Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:21 AM - 2004 List of Contributors - A Special Thank You... (Matt Dralle)
2. 10:30 AM - Riveting Question (Scott R. Shook)
3. 10:45 AM - Re: Riveting Question (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
4. 10:50 AM - Re: Another riveting question (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
5. 11:02 AM - Re: Riveting Question (Dan Checkoway)
6. 11:06 AM - Re: Another riveting question (Franz Fux)
7. 11:36 AM - Re: Another riveting question (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
8. 11:46 AM - Fuselage Parts (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
9. 11:54 AM - Re: Riveting Question (Hull, Don)
10. 12:03 PM - Re: Fuselage Parts (DonVS)
11. 12:13 PM - Re: Riveting Question (Walter Tondu)
12. 01:14 PM - Re: Another riveting question (Herron, Al)
13. 01:20 PM - Re: MEK (Frank Stringham)
14. 01:52 PM - Re: Another riveting question (Bob Collins)
15. 02:03 PM - Re: Another riveting question (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
16. 02:18 PM - Re: Another riveting question (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
17. 07:05 PM - Re: Fuselage Parts (LarryRobertHelming)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 2004 List of Contributors - A Special Thank You... |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
First let me say Thank You to everyone that made a Contribution in support
of the Lists this year! I was particularly touched by all of the wonderful
comments people made regarding the Lists and how much they mean to
them. As I have said many times before, running these Lists and creating
the many new features is truly a labor of love. This is why your comments
of support and appreciation have particular meaning for me. Your
generosity during this time of List support only underscores the delightful
sentiments people have made regarding the Lists.
I would also once again like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore
( http://www.buildersbooks.com ) who so generously supported this year's
Fund Raiser with both free and substantially discounted merchandise!! Andy
is truly one of a kind, and a superb businessman, and I cannot thank him
enough for all that he's done! If you have any aircraft media needs in the
near future, I would ask that you please give his great web site a
look. Thanks again Andy, for all your support!
And I would also like to thank Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises
(www.kitlog.com) who has generously contributed free registered copies of
his great Windows Kit Logging software called Kitlog Pro in support of this
year's List Fund Raiser! Thank you, Paul! For those of you that selected
this sweet gift, you should be receiving your Registration Key directly
from Paul in the next week or so.
And finally, below you will find the 2004 List of Contributors current as
of 12/5/04! Have a look at the list of names there as these are the people
that make all of these List services possible! I can't thank you all
enough for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund
Raiser! THANK YOU!
There are still a few of the various Free Gifts left, so please feel free
to yet make your Contribution and get a great Free Gift to-boot! Once
again, the URL for the Contributions web site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks. I hope to
have everything shipping out by the end of the month. Generally everything
will go out via USPS, so be nice to your postman this month, he might be
bringing you something fun!
Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
------------------ 2004 List of Contributors ---------------------
Aldrich, Scott
Alexander, George
Aller, Daniel
Alley, Brian
Amos, Paul
Amundsen, Blair
Anderson, Edward
Anthony, Bruce
Applefeld, Gerald
Applegate, William
Arbeitman, Gordon
Archer, Matt
Ashcraft, Keith
Ashford, James
Austin, Peter
Ayers, Jim
Babb, Tony
Bahrns, Stan
Bailey, Rick
Baker, Jim
Baker, Mike
Baker, Owen
Baker, Roger
Baker, Victor
Bakke, Bj%f8rn
Baldwin, James
Ballard, Jerry
Ballenger, James
Banes, John
Banyai, Michael
Barnes, Tom
Barnett, W.Mark
Barrie, Darwin
Barter, Tom
Basiliere, Rick
Bates, Jr, Marcus
BauerJr, Fred
Bean, James
Bean, Robert
Beauchamp, Norm
Beene, Kenneth
Bell, Bruce
Benjamin, Hal
Benson, Lonn
Benson, Lonnie
Bergh, Dave
Bernard, William
Berner, Walter
Bernier, Jim
Bertelli, John
Berthet, Andre
Bertz, Gary
Bettmeng, Rick
Bezzard, Richard
Bidle, Jerry
Bieberdorf, Roger
Bikle, Alan
Bish, Dan
Blackwell, Charles
Blackwell, Jimmie
Blake, James
Boardman, Don
Bockelman, David
Boetto, Steve
Bonds, Kevin
Boothe, Gary
Booze, George
Borger, Robert
Borne, Chuck
Bothe, Andreas
Boucher, Michel
Boulet, Paul
Bourne, Larry
Bowden, Terry
Bowen, Larry
Bowhay, Eustance
Bowman, John
Boyd, Don
Boyer, James
Brame, Charles
Brandt, Leroy
Branscomb, Warren
Brasch, Glenn
Breckenridge, Bruce
Brick, John
Briggs, Tracy
Brooks, John
Brooks, Sterling
Broom, Richard
Brown, David
Brown, Ken
Brown, Kent
Brown, Robert
Brunke, John
Bryan, Mark
Bryan, Tim
Bryant, Geoff
Buchanan, Guy
Buchanan, Sam
Buchmann, Kenneth
Buehlmann, Peter
Buess, Alfred
Bullock, Jack
Burden, Ronald
Burke, James
Burnett, Ron
Burns, Mark
Burrill, Phil
Burton, Charlie
Burton, James
Butcher, Jim
Butcher, Ron
Butler, Francis
Butler, Sherman
Butler, Thomas
Butterfield, John
Buyse, Lieven
Caldwell, Lapsley
Calloway, Terry
Cann, Robert
Cannon, Paul
Cantrell, Jimmy
Cantrell, Kenneth
Capen, Ralph
Capra, Salvatore
Carlton, Raymond
Carpenter, Kenneth
Carroll, Randy
Carter, David
Carter, Howard
Cary, William
Celestre, Rich
Challgren, Stanley
Chambers, Leslie
Chandler, Rick
Chatham, Bob
Chenoweth, William
Chevaillier, Mason
Ciolino, John
Clark, James
Clark, John
Clay, Dennis
Clayton, James
Clement, Jim
Clyma, Frank
Coalwell, Timothy
Cochran, Stewart
Cockrell, Alan
Coggins, Mickey
Cole, Gary
Cole, Gerry
Collins, Bob
Colucci, Tony
Combs, Doyle
Compton, Scott
Condrey, Bob
Conkling, J.Michael
Connell, Joseph
Conrad, Gerald
Constant, Jeremy
Cook, Craig
Cook, Doug
Cooley, John
Cooper, James
Copeland, Garrett
Corbalis, .Leo
Corbett, Claude
Corder, Michael
Corner, Jim
Corriveau, Grant
Cottingham, Richard
Cottrell, Larry
Coursey, William
Courtney, James
Cox, JimL.
