Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:49 AM - Re: Tire Change (cary rhodes)
2. 04:49 AM - Re: Left hand vs right hand (George Wiley)
3. 01:19 PM - RV7 primer primer (Bellwa77@AOL.com)
4. 02:00 PM - Re: RV7 primer primer (Richard Tasker)
5. 02:05 PM - Re: RV7 primer primer (Bob Smith)
6. 02:15 PM - Re: RV7 primer primer (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
7. 08:37 PM - Re: RV7 primer primer (Brian Meyette)
8. 09:42 PM - Re: RV7 primer primer (Tim Coldenhoff)
9. 09:58 PM - Re: RV7 primer primer (Richard E. Tasker)
10. 10:34 PM - Re: RV7 primer primer (Brian Meyette)
Message 1
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--> RV7-List message posted by: cary rhodes <rhodeseng@yahoo.com>
john
torque is probably not going to be an issue.
The axle is drilled with the nut to accept a cotter
pin.
You will have to hunt the hole to line up with the
matching hole in the cap nut.
certified planes ususlly have multiple locations to
place the cotter pin, ie castle nut or threaded ring,
but the rv is custom drilled only in one position.
keep the left and right nut separate so they go back
on the same axle.
cary rhodes
--- John Brunke <jwbrunk@attglobal.net> wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "John Brunke"
> <jwbrunk@attglobal.net>
>
> I'm doing my first tire change on an RV-6 that I
> bought last year. (starting -7 tail kit this
> winter). I have one of Vans axle jacks that you
> slide the tire onto to remove it.
>
> Since the aircraft has wheel pants the hub nut is
> solid so I had to remove that before I could install
> the jack.
>
> My question: Can you intall the wheel, let the jack
> down and still get the correct tork on the hub nut
> while the wheel is resting on the ground? Thanks in
> advance.
>
> John Brunke
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV7-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 2
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| Subject: | Left hand vs right hand |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "George Wiley" <geowiley@ussonet.net>
Please remove me from the RV7 mailing list.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Kathleen@rv7.us
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
--> RV7-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
Frank,
I have given this a lot of thought and don't think there is a right (:-)
correct) answer. I like the left-on-the-stick and right hand for
throttle
work and radios arrangement. My husband likes to fly from the right
seat
most of the time. When he flies solo, he uses the right seat except in
the
Mooney which has no brakes on the right. In our situation, the normal
configuration works well.
Mostly, I believe that whatever you do, you should allow for flight from
either seat. 1) You never know what your future flight circumstance
will be
and, 2) You may want to sell your plane some day.
I don't find any difference in flying left seat or right, but I like the
left seat with left hand on a stick or yoke, so that's going to be my
primary flight position. You really have to sit in an airplane and
think
about what works for you. It's your airplane, YOU have to be
comfortable.
No one can tell you which is best for you....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Subject: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
Hi all,
I have about 450 hours TT and most of that has been done in my current
zenair zodiac with a center stick. Hence it has two interconnected
throttles, on the left for me and on the right for my PX.
I had rather nasty incident (crash) in a C152 while trying to land from
the right seat with about 70 hours of experience right after getting my
ticket.....If your saying dumba*s in your head right now, believe me you
wouldn't be the first.
Most of the crash was caused by the fact I changed hands.
So of course, the RV7a is throttle in RH and stick in left...i.e
opposite to what I fly now.....hmm... The dumba*s concept is coming into
view again.
So I wondered what you all thought of maybe going for the throttle in
the left and RH on the stick. I note that grand website master Dan
Checkoway did it but the quadrant is a bit on the ugly side for me. With
three levers though I'm not sure what else to do.
The other issue is that I like to at least give my Wife a fighting
chance to walk away from the wreckage should any of my vital bodily
functions decide to fail...Apparently we only have on heart....What a
crappy design that is....:)
So that would mean at least a dual interconnected throttle, not easy
unless you have a solid rod rather than cable throttles.
Any thoughts?
Frank
P.s, Dan my lunchtime reading has taken a downturn so could you please
update your website?....:)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Kathleen@rv7.us
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
--> RV7-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
My website and a few other notes are all I do for a builder's log. I
track time in the workshop as time on the project. Feeling that there
is no reasonable way to track it to the minute, I round to half hour
increments. Now, if I could just find more time....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Neal E
Capt AU/PC
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
--> RV7-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC
<Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
I use KitLog to manage the written record and relevant photos of my
progress (and mistakes). I don't particularly like it, but I'm not
smart enough to
make it better. And it's paid for.
For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to add a little novelty.
In the months leading up to my first sub-kit order, I looked around,
called tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed through catalogues and
web sites looking for an inexpensive unit. One of the boat shops that I
called had a 110v unit that was intended for a generator - $10. I
mounted it and a switch in a 4" galvanized electrical box.
