Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:33 AM - Rudder Trailing Edge (Scott R. Shook)
2. 01:12 PM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (Darrell Reiley)
3. 02:18 PM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (Gerry Filby)
4. 07:50 PM - New engine (flutewitch)
5. 08:10 PM - Re: New engine (Mark Taylor)
6. 08:58 PM - Re: New engine (Norman Younie)
7. 09:22 PM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (Dave Nellis)
8. 10:04 PM - Flap pushrod cutout (Merems)
9. 10:46 PM - SEC: UNCLASSIFIED Re: New engine (Francis, David CMDR)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook@cox.net>
I closed out my rudder on Sunday and riveted the trailing edge without using
Pro-Seal. My TE came out really damn straight and I wanted some input from
other -7 -7A builders.
Vans 'suggests' that you aim for less than .100" or 1/10th of an inch runout
on the TE. My TE came out with .050 or 1/20th of an inch runout (within
Van's suggested specs). I would like to hear from other builders and see
what their results were, please.
I guess what I am asking is could I expect altered flight characteristics
with this amount of runout.
Thanks,
Scott Shook RV-7A
Right Elevator primed and ready to rivet tonight.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
I think you did a great job!
"Scott R. Shook" <sshook@cox.net> wrote:--> RV7-List message posted by: "Scott
R. Shook"
I closed out my rudder on Sunday and riveted the trailing edge without using
Pro-Seal. My TE came out really damn straight and I wanted some input from
other -7 -7A builders.
Vans 'suggests' that you aim for less than .100" or 1/10th of an inch runout
on the TE. My TE came out with .050 or 1/20th of an inch runout (within
Van's suggested specs). I would like to hear from other builders and see
what their results were, please.
I guess what I am asking is could I expect altered flight characteristics
with this amount of runout.
Thanks,
Scott Shook RV-7A
Right Elevator primed and ready to rivet tonight.
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
There was a thread about this a few months ago - so long as the
edge is straight (Van's gives tollerances for that in the
manual) and doesn't have a deflection to the left of right,
you'll be just fine. Apparently the precise shape and
thickness of the trailing edge doesn't have much effect.
g
>
> --> RV7-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley
> <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
>
> I think you did a great job!
>
> "Scott R. Shook" <sshook@cox.net> wrote:--> RV7-List message
> posted by: "Scott R. Shook"
>
> I closed out my rudder on Sunday and riveted the trailing edge
> without using
> Pro-Seal. My TE came out really damn straight and I wanted some
> input from
> other -7 -7A builders.
>
> Vans 'suggests' that you aim for less than .100" or 1/10th of
> an inch runout
> on the TE. My TE came out with .050 or 1/20th of an inch runout (within
> Van's suggested specs). I would like to hear from other builders and see
> what their results were, please.
>
> I guess what I am asking is could I expect altered flight
> characteristics
> with this amount of runout.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Shook RV-7A
> Right Elevator primed and ready to rivet tonight.
>
>
> Darrell Reiley
> Round Rock, Texas
>
> RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
> N622DR (reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 4
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--> RV7-List message posted by: flutewitch <flutewitch@cox.net>
I was wondering if any one has a comment on Aero Sport Power for an engine
or Superior. I know Aero Sport uses Superior parts so why should I go to a
second party rather than by direct from superior. I have a friend who has an
RV 6 with an Aero sport engine and is very happy with it and there service.
But the same engine is less expensive through Superior. In either case I'm
looking at about $26,000.00 so I want to do this right the first time
Thanks Bill RV 7 builder
Message 5
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--> RV7-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
Some have been caught out with Duty importing the engine (back) to the US,
so something to be wary of. Take a look at Mattituck, they have the same
stuff, can use Superior parts, and can do FADEC if you want. I just got mine
last week. check it out at www.4sierratango.com on the firewall forward
page.
Mark.