Crane, James
Cravener, Don
Craze, Gary
Cribb, William
Crimm, Steve
Crockett, James
Crosby, Harry
Crosley, Rich
Crowe, Michael
Cruikshank, Bruce
Cummings, Tom
Dalstrom, Douglas
Dalton, Bob
Danclovic, Paul
Danielsen, HansJ%f8rgen
Danner, Robert
Daudt, Larry
Daughenbaugh, Rj
Daves, Russell
Davidson, Janet
Davidson, Jeff
Davies, Brian
Davis, Charles
Davis, Peter
Davis, Robert
Dawson, Clif
Dawson, Garth
De Jong, Jan
Decuir, John
Deford, David
Deits, DPaul
Dennis, Chris
Dettmer, Randy
Dewees, Ron
Dial, Larry
Diehl, Donald
Disher, John
Dixon, Thomas
Dominey, Clifford
Dominy, Kenneth
Donaghue, James
Donaldson, Norman
Donato, John
Dornseif, Keith
Dowling, Jeff
Dresden, Robert
Dubroc, Tommy
Dudley, Richard
Duffy, Russell
Dukerich, Tom
Duncan, Rod
Durakovich, David
Durbrow, John
Eckel, John
Edwards, Joseph
Ehlers, ClydeD.
Elder,jr, William
Eli, Robert
Ellenberger, Mike
Elliott, Andrew
Ellis, Dale
Ellsworth, Jim
Elrod, Michael
Emberson, Cory
Engh, Duncan
Enns, Dennis
Ensing, Dale
Erb, Robert
Erickson, Alan
Ervin, Thomas
Erwin, Chip
Esterhuizen, Deon
Evans, Kathleen
Evans, Marion
Fackler, Ken
Fair, WilliamD
Falik, Donald
Farrell, Patrick
Farris, Greg
Fasching, John
Faulkner, Thomas
Featherston, Les
Feldman, Herb
Ferguson, Darren
Ferguson, Jay
Ferguson, John
Fifield, Scott
Figgins, David
Filucci, Michael
Firm, Howard
Fischer, Douglas
Fischer, John
Fishe, JF
Fisher, Michael
Fitt, Lowell
Fitzpatrick, Robert
Fix, Douglas
Flavin, John
Fluent, Grant
Foerster, James
Fogerson, Richard
Ford, John
Ford, Larry
Fordham, Chris
Forsberg, Erik
Fox, Byron
Frantz, Terry
Frederickson, John
French, James
Friel, Christopher
Frye, Dwight
Fulgham, Bill
Fullilove, Ken
Fulmer, JosephA
Fulp, John
Fussell, Larry
Futrell, Billie
Fux, Franz
Gagnon, Laurent
Gagnon, Tim
Gardner, Albert
Garforth, Richard
Gates, Leo
Gauthier, Alain
Geese, Ronald
Geldermann, Daniel
Genzlinger, Reade
George, Joseph
George, Neal
George, William
German, Mark
Gernetzke, Jill
Gherardini, Don
Giacona, William
Gibbons, Robert
Gibbs, Al
Giddens, Gerald
Giles, Tom
Gillespie, Rl
Gilliatt, Jim
Gingell, Rob
Gitt, Larry
Glaeser, Dennis
Glass, Roy
Glauser, David
Gleason, Mike
Goguen, Nelson
Golden, Shane
Goode, Richard
Goodings, John
Goodridge, Stuart
Goolsby, Jim
Gordon, Keith
Gott, Shelby
Gottelt, Herbert
Goudinoff, Peter
Gowing, John
Grabb, Gary
Graber, Joel
GrahamJr, WDoyce
Graichen, Peter
Grant, Jordan
Grantz, Alan
Green, Luther
Greenough, James
Gregory, Steve
Griese, Wayne
Griffin, Bill
Griffin, Robert
Grosse, John
Gummo, Thomas
Gunn, Jim
Gunn, John
Gustafson, Aaron
Haecker, H.Ivan
Haertlein, Frank
Hagar, Steve
Hale, Adrian
Hale, Michael
Haley, Gary
Hall, Charles
Hall, Joel
Hallsten, Keith
Hamer, Steve
Hamilton, Red
Hamilton, William J
Hankins, Roger
Hansen, Graham
Hansen, Ronald
Harding, Christopher
Haring, Robert
Harmon, John
Harmon, Loren
Harrison, Nigel
Harrod, Peter
Hart, Jack
Hartley, Keith
Harvey, Dale
Hasler, James
Hasper, Jim
Hatch, Pat
Hatfield, Cicil
Hauck, John
Haverlah, Dennis
Heath, Donald
Heaton, Herb
Hedrick, Keith
Hefner, Jim
Hegler, Freddie
Heindl, Karl
Helming, Larry
Henson, Eric
Henwick, Mark
Heritch, Ian
Herminghaus, John
Herrick, DavidC
Herron, Al
Hershberger, Edward
Hetrick, Dale
Heykoop, John
Hibbing, William
Higgins, Floran
Higgins, Graham
Hilker, David
Hill, Buryl
Hill, Jeff
Hill, StanleyA.
