Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:19 AM - More Lister Comments - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser!!! (Matt Dralle)
2. 11:41 AM - Primer debate (wars) (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
3. 12:09 PM - Re: ProSeal curing? (Bob Collins)
4. 12:11 PM - Re: Re-application of Proseal over Proseal (Bob Collins)
5. 12:24 PM - SEC: UNCLASSIFIED Re: Primer debate (wars) (Francis, David CMDR)
6. 12:52 PM - Re: UNCLASSIFIED Re: Primer debate (wars) (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
7. 05:11 PM - Re: Primer debate (wars) (Charlie England)
8. 06:37 PM - removal from the list (GRUMAA1@AOL.com)
9. 06:42 PM - Re: removal from the list (Bob Collins)
10. 08:38 PM - steps on RV-7A (Bryan Hooks)
11. 10:11 PM - Re: steps on RV-7A (Paul Pflimlin)
Message 1
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| Subject: | More Lister Comments - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser!!! |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Well, its November 30th and that means two things... I'm 41 years old
today - your sympathy is appreciated; and its the last official day of this
year's List Fund Raiser!!! There is still plenty of time to make your
Contribution to assure your place on the List of Contributors. Also, there
are still lots of Contribution Gifts available including the very popular
List Archive CDROM, Aircraft Fuel Tester, 24 Years of the RVAtor, and the
very cool Kitlog Pro software!
Below is another awesome set of comments from listers regarding how
valuable the Lists are. Please read them over and make a Contribution to
show your support for the Lists as well!
The List Contribution web site can be found at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
------------ Even More of What Listers Are Saying... --------------
[The List] has been very helpful as I am building an RV7A.
Stan B.
Wonderful resource.
Ralph C.
I don't think I could be building my plane without the help I get from the
list.
Richard V.
Invaluable to my Kolb building.
Clay S.
Best source of light aircraft electrical information any where.
Dan O.
Great service.
Bjorn B.
The lists are certainly worth it!
Jim M.
The Lists have been and continue to be a valuable tool.
Jeff O.
Exceptional service.
Larry M.
[The List] has been very helpful, informative and entertaining.
Sterling B.
Very helpful resource.
Grant C.
I don't think I could build my 601XL without the list.
William G.
Great service to the aviation community.
John W.
I have saved a ton of money in the operation of my [aircraft].
Lee P.
Great contribution to builders everywhere!
Tom E.
[The List] is one of my nightly entertainments.
Ross S.
A great service and I hope you can keep it going!
Bob O.
My building support group.
Richard V.
Has made the operation of my aircraft much safer...
Lee P.
Now that I am close to completion of my [homebuilt], I look back
and wonder how I could ever have made it this far without [the Lists].
Jeff O.
I check the List twice daily at least.
Anthony W.
Thank you for taking care of us all with these most important Lists.
William M.
The List is very valuable to me...
Red H.
Great web site!!
Robert H.
Thanks for giving me another year of learning.
Larry M.
I don't think I'd have been able to get my project airborne without it!
Grant C.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Primer debate (wars) |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Yes I checked the archives and read a bunch of interesting opinions on
what kind of primer to use. All of the opinions (I read) had a similar
opinion though and went something like "OF course one HAS to prime the
unprotected 6061T6 'cus it has no alclad on it."...Oh really?
As reformed Zenair Zodiac builder (my 7 QB is on the boat) I must say
I'm not so sure about the assumption that non alclad alu will dissappear
before my very eyes...Reason being is that zenairs are made ENITERLY of
6061T6 with no alclad whatsover. In fact it is rare to find such an
aircraft with completly primed inner surfaces because the factory
recommend only zinc cromating the mating surfaces between the 6061
parts. Clearly this is because the movement between the parts might
remove the protective corrosion layer.
5 years ago I finished my Zod and have not seen as much as a hint of
corrosion on my annuals. The prototype has been flying snce 1974 and
apparently is in similar shape.
So what do you all think about that?
Having said that, as EVERYONE else primes everything (except the alclad)
I will do the same, besides there is not that much left on a QB so the 8
cans of NAPA 7220 SEP will hopefully be adequate.
Cheers and see you all when I have the innevitable problems...:)
Frank
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: ProSeal curing? |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Bob Collins <bcollins747_1999@yahoo.com>
I built my first tank in the dead of winter -- more or
less -- in the unheated garage. I worked in
temperatures of about 10 to anywhere near 30 or 40.
The tank sealant was stiff right from the start. But I
had no problems in curing. It cured...well... when it
cured...sometimes it took 5 days.
Then this summer I started building the tank in August
and it was 70 and 80 degrees. I was amazed how much
easier the sealant was to mix and apply. And of course
it cured fast. Then I ended up finishing the 2nd tank
last week...back in the 30s.
