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV6-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv6-list/Digest.RV6-List.2006-05-18.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv6-list/Digest.RV6-List.2006-05-18.txt
==============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
==============================================
RV6-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Thu 05/18/06: 2
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:01 AM - Re: drilling out rivets (sharkey@sover.net)
2. 08:44 AM - Re: drilling out rivets (J. Brunke)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 08:01:11 AM PST US
Subject: Re: RV6-List: drilling out rivets
From: sharkey@sover.net
--> RV6-List message posted by: sharkey@sover.net
Structural AD rivets have a small dimple in the factory head for
identification. Use this to center a size smaller drill and make a hole
through or nearly through the rivet without hitting the parent metal if
at
all possible. This should relieve some of the expansion pressure on the
hole from the set rivet. Next using a same size drill remove the head
of the rivet without touching the parent metal if possible. The rivet
stem can then be driven out of the hole with a drift punch. If its
still
tight drill it out as far as necessary to loosen it, again without
damaging the parent metal. Ironically if a rivet is hard to remove it
was
well set and strong, regardless of how ugly it looked. Poorly set
rivets
tend to fall out of the hole when the head is removed so you know that
you
were right to replace them.
Jim Sharkey
RV6 Tip Up Finishing
> Most rivets will have to be drilled out from the manufactured head
side
> since in most cases you won't be able to get to the shop head side.
For
> this reason you should learn the conventional way of removing them,
it's
> not difficult, it just takes a little practice and then you won't have
> to go looking for the special tool every time you have to drill out a
> rivet, which for most of us is/was OFTEN. Also, because most rivets on
> an RV are dimpled or countersunk, the shank will have to be driven out
> towards the shop head side which means that the manufactured head must
> be removed.
>
> Dave B. -6 So Cal
> EAA Technical Counselor
>
> J. Brunke wrote:
>
>> --> RV6-List message posted by: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727@comcast.net>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some
>> good replys.
>>
>> I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes
>> part of the process.
>>
>> There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is usually
>> used in woodworking but I
>> tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put
>> together. The multi-master is usually used
>> for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can lie
>> flat on a surface and make a cut to
>> material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a
>> rivet. I was able to cut through the
>> shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the
>> rivet. It was quick and I didn't have to
>> worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work
>> well where the hole was dimpled, but
>> did well on a flat surface.
>>
>> My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using this
>> procedure? I welcome any comments.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> John Brunke
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV6-List
>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 08:44:29 AM PST US
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: drilling out rivets
--> RV6-List message posted by: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727@comcast.net>
Thanks for all the replys. I agree that drilling out is probably the
best
way to remove
rivets. I was just looking for another way that might be just as easy
as
drilling out.
It's all part of the learning experience. And man, I'm learning!
John
----- Original Message -----
From: <sharkey@sover.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV6-List: drilling out rivets
> --> RV6-List message posted by: sharkey@sover.net
>
> Structural AD rivets have a small dimple in the factory head for
> identification. Use this to center a "size smaller" drill and make a
hole
> through or nearly through the rivet without hitting the parent metal
if at
> all possible. This should relieve some of the expansion pressure on
the
> hole from the set rivet. Next using a "same size" drill remove the
head
> of the rivet without touching the parent metal if possible. The rivet
> stem can then be driven out of the hole with a drift punch. If it's
still
> tight drill it out as far as necessary to loosen it, again without
> damaging the parent metal. Ironically if a rivet is hard to remove
it was
> well set and strong, regardless of how ugly it looked. Poorly set
rivets
> tend to fall out of the hole when the head is removed so you know
that you
> were right to replace them.
> Jim Sharkey
> RV6 Tip Up Finishing
>
>> Most rivets will have to be drilled out from the manufactured head
side
>> since in most cases you won't be able to get to the shop head side.
For
>> this reason you should learn the conventional way of removing them,
it's
>> not difficult, it just takes a little practice and then you won't
have
>> to go looking for the special tool every time you have to drill out a
>> rivet, which for most of us is/was OFTEN. Also, because most rivets
on
>> an RV are dimpled or countersunk, the shank will have to be driven
out
>> towards the shop head side which means that the manufactured head
must
>> be removed.
>>
>> Dave B. -6 So Cal
>> EAA Technical Counselor
>>
>> J. Brunke wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV6-List message posted by: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727@comcast.net>
>>>
>>> Dear Listers,
>>>
>>> I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some
>>> good replys.
>>>
>>> I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes
>>> part of the process.
>>>
>>> There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is
usually
>>> used in woodworking but I
>>> tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put
>>> together. The multi-master is usually used
>>> for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can
lie
>>> flat on a surface and make a cut to
>>> material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a
>>> rivet. I was able to cut through the
>>> shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the
>>> rivet. It was quick and I didn't have to
>>> worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work
>>> well where the hole was dimpled, but
>>> did well on a flat surface.
>>>
>>> My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using
this
>>> procedure? I welcome any comments.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> John Brunke
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV6-List
>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
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