Hinrichsen, James
Hodge, Jack
Hodgson, Bob
Hodgson, Mark
Hoffman, Allan
Hoffman, Carl
Hoffmann, Thomas
Holifield, Steve
Holland, Rick
Holmes, Paul
Hood, Bill
Hooper, Randy
Hoover, Ralph
Hopper, Daniel
Horne, Gilbert
Horton, Kevin
Hoyle, Clifford
Hubbard, Eugene
Hueltz, Wolfgang
Hughes, Robert
Humes, Hubert
Humphrey, Steve
Hurd, James
HurnsAircraft, JohnA.Hurn
Hurst, Kingsley
Hutcheson, Galen
Hutcheson, Joe
Hutcheson, Joseph
Hutchison, Tom
Hyde, Ken
Hyndman, Ross
Imken, Chuck
Inman, George
Isler, Jerry
Jacko, Victor
Jackson, Kevin
James, Ken
Jarvis, Andrew
Jaussi, Curtis
Jenkins, John
Jensen, Charles
Jensen, Jim
Jensen, Marinus
Johannsson, Johann
Johansson, Max
Johnsen, Svein
Johnson, Anthony
Johnson, Dale
Johnson, Darrell
Johnson, Dennis
Johnson, Edwin
Johnson, Les
Johnson, Lytle
Johnson, Thomas
Johnston, Bruce
Johnston, Leroy
Johnston, Stephen
JonCroke, Homebuilthelp.Com
Jones, Alvin
Jones, Eric
Joosten, Craig
Jordan, JR
Joyce, David
Joyce, John
Jula, TheodoreF
Jung, John
Jurotich, Matthew
Kaluza, Charles
Kane, Lawrence
Kaser, Jim
Katra, James
Kearney, John
Keener, Forest
Kellum, Mark
Kempthorne, Hal
Kennedy, Robert
Kent, John
Kesterton, Donald
Kilburg, Larry
Killion, Clay
Kimsey, Thomas
King, Jack
King, John
Kirby, David
Kirby, Dennis
Klein, Fred
Klingmuller, Lothar
Kohles, Jerry
Koonce, R.L.
Kosta, Michael
Koyich, Ron
Kramer, Ed
Krasinski, Jerzy
Krok, Peter
Krueger, Grant
Kruleski, Chet
Kruleski, ChetM.
Krysztopik, Gary
Kuehn, George
Kunkel, Fred
Kuntz, Paul
Kyle, Fergus
Laird, Dave
Lake, Bob
Lalonde, Bart
Landucci, Larry
Lannon, Walter
Lansden, John
Larzilliere, Alain
Lathrop, Jim
Laughlin, Ron
Laurence, Peter
Laurie, Kip
Lawson, John
Lawton, John
Lax, Chuck
Lechkun, Dave
Ledbetter, Gene
Ledoux, Paul
Lee, BoonLeong
Lefler, Fabian
Leggette, Edward
Lehmann, August
Leinberger, Construction
Lekven, Carl
Lemen, Ted Lemen
Lenton, Dennis
Lerohl, Gaylen
Lewis, Terry
Licking, Lawrence
Liebmann, Ron
Lind, David
Lineberry, Gary
Linse, Michael
Lively, Chad
Long, Charles
Long, Eugene
Long, PatrickG
Longwell, Anna
Loring, Arthur
Loubert, Gary
Lovchik, Alan
Lovley, Forrest
Luther, Mike
Lyden, Jim
Macdonald, Larry
Macinnes, Bruce
Mackay, Alex
Madden, Peter
Mader, David
Madigan, Bob
Mains, Ralph
Malczynski, Fran
Mansfield, Ray
Markey, John
Markle, Jim
Markwwell, Cleone
Marr, Giffen
Marshall, Tony
Marshall, William
Martin, Brad
Martin, Bryan
Martin, Mickey
Martinez, Ernest
Martinez, Ernest
Marzluf, John P.