All in all...no big deal.
If you want it to cure faster....take a worklight,
stick it in the access hole or drape it over a rib
and into a bay and then put some plastic over it (I
just grab some paint drop cloths from Home Depot.
That'll keep the innards of the tank nice and warm
without costing you and arm and a leg to heat the
garage all night.
I use one of the little Mr. Heaters when I'm working
on the plane in the winter (like I did this morning).
Hey, after a half hour, your body adjusts to the
cooler temperatures although picking up a cold steel
bucking bar and rivet gun in those conditions quickly
teaches you to bring them inside at night.
I do the bottom skins of the wing by myself (leave the
wing in the jig, if you've got long arms, it's not
that big of a deal. But you can't wear any jacket when
doing it because you'll never get your hand inside the
wing to buck.
Bottom line? Don't fret about it.
Bob
St. Paul
--- Merems <merems@cox.net> wrote:
> I am sealing up my fuel tanks and wanted some
> information about curing time and temperature.
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Re-application of Proseal over Proseal |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Bob Collins <bcollins747_1999@yahoo.com>
--- Merems <merems@cox.net> wrote:
>
> I am in the process of sealing my tanks and am ready
> to install the rear baffle. The inboard and
> outboard ribs when install/sealed a few days ago.
> After examining some of the filleting on the inside
> of the inboard and outboard ribs, I may want to add
> some additional sealant to increase the fillet in a
> few locations. What preparation other then cleaning
> with MEK/Acetone is recommended?
That's about all I did. BEfore putting the baffle on I
checked some of the fillets for signs of any pinholes
etc and just dabbed a little more ProSeal in there. No
extra work was required.
By the way, I know you work in a ventilated shop, but
wear a respirator when you work with MEK. That stuff
will destroy your neurological system.
__________________________________
Message 5
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| Subject: | Primer debate (wars) |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Frank,
Well not EVERYONE primes. Look inside my RV7 and you will see a lovely gold
interior. Your RV7QB comes with a fetching silver interior. Alodine. No
overspray, no cleanup, no spray gun, no weight gain, just a chemically inert
conversion coating.
So the primer war is like most wars, unnecessary.
Glad to see you dont like nosewheels.
Regards, David Francis, Canberra, Australia.
-----Original Message-----
From: Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) [mailto:frank.hinde@hp.com]
Subject: RV7-List: Primer debate (wars)
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
Yes I checked the archives and read a bunch of interesting opinions on
what kind of primer to use. All of the opinions (I read) had a similar
opinion though and went something like "OF course one HAS to prime the
unprotected 6061T6 'cus it has no alclad on it."...Oh really?
As reformed Zenair Zodiac builder (my 7 QB is on the boat) I must say
I'm not so sure about the assumption that non alclad alu will dissappear
before my very eyes...Reason being is that zenairs are made ENITERLY of
6061T6 with no alclad whatsover. In fact it is rare to find such an
aircraft with completly primed inner surfaces because the factory
recommend only zinc cromating the mating surfaces between the 6061
parts. Clearly this is because the movement between the parts might
remove the protective corrosion layer.
5 years ago I finished my Zod and have not seen as much as a hint of
corrosion on my annuals. The prototype has been flying snce 1974 and
apparently is in similar shape.
So what do you all think about that?
Having said that, as EVERYONE else primes everything (except the alclad)
I will do the same, besides there is not that much left on a QB so the 8
cans of NAPA 7220 SEP will hopefully be adequate.
Cheers and see you all when I have the innevitable problems...:)
Frank
Message 6
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| Subject: | Primer debate (wars) |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
No I don't David but I'm way to chicken to learn to fly a TD now...I
have to swap hands to stick in the left and that's as much excitement as
I need..:)
Frank RV7 AAAAAA...QB
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Francis, David
CMDR
Subject: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED RE: RV7-List: Primer debate (wars)
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Francis, David CMDR"
--> <David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Frank,
Well not EVERYONE primes. Look inside my RV7 and you will see a lovely
gold interior. Your RV7QB comes with a fetching silver interior.
Alodine. No overspray, no cleanup, no spray gun, no weight gain, just a
chemically inert conversion coating.
So the primer war is like most wars, unnecessary.
Glad to see you dont like nosewheels.
Regards, David Francis, Canberra, Australia.
-----Original Message-----
From: Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) [mailto:frank.hinde@hp.com]
Subject: RV7-List: Primer debate (wars)
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
Yes I checked the archives and read a bunch of interesting opinions on
what kind of primer to use. All of the opinions (I read) had a similar
opinion though and went something like "OF course one HAS to prime the
unprotected 6061T6 'cus it has no alclad on it."...Oh really?
