Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:10 AM - Fuel tank leak blues (Bob Collins)
2. 08:41 AM - Re: Fuel tank leak blues (Robbie Attaway)
3. 08:44 AM - Re: Fuel tank leak blues (Robbie Attaway)
4. 10:19 AM - Re: Fuel tank leak blues (Norman Younie)
5. 07:05 PM - RV -7 with GRT EFIS and Dynon (Keith T Uhls)
6. 07:19 PM - SEC: UNCLASSIFIED Fuel tank leak blues (Francis, David CMDR)
7. 07:55 PM - Re: UNCLASSIFIED Fuel tank leak blues (Imken)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fuel tank leak blues |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@visi.com>
I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib. Then yesterday (Tuesday),
I built up enough nerve to test it out. Before I even got the manometer
pumped to 2.6 psi, I could feel the breeze. Adding the soapy bubbles, I
actually got the leak to blow a bubble about as big as a football. No
problem finding the leak; it was along the bottom baffle-to-skin seam in
the most inboard bay. Well, at least it was an area I could get to by
removing the access cover.
So I did. Man, proseal can really set up in two days. It was a rough trip
prying that sucker off. But eventually I did and it took two hours of
scraping and wiping with MEK to remove all the ProSeal from the rib and
access cover.
Then I filled a syringe with sealant and layed a huge glob inside along the
seam and just ont he other side of the rib.
Now, here's the deal. As I was taking off the access cover, I realized that
this would really be a risky job if the sealant were more than 3 days old,
to the point where it seemed perfectly possible to damage the rib. I
thought, 'man, I'm not prosealing this directly onto the rib again.
Now I know there's a zillion messages in the archive about other
possibilities and I've reviewed half-a-zillion of them. I think I want to
use the cork gasket when I put this back on because IF I didn't stop the
leak, I really don't want to repeat theprocess of getting that access cover
off again.
The question is on technique. Should I pro-seal both sides of the cork
gasket and then put the access cover back on? Should I just Proseal the
gasket to the rib? Should I just ProSeal the gasket to the cover? I'm just
trying to figure out the best way to seal this thing (there was NOOOOO way,
the cover was going to leak the way I had prosealed it before; but it also
seemed like there was no way that access cover was ever going to come off in
the future, which kinda takes away the point of having an access cover.
What say you?
Bob
St. Paul
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak blues |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Robbie Attaway" <robbie@attawayair.com>
Hi Bob, I always pro-seal both sides of the cork and install it being
careful not to over tighten the screws. I have not had a leak (2 RVs of my
own and several other I have helped with) yet. Remember, it may take a
couple weeks for the pro-seal to cure depending on the ambient temp so don't
put pressure on it too soon.
Good Luck, Robbie www.attawayair.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@visi.com>
Subject: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@visi.com>
>
> I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
> plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib. Then yesterday
> (Tuesday),
> I built up enough nerve to test it out. Before I even got the manometer
> pumped to 2.6 psi, I could feel the breeze. Adding the soapy bubbles, I
> actually got the leak to blow a bubble about as big as a football. No
> problem finding the leak; it was along the bottom baffle-to-skin seam in
> the most inboard bay. Well, at least it was an area I could get to by
> removing the access cover.
>
> So I did. Man, proseal can really set up in two days. It was a rough trip
> prying that sucker off. But eventually I did and it took two hours of
> scraping and wiping with MEK to remove all the ProSeal from the rib and
> access cover.
>
> Then I filled a syringe with sealant and layed a huge glob inside along
> the
> seam and just ont he other side of the rib.
>
> Now, here's the deal. As I was taking off the access cover, I realized
> that
> this would really be a risky job if the sealant were more than 3 days old,
> to the point where it seemed perfectly possible to damage the rib. I
> thought, 'man, I'm not prosealing this directly onto the rib again.
>
> Now I know there's a zillion messages in the archive about other
> possibilities and I've reviewed half-a-zillion of them. I think I want to
> use the cork gasket when I put this back on because IF I didn't stop the
> leak, I really don't want to repeat theprocess of getting that access
> cover
> off again.