Mason, John
Mason, Marty
Massey, Allen
Mather, Peter
Matlack, Dean
Matteson, Lynn
Maxson, Phillip
Mayer, Neil
Maynard, Brad
Mcanally, Robert
Mccallister, Donald
Mccallum, Robert
Mccarty, Mike
Mcconnell, Roger
Mcculley, Jim
Mcdonald, Frank
Mcfarland, Larry
Mcfarland, Randy
Mcfarlane, Lloyd
Mcgregor, Bruce
Mcintyre, Jay
Mcintyre, Patrick
Mcleod, Neil
Mcnutt, George
Mcpherson, Miller
McShane, Eugene
Mears, Mike
Medeiros, Joel
Mei, Don
Mekeel, DonaldE
Melenyzer Iv, Cl
Merchant, Dean
Messinger, Paul
Metzger, Jim
Meyer, Steve
Meyers, Jess
Michaud, David
Miles, Simon
Milgrom, Mark
Miller, David
Miller, Mark
Miller, William
Mills, Moe
Mills, Rodney
Mills, William
Mitchell, Dale
Mitchell, Duane
Moak, Ken
Montagne, Ray
Moore, David
Moore, Goff
Moore, Warren
Moran, Felix
Morisse, Darrel
Morrison, Douglas
Morrow, Dan
Mortimore, Terry
Mrotzek, Dan
Mueller, Michael
Munn, Mike
Munz, Devin
Murphy, Thomas
Murphy, Walt
Murray, Ronald
Myers, George
Myers, John
Nadeau, Michael
Nation, Arthur
Navratil, Richard
Naylor, Bruce
Neilsen, Richard
Nelson, Jim
Nelson, Larry
Nelson, William
Newkirk, Bill
Nicely, Vincent
Nichols, CE
Nickson, Dennis
Niedermeyer, Carl
Niles, Bruce
Noon, Bruce
North, Wheeler
Nowakowski, Don
Noyer, Robert
Nuckolls, Robert
O Reilly, Colm
O'Brien, Dan
Ockuly, Bernie
Oconnor, Edward
Ohara, T.
Ohlinger, Mark&Judy
Okeefe, Lawrence
Oldford, David
Olds, Robert R.
Olofsson, Brian
Olsen, Paul
Olson, Bob
Olson, Tim
Olson, Tom
Omelchuck, Jason
Orear, Jeff
Osborne, Roger
Owens, Duane
Palamarek, Ted
Park, David
Parker, Dennis
Partyka, LeeM
Patellos, Sam
Patsey, Kevin
Paule, David
Paulich, John
Paulsen, David
Payne, Craig
Pearsall, Don
Peck, Brian
Pedersen, Wayne
Pelletier, Dave
Perez, M.Domenic
Perry, Gregg
Persels, Lyle
Petersen, Dave
Petersen, Paul
Peterson, Alex
Peterson, DavidA
Petri, David
Pettey, Don
Petty, Paul
Peyton, Douglas
Pfeifer, Michael
Pflimlin, Paul
Pfundt, Jan
Phillips, Mark
Phipps, Mark
Pierce, Tony
Pike, Richard
Pilling, Kevin
Pocock, Graham
Point, Jeff
Pollard, Jim
Porter, Denis
Porter, John
Porter, Richard
Portouw, Lawrence
Powell, Ken
Power, Stephen
Preston, Doug
Przestrzelski, John
Puckett, Greg
Puglise, James
Puls, Jeffrey
Quinn, Rollie
Rabaut, Chuck
Radford, Joe
Rampil, Ira
Randolph, George
Rasmussen, Chris
RayJr., RobertG.
Redmon, James
Reel, David
Reid, Greg
Reith, Bruno
Render, James
Reyes, Randy
Reyna, Jake
Reynolds, Richard
Rhea, Larry
Rice, Mike
Richards, Stephen
Richardson, Colin
Rickard, Ian
Rickman, Loy
Rigby, David
Ritter, Mark
Roberts, Gary
Roberts, Rick
Robertson, Bob
Rodenbush, James
Rodriguez, Paul
Rodriguez-flores, Pedro
Romine, Chris
Ronnau, James
Ross, Christopher
Rowe, Jay
Rozendaal, Douglas
Rudnick, Ron
Ruksnaitis, William
Russell, Frank
Russell, Jack
Russell, Larry
Russell, Randy
Sa, Carlos
Sager, Truman
Sagerser, JamesA.
Saligman, Ira
Salter, Phil
Sapp, Doug
Sargent, Thomas
Savarese, AnthonyDennis
Sax, Sam
Scaggs, Billy
Scarlett, Donald
Schieber, Cedric
Schieffer, Charles
Schlafly, Fred
Schlanser, Eric
Schlosser, Kevin
Schmidt, Patty And John
Schneider, Keith
Schneider, Werner
Schoenberger, H.Robert
Schoonover, Donovan
Schrader, Kurt
Schrimmer, Mark
Schroeder, Earl
Schroeder, John
Scott, Mark
Scott, Richard
Scott, Troy
Scroggs, Ross
Seal, John
Seaton, Gary
Selby, Jim
Selix, Richard
Servaty, Paul
Sessford, Kenneth
Shablow, John
Shafer, Jim
Shank, William
Shanks, Jim
Shaw, Cliff
Shaw, Rex
Sheen, JamesD.
