Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:16 PM - Elevator trim tab bend problems (Allen Fulmer)
2. 02:34 PM - Re: Elevator trim tab bend problems (Stein Bruch)
3. 02:44 PM - sec: unclassified Re: Elevator trim tab bend problems (Francis, David CMDR)
4. 02:51 PM - Re: Elevator trim tab bend problems (Dennis Parker)
5. 05:47 PM - Re: Elevator trim tab bend problems ()
6. 06:39 PM - Re: Elevator trim tab bend problems (Hopperdhh@AOL.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Elevator trim tab bend problems |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
Feeling rather incompetent after scrapping my second attempt to bend the
tabs on the elevator trim tab. Have read/reread the instructions, studied
the photos, read several posts on the subject but still messed it up a
second time! Have ordered 2 more trim tab skins from Van's but sure do need
to figure out how I am going to do this differently the next time! Right
now, I don't have a clue!
I have made the wood block wedges as depicted in the pictures referenced in
the instructions. Used Scotch brand "Removable Double Sided Tape" on the
wedge, the clamping block, and the bench, and can just not seem to keep the
assembly from moving as I tap the tab with a block of wood. The tab starts
to bend okay but as I have to increase the angle of the wood block that is
bending the tab, the whole thing starts to move including the wedge inside.
Thus the bend is just a mess!! I have clamped the setup so tightly that I
am "squashing" the trailing edge!
I seem to be one of only a few who have had this problem?? I found one
builder in the archives that just cut the tabs off and fabricated a little
rib to take the place of the tab. I guess this would work too but I sure
would like to learn to do it like the factory and apparently most others are
able to do! I have not even attempted the tabs on the elevator, as I wanted
to make sure I had the technique down pat before taking a chance on screwing
that up!
Oh, and I love the detail on the plans: One set of tabs is supposed to be
bent 89 degrees and the other 91 degrees! Yeah, right!
Feeling stupid in Alabama,
Allen Fulmer
808AF applied for
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim tab bend problems |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Allen,
I have now built 4 tails (2 RV6's, 1 RV7, & 1 RV8), so I can sympathize with your
pain, but....
Instead of using that pain in the rear method, I've found it easier to do one of
two things.
1), use a hand seamer (good one, not the vice grip kind) and simple grab the tab
and bend it over. You can get most of the bend, then just "massage the final
bit".
2), Cut them off and fabricate a small balsa/wood/foam/fiberglas rib in the end.
Easy Peasy!
In all likelyhood, if it hasn't worked twice for you, it won't work a third time,
so it's time to try something different!
Good luck,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
>
>Feeling rather incompetent after scrapping my second attempt to bend the
>tabs on the elevator trim tab. Have read/reread the instructions, studied
>the photos, read several posts on the subject but still messed it up a
>second time! Have ordered 2 more trim tab skins from Van's but sure do need
>to figure out how I am going to do this differently the next time! Right
>now, I don't have a clue!
>
>I have made the wood block wedges as depicted in the pictures referenced in
>the instructions. Used Scotch brand "Removable Double Sided Tape" on the
>wedge, the clamping block, and the bench, and can just not seem to keep the
>assembly from moving as I tap the tab with a block of wood. The tab starts
>to bend okay but as I have to increase the angle of the wood block that is
>bending the tab, the whole thing starts to move including the wedge inside.
>Thus the bend is just a mess!! I have clamped the setup so tightly that I
>am "squashing" the trailing edge!
>
>I seem to be one of only a few who have had this problem?? I found one
>builder in the archives that just cut the tabs off and fabricated a little
>rib to take the place of the tab. I guess this would work too but I sure
>would like to learn to do it like the factory and apparently most others are
>able to do! I have not even attempted the tabs on the elevator, as I wanted
>to make sure I had the technique down pat before taking a chance on screwing
>that up!
>
>Oh, and I love the detail on the plans: One set of tabs is supposed to be
>bent 89 degrees and the other 91 degrees! Yeah, right!
>
>Feeling stupid in Alabama,
>
>Allen Fulmer
>808AF applied for
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Elevator trim tab bend problems |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Alan,
Dont you dare feel stupid in Alabama or elsewhere. I had the same problem
and after talking to a couple of repeat offenders I took their advice, cut
my losses and build a neat little rib and riveted it into the trim tab, just
like all those experienced builders did. They dont like wasting their time.
Wait till you build the fuselage, you aint seen nothing yet.
David Francis, RV7, VH-ZEE, Canberra, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Allen Fulmer [mailto:afulmer@charter.net]
Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim tab bend problems
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
Feeling rather incompetent after scrapping my second attempt to bend the
tabs on the elevator trim tab. Have read/reread the instructions, studied
the photos, read several posts on the subject but still messed it up a
second time! Have ordered 2 more trim tab skins from Van's but sure do need
to figure out how I am going to do this differently the next time! Right
now, I don't have a clue!
_==========================
Message 4
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| Subject: | Elevator trim tab bend problems |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Dennis Parker" <dennis@k2workflow.com>
Allen
By no means an expert, but as I have literally just done this task
yesterday I thought I would pass a couple of comments. Let me say that I
have been fortunate to have the guidance of an experienced builder to
assist in the process, otherwise like you, I probably would have an
order into Van's for another trim tab.
1. We followed the plans exactly as depicted
2. The size of the wood we used to manufacture the clamp is interesting
and may be the issue you are having. I was surprised when Chalkie
selected an extremely hard wood which is as at least one and half inches
thick to manufacture the wedge. I guess with this extra width to "grip"
the tab it helps with the moving issue. The botom line is that the
thicker the wedge the better it will grip the tab.
3. I am assuming you noticed the top part of the wedge has an "overlock"
on it to stop it sliding when clamped.
