Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:02 AM - Re: Squeezing out bad rivets (Jim Percy)
2. 07:24 AM - Re: Squeezing out bad rivets (Dwight Frye)
3. 10:12 AM - Re: Squeezing out bad rivets (Sargentclt@cs.com)
4. 10:33 AM - Re: Squeezing out bad rivets (Olivier Le Carbonnier)
5. 08:24 PM - Pitot tubing question (Merems)
6. 08:45 PM - Re: Pitot tubing question (DonVS)
7. 09:37 PM - Re: Pitot tubing question (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Squeezing out bad rivets |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Jim Percy" <jimpercy@mindspring.com>
I may be stating the obvious here, but be sure to hold the squeezer handle that
is in line with the rivet shank stationary and move the other handle toward it-
if you move both handles toward each other the shop head will almost certainly
bend over. I don't own a pneumatic squeezer. The 1/8" rivets take a little
oomph but are certainly do-able by hand. Good luck!
Jim
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Squeezing out bad rivets |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
On Tue Oct 26 00:06:51 2004, Francis, David CMDR wrote :
>[ ... snip ... ]
>My first observation is that unless you are a weight lifter or gorilla hand
>squeezing AD4 rivets is very difficult. I hand squeeze AD3 only, AD4 are
>just beyond me and I either rivet them or use a pneumatic squeezer. So my
>advice is avoid the problem altogether and use a different tool, preferably
>powered.
I found this to be true, as well. I was using a standard Avery manual
squeezer, and while I _could_ set AD4 rivets, it took a LOT of grunt.
I tried out the "Main Squeeze" from Cleveland at Oshkosh one year, and
almost bought one on the spot. The thing that stopped me was that it is
a slightly pricy tool, and I already *had* a manual squeezer.
After I got home, and spent some time squeezing more AD4's, I broke down
and ordered the "Main Squeeze" and ended up wishing I had gotten one
much earlier. Someone good a good deal on my old Avery squeezer, and I
got the new squeezer.
I has some internal cams which give a lot more mechanical advantage over
the traditional manual squeezer geometry ... and I can set AD4s now with
very little effort. My then-11-year-old daughter could set AD3s using the
new squeezer! :) Mind you, I also have a pneumatic squeezer for those
cases where using it makes more sense ... but I often just reach for the
manual squeezer as it is lighter and often actually easier to use.
The one comment I'll make about the "Main Squeeze" is that it is very light
weight construction. I have had NO problem with it, but have heard that if
you don't use it right ... you can break it. The light weight has advantages
though, as it isn't such a heavy handful when setting a long row of rivets
and isn't nearly as tiring as my boat-anchor-weight pneumatic.
I have no connection with Cleveland, other than as a satisfied customer. In
fact, I'll take a moment to say that I have had nothing *but* absolutely
fantastic service from both Cleveland and Avery. I'd purchase from either
of them (and do, it seems, quite regularly) without hesitation.
-- Dwight
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Squeezing out bad rivets |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Sargentclt@cs.com
Unless I am missing something in your writing you should be using a cupped
set of rivet sets, I ordered 2 of them from the yardstore.com. One side of the
rivet set is flat (obvious) the other for setting 470 or universal rivets is
convex. The rivet when held to the set should sit inside with only a small
amount of the rivet head showing. Second I put the cupped set in the top of the
squeezer and the flat set in the movable or bottom of the tool. I then pull
the rivet down to ensure a tight contact with the metal and squeeze. You
could alternate the sets in the tool as well. When finished the domed head should
look as good as a new one if you are applying pressure to hold the squeezer
tight to the head of the rivet.
I hope this helps.
T.S. 7A finishing
Message 4
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| Subject: | Squeezing out bad rivets |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Olivier Le Carbonnier" <olcdlm@laposte.net>
and did you prefer a bad rivet (not a very ugly rivet) than removing a bad
rivet and putting a NAS (oops)rivet ?
i prefer the bad rivet.
what did you think about ?
Olivier LC
France
ICQ#: 82067330
sanglier@laposte.net
http://sangliervolant.chez.tiscali.fr Van's RV-8 n81939 wings
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]De la part de Dwight Frye
Envoy : mardi 26 octobre 2004 16:28
: rv7-list@matronics.com
Objet : Re: RV7-List: Squeezing out bad rivets
--> RV7-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
On Tue Oct 26 00:06:51 2004, Francis, David CMDR wrote :
>[ ... snip ... ]
>My first observation is that unless you are a weight lifter or gorilla hand
>squeezing AD4 rivets is very difficult. I hand squeeze AD3 only, AD4 are
>just beyond me and I either rivet them or use a pneumatic squeezer. So my
>advice is avoid the problem altogether and use a different tool, preferably
>powered.