Shepherd, Dallas
Shepherd, Stanislaus
Shiple, Fred
Shipley, Rob
Shipley, Walt
Shumaker, James
Shumaker, Robert
Siegfried, OldBob
Silvester, Andy
Simenauer, David
Simmons, Kendall
Simpson, Larry
Sinke, Jim
Sipp, Richard
Skelly, Brian
Slater, Martin
Sletten, Mark
Sloan, Alex
Slutz, Gary
Smith, David
Smith, Ed
Smith, Gene
Smith, Joe
Smith, Tracy
Smythe, Donald
Snedaker, Bob
Sorensen, Lance
Spainhower, Craig
Sparks, Tim
Specht, Stan
Spencer, Scott
Sport Plane LLLC, John & Debra McBean
Springer, Jerry
Staal, Stephen
Stafford, Patrick
Staley, Dick
Staples, Brian
Starke, Jonathan
Starn, John
Stauffer, Mark
Steele, Jack
Steffler, Terry
Steuber, Edward
Stewart, Michael
Stewart, Shannon
Stinemetze, Thomas
St-laurent, Ray
Stone, Christopher
Stone, James
Stone, Rob
Strange, Ted
Strong, Gary
Stroud, David
Stuart, Bill
Stuart, T.Clay
Suffoletto, Richard
Sulloway, Alvah
Sutterfield, Stan
Swaney, Mark
Swanson, Ronald
Sweidan, Gerald
Swinford, George
Szantho, JohnB
Talley, Quinn
Tasker, Richard
Tatham, Will
Tatham`, Will
Tellet, David
Textor, Jack
Tezyk, Robert
Therrien, Michel
Thomas, Lee
Thomas, Ned
Thomason, Mannan
Thomason, Michael
Thomson, Malcolm
Thwing, RandyL.
Timm, Peter
Tode, Michael
Toivio, Raimo
Tomlin, Thomas
Tompkins, Jeff
Tonkin, Randy
Toro, Jose
Tower, John
Tower, Nelson
Tuck, John
Tuckwell, Richard
Tupper, Kirby
Tuton, Beauford
Tvedte, John
Tyler, George
Unruh, Brian
Unternaehrer, Rolf
Uribe, Guillermo
Utter, Robert
Valovich, Paul
Vanartsdalen, Scott
Vance, Donn
Vandenbroek, Martin
Vandervort, Ronald
Vangrunsven, Stan
VanHeeswijk, Jack
VanSanten, Don
Vanwinkle, Alden
Varnes, William
Venohr, Robert
Verdev, Victor
Vermeulen, Bob
Vervoort, Jef
Vetterli, Richard
Von Bevern, Brian
Von Doymi, Carl
Vormbaum, John
Voss, Richard
Vranken, Karel
Wagner Jr., James E.
Wagoner, Richard
Walker, Thomas
Walker, Weston
Walmsley, Brett
Walrath, Howard
Walsh, Denis
Walter, Daniel
Wanamaker, John
Washburn, Ollie
Waters, Pete
Watson, Richard
Watson, Terrence
Weaver, Fred
Webb, Randol
Wehner, Clement
Weiler, Douglas
Wells, George
Welsh, Don
Wetzel, Bob
Whelan, Thomas
White, Charles
White, Phil
Whiteley, Kenneth
Whitman, Timothy
Whittington, Dewitt
Wigney, John
Wikstrom, Michael
Wiley, Robert
Williams, Terry
Williamson, Danny
Willig, Louis
Wimmer, Thomas
Winfree, Anthony
Woboril, David
Wolf, James
Wolfe, Brooks
Wood, Callbie
Wood, Frank
Wood, Larry
Wright, David
Wright, Jim
Wsiaki, Michael
Wymer, Gerald
Yager, Jack
Yeamans, David
Young, Dee
Young, Greg
Young, John
Zinkham, Ralph
Zollinger, Duane
Zuniga, Oscar
Zweifel, Ron
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Riveting Question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook@cox.net>
Ok so I have the skins, ribs, and spars of the HS dimpled, primed, etc. and
I have a question.
If you are using the same dimple die for dimpling the skins and spars/ribs,
how does one account for the thickness of the skin?
There are spots where the skins appear to have a very slight gap between the
rib/spar to which they attach on spot I noticed this was on the outboard end
of the rear spar to the skin.
I thought about this while I was countersinking my 710/714 but really did
not revisit it until now. If you are dimpling the skin to account for a
flush AN426 on the skin and this same dimple die is used on your ribs/spars,
would there not be a clearance issue with the ribs/spars.
The rivets on the skins sit perfectly flush but I am wondering if this is
normal or if I did something wrong.
Thank You,
Scott
RV-7A
Empennage
Message 3
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| Subject: | Riveting Question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
I just finished my VS and it came out OK...I did have the same concern
but I did not notice and gaps when I rivited it all together.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook
Subject: RV7-List: Riveting Question
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook@cox.net>
Ok so I have the skins, ribs, and spars of the HS dimpled, primed, etc.
and I have a question.
If you are using the same dimple die for dimpling the skins and
spars/ribs, how does one account for the thickness of the skin?
There are spots where the skins appear to have a very slight gap between
the rib/spar to which they attach on spot I noticed this was on the
outboard end of the rear spar to the skin.
I thought about this while I was countersinking my 710/714 but really
did not revisit it until now. If you are dimpling the skin to account
for a flush AN426 on the skin and this same dimple die is used on your
ribs/spars, would there not be a clearance issue with the ribs/spars.
The rivets on the skins sit perfectly flush but I am wondering if this
is normal or if I did something wrong.
Thank You,
Scott
RV-7A
Empennage
Message 4
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| Subject: | Another riveting question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven a solid rivet
before. They all came out OK except that the flush rivet set marks the
skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a scotchbite pad won't
take out so presumably no big deal?
I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which is a little
trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around but as the rivets are
flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the skins?
Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of life?
Thanks
Frank
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> If you are using the same dimple die for dimpling the skins and
> spars/ribs, how does one account for the thickness of the skin?
Use a bigger hammer. ;-)
Are you sure you're getting fully-formed dimples? In theory, the end result
after dimpling should be symmetrical on the top and bottom surface of the
skin. If the dies fit together, then skin dimples should fit into each
other.