4. I agree it is difficult to stop the squashing of the trailing edge
and my trim tab trailing edge will have a "unique owner's mark" there to
remind me that I was a little to enthusiastic with the clamp. I can live
with that, but it can be avoided with care.
5. Another interesting tip on the bending is to bend the bottom tab
first. This will create the "89 degree" , 91 degree called for on the
plans!
Not really, however with this method the top tab will overlap the bottom
tab meaning its bend angle will be slightly less than the bottom tab,
hence the 89 / 91 call. This is important because with the top tab
overlapping the bottom tab you are unlikely to get any run off or
moisture going into the tab.
6. Lastly the way the tabs are bent is important. You need the right
size block of wood to get in there and apply a uniform bend across the
tab. I started the entire bend gently till it got to about 35 degrees or
so and then was more forceful to complete the bend down to 90 degrees.
Hope this helps
Dennis
71041
Tail
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Allen Fulmer
Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim tab bend problems
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
Feeling rather incompetent after scrapping my second attempt to bend the
tabs on the elevator trim tab. Have read/reread the instructions,
studied
the photos, read several posts on the subject but still messed it up a
second time! Have ordered 2 more trim tab skins from Van's but sure do
need
to figure out how I am going to do this differently the next time!
Right
now, I don't have a clue!
I have made the wood block wedges as depicted in the pictures referenced
in
the instructions. Used Scotch brand "Removable Double Sided Tape" on
the
wedge, the clamping block, and the bench, and can just not seem to keep
the
assembly from moving as I tap the tab with a block of wood. The tab
starts
to bend okay but as I have to increase the angle of the wood block that
is
bending the tab, the whole thing starts to move including the wedge
inside.
Thus the bend is just a mess!! I have clamped the setup so tightly that
I
am "squashing" the trailing edge!
I seem to be one of only a few who have had this problem?? I found one
builder in the archives that just cut the tabs off and fabricated a
little
rib to take the place of the tab. I guess this would work too but I sure
would like to learn to do it like the factory and apparently most others
are
able to do! I have not even attempted the tabs on the elevator, as I
wanted
to make sure I had the technique down pat before taking a chance on
screwing
that up!
Oh, and I love the detail on the plans: One set of tabs is supposed to
be
bent 89 degrees and the other 91 degrees! Yeah, right!
Feeling stupid in Alabama,
Allen Fulmer
808AF applied for
==
==
==
==
Message 5
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| Subject: | Elevator trim tab bend problems |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Allen,
Bend it 3/4 of the way with the hand seamers, then finish it off with the flush
set. The bend portion is exactly the same width as the nice Cleveland-style hand
seamers, so it works out really well. See attached link:
http://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/elev3.htm
Scott
7A Wings
--- On Mon 02/16, Allen Fulmer < afulmer@charter.net > wrote:
From: Allen Fulmer [mailto: afulmer@charter.net]
Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim tab bend problems
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
Feeling rather incompetent after scrapping my second attempt to bend the
tabs on the elevator trim tab. Have read/reread the instructions, studied
the photos, read several posts on the subject but still messed it up a
second time! Have ordered 2 more trim tab skins from Van's but sure do need
to figure out how I am going to do this differently the next time! Right
now, I don't have a clue!
I have made the wood block wedges as depicted in the pictures referenced in
the instructions. Used Scotch brand "Removable Double Sided Tape" on the
wedge, the clamping block, and the bench, and can just not seem to keep the
assembly from moving as I tap the tab with a block of wood. The tab starts
to bend okay but as I have to increase the angle of the wood block that is
bending the tab, the whole thing starts to move including the wedge inside.
Thus the bend is just a m
ess!! I have clamped the setup so tightly that I
am "squashing" the trailing edge!
I seem to be one of only a few who have had this problem?? I found one
builder in the archives that just cut the tabs off and fabricated a little
rib to take the place of the tab. I guess this would work too but I sure
would like to learn to do it like the factory and apparently most others are
able to do! I have not even attempted the tabs on the elevator, as I wanted
to make sure I had the technique down pat before taking a chance on screwing
that up!
Oh, and I love the detail on the plans: One set of tabs is supposed to be
bent 89 degrees and the other 91 degrees! Yeah, right!
Feeling stupid in Alabama,
Allen Fulmer
808AF applied for
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim tab bend problems |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
I wanted to have bent ends on my trim tab just to have something to be proud
of!
I was able to get a really good job without using any special tools. The
trick for me was to rip a piece of oak to fit inside the tab. To begin with,
make the piece about 6 inches longer than the tab and put it in a vise to use
like an anvil. You can leave that end square (not wedge shaped) to fit the vise
better. File the edges of the this piece to about a 1/16 inch radius where
you will bend the ends over. Cut a good strong "V" out of another piece of oak
and clamp it as shown in Van's drawing to keep the bend from making too big of
a radius, and to protect the top and bottoms from bending. Start the bends
with your seaming pliers. Then use another block of wood and a hammer to bend
the ends up to the piece inside, bending the bottoms first so it will shed
water. This way you're hammering against the wood inside rather than the
aluminum skin. This works for one end. When the first end is done, cut the end
of
the oak piece that was in the vise off so that it now just fits inside the
length of the trim tab. Radius the end just like the other end and place it
inside the trim tab. Now clamp the "V" over the unbent end and place the first
end
down against the bench and hammer over the new end the same as before. This
time the bench supports the hammer blows through the wood inside the trim tab.
You should use some tape to keep from marring the aluminum where necessary.
Its not as hard as it sounds. It takes a little time, but I'm sure you know
by now that sometimes you have to slow down and fuss with some things for a
while to get a good job.
Dan Hopper RV-7A N766DH almost done.
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