I found this to be true, as well. I was using a standard Avery manual
squeezer, and while I _could_ set AD4 rivets, it took a LOT of grunt.
I tried out the "Main Squeeze" from Cleveland at Oshkosh one year, and
almost bought one on the spot. The thing that stopped me was that it is
a slightly pricy tool, and I already *had* a manual squeezer.
After I got home, and spent some time squeezing more AD4's, I broke down
and ordered the "Main Squeeze" and ended up wishing I had gotten one
much earlier. Someone good a good deal on my old Avery squeezer, and I
got the new squeezer.
I has some internal cams which give a lot more mechanical advantage over
the traditional manual squeezer geometry ... and I can set AD4s now with
very little effort. My then-11-year-old daughter could set AD3s using the
new squeezer! :) Mind you, I also have a pneumatic squeezer for those
cases where using it makes more sense ... but I often just reach for the
manual squeezer as it is lighter and often actually easier to use.
The one comment I'll make about the "Main Squeeze" is that it is very light
weight construction. I have had NO problem with it, but have heard that if
you don't use it right ... you can break it. The light weight has advantages
though, as it isn't such a heavy handful when setting a long row of rivets
and isn't nearly as tiring as my boat-anchor-weight pneumatic.
I have no connection with Cleveland, other than as a satisfied customer. In
fact, I'll take a moment to say that I have had nothing *but* absolutely
fantastic service from both Cleveland and Avery. I'd purchase from either
of them (and do, it seems, quite regularly) without hesitation.
-- Dwight
do not archive
Message 5
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<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>, <rv7-list@matronics.com>,
<RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>, <rv9-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Pitot tubing question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
I am completing my left wing (RV-7) and getting ready to install the pitot tubing.
The plans are a bit unclear in this area. I know the tubing passes through
the snap bushing to the wing root, however how have most of you terminated
the tubing. Did you leave a short length (at the root), flare it and bend it
90 degrees. Did you install a 90 degree bulkhead fitting in the root rib? If
so what was your procedure for flaring the end?
Any help would be appreciated.
Paul
Message 6
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| Subject: | Pitot tubing question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
Paul
I used nylo seal tubing and no fittings from about a foot from the pitot to
the inside of the cabin. It is basically the same method that Dan C used.
There are pictures on my web site. Don VS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Merems
rv7-list@matronics.com; RV-9A@yahoogroups.com; rv9-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV7-List: Pitot tubing question
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
I am completing my left wing (RV-7) and getting ready to install the pitot
tubing. The plans are a bit unclear in this area. I know the tubing passes
through the snap bushing to the wing root, however how have most of you
terminated the tubing. Did you leave a short length (at the root), flare it
and bend it 90 degrees. Did you install a 90 degree bulkhead fitting in the
root rib? If so what was your procedure for flaring the end?
Any help would be appreciated.
Paul
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tubing question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Paul,
Be sure to check the latest construction FAQ on Van's site about pitot
tubing routing. If I recall they recommend that the tubing come inboard of
the root rib below and aft of the largest (forward-most) lightening hole. I
wish I knew this up front -- it's where I ended up routing mine in the long
run.
The fuselage has stuff in the way that you can't really penetrate if you try
to run the pitot tubing along the spar web. You gotta go aft and low. I
recommend a similar location for wiring run/conduit. I put mine up and
forward and that's FAR from ideal.
Hope this helps...keep it in mind when you decide how you want the tubing to
exit the wing and enter the fuselage.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Wiring.pdf
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Pitot tubing question
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
>
> Paul
> I used nylo seal tubing and no fittings from about a foot from the pitot
to
> the inside of the cabin. It is basically the same method that Dan C used.
> There are pictures on my web site. Don VS
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Merems
> To: RV-8@yahoogroups.com; RV10 Group; RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com;
> rv7-list@matronics.com; RV-9A@yahoogroups.com; rv9-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV7-List: Pitot tubing question
>
>
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
>
> I am completing my left wing (RV-7) and getting ready to install the pitot
> tubing. The plans are a bit unclear in this area. I know the tubing
passes
> through the snap bushing to the wing root, however how have most of you
> terminated the tubing. Did you leave a short length (at the root), flare
it
> and bend it 90 degrees. Did you install a 90 degree bulkhead fitting in
the
> root rib? If so what was your procedure for flaring the end?
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Paul
>
>
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