Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:10 PM - dimpling tip rib in vertical stab (Jeff Cours)
2. 12:29 PM - Re: dimpling tip rib in vertical stab (cary rhodes)
3. 01:40 PM - Re: dimpling tip rib in vertical stab (Norman Younie)
4. 07:51 PM - Trim Tab deflection (Thomas Grant)
5. 07:52 PM - Re: dimpling tip rib in vertical stab (Adam Boggs)
6. 08:12 PM - Re: dimpling tip rib in vertical stab ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | dimpling tip rib in vertical stab |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
I was dimpling the ribs for a 7A's vertical stabilizer last night and
ran into a problem with the two holes in the top rib nearest the leading
edge: it's just too narrow for my squeezer. (In fact, it's a little too
narrow for the female dimple die with it's long-ish shaft.)
My next thought was to try countersinking. I tried it on some scrap
aluminum that was about the same thickness as the rib stock but wound up
enlarging the hole. Since the rib flange is convex in that area, which
might make it tough to adjust the countersink properly in the first
place, I'm not sure I really want to try countersinking there till I've
gotten a bit better with that tool.
Which brings me back to dimpling. Has anyone else has run into this
problem? Will the Avery vice-grip dimpler will get into that space? My
other idea is to try to make a close quarters dimpler by modifying a
C-clamp.
Thanks in advance!
Jeff C.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: dimpling tip rib in vertical stab |
--> RV7-List message posted by: cary rhodes <rhodeseng@yahoo.com>
jeff
the pop-rivet dimple set is handy in this situation.
Even then you can't use the finishing nail as the stem
on the dimpler.
But you can just lace the two dimpling dies onto a
shaft or nail and use a pair of visegrips to squeeze
the two together.
This gets the dimpling squared away. The rivet
setting is also an exercise.
Snag a handful of 3/32 blind rivets and use them.
You are going to fiberglass the tips on anyway. The
filler will hide. Only YOU will know for sure.
imho
cary rhodes
--- Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org> wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: Jeff Cours
> <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
> I was dimpling the ribs for a 7A's vertical
> stabilizer last night and
> ran into a problem with the two holes in the top rib
> nearest the leading
> edge: it's just too narrow for my squeezer. (In
> fact, it's a little too
> narrow for the female dimple die with it's long-ish
> shaft.)
>
> My next thought was to try countersinking. I tried
> it on some scrap
> aluminum that was about the same thickness as the
> rib stock but wound up
> enlarging the hole. Since the rib flange is convex
> in that area, which
> might make it tough to adjust the countersink
> properly in the first
> place, I'm not sure I really want to try
> countersinking there till I've
> gotten a bit better with that tool.
>
> Which brings me back to dimpling. Has anyone else
> has run into this
> problem? Will the Avery vice-grip dimpler will get
> into that space? My
> other idea is to try to make a close quarters
> dimpler by modifying a
> C-clamp.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Jeff C.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
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>
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>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: dimpling tip rib in vertical stab |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Norman Younie" <rv6capt@pacificcoast.net>
Take a piece of 1/4 plate steel. Drill a 3/32 hole near one of the corners.
Countersink the hole. Now place this into the nose of the rib, place a 3/32
rivet into the rib and plate. Hold on to the plate and hit the rivet a good
hit with a hammer. You will now have a dimple in the rib.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Cours" <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Subject: RV7-List: dimpling tip rib in vertical stab
> --> RV7-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
> I was dimpling the ribs for a 7A's vertical stabilizer last night and
> ran into a problem with the two holes in the top rib nearest the leading
> edge: it's just too narrow for my squeezer. (In fact, it's a little too
> narrow for the female dimple die with it's long-ish shaft.)
>
> My next thought was to try countersinking. I tried it on some scrap
> aluminum that was about the same thickness as the rib stock but wound up
> enlarging the hole. Since the rib flange is convex in that area, which
> might make it tough to adjust the countersink properly in the first
> place, I'm not sure I really want to try countersinking there till I've
> gotten a bit better with that tool.
>
> Which brings me back to dimpling. Has anyone else has run into this
> problem? Will the Avery vice-grip dimpler will get into that space? My
> other idea is to try to make a close quarters dimpler by modifying a
> C-clamp.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Jeff C.
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Trim Tab deflection |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Thomas Grant" <thomasgrant@comcast.net>
Does anyone have any idea of how much travel both up and down the trim tab
is supposed to move? I searched the archives and found some old messages
that indicate you should have somewhere in the neighborhood of 35=BA
deflection? I opted for the electric trim and get approximately 36mm travel
on the push-rod, front to back. I can=92t even get close to 35 =BA . Have you
guys just set the arm length to mid-stoke and adjust the trim tab at level,
in-trail? I have heard that more authority for up trim is better.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: dimpling tip rib in vertical stab |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Adam Boggs" <boggs@aircrafter.org>
Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org> wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
> I was dimpling the ribs for a 7A's vertical stabilizer last night and
> ran into a problem with the two holes in the top rib nearest the leading
> edge: it's just too narrow for my squeezer. (In fact, it's a little too
> narrow for the female dimple die with it's long-ish shaft.)
>
> Which brings me back to dimpling. Has anyone else has run into this
> problem? Will the Avery vice-grip dimpler will get into that space? My
> other idea is to try to make a close quarters dimpler by modifying a
> C-clamp.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Jeff C.
>
I'm pretty sure I was able to dimple this with a vice grip dimpler
I got with my avery toolkit. The dies welded to the vice grips are
much flatter than normal dies, and if I recall, will fit in there ok.
I got them dimpled, but now have no idea how to rivet them without using
blind rivets. If you think getting dimple dies in there is tough, try a
bucking bar! Like many things, I put it off until later. :)
-Adam
rv7a wings
Message 6
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| Subject: | dimpling tip rib in vertical stab |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Jeff,
I had a little bit unorthodox method that I picked up from another builder. See
attached:
http://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/rudder2.htm
Scott
7A Wings
--- On Fri 02/27, Jeff Cours < rv-j@moriarti.org > wrote:
From: Jeff Cours [mailto: rv-j@moriarti.org]
Subject: RV7-List: dimpling tip rib in vertical stab
--> RV7-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
I was dimpling the ribs for a 7A's vertical stabilizer last night and
ran into a problem with the two holes in the top rib nearest the leading
edge: it's just too narrow for my squeezer. (In fact, it's a little too
narrow for the female dimple die with it's long-ish shaft.)
My next thought was to try countersinking. I tried it on some scrap
aluminum that was about the same thickness as the rib stock but wound up
enlarging the hole. Since the rib flange is convex in that area, which
might make it tough to adjust the countersink properly in the first
place, I'm not sure I really want to try countersinking there till I've
gotten a bit better with that tool.
Which brings me back to dimpling. Has anyone else has run into this
problem? Will the Avery vice-grip dimpler will get into that space? My
other idea is to try to make a close quarters dimpler by modifyi
ng a
C-clamp.
Thanks in advance!
Jeff C.
igest/rv7-list
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