RV6-List Digest Archive

Sat 09/11/10


Total Messages Posted: 2



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 09:31 AM - F-6106, Forward Top Skin Installation Questions (Colleen and Brett Herrick)
     2. 03:43 PM - Re: F-6106, Forward Top Skin Installation Questions (Jonathan Ludgater)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 09:31:03 AM PST US
    From: "Colleen and Brett Herrick" <colleenandbrett@comcast.net>
    Subject: F-6106, Forward Top Skin Installation Questions
    A couple of questions about installing the F-6106, Forward Top Skin for the slider canopy: 1.) After fitting this skin and before riveting it in place does one make the cutout for the instrument panel or wait until fitting the canopy frame and canopy? 2.) The plans call for a 1 1/2 inch overhang with the instrument panel to reduce the glare on the instrument panel. In the George Orndorff tape he recommends increasing this overhang to 3 inches to further reduce the glare on instrument panel. Particularly with more glass instrument panels, what overhang have folks found works best? 3.) On the forward edge of this skin, how much should it extend beyond the firewall flange? I am assuming that the objective is that the flange of the hinge that connects the cowling to the fuselage is to be fully supported by the cowling and the F-6106 Forward Top Skin / firewall flange and the location of where the cowling touches the Forward Top Skin can be anywhere in the middle of the hinge (i.e. the middle portion of the hinge with the loops and wire). Correct? 4) On the forward edge of this skin, the plans show that this skin is countersunk for attaching the hinge rather than dimpling (i.e. the same as has been done on the vertical sides of my quickbuild fuselage). But, I noticed that on the bottom edge of the fuselage has dimpled rather than countersunk. Is this an issue? Thanks. Brett Herrick RV-6AQ, Columbus, IN


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:43:51 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: F-6106, Forward Top Skin Installation Questions
    From: Jonathan Ludgater <ludgater@gmail.com>
    On 12/09/2010, Colleen and Brett Herrick <colleenandbrett@comcast.net> wrote: > A couple of questions about installing the F-6106, Forward Top Skin for the > slider canopy: > > 1.) After fitting this skin and before riveting it in place does one make > the cutout for the instrument panel or wait until fitting the canopy frame > and canopy? Leave the riveting if this skin as long as possible, get the instrument panel sorted and fitted first, dollars to donuts you will rivet the skin and then find that you have something to do with rudder pedals, brakes, wiring, electrics and have a hard time getting to it. > > 2.) The plans call for a 1 1/2 inch overhang with the instrument panel to > reduce the glare on the instrument panel. In the George Orndorff tape he > recommends increasing this overhang to 3 inches to further reduce the glare > on instrument panel. Particularly with more glass instrument panels, what > overhang have folks found works best? Left around 2" on ours works fine with a mixture of glass and steam instruments. > > 3.) On the forward edge of this skin, how much should it extend beyond the > firewall flange? I am assuming that the objective is that the flange of the > hinge that connects the cowling to the fuselage is to be fully supported by > the cowling and the F-6106 Forward Top Skin / firewall flange and the > location of where the cowling touches the Forward Top Skin can be anywhere > in the middle of the hinge (i.e. the middle portion of the hinge with the > loops and wire). Correct? Depends on what cowl attatch you plan to use if hinges the overlap on the plans is fine if something else then some more may be better, you can always cut it off later if it is too much! > > 4) On the forward edge of this skin, the plans show that this skin is > countersunk for attaching the hinge rather than dimpling (i.e. the same as > has been done on the vertical sides of my quickbuild fuselage). But, I > noticed that on the bottom edge of the fuselage has dimpled rather than > countersunk. Is this an issue? We dimpled ours and that seem to be ok, would have preferred to use camlocks to put the cowl on though, costs more (kit available via RV yeller pages) but so much more user friendly, especially if you have a nosewheel. Very best of luck, Jon ludgater. > > Thanks. > > Brett Herrick > RV-6AQ, Columbus, IN




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