>
> The question is on technique. Should I pro-seal both sides of the cork
> gasket and then put the access cover back on? Should I just Proseal the
> gasket to the rib? Should I just ProSeal the gasket to the cover? I'm just
> trying to figure out the best way to seal this thing (there was NOOOOO
> way,
> the cover was going to leak the way I had prosealed it before; but it also
> seemed like there was no way that access cover was ever going to come off
> in
> the future, which kinda takes away the point of having an access cover.
>
> What say you?
>
> Bob
> St. Paul
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak blues |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Robbie Attaway" <robbie@attawayair.com>
Bob, This is a web site that has info on pro-seal.
http://corporate.ppg.com/ppg/aerospace/default.htm
Robbie www.attawayair.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@visi.com>
Subject: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@visi.com>
>
> I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
> plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib. Then yesterday
> (Tuesday),
> I built up enough nerve to test it out. Before I even got the manometer
> pumped to 2.6 psi, I could feel the breeze. Adding the soapy bubbles, I
> actually got the leak to blow a bubble about as big as a football. No
> problem finding the leak; it was along the bottom baffle-to-skin seam in
> the most inboard bay. Well, at least it was an area I could get to by
> removing the access cover.
>
> So I did. Man, proseal can really set up in two days. It was a rough trip
> prying that sucker off. But eventually I did and it took two hours of
> scraping and wiping with MEK to remove all the ProSeal from the rib and
> access cover.
>
> Then I filled a syringe with sealant and layed a huge glob inside along
> the
> seam and just ont he other side of the rib.
>
> Now, here's the deal. As I was taking off the access cover, I realized
> that
> this would really be a risky job if the sealant were more than 3 days old,
> to the point where it seemed perfectly possible to damage the rib. I
> thought, 'man, I'm not prosealing this directly onto the rib again.
>
> Now I know there's a zillion messages in the archive about other
> possibilities and I've reviewed half-a-zillion of them. I think I want to
> use the cork gasket when I put this back on because IF I didn't stop the
> leak, I really don't want to repeat theprocess of getting that access
> cover
> off again.
>
> The question is on technique. Should I pro-seal both sides of the cork
> gasket and then put the access cover back on? Should I just Proseal the
> gasket to the rib? Should I just ProSeal the gasket to the cover? I'm just
> trying to figure out the best way to seal this thing (there was NOOOOO
> way,
> the cover was going to leak the way I had prosealed it before; but it also
> seemed like there was no way that access cover was ever going to come off
> in
> the future, which kinda takes away the point of having an access cover.
>
> What say you?
>
> Bob
> St. Paul
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak blues |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Norman Younie <rv6capt@pacificcoast.net>
Don't proseal the cork. You will never get it off. I have built 3 RV's
now and they don't leak just using the cork.
Bob Collins wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@visi.com>
>
>I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
>plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib. Then yesterday (Tuesday),
>I built up enough nerve to test it out. Before I even got the manometer
>pumped to 2.6 psi, I could feel the breeze. Adding the soapy bubbles, I
>actually got the leak to blow a bubble about as big as a football. No
>problem finding the leak; it was along the bottom baffle-to-skin seam in
>the most inboard bay. Well, at least it was an area I could get to by
>removing the access cover.
>
>So I did. Man, proseal can really set up in two days. It was a rough trip
>prying that sucker off. But eventually I did and it took two hours of
>scraping and wiping with MEK to remove all the ProSeal from the rib and
>access cover.
>
>Then I filled a syringe with sealant and layed a huge glob inside along the
>seam and just ont he other side of the rib.
>
>Now, here's the deal. As I was taking off the access cover, I realized that
>this would really be a risky job if the sealant were more than 3 days old,
>to the point where it seemed perfectly possible to damage the rib. I
>thought, 'man, I'm not prosealing this directly onto the rib again.
>
>Now I know there's a zillion messages in the archive about other
>possibilities and I've reviewed half-a-zillion of them. I think I want to
>use the cork gasket when I put this back on because IF I didn't stop the
>leak, I really don't want to repeat theprocess of getting that access cover
>off again.
>
>The question is on technique. Should I pro-seal both sides of the cork
>gasket and then put the access cover back on? Should I just Proseal the
>gasket to the rib? Should I just ProSeal the gasket to the cover? I'm just
>trying to figure out the best way to seal this thing (there was NOOOOO way,
>the cover was going to leak the way I had prosealed it before; but it also
>seemed like there was no way that access cover was ever going to come off in
>the future, which kinda takes away the point of having an access cover.