Also, quality of dimple dies may play into the equation. I learned late in
the project that not all dimple dies are created equal. Some of the best
dimple dies, which form the cleanest, most properly deep dimples I've seen
are the ones my hangar-mate Linas has:
http://images.rvproject.com/images/2004/20041023_dimple_dies.jpg I'll be
getting (or stealing) a set of these before my next project begins.
Your mileage may vary -- at some rare times you may have to "touch up"
dimples using a countersink tool. Try to avoid that if possible, but
whatever works for you!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Another riveting question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Franz Fux" <franz@lastfrontierheli.com>
Just put a piece of masking tape over the part of the gun that contacts the
rivet and it will slide less and will mark the skin less. Other than that
the marks are pretty normal and will come out during the prep for painting.
Franz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Another riveting question
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven a solid rivet
before. They all came out OK except that the flush rivet set marks the
skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a scotchbite pad won't
take out so presumably no big deal?
I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which is a little
trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around but as the rivets are
flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the skins?
Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of life?
Thanks
Frank
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Another riveting question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Frank -
You may be hitting too hard.
Try turning the air pressure down.
With my Taylor 2X gun I never use more than 30-psi on -3 rivets.
Use a *regulator* to control the pressure.
The cute little swivel-valve contraption that came with my Cleveland kit
makes a fair swivel and a horrible regulator.
Use the heaviest bucking bar that you can to reduce the number of hits
required.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (tanks closed!)
RV-8 N998GM (HS dimpled)
> except that the flush rivet set marks the skins when driving the 426's.
Frank <
Message 8
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--> RV7-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Listers -
I'm pondering the fuselage order (RV-7 Slider), and would appreciate some
guidance.
I plan to delete the chains (Rocket Steering Link) and boiler valve (Andair)
and add the firewall recess.
What other substitutions or changes would you make if you had it to do over?
Neal
Message 9
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| Subject: | Riveting Question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull@nasa.gov>
Scott, Some builders use "Tank Skin Dimple Dies" from Cleaveland Tool. See
www.cleavelandtool.com
The item number is DIE4263T
When used on the ribs/spars, they provide a slightly deeper dimple for the
dimpled skin to set into. Notice they are only used on the underlying ribs
or spars. A standard 3/32" dimple die is used to dimple the skin. I've
been pleased with the results on my RV-7 empennage.
Don Hull
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott R. Shook [mailto:sshook@cox.net]
Subject: RV7-List: Riveting Question
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook@cox.net>
Ok so I have the skins, ribs, and spars of the HS dimpled, primed, etc. and
I have a question.
If you are using the same dimple die for dimpling the skins and spars/ribs,
how does one account for the thickness of the skin?
There are spots where the skins appear to have a very slight gap between the
rib/spar to which they attach on spot I noticed this was on the outboard end
of the rear spar to the skin.
I thought about this while I was countersinking my 710/714 but really did
not revisit it until now. If you are dimpling the skin to account for a
flush AN426 on the skin and this same dimple die is used on your ribs/spars,
would there not be a clearance issue with the ribs/spars.
The rivets on the skins sit perfectly flush but I am wondering if this is
normal or if I did something wrong.
Thank You,
Scott
RV-7A
Empennage
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 10
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--> RV7-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
You may have problems getting the rocket steering link. Repeated requests
for information and how to order have not been answered. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of George Neal E
Capt AU/PC
Subject: RV7-List: Fuselage Parts
--> RV7-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC
<Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Listers -
I'm pondering the fuselage order (RV-7 Slider), and would appreciate some
guidance.
I plan to delete the chains (Rocket Steering Link) and boiler valve (Andair)
and add the firewall recess.
What other substitutions or changes would you make if you had it to do over?
Neal
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 12/06 11:01, Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > If you are using the same dimple die for dimpling the skins and
> > spars/ribs, how does one account for the thickness of the skin?
>
> Use a bigger hammer. ;-)
>
> Are you sure you're getting fully-formed dimples? In theory, the end result
> after dimpling should be symmetrical on the top and bottom surface of the
> skin. If the dies fit together, then skin dimples should fit into each
> other.
>
> Also, quality of dimple dies may play into the equation. I learned late in
> the project that not all dimple dies are created equal. Some of the best
> dimple dies, which form the cleanest, most properly deep dimples I've seen
> are the ones my hangar-mate Linas has:
> http://images.rvproject.com/images/2004/20041023_dimple_dies.jpg I'll be
> getting (or stealing) a set of these before my next project begins.
I concur. These dies are fantastic. Plus PART sells a great
pneumatic squeezer for a very good price. And the dimple dies
come with the squeezer, or at least they did when I bought them.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Another riveting question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Herron, Al" <Al.Herron@Aerojet.com>
The marks won't hurt anything as long as they're not actual dents in the
skin - you're probably going to paint your plane anyway, right? Even if you
don't the surface marks will polish out. One tip: the mushroom-style sets
(slightly concave surface) are a lot more forgiving of slight misalignments
than the flat set with a "square shoulder". Found this out the hard way
(nothing a little Bondo won't fix!) :
{
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Another riveting question
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven a solid rivet
before. They all came out OK except that the flush rivet set marks the
skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a scotchbite pad won't
take out so presumably no big deal?
I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which is a little
trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around but as the rivets are
flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the skins?
Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of life?