As reformed Zenair Zodiac builder (my 7 QB is on the boat) I must say
I'm not so sure about the assumption that non alclad alu will dissappear
before my very eyes...Reason being is that zenairs are made ENITERLY of
6061T6 with no alclad whatsover. In fact it is rare to find such an
aircraft with completly primed inner surfaces because the factory
recommend only zinc cromating the mating surfaces between the 6061
parts. Clearly this is because the movement between the parts might
remove the protective corrosion layer.
5 years ago I finished my Zod and have not seen as much as a hint of
corrosion on my annuals. The prototype has been flying snce 1974 and
apparently is in similar shape.
So what do you all think about that?
Having said that, as EVERYONE else primes everything (except the alclad)
I will do the same, besides there is not that much left on a QB so the 8
cans of NAPA 7220 SEP will hopefully be adequate.
Cheers and see you all when I have the innevitable problems...:)
Frank
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Primer debate (wars) |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
>Yes I checked the archives and read a bunch of interesting opinions on
>what kind of primer to use. All of the opinions (I read) had a similar
>opinion though and went something like "OF course one HAS to prime the
>unprotected 6061T6 'cus it has no alclad on it."...Oh really?
>
>As reformed Zenair Zodiac builder (my 7 QB is on the boat) I must say
>I'm not so sure about the assumption that non alclad alu will dissappear
>before my very eyes...Reason being is that zenairs are made ENITERLY of
>6061T6 with no alclad whatsover. In fact it is rare to find such an
>aircraft with completly primed inner surfaces because the factory
>recommend only zinc cromating the mating surfaces between the 6061
>parts. Clearly this is because the movement between the parts might
>remove the protective corrosion layer.
>
>5 years ago I finished my Zod and have not seen as much as a hint of
>corrosion on my annuals. The prototype has been flying snce 1974 and
>apparently is in similar shape.
>
>So what do you all think about that?
>
>Having said that, as EVERYONE else primes everything (except the alclad)
>I will do the same, besides there is not that much left on a QB so the 8
>cans of NAPA 7220 SEP will hopefully be adequate.
>
>Cheers and see you all when I have the innevitable problems...:)
>
>Frank
>
Interesting data point on the Zodiac. What do they weigh? I thought that
6061 was much weaker per pound than 2024 but not as corrosion prone
(hence the alclad on 2024). It would still be more corrosion prone than
the pure AL of the alclad coating on the skins, which is probably why
Van's recommends priming.
Charlie
Message 8
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| Subject: | removal from the list |
--> RV7-List message posted by: GRUMAA1@aol.com
Please remove me from the RV 7 list. Thank you
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: removal from the list |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Bob Collins <bcollins747_1999@yahoo.com>
--- GRUMAA1@AOL.com wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: GRUMAA1@aol.com
>
> Please remove me from the RV 7 list. Thank you
Check down here at the bottom. The link to accomplish
this is right there.
do not archive
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV7-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Message 10
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--> RV7-List message posted by: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks@comcast.net>
I am to the point on my 7A fuse that I need to install my steps. The
hole diameter in the fuse skin called out in the plans (I think 1 =BD
inches) is perfect for the tube that goes through it. But is not big
enough to clear the weld fillet at intersection of the tube and the
square piece that rivets to the skin. If I make the hole large enough
to clear the filament, I believe that I will end up with an exposed hole
underneath the tube because the bottom of the tube is flush with the
bottom of the square piece. Did anyone else have this problem? Can I
sand down the weld on the bottom part of the tube?
I can=92t find anyone=92s website that shows good pictures or give any
explanation about how they approached this.
Bryan Hooks
RV-7A, slow build
Knoxville, TN
bryanhooks@comcast.net
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: steps on RV-7A |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo@phonewave.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks@comcast.net>
Subject: RV7-List: steps on RV-7A
I'm at the same point on my slobuild 7-A and haven't found any plans for its
installation?
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks@comcast.net>
>
> I am to the point on my 7A fuse that I need to install my steps. The
> hole diameter in the fuse skin called out in the plans (I think 1 =BD
> inches) is perfect for the tube that goes through it. But is not big
> enough to clear the weld fillet at intersection of the tube and the
> square piece that rivets to the skin. If I make the hole large enough
> to clear the filament, I believe that I will end up with an exposed hole
> underneath the tube because the bottom of the tube is flush with the
> bottom of the square piece. Did anyone else have this problem? Can I
> sand down the weld on the bottom part of the tube?
>
>
> I can=92t find anyone=92s website that shows good pictures or give any
> explanation about how they approached this.
>
> Bryan Hooks
> RV-7A, slow build
> Knoxville, TN
> bryanhooks@comcast.net
>
>
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