Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:12 AM - Re: Another riveting question (Hopperdhh@AOL.com)
2. 09:03 AM - Re: Riveting Question (Brian Meyette)
3. 09:31 AM - Re: Riveting Question (Walter Tondu)
4. 09:33 AM - Re: Riveting Question (PART website) (Dave)
5. 09:41 AM - Re: Riveting Question (Walter Tondu)
6. 10:15 AM - Re: Riveting Question (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
7. 10:52 AM - Re: Riveting Question (Dwight Frye)
8. 02:53 PM - Re: Another riveting question (sportpilot)
9. 03:51 PM - Re: Another riveting question (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
10. 08:11 PM - Fuel tank to main skin gap? (Merems)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Another riveting question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Frank,
Two things.
One: using Van's riveting tape will help in several ways. Use a piece of
tape only about 2 inches long. Put it across the line of rivets. This will act
not only to hold the rivet in the hole, which I don't even consider to be much
of a benefit, but will act as a target to center up the flush rivet tool.
Where the line of rivets crosses the tape is the exact position of the rivet.
It also acts to protect the skin and the flush rivet tool. It does this by
keeping the tool from picking up soft aluminum from the surface of the skin and
galling the skin. Now, for the next rivet just use the same piece of tape
moving it about 1/8 inch as you place it over the next rivet. You can do about
10
or even 20 rivets with one 2 inch length of tape! You'll save hundreds of
dollars in tape alone! Whoops, I'm getting too excited!
Two: if you are more interested in getting a nice job than in getting done in
a hurry, try pre-squeezing the rivets up to the size that the hole is after
it is dimpled. After dimpling, the holes are about .100 inch. You can set up
your squeezer and do as many rivets as you'll need for a while. I would do
about 50 at a time. This helps in two ways. The skin takes less beating since
the rivets fatten up before the shop head starts to form anyway, and the
rivets are less likely to bend over (even a little) since they are now shorter
when
you start driving them.
The pros on the list will probably flame away at me, but when I started doing
these two things my riveting improved greatly. Yeah, maybe I'm too
particular, but when I'm up at 8500 feet or pulling 4 g's in a steep turn, I'm
glad I
took a little extra time putting it together.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since July -- about 80 hours)
In a message dated 12/6/04 1:51:11 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
frank.hinde@hp.com writes:
> Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven a solid rivet
> before. They all came out OK except that the flush rivet set marks the
> skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a scotchbite pad won't
> take out so presumably no big deal?
>
> I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which is a little
> trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around but as the rivets are
> flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the skins?
>
> Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of life?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Riveting Question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic@starband.net>
What's the source of these PART dimple dies you guys are referring to?
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Riveting Question
--> RV7-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 12/06 11:01, Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > If you are using the same dimple die for dimpling the skins and
> > spars/ribs, how does one account for the thickness of the skin?
>
> Use a bigger hammer. ;-)
>
> Are you sure you're getting fully-formed dimples? In theory, the end
result
> after dimpling should be symmetrical on the top and bottom surface of the
> skin. If the dies fit together, then skin dimples should fit into each
> other.
>
> Also, quality of dimple dies may play into the equation. I learned late
in
> the project that not all dimple dies are created equal. Some of the best
> dimple dies, which form the cleanest, most properly deep dimples I've
seen
> are the ones my hangar-mate Linas has:
> http://images.rvproject.com/images/2004/20041023_dimple_dies.jpg I'll be
> getting (or stealing) a set of these before my next project begins.
I concur. These dies are fantastic. Plus PART sells a great
pneumatic squeezer for a very good price. And the dimple dies
come with the squeezer, or at least they did when I bought them.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
---
---
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 12/07 11:54, Brian Meyette wrote:
> What's the source of these PART dimple dies you guys are referring to?
> brian
http://www.rivettools.com
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question (PART website) |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@coltnet.net>
Brian,
I believe they are referring to the following website
http://www.rivettools.com/
Dave
> What's the source of these PART dimple dies you guys are referring to?
> brian
> http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 12/07 11:54, Brian Meyette wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic@starband.net>
>
> What's the source of these PART dimple dies you guys are referring to?