>
>What say you?
>
>Bob
>St. Paul
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | RV -7 with GRT EFIS and Dynon |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Keith T Uhls <keithuhls@juno.com>
Q:IIncidentallywhat do you use to drive the VOR and glideslope?
A: I purchased my GRT EFIS before they where selling them off the shelf.
So some things were not available at that time. For me I wanted to be
able to fly GPS approaches and in order to do that I had to have an OBS.
So I purchased the one from Garmin. I do not know if the one on the
EFIS would be legal and did not want to go through that battle in case I
lost. I do not have the interface yet but it is wired so I can drive the
OBS with the EFIS.
Q: Where did you get the switches for your panel?
A: A good question... I had a couple of guys here in Lockhart get their
switches from Gulf Coast Avionics. They paid $40 plus $10 for engraving.
I have 13 of these suckers.....and that is a lot of money. I looked for
Honeywell AML switches from Allied electronics and Newarkinone. I
purchased them from Newarkinone because they were the cheapest. However
I found out that they were low amperage (3amps). There are higher
amperages available from GCA (10 amps) At least that is what I was told
when I called them. One of my switches went bad and that made me
research the amperage. I ended up purchasing a few from them for my high
amperage items. Landing lights, strobes etc. We are putting them in
this week and I will let you know how that goes.
I had mine engraved by a guy in Las Vegas, Andy's Engraving and he
charged me $7.00 each. He did them in a matter of days and I was really
happy with them.
Q:I am not trying to nitpick anything but when flying the American
Flag on the tail of an aircraft the stars are into the wind.
A: Thanks for letting me know, especially before I got paint on it. I
will change it.
Jeff Bordelon took these pics and posted them to his web site. Here is
the link http://www.jeffsrv7a.com/KeithsRV7.htm
As you can see I have both the Grand Rapids and Dynon EFIS systems. I
really like both of them, they both have there place in the panel and
they keep getting better with each software update. If you have any
questions about either one let me know.
Keith Uhls
keithuhls@juno.com
RV-7 N7KU
now flying
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fuel tank leak blues |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Bob,
Just to add to the squillion tank gasket sealing options. If you do want to
add sealer to the cork gasket but dont like fighting with cured proseal,
look for Loctite No3, its billed as an aviation gasket sealant that does not
set. It looks and smells like a variation of proseal that sets but stays
tacky like fresh chewing gum.
As a minimum it will be good to seal the threads of the screws on the tank
access hatch, I will be able to undo the screws with out destroying the
heads in the proces.
Keep bubbling along, David Francis, Canberra, Australia, waiting for the
engine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Younie [mailto:rv6capt@pacificcoast.net]
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
--> RV7-List message posted by: Norman Younie <rv6capt@pacificcoast.net>
Don't proseal the cork. You will never get it off. I have built 3 RV's
now and they don't leak just using the cork.
Bob Collins wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@visi.com>
>
>I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
>plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Fuel tank leak blues |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Imken" <skikrazi@CenturyTel.net>
Bob,
I pro sealed everything that did not move and some things that did.....did
not use cork gaskets but did use #8 Allen head screws in lieu of Phillips
head screws-easier to tighten or remove. ......so far, no leaks. A friend
just replaced a Phillips head screw with an Allen head screw because of a
leak in his RV just over a year old (he did not Proseal the cork gaskets
when tanks were built).
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Francis, David CMDR
Subject: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Francis, David CMDR"
<David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Bob,
Just to add to the squillion tank gasket sealing options. If you do want to
add sealer to the cork gasket but dont like fighting with cured proseal,
look for Loctite No3, its billed as an aviation gasket sealant that does not
set. It looks and smells like a variation of proseal that sets but stays
tacky like fresh chewing gum.
As a minimum it will be good to seal the threads of the screws on the tank
access hatch, I will be able to undo the screws with out destroying the
heads in the proces.
Keep bubbling along, David Francis, Canberra, Australia, waiting for the
engine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Younie [mailto:rv6capt@pacificcoast.net]
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
--> RV7-List message posted by: Norman Younie <rv6capt@pacificcoast.net>
Don't proseal the cork. You will never get it off. I have built 3 RV's
now and they don't leak just using the cork.
Bob Collins wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@visi.com>
>
>I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
>plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib.
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