Today's Message Index:
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1. 12:53 AM - Re: Quiet Drills (JRWillJR@AOL.com)
2. 05:53 PM - Re: Quiet Drills-SAFETY WARNING (Merems)
3. 06:25 PM - Re: Quiet Drills-SAFETY WARNING (Brooks Wolfe)
4. 07:00 PM - Compressors (John)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Quiet Drills |
--> RV7-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
The Sioux Palm drill is quiet, stingy on air, turns at the required RPM and
does not spit oil all over. Home Depot does not sell aircraft quality air
tools but you can get a decent compressor there. The CH drill is likely your
problem. Do Not Archive. JR
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Quiet Drills-SAFETY WARNING |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
Ross,
No worries.
I picked up a pair of surplus Martin Baker GRU7's ejection seats off an A-6E
Intruder at the Boneyard. The seats are preferred over the MK7 because of
the canopy breaker bar. This way I don't have to install any pyros in the
tip up canopy. Any GRU7 manufactured after December 1974 is rated 0/0, so
don't buy anything older then that. You can determine the date of mfg by
looking at the placard located on the lower left side of the seat frame,
next to the secondary release link. Be advised, installing the GRU7 at a 5
degree side inclination angle will help trajectory separation during eject
sequencing over a 3 degree installation.
So I will keep building my RV-7A using my Molecular Transforming Nuclear
Fusing Electric Drill (MTNFED).
Thanks for the heads up.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Quiet Drills-SAFETY WARNING
> --> RV7-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer
<rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
>
> Paul,
>
> You have overlooked a very major point. Everyone
> except you is using the air drill not only because
> they are light and small and last forever and if oiled
> appropriately ( 2 or three drops every building
> session) don't spit any oil and are fairly quite if
> you are using a quality drill with a good silencer,
> but because of airworthiness concerns. It is on page
> one of the construction manual in bold type, Do not
> use electric hand tools on this aircraft, structural
> damage will be the result of doing so! Induction
> motors immerse the highly conductive aluminum
> components in a very damaging electromagnetic
> inductive field surrounding the motor. This
> electromagnetic field alters the microstructure of the
> structural grade aluminum and predisposes the flight
> critical components to fatigue failures. This is a
> very proven and thoroughly documented cause of
> structural failures in early all-metal aircraft.
>
> Please, please do not make this mistake as there will
> surely be grave consequences for you and your
> passengers and horrific insurance problems for the
> rest of us. If you do decide to use electric hand
> tools I would recommend fully disclosing this to your
> insurance company prior to beginning construction of
> the horizontal stabilizer. Failure to do so could
> result in denial of an otherwise justified claim.
>
> On a side note, If it is a 7A you are building please
> be forewarned that the induced form drag from the nose
> wheel creates forward pitching tendency that can only
> be overcome by additional elevator deflection thereby
> setting up an oscillation that can quickly get out of
> control and further compound the fatigue problems
> initiated with the electric drill motor.
>
> The only practical salvation from these problems is to
> build a -7 model and utilize a sliding canopy so that
> during the inevitable crash and rollover you are
> protected by the superior structural integrity of the
> sliding canopy.
>
> Just food for thought from a totally ambiguous
> builder.
>
> Ross Schlotthauer
> RV-7 Fuse
>
>
> --- Merems <merems@cox.net> wrote:
> > --> RV7-List message posted by: "Merems"
> > <merems@cox.net>
> >
> > I have seen posting from builders about there mega
> > compressors and their air drills. Everyone knows
> > that if your really are going to be an airplane
> > builder you must use air drills. Just about every
> > major aircraft company uses air drills, so they must
> > be the right choice.
> >
> > Well here is some real food for thought if you
> > haven't made the plunge yet. I image most builders
> > build there RV's in their garage. Most of these
> > garages maybe attached to their homes and many are
> > in a neighborhoods. I used electric drills on my
> > RV-4 and I thought I would graduate up to the big
> > leagues with an air drill on my RV-7 project. I
> > have been eyeing that big 60 gallon upright 220 Volt
> > Husky compressor at Home Depot for years. My time
> > had come, I was going to load that baby in the back
> > of my pickup and join the few, the proud the, "real"
> > builders. Then I saw it, on sale, price reduced, a
> > CH air drill at Home Depot. I thought to my self, I
> > can buy it an see if it has a good "teasing"
> > throttle on it. This is important because without
> > slow speed control of the drill, it will very hard
> > to use. So I bought it and took it home and hooked
> > it up to my 20 gal. 110 volt compressor I have had
> > for 20 years. I wanted to see how loud the drill
> > was and how many holes I co!
> > uld drill until the compressor would startup. I got
> > about 5 holes drilled and the compressor chimed in.
> > I had the pressure set to 65-70 psi. Not only was
> > the whine of the air drill motor and the compressor
> > cranking in to stay up with every 5 holes annoying
> > to my ears, but the spitting of the light oil from
> > the air drill onto my hands and onto the parts I was
> > drilling made matters intolerable. Seeing that I
> > could barely tolerate the noise in the shop, my
> > neighbors would have to endure some of the
> > collateral noise coming from my shop. Considering
> > there are over 10,000 rivets in an RV, my compressor
> > would mostly be running continuously when I would be
> > drilling and a few pints of oil (exaggerated) would
> > be misting on my parts. If I bought the 60 gallon
> > compressor it wouldn't run as much, but still quiet
> > a bit.
> >
> > After considering the noise (to me and my
> > neighbors-which might just be your wife in the room
> > next to the garage), the oily mess, the cost of the
> > Mega compressor, I decided the electric drill worked
> > before and it will work again. I researched what
> > was available on the market and was disappointed by
> > the weight of many of the electric drills out there.
> > If you buy the cheep electric drills, they won't
> > last through the project. I settled on a Makita
> > 6410 3/8 VSR 2200 RPM. It has a low noise rating
> > and is 1/2 lbs or so lighter then any other
> > "quality" drill on the market. I bought it for
> > $32.00 delivered (Tool King).
> >
> > Van talks about cutting speeds of 2000-3000 rpms to
> > drill aluminum. Since most of the new RV kits are
> > pre-punched, you are not drilling out a lot of
> > material. In fact, I find that I run my drill
> > rather slowly most of the time. When I microstop
> > machine countersink is when I run my drill at full
> > bore.
> >
> > Food for thought.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > latest messages.
> > List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV7-List.htm
> > Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Quiet Drills-SAFETY WARNING |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Brooks Wolfe" <slipstream13@earthlink.net>
=0D
Wow, ejection seats make my idea of using a salvage tailhook for shortfield
landings seem pretty mundane!=0D
=0D
Brooks=0D
=0D
Do not archive.=0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>=0D
=0D
Ross,=0D
=0D
No worries.=0D
=0D
I picked up a pair of surplus Martin Baker GRU7's ejection seats off an A-6E=0D
Intruder at the Boneyard.
Message 4
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--> RV7-List message posted by: John <jleclercq@charter.net>
Geese guys,
All this talk about noisy oil less or quieter oil bath type compressors has finally
gotten to me and must add my 2 cents worth.. I have both types and when it comes
to air
tool use, the oil bath type beats the other noisy and slow beast hands down. In
fact
I've got this loud oil less compressor (headache machine) that I think needs a
new
home...perhaps the miserable guy down the street who is always asking me "your
not
really going to fly that are you".
Yes that's it! ; )
Do Not Archive
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