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1. 03:27 PM - Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/11/10 (Btinn@aol.com)
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| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/11/10 |
Colleen and Brett,
By all means, do not rush to rivet that top panel into place. I found that
when I ran my engine for the first couple of times that I was not at all
happy with my engine instruments and sensors. I elected to replace them with
a Dynon EMS and it was well worth the effort and expense. That would have
been a nightmare, however, if I had the top skin riveted in place. This also
allows you to check that everything works including radios, switches
breakers and instruments before you are committed to closing this excellent
access to that area. The alternative is laying on your back in a very
uncomfortable position and working by feel at times.
The engine can be run before you install the top skin and windshield
without any problems at all and I was so happy that I did it that way. (The only
problem may be that you have to turn you cap around backwards to keep it
from blowing away.) PUT OFF RIVETING THIS SKIN AS LONG AS YOU POSSIBLY CAN.
You will love yourself for doing so.
I left my skin overhang about what the Orindorffs recommended, or maybe a
little more, to be better able to read the glass instrument screens. It can
always be trimmed off more later with a dremel cutoff wheel if you don't
like it that long but Aluminum sheet doesn't grow very well if you cut it too
short now.
The bottom skin is thicker than the sides. It is thick enough to be able to
countersink. If you try to dimple skin this thick sometimes it will leave
a small "lump" or swelling around it that does not make quite as smooth a
surface when riveted as can be done with thin dimpled skins. The strength
will not be compromised, but the looks may suffer.
Best wishes
Bob Tinnell RV-6A (Very slow build)
Salem, OR
In a message dated 9/12/2010 12:03:38 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6-list@matronics.com writes:
*
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RV6-List Digest Archive
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Total Messages Posted Sat 09/11/10: 2
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Today's Message Index:
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1. 09:31 AM - F-6106, Forward Top Skin Installation Questions (Colleen
and Brett Herrick)
2. 03:43 PM - Re: F-6106, Forward Top Skin Installation Questions
(Jonathan Ludgater)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 09:31:03 AM PST US
From: "Colleen and Brett Herrick" <colleenandbrett@comcast.net>
Subject: RV6-List: F-6106, Forward Top Skin Installation Questions
A couple of questions about installing the F-6106, Forward Top Skin for
the slider canopy:
1.) After fitting this skin and before riveting it in place does one
make the cutout for the instrument panel or wait until fitting the
canopy frame and canopy?
2.) The plans call for a 1 1/2 inch overhang with the instrument panel
to reduce the glare on the instrument panel. In the George Orndorff
tape he recommends increasing this overhang to 3 inches to further
reduce the glare on instrument panel. Particularly with more glass
instrument panels, what overhang have folks found works best?
3.) On the forward edge of this skin, how much should it extend beyond
the firewall flange? I am assuming that the objective is that the
flange of the hinge that connects the cowling to the fuselage is to be
fully supported by the cowling and the F-6106 Forward Top Skin /
firewall flange and the location of where the cowling touches the
Forward Top Skin can be anywhere in the middle of the hinge (i.e. the
middle portion of the hinge with the loops and wire). Correct?
4) On the forward edge of this skin, the plans show that this skin is
countersunk for attaching the hinge rather than dimpling (i.e. the same
as has been done on the vertical sides of my quickbuild fuselage). But,
I noticed that on the bottom edge of the fuselage has dimpled rather
than countersunk. Is this an issue?
Thanks.
Brett Herrick
RV-6AQ, Columbus, IN
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 03:43:51 PM PST US
Subject: Re: RV6-List: F-6106, Forward Top Skin Installation Questions
From: Jonathan Ludgater <ludgater@gmail.com>
On 12/09/2010, Colleen and Brett Herrick <colleenandbrett@comcast.net>
wrote:
> A couple of questions about installing the F-6106, Forward Top Skin for
the
> slider canopy:
>
> 1.) After fitting this skin and before riveting it in place does one
make
> the cutout for the instrument panel or wait until fitting the canopy
frame
> and canopy?
Leave the riveting if this skin as long as possible, get the
instrument panel sorted and fitted first, dollars to donuts you will
rivet the skin and then find that you have something to do with rudder
pedals, brakes, wiring, electrics and have a hard time getting to it.
>
> 2.) The plans call for a 1 1/2 inch overhang with the instrument panel t
o
> reduce the glare on the instrument panel. In the George Orndorff tape he
> recommends increasing this overhang to 3 inches to further reduce the
glare
> on instrument panel. Particularly with more glass instrument panels,
what
> overhang have folks found works best?
Left around 2" on ours works fine with a mixture of glass and steam
instruments.
>
> 3.) On the forward edge of this skin, how much should it extend beyond
the
> firewall flange? I am assuming that the objective is that the flange of
the
> hinge that connects the cowling to the fuselage is to be fully supported
by
> the cowling and the F-6106 Forward Top Skin / firewall flange and the
> location of where the cowling touches the Forward Top Skin can be
anywhere
> in the middle of the hinge (i.e. the middle portion of the hinge with the
> loops and wire). Correct?
Depends on what cowl attatch you plan to use if hinges the overlap on
the plans is fine if something else then some more may be better, you
can always cut it off later if it is too much!
>
> 4) On the forward edge of this skin, the plans show that this skin is
> countersunk for attaching the hinge rather than dimpling (i.e. the same
as
> has been done on the vertical sides of my quickbuild fuselage). But, I
> noticed that on the bottom edge of the fuselage has dimpled rather than
> countersunk. Is this an issue?
We dimpled ours and that seem to be ok, would have preferred to use
camlocks to put the cowl on though, costs more (kit available via RV
yeller pages) but so much more user friendly, especially if you have a
nosewheel. Very best of luck, Jon ludgater.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Brett Herrick
> RV-6AQ, Columbus, IN
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