Thanks
Frank
Message 13
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DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
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;
--> RV7-List message posted by: Frank Stringham <fstringham7a@yahoo.com>
Hi to all
Don't you just love the smell of MEK and Proseal in the morning. Kind of reminds
of Robert Duvall in Apocalyse Now when he said, " don't you just love the smell
of napalm in the morining".....
Had my baptism to the gouuuuuuuuuuuuie stuff this AM. Got all the tools, towels,
Mek, Rubber gloves covered with through away surgical gloves, paint respiriator.............and
went to it. Mixed a cartridge of Proseal: very thick, hard
to mix, and really hard to expel from the cartridge. Used a popcicle stick to
glob the stuff on the aft stiffener of the rudder. Smoothed out.....got some
on the gloves...get new gloves...........the old gloves now stuck to my shoes...........new
gloves now stuck to the rubber gloves ...................get new
rubber gloves covered again with new surgical gloves...................paper
towel moved and now the stuff is on the work table..................back to the
stiffener after clean up of table. Put stiffener in the aft rudder ...tight
fit..........change surgical gloves.......slowly open aft edge of rudder and
push siffener in.....................cleco Aluminum angle to aft edge of rudder.
Boy that baby is as straight as an
arrow..........................................DONE.....Crap I still have to clean
up.................again don';t you just love the smell of Proseal in the
morning.
Now the ?????????How long will the excess proseal keep that is in the cartridge
Thanks for you listening ear and help
Frank @SGU and SLC Ready to start the wing this week!!!!!!!!!!!!!
---------------------------------
Message 14
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;
| Subject: | Another riveting question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Bob Collins <bcollins747_1999@yahoo.com>
Expanding on this a bit more, I've done almost all of
my riveting solo, and that includes the bottom skins
on both wings without any help. I finished the right
wing this weekend and I'm amazed at how nice they came
out.
First, on the subject of marks, don't worry about it.
When you first pull off the blue plastic, it's so nice
and pretty and shiney you just want it to be that way
forever. Then a fingerprint here, a fingerprint there
and all of a sudden they're not shiny anymore. Bummer.
But unless we're talking dings, it doesn't matter.
It's true you can put some masking tape on the rivet
set and that helps. But you really have to monitor the
condition of that tape because as it wears away (and
it'll wear away relatively quickly), it's possible
that as you drive a rivet and the gun slides a little
bit, a little sliver of that adhesive will get under
the rivet. And you'll have a crappy rivet.
I use the swivel head set with the rubber guard (the
one that Cleaveland use to put in their catalog with
the notation, "recommended by others, but not by us."
I never understood why because I think it's great.
Your riveting will improve over time but there are
some principles available to you know which become
clear only through experience and, more important,
bucking by yourself in tight spots.
The most important thing is to prevent the rivet set
from sliding AND to make sure the bucking bar is flat.
If you make sure the gun is centered on the flush
head, and the bucking bar is flat on the shop head
side, you'll be less likely to skid.
How can you check this? Simple. And this works great
when you're bucking blind (that is, you can't see the
bucking bar). Just before you shoot. Push on the
bucking bar. It'll lift the rivet set off the skin. As
it does, does the set, or the gun lean one way or the
other? If it does, it's not centered. So move the gun
up or down slightly.
The other mistake that some people make is putting too
much pressure on the bucking bar when shooting... as
if the harder you push, the better the shop head. It
won't work that way because what you end up doing is
pushing back on the gun, via the rivet, which will
lift the gun off the skin ever so slightly and away
you go.
Just place that bucking bar on the rivet and hold
enough pressure there to keep it there. It'll do all
the work.
Also, check the psi for the gun if it's really
skidding around. It might be possible to lower the
setting to something less likely to make it bounce,
and get better rivets in the process.
Flush rivets are fun to shoot because when you first
start, yeah, they're flush....but you can almost feel
the depression. Eventually, you'll run your finger
over the surface, and you'll have a hard time telling
where the skin ends and the rivet begins.
And finally, the BEST part of the technique you can
learn? Don't take the bucking bar off or the gun off
the material until it's stopped. This sounds like a
real "duh," but I found that counting "one thousand
one, one thousand two" after you let go of the trigger
teaches you a technique that eventually becomes
reflexive.
But, especially on universal heads, you'll be amazed
at how easy is to put a smiley on these things and
much of it is avoidable through just two things:
everything straight and perpendicular....and don't
lift anything off the surface until you're sure you've
stopped.
Bob
St. Paul
--- Franz Fux <franz@lastfrontierheli.com> wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Franz Fux"
> <franz@lastfrontierheli.com>
>
> Just put a piece of masking tape over the part of
> the gun that contacts the
> rivet and it will slide less and will mark the skin
> less. Other than that
> the marks are pretty normal and will come out during
> the prep for painting.
> Franz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On
> Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
> George (Corvallis)
> To: rv7-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Another riveting question
>
>
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George
> (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven
> a solid rivet
> before. They all came out OK except that the flush
> rivet set marks the
> skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a
> scotchbite pad won't
> take out so presumably no big deal?
>
> I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which
> is a little
> trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around
> but as the rivets are
> flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the
> skins?
>
> Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of
> life?
>
> Thanks
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Another riveting question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Funny you should mention paint...As I was musing on how good Dan
Checkoway's plane looks as he is polishing it, my Wife exclaimed..."Oh
no. This plane is not going to be like the last one (pop riveted
zodiac). If we are spending $80K on this thing its going to have
paint"....Bummer, another 3 months in the shop!...:)
Nope, not dents, one small crease from the underside where I was
balancing the bucking bar on my fingertips but that dressed out just
fine.