Neal George
RV-7 N8ZG, wings
>I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
>what you are using for a builders log.
==
==
==
==
==
==
==
==
Message 3
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| Subject: | RV7 primer primer |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Bellwa77@aol.com
Hello everyone,
I just ordered the tail kit, all the Avery tools, air compressor, a bunch of
stuff from harbour freight and signed up for the RV Assembly Sport Air
workshop. I have been overseas in the Middle East for the past 12 years following
this email list and watching everyones progress on the web, especially Dan
Chekoway's fantastic and detailed site. I pretty much went to his tools section
and
oordered everything he had described there. The last decision to make before
beginning is primer.
At the risk of irritating eveyone with my first email, I am going to ask a
primer question. Before everybody flames me, I will tell you that I have done an
extensive search of the matronics list and read as much as I could find about
priming all over the web. Doing that actually confused me more. What I would
like is to gather is as much opinion as possible on AFS waterborne
primer/sealer. There was very little information in the list and almost none on
the web
with the exception of the AFS website itself and Andy Karmy's RV9 website and
an article he wrote for EAA. So flame me if you must but opinions would be
appreciated.
Andy Bell
RV7 or 7A
bellwa77@aol.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 primer primer |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
I have used the AFS primer on my RV9A (not flying yet). It goes on
quite nicely and bonds tenaciously to the aluminum. I frequently paint
the parts first and then dimple - the paint takes the dimpling without a
whimper. I can't vouch for its long term performance - you will have to
look at their website for that information, although the parts I painted
almost two years ago look just like they did when first painted. The
really nice thing about it is that it is water based so the cleanup is
easy and there is no bad smell or dangerous fumes.
Dick Tasker
Bellwa77@AOL.com wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: Bellwa77@aol.com
>
>Hello everyone,
>
>I just ordered the tail kit, all the Avery tools, air compressor, a bunch of
>stuff from harbour freight and signed up for the RV Assembly Sport Air
>workshop. I have been overseas in the Middle East for the past 12 years following
>this email list and watching everyones progress on the web, especially Dan
>Chekoway's fantastic and detailed site. I pretty much went to his tools section
and
>oordered everything he had described there. The last decision to make before
>beginning is primer.
>
>At the risk of irritating eveyone with my first email, I am going to ask a
>primer question. Before everybody flames me, I will tell you that I have done
an
>extensive search of the matronics list and read as much as I could find about
>priming all over the web. Doing that actually confused me more. What I would
>like is to gather is as much opinion as possible on AFS waterborne
>primer/sealer. There was very little information in the list and almost none on
the web
>with the exception of the AFS website itself and Andy Karmy's RV9 website and
>an article he wrote for EAA. So flame me if you must but opinions would be
>appreciated.
>
>Andy Bell
>RV7 or 7A
>bellwa77@aol.com
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | RV7 primer primer |
15:05:15,
Serialize by Router on slcnot1/SCT(Release 6.0.4|June 01, 2004) at 10/13/2004
15:05:17,
Serialize complete at 10/13/2004 15:05:17,
Itemize by SMTP Server on sctmnot9/SCT(Release 6.0.4|June 01, 2004) at
10/13/2004
17:05:17,
Serialize by Router on sctmnot9/SCT(Release 6.0.4|June 01, 2004) at 10/13/2004
17:05:17,
Serialize complete at 10/13/2004 17:05:17
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Bob Smith" <rvator@lindonnet.com>
I'm using AFS primer on my empennage kit and have been quite happy with it.
I don't think it is quite as tough as 2-part epoxy, but it is wonderful to
use. Water clean-up and no noxious fumes. It sprays quite well - I've been
using a Harbor Freight HPLV touch-up gun, and use it straight out of the
jar. No complaints.
Bob Smith
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Bellwa77@AOL.com
Subject: RV7-List: RV7 primer primer
--> RV7-List message posted by: Bellwa77@aol.com
Hello everyone,
I just ordered the tail kit, all the Avery tools, air compressor, a bunch of
stuff from harbour freight and signed up for the RV Assembly Sport Air
workshop. I have been overseas in the Middle East for the past 12 years
following
this email list and watching everyones progress on the web, especially Dan
Chekoway's fantastic and detailed site. I pretty much went to his tools
section and
oordered everything he had described there. The last decision to make before
beginning is primer.
At the risk of irritating eveyone with my first email, I am going to ask a
primer question. Before everybody flames me, I will tell you that I have
done an
extensive search of the matronics list and read as much as I could find
about
priming all over the web. Doing that actually confused me more. What I would
like is to gather is as much opinion as possible on AFS waterborne
primer/sealer. There was very little information in the list and almost none
on the web
with the exception of the AFS website itself and Andy Karmy's RV9 website
and
an article he wrote for EAA. So flame me if you must but opinions would be
appreciated.