>From: flutewitch <flutewitch@cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv7-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV7-List: New engine
>Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 22:50:29 -0600
>
>--> RV7-List message posted by: flutewitch <flutewitch@cox.net>
>
>I was wondering if any one has a comment on Aero Sport Power for an engine
>or Superior. I know Aero Sport uses Superior parts so why should I go to a
>second party rather than by direct from superior. I have a friend who has
>an
>RV 6 with an Aero sport engine and is very happy with it and there service.
>But the same engine is less expensive through Superior. In either case I'm
>looking at about $26,000.00 so I want to do this right the first time
>
>Thanks Bill RV 7 builder
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV7-List message posted by: Norman Younie <rv6capt@pacificcoast.net>
You will be very hard pressed to find a better company to deal with. I
have had three engines from them and a fourth ordered. Bart knows his
stuff and won't lead you astray. Ask Jon Johanson about his engines he
has got from Bart.
Cheers
Norman
flutewitch wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: flutewitch <flutewitch@cox.net>
>
>I was wondering if any one has a comment on Aero Sport Power for an engine
>or Superior. I know Aero Sport uses Superior parts so why should I go to a
>second party rather than by direct from superior. I have a friend who has an
>RV 6 with an Aero sport engine and is very happy with it and there service.
>But the same engine is less expensive through Superior. In either case I'm
>looking at about $26,000.00 so I want to do this right the first time
>
>Thanks Bill RV 7 builder
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com>
Scott,
I used an aluminum angle next to the trailing edge
hold it aligned. I did not use proseal. My trailing
edge looks as you have described yours. I may drip a
line of thin epoxy down inside. I don't know if it
will help much. Still debating.
Dave
--- "Scott R. Shook" <sshook@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Scott R. Shook"
> <sshook@cox.net>
>
> I closed out my rudder on Sunday and riveted the
> trailing edge without using
> Pro-Seal. My TE came out really damn straight and I
> wanted some input from
> other -7 -7A builders.
>
> Vans 'suggests' that you aim for less than .100" or
> 1/10th of an inch runout
> on the TE. My TE came out with .050 or 1/20th of an
> inch runout (within
> Van's suggested specs). I would like to hear from
> other builders and see
> what their results were, please.
>
> I guess what I am asking is could I expect altered
> flight characteristics
> with this amount of runout.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Shook RV-7A
> Right Elevator primed and ready to rivet tonight.
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Flap pushrod cutout |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
Fellow builders,
I am preparing my bottom center fuselage skin for riveting and I am trying to determine
the cutout size for the flap pushrod. I have had the side skins on and
I know there is a slot cut in the side skin for the flap pushrod. There is
a 3/32 hole in bottom skin that lines up with this slot. I believe this slot
and hole are to joined/enlarged together to form the slot for the pushrod, however
I can't seem to find the proper reference in the drawings or instructions.
If you can enlighten me I would appreciate it.
Paul
Message 9
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--> RV7-List message posted by: "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Bill,
If your needs will be satisfied by a bog-standard engine then choose a product
from the cheapest source - Superior, ECI, Matituk, or Lycoming.
That said, I am a satisfied Aerosport customer. The only way an independent engine
supplier such as Aerosport can compete with the big dudes is on quality and
response to the customers needs.
In my case Bart sat down with me to figure out my usage profile for the plane -
which is IFR, so my first design priority was reliability, second was performance,
and third was price.
So Bart will pick the best combination of parts from all the various parts makers
to optimise the engine for me.
Worked a treat, a mostly Superior kit, cold induction system (which also means
a aerobatic sump) from Sky Dynamics, Precision fuel injection but with Airflow
Performance injectors, LSE electronic ignition, two B&C alternators, heavy duty
starter.
Hope this helps.
David Francis, Canberra, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]
Subject: RV7-List: New engine
--> RV7-List message posted by: flutewitch <flutewitch@cox.net>
I was wondering if any one has a comment on Aero Sport Power for an engine
or Superior. I know Aero Sport uses Superior parts so why should I go to a
second party rather than by direct from superior. I have a friend who has an
RV 6 with an Aero sport engine and is very happy with it and there service.
But the same engine is less expensive through Superior. In either case I'm
looking at about $26,000.00 so I want to do this right the first time
Thanks Bill RV 7 builder
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