RV7-List Digest Archive

Wed 10/12/05


Total Messages Posted: 2



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:13 PM - Re: J.B. Weld on rudder (Imken)
     2. 03:22 PM - Re: J.B. Weld on rudder (Imken)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:13:53 PM PST US
    From: "Imken" <skikrazi@centurytel.net>
    Subject: J.B. Weld on rudder
    --> RV7-List message posted by: "Imken" <skikrazi@CenturyTel.net> Does sticky stuff on the rudder's trailing edge solve a problem?........beats me. I did not use any sticky stuff either and the trailing edge is straight, strong and looks better than the extra thickness caused by the sticky stuff. .....and for those of us who have painted our RVs, the trailing edge looks good. {;o) Check it out at the LOE fly-in this weekend. Chuck Imken RV-7A N735RV -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gerry Filby Subject: RE: RV7-List: J.B. Weld on rudder --> RV7-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com> Background question ... what problem is all the sticky stuff (Pro-Seal, Silcone goop, epoxy, etc.) solving ? g > > --> RV7-List message posted by: Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com> > > I clamped an aluminum angle to the rudder just inside > of the the trailing edge rivet line. I did not use > Proseal or any other sealant. My rudder is less than > ..050 out of straight. I may smear some Proseal on the > trailing edge before paint just to fill between the > layers. Haven't decided for sure yet. > > Dave Nellis > N410DN (Res.) > > > --- Imken <skikrazi@centurytel.net> wrote: > > > You can, but you don't need to. I, and a few > > others, did not use anything > > except rivets on the trailing edge. If you use > > anything at all, I suggest > > Pro Seal or RTV. JB Weld sets up in 5 minutes-too > > fast. > > Chuck Imken > > N735RV > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On > > Behalf Of Greg C > > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 12:53 PM > > To: rv7-list@matronics.com > > Subject: RV7-List: J.B. Weld on rudder > > > > Hi, > > > > I am wondering if j.b. weld can be used on the > > trailing edge of the rudder. > > > > Thanks, > > Greg > > _____ > > > > songs. Try it free. > > > <http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt6035/*http://music.yahoo.c > > om/unlimited/> > > > > > __________________________________ > > > _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> > > -- __g__ Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com Tel: 415 203 9177


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:22:30 PM PST US
    From: "Imken" <skikrazi@centurytel.net>
    Subject: J.B. Weld on rudder
    --> RV7-List message posted by: "Imken" <skikrazi@CenturyTel.net> I did cleco the trailing edge by clamping an angle and drilling through both angle and trailing edge skin.......and then alternated rivets......factory head, then back-rivet shop head, then factory head. The angle was worth the sacrifice to not have to fool with the Proseal. ....enjoyed enough of that while building the tanks. {;o) Chuck RV-7A N735RV -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway Subject: Re: RV7-List: J.B. Weld on rudder --> RV7-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com> > Background question ... what problem is all the sticky stuff > (Pro-Seal, Silcone goop, epoxy, etc.) solving ? You can't cleco the thing while you rivet it. The proseal keeps everything in alignment while you rivet. I built the RV-10 rudder (same trailing edge as the modern -7/-9 rudder) and had all my rivets oriented the same way. I didn't use any angle or anything like that. Just prosealed it, then riveted it a few days later. It came out perfectly straight, no puckering at the back end either. The key was to take it slowly and go in phases. Partially set every 4th or 5th rivet, then go back and finish them. At the risk of work-hardening the rivets, it prevents bowing, I believe, to go in phases. Heck, that's what the instructions said to do, so why not? I think some people advocate clecoing it to an angle, alternating orientations of rivets, something like that (is that in the RV-7 rudder instructions?). If you use a construction method that allows you to keep it clecoed while you rivet, then I think the goop is not a necessity in the least. Just my take on it. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com




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