Andy Bell
RV7 or 7A
bellwa77@aol.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | RV7 primer primer |
--> RV7-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Welcome Andy
My tail has an assortment of SW-988 (expensive garbage), Rustoleum (what was
I thinking) and VeriPrime (good stuff, but needs a topcoat).
Were I to start over, I'd use AFS to prime the contact points where
dissimilar metals meet and alodine the extruded parts. Leave the rest of it
as-is. The other primers are all great as an integral part of their
respective finishing systems, but according to all the literature and sales
reps, offer no moisture barrier - they are intended to be top-coated.
Without a top-coat they are porous and would actually attract and wick
moisture and the stuff dissolved in it.
I used screws and nutplates to mount my fiberglass tips. I still don't like
the idea of using pop rivets. After the plane is painted I will treat it
with Corrosion-X. Can't do that with the tips on.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG
Wings - and short on clecos
Message 7
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| Subject: | RV7 primer primer |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic@starband.net>
What exactly is the AFS the last 3 messages referred to?
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of George Neal E Capt
AU/PC
Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7 primer primer
--> RV7-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC
<Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Welcome Andy
My tail has an assortment of SW-988 (expensive garbage), Rustoleum (what was
I thinking) and VeriPrime (good stuff, but needs a topcoat).
Were I to start over, I'd use AFS to prime the contact points where
dissimilar metals meet and alodine the extruded parts. Leave the rest of it
as-is. The other primers are all great as an integral part of their
respective finishing systems, but according to all the literature and sales
reps, offer no moisture barrier - they are intended to be top-coated.
Without a top-coat they are porous and would actually attract and wick
moisture and the stuff dissolved in it.
I used screws and nutplates to mount my fiberglass tips. I still don't like
the idea of using pop rivets. After the plane is painted I will treat it
with Corrosion-X. Can't do that with the tips on.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG
Wings - and short on clecos
---
---
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 primer primer |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000@deru.com>
Brian Meyette wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Brian Meyette"
>
> What exactly is the AFS the last 3 messages referred to?
Aircraft Finishing Systems:
http://www.aircraftfinishing.com
They manufacture and sell water based polyurethane
paints.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
#90338 - Finishing!
http://rv9a.deru.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 primer primer |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/
Dick Tasker
Brian Meyette wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic@starband.net>
>
>What exactly is the AFS the last 3 messages referred to?
>brian
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of George Neal E Capt
>AU/PC
>To: rv7-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7 primer primer
>
>--> RV7-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC
><Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
>
>Welcome Andy
>
>My tail has an assortment of SW-988 (expensive garbage), Rustoleum (what was
>I thinking) and VeriPrime (good stuff, but needs a topcoat).
>
>Were I to start over, I'd use AFS to prime the contact points where
>dissimilar metals meet and alodine the extruded parts. Leave the rest of it
>as-is. The other primers are all great as an integral part of their
>respective finishing systems, but according to all the literature and sales
>reps, offer no moisture barrier - they are intended to be top-coated.
>Without a top-coat they are porous and would actually attract and wick
>moisture and the stuff dissolved in it.
>
>I used screws and nutplates to mount my fiberglass tips. I still don't like
>the idea of using pop rivets. After the plane is painted I will treat it
>with Corrosion-X. Can't do that with the tips on.
>
>Neal
>RV-7 N8ZG
>Wings - and short on clecos
>
>
>---
>
>---
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV7 primer primer |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic@starband.net>
Thanks, Dick! I believe you were working on an alternative electrical
system for the Eggenfellner engines. How is that coming along?
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard E. Tasker
Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7 primer primer
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/
Dick Tasker
Brian Meyette wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic@starband.net>
>
>What exactly is the AFS the last 3 messages referred to?
>brian
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of George Neal E Capt
>AU/PC
>To: rv7-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7 primer primer
>
>--> RV7-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC
><Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
>
>Welcome Andy
>
>My tail has an assortment of SW-988 (expensive garbage), Rustoleum (what
was
>I thinking) and VeriPrime (good stuff, but needs a topcoat).
>
>Were I to start over, I'd use AFS to prime the contact points where
>dissimilar metals meet and alodine the extruded parts. Leave the rest of
it
>as-is. The other primers are all great as an integral part of their
>respective finishing systems, but according to all the literature and sales
>reps, offer no moisture barrier - they are intended to be top-coated.
>Without a top-coat they are porous and would actually attract and wick
>moisture and the stuff dissolved in it.
>
>I used screws and nutplates to mount my fiberglass tips. I still don't
like
>the idea of using pop rivets. After the plane is painted I will treat it
>with Corrosion-X. Can't do that with the tips on.
>
>Neal
>RV-7 N8ZG
>Wings - and short on clecos
>
>
>---
>
>---
>
>
---
---
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