Thanks
Frank
VS done....."And he's off!"...:)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Herron, Al
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Another riveting question
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Herron, Al" <Al.Herron@Aerojet.com>
The marks won't hurt anything as long as they're not actual dents in the
skin - you're probably going to paint your plane anyway, right? Even if
you don't the surface marks will polish out. One tip: the
mushroom-style sets (slightly concave surface) are a lot more forgiving
of slight misalignments than the flat set with a "square shoulder".
Found this out the hard way (nothing a little Bondo won't fix!) : {
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Another riveting question
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven a solid rivet
before. They all came out OK except that the flush rivet set marks the
skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a scotchbite pad won't
take out so presumably no big deal?
I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which is a little
trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around but as the rivets are
flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the skins?
Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of life?
Thanks
Frank
Message 16
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| Subject: | Another riveting question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Thanks Bob....I'm printing this off and will try my technique on a few
scraps before proceeding...
Frank
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Another riveting question
--> RV7-List message posted by: Bob Collins <bcollins747_1999@yahoo.com>
Expanding on this a bit more, I've done almost all of
my riveting solo, and that includes the bottom skins
on both wings without any help. I finished the right
wing this weekend and I'm amazed at how nice they came
out.
First, on the subject of marks, don't worry about it.
When you first pull off the blue plastic, it's so nice
and pretty and shiney you just want it to be that way
forever. Then a fingerprint here, a fingerprint there
and all of a sudden they're not shiny anymore. Bummer.
But unless we're talking dings, it doesn't matter.
It's true you can put some masking tape on the rivet
set and that helps. But you really have to monitor the condition of that
tape because as it wears away (and it'll wear away relatively quickly),
it's possible that as you drive a rivet and the gun slides a little bit,
a little sliver of that adhesive will get under the rivet. And you'll
have a crappy rivet.
I use the swivel head set with the rubber guard (the
one that Cleaveland use to put in their catalog with
the notation, "recommended by others, but not by us."
I never understood why because I think it's great.
Your riveting will improve over time but there are
some principles available to you know which become
clear only through experience and, more important,
bucking by yourself in tight spots.
The most important thing is to prevent the rivet set
from sliding AND to make sure the bucking bar is flat.
If you make sure the gun is centered on the flush
head, and the bucking bar is flat on the shop head
side, you'll be less likely to skid.
How can you check this? Simple. And this works great
when you're bucking blind (that is, you can't see the
bucking bar). Just before you shoot. Push on the
bucking bar. It'll lift the rivet set off the skin. As
it does, does the set, or the gun lean one way or the
other? If it does, it's not centered. So move the gun
up or down slightly.
The other mistake that some people make is putting too
much pressure on the bucking bar when shooting... as
if the harder you push, the better the shop head. It
won't work that way because what you end up doing is
pushing back on the gun, via the rivet, which will
lift the gun off the skin ever so slightly and away
you go.
Just place that bucking bar on the rivet and hold
enough pressure there to keep it there. It'll do all
the work.
Also, check the psi for the gun if it's really
skidding around. It might be possible to lower the
setting to something less likely to make it bounce,
and get better rivets in the process.
Flush rivets are fun to shoot because when you first
start, yeah, they're flush....but you can almost feel
the depression. Eventually, you'll run your finger
over the surface, and you'll have a hard time telling
where the skin ends and the rivet begins.
And finally, the BEST part of the technique you can
learn? Don't take the bucking bar off or the gun off
the material until it's stopped. This sounds like a
real "duh," but I found that counting "one thousand
one, one thousand two" after you let go of the trigger
teaches you a technique that eventually becomes
reflexive.
But, especially on universal heads, you'll be amazed
at how easy is to put a smiley on these things and
much of it is avoidable through just two things:
everything straight and perpendicular....and don't
lift anything off the surface until you're sure you've
stopped.
Bob
St. Paul
--- Franz Fux <franz@lastfrontierheli.com> wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Franz Fux"
> <franz@lastfrontierheli.com>
>
> Just put a piece of masking tape over the part of
> the gun that contacts the
> rivet and it will slide less and will mark the skin
> less. Other than that
> the marks are pretty normal and will come out during
> the prep for painting.
> Franz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On
> Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
> George (Corvallis)
> To: rv7-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Another riveting question
>
>
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George
> (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven
> a solid rivet
> before. They all came out OK except that the flush
> rivet set marks the
> skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a
> scotchbite pad won't
> take out so presumably no big deal?
>
> I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which
> is a little
> trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around
> but as the rivets are
> flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the
> skins?
>
> Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of
> life?
>
> Thanks
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Parts |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
When I got my fuselage kit, they did not ship the fairing that fits the wing
to the fuselage. I would ask that it be sent with the fuselage kit and not
the finish kit.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty;
in meeting and solving problems, in facing facts;
in flying a virgin plane never flown before.
- Richard L. Evans & Larry R Helming
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Neal E Capt AU/PC" <Neal.George@maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: RV7-List: Fuselage Parts
> --> RV7-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC
<Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
>
> Listers -
>
> I'm pondering the fuselage order (RV-7 Slider), and would appreciate some
> guidance.
>
> I plan to delete the chains (Rocket Steering Link) and boiler valve
(Andair)
> and add the firewall recess.
>
> What other substitutions or changes would you make if you had it to do
over?
>
> Neal
>
>
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