Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:03 PM - Re: elevator counterbalance (al.herron@Aerojet.com (Herron, Al))
2. 05:48 PM - Re: elevator counterbalance (Jim Robinette)
3. 06:45 PM - Re: elevator counterbalance (Don Hall)
4. 07:22 PM - Re: elevator counterbalance (Charlie England)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: elevator counterbalance |
--> RV7-List message posted by: al.herron@Aerojet.com (Herron, Al)
I was also surprised at how difficult it was to cut a soft metal like
lead. The problem is that the soft lead loads up the fine teeth of a
blade designed for harder metals and you wind up just polishing the
bottom of the cut. I solved the problem by using a cross-cut hand saw
for wood, took bigger "bites" out of the lead and cleared the chips
better. I just made two cuts, at 90 degrees, to near where the radius
needed to be. Then I used a sharp 1/4-inch wood chisel to cut out the
waste area, and a coarse round file to form the fillet. Kind of brute
force but it worked. In retrospect, a coping saw with a wood-cutting
blade might have been a more elegant solution. A wood-cutting blade in
your band saw at slow speed might also work.
Message 2
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| Subject: | elevator counterbalance |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Jim Robinette" <jim@rvator.net>
Like Al said, I was surprised how difficult it was to cut lead, but
pleasantly surprised how easy it was to countersink the lead. Actually
used my Avery deburr tool and it worked quick and easy.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Herron, Al
Subject: Re: RV7-List: elevator counterbalance
--> RV7-List message posted by: al.herron@Aerojet.com (Herron, Al)
I was also surprised at how difficult it was to cut a soft metal like
lead. The problem is that the soft lead loads up the fine teeth of a
blade designed for harder metals and you wind up just polishing the
bottom of the cut. I solved the problem by using a cross-cut hand saw
for wood, took bigger "bites" out of the lead and cleared the chips
better. I just made two cuts, at 90 degrees, to near where the radius
needed to be. Then I used a sharp 1/4-inch wood chisel to cut out the
waste area, and a coarse round file to form the fillet. Kind of brute
force but it worked. In retrospect, a coping saw with a wood-cutting
blade might have been a more elegant solution. A wood-cutting blade in
your band saw at slow speed might also work.
Message 3
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| Subject: | elevator counterbalance |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Don Hall" <dhall@donka.net>
Well, thanks for all the advice everyone! It's great to not to hear my echo
when I yell for help.
Anyway, I actually made it to the basement tonight without discovering any
more tools I needed, so I guess email fills that gap. I haven't yet added
rat tails or T7's to my growing tool collection, but I did spray the heck
out of my bandsaw with wd40 and what a difference.
No WD40: blade goes for 2 seconds and grabs the lead.
With Wd40: cuts like butter.
I wouldn't call the cut pretty but it somewhat resembles the drawing. I
tried to leave it a little thicker than the drawing.
(The drawing does say that the cut is about what you'd expect to need after
adding paint, so I won't worry that I've cut too much for another 2-3
years...)
***************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 empennage
***************************
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: elevator counterbalance |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Herron, Al wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: al.herron@Aerojet.com (Herron, Al)
>
>I was also surprised at how difficult it was to cut a soft metal like
>lead. The problem is that the soft lead loads up the fine teeth of a
>blade designed for harder metals and you wind up just polishing the
>bottom of the cut. I solved the problem by using a cross-cut hand saw
>for wood, took bigger "bites" out of the lead and cleared the chips
>better. I just made two cuts, at 90 degrees, to near where the radius
>needed to be. Then I used a sharp 1/4-inch wood chisel to cut out the
>waste area, and a coarse round file to form the fillet. Kind of brute
>force but it worked. In retrospect, a coping saw with a wood-cutting
>blade might have been a more elegant solution. A wood-cutting blade in
>your band saw at slow speed might also work.
>
I'm pretty sure no one will like this, but a table saw cuts them like
butter. Just secure it to a wood block big enough to keep your hands
away from the blade & feed it slow. 2 cuts 90 degrees apart & you are
done, with a slab left to put back after you discover you removed too much.
Charlie
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