> brian
> http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
http://www.rivettools.com
And I was mistaken, the rivet set was not free but was discounted
when I purchased my squeezer/rivet set combo. The discount is
still available if you purchase both at the same time.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Riveting Question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
A bit painful for a QB kit, but after a hundred or so hand squeezed
rivets I find my mind fantasising about pulling a nice pinky finger
little lever instead...:)
Frank
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Riveting Question
--> RV7-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 12/07 11:54, Brian Meyette wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Brian Meyette"
<brianpublic@starband.net> >
> What's the source of these PART dimple dies you guys are referring
to? > brian > http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
http://www.rivettools.com
And I was mistaken, the rivet set was not free but was discounted when I
purchased my squeezer/rivet set combo. The discount is
still available if you purchase both at the same time.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
While the lever is a nice pinky-finger pull ... the one thing I didn't
really count on his how much those pneumatic squeezers *weigh*. They
get very tiring to hold after a bit. Mind you, I still would not give
mine up for anything, but their is a price to be paid (beyond the $$$
price) for that automatic squeezing power.
For a possible compromise solution (though, again, it is a bit pricy)
you might give the "Main Squeeze" from Cleveland a try. It is a manual
squeezer but with a mechanical system of cams inside to give a lot of
mechanical advantage. My 12yo daughter can squeeze AD3 rivets easily
using that squeezer, and I can squeeze the AD4s without any trouble at
all. I find I reach for it more often than the pneumatic squeezer, and
the bulk of the weight is in the yokes (which interchange with the
pneumatic). See (cut-and-paste if the URL wraps) :
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=SCH22
-- Dwight (who has no affiliation with Cleveland,
except as a satisfied customer ... )
do not archive
On Tue Dec 7 13:15:35 2004, "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" wrote :
>A bit painful for a QB kit, but after a hundred or so hand squeezed
>rivets I find my mind fantasising about pulling a nice pinky finger
>little lever instead...:)
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Another riveting question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
use masking tape, 1.5 inch works here.. get the better type as it is
thicker.. they make some special tape for it but mine
came out exactly like the factory (quick build) once I used the tape, also
be sure and don't set the gun too high..
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Another riveting question
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven a solid rivet
> before. They all came out OK except that the flush rivet set marks the
> skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a scotchbite pad won't
> take out so presumably no big deal?
>
> I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which is a little
> trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around but as the rivets are
> flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the skins?
>
> Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of life?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Another riveting question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Thanks to all who answered...
I'm thinking I may have had the pressure wound up a bit high...I was
running 50psi for the 426's (2X gun) and yes the idea of the rivet set
bouncing would make sense...Thats why the gun moves around...DUH!...I
guess I might have been trying too hard to push back on the rivet with
the bucking bar on my fingertips. It seemed to need quite a bit of force
to form the shop head.
From the wonderful replies I got I assume I need less pressure, both
from the gun and the fingers
Thanks
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of sportpilot
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Another riveting question
--> RV7-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
use masking tape, 1.5 inch works here.. get the better type as it is
thicker.. they make some special tape for it but mine
came out exactly like the factory (quick build) once I used the tape,
also
be sure and don't set the gun too high..
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Another riveting question
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
> <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven a solid rivet
> before. They all came out OK except that the flush rivet set marks the
> skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a scotchbite pad
> won't take out so presumably no big deal?
>
> I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which is a little
> trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around but as the rivets
> are flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the skins?
>
> Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of life?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
<rv8list@yahoogroups.com>, <RV-8@yahoogroups.com>, <rv7-list@matronics.com>,
<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Fuel tank to main skin gap? |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
Fellow builders,
I just placed my finished left fuel tank (RV-7A) on my wing and noticed a gap between
the aft edge of the tank skin and the forward edge of the main skins on
my wing (top and bottom gap equal). I opted to wait to match drill and dimple
the leading edge junction until after sealing the tanks. I have measured the
edge distance of the screw holes in the tank skin and compared this to the center
distance from the nutplate holes (countersinked) to the forward edge of
the main tank skins, both are 5/16". So what this means is that there is a buildup
of tolerances or ProSeal that is pushing the tank forward slightly. I would
say that the gap is approximately 0.040. However the tank to leading edge
junction (at the nose) is pretty much of a perfect match. So the screw holes
in the tank don't line up with the nutplates perfectly. I was generous with
"buttering" the ProSeal on both the "Z" bracket and tank rib aft flanges but
not over generous. I know there is a very thin layer of ProSeal that maybe contributing
to this gap, but not that much. When I built my RV-4 (old school) you
could line everything up without any gaps because you put all the hole. With
the match punched, you can't adjust things at all.
What have other experienced after mounting the tanks.
Paul (RV-4/RV-7A)
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|