Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:16 AM - Re: fuel access plate sealing (Imken)
2. 06:33 AM - Re: Aux Fuel Question (rv-9a-online)
3. 04:46 PM - Re: fuel access plate sealing (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 05:55 PM - RV Tool Kit (b.e.isham)
5. 06:32 PM - Re: Rivet Squeezer (b.e.isham)
Message 1
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| Subject: | fuel access plate sealing |
It all depends on whether one uses the float sender or capacitive sender.
Using float, I would be inclined to use cork AND Proseal. I have seen leaks
at cork only (no Proseal) on different RVs and helped repair a couplenot
fun. I built in capacitive fuel senders.no moving parts like a float
sender. Therefore, I threw the cork away and used pro-seal only. Also, I
did not use Phillips-head screws on the plate (too hard to remove later if
you need to)..used Allen-heads instead just in case I ever have to remove
the plate.
But then, ToEHO,
Chuck Imken
RV-7A
N735RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Hall
Subject: RV7-List: fuel access plate sealing
I'm about to the point of not being able to avoid pro-seal any longer.
I have a question. The directions do not say that it is mandatory to seal
around the cork gasket on the access plate, but that some builders choose
to. I'm thinking of choosing NOT to. I figure I can always change my mind
later, like at least waiting till after fully testing the tank... Once the
plane is built and flying, is opening the access plate ever done for
anything but repair? IOW, not ever for inspection? How many years might a
cork gasket be expected to last? I know automobiles use flimsy cork
gaskets for all sorts of tanks and they work well for a long time assuming
the bolts are all evenly tightened.
Also, the directions for sealing the screws on the access plate just say to
put some sealant on the threads. What's the point of getting the platenut
all gunked with proseal? Seems the only think you're trying to seal at that
point is the circumference of the screw hole. I'm assuming you could just
glob some proseal around the last few threads, near the screw head? I
wouldn't see the point of putting seal on the threads that actually go into
the platenut.
Thoughts?
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 wings
http:\\donka.net\rv7project.html <http://donka.net/rv7project.html>
******************************************
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Aux Fuel Question |
--> RV7-List message posted by: rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
Hi George:
I looked at what Rolly is doing and there is a bit of an engineering
challenge. Although I have no experience with what he is doing, as
always I have an opinion.
I always look at the failure modes... what can go wrong? Electric
transfer pumps can quickly pump a lot of fuel overboard through the main
tank vent lines if not designed properly. A limit switch in the main
tank activated by a float or optical sensor would help... but it's more
complexity. Alternatively, the main tank vent could be passed through
the aux tank.
A 4-way fuel selector is ideal, but expensive, and he'd need to add fuel
level sensors and fuel gauges for the aux tanks to be 'legal'.
The gravity system may seem fine, but I would not want to be on a climb
in this configuration... fuel starvation is an issue because fuel may
tend to back flow from the main tank to the aux tank (note to the
list... this aux tank is a spanwise tubular tank running through the rib
the lightening holes behind the main tank + wing tip tank). You can
have lots of fuel in the aux tank, but since the fuel pickup is 'uphill'
in the main tank during climb, you have a problem. A check valve would
stop back-feed from the main tank, but not help with accessing fuel from
the aux tank during climb. A placard describing the limitations for
take-off and climb attitudes would be useful.
If there is some level of uncertainty, it's quite easy for Rolly to run
a fuel flow test with his setup and some mocked-up fuel lines connecting
the tanks.
Check out this fuel system http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
Thanks, Vern
GMC wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
>
>
> A friend has installed nice tip tanks in a RV-7A he is building,
> however he is having second thoughts about the planned gravity fuel
> transfer method to the main tanks and wonders if he needs to install a
> transfer pump.
>
> He would like feedback from anyone who has auxiliary wingtip tanks
> using a gravity transfer (3/8 lines) to the mains. He is running the
> fuel from tip tanks to cockpit valve then back to main tanks.
>
> Thanks
>
> George in Langley BC
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: fuel access plate sealing |
Don, I agree with Dan on using only proseal. Throw the cork gasket away. Proseal
will not weaken or leak later. Vans should be contacted on this if further
info is felt needed.
Indiana Larry in Evansville, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Checkoway
To: rv7-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, October 28, 2005 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: fuel access plate sealing
The cork alone may eventually leak. Proseal without cork most likely won't.
I used proseal+cork on mine (no leaks after many hours) but next time would just
use proseal. Just my 2 cents.
cork-only + proseal-only + both 3 different opinions you're likely to get.
;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Hall
To: rv7-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, October 28, 2005 9:32 PM
Subject: RV7-List: fuel access plate sealing
I'm about to the point of not being able to avoid pro-seal any longer.
I have a question. The directions do not say that it is mandatory to seal
around the cork gasket on the access plate, but that some builders choose to.
I'm thinking of choosing NOT to. I figure I can always change my mind later,
like at least waiting till after fully testing the tank... Once the plane is
built and flying, is opening the access plate ever done for anything but repair?
IOW, not ever for inspection? How many years might a cork gasket be expected
to last? I know automobiles use flimsy cork gaskets for all sorts of tanks
and they work well for a long time assuming the bolts are all evenly tightened.
Also, the directions for sealing the screws on the access plate just say to
put some sealant on the threads. What's the point of getting the platenut all
gunked with proseal? Seems the only think you're trying to seal at that point
is the circumference of the screw hole. I'm assuming you could just glob some
proseal around the last few threads, near the screw head? I wouldn't see the
point of putting seal on the threads that actually go into the platenut.
Thoughts?
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 wings
http:\\donka.net\rv7project.html
******************************************
Message 4
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--> RV7-List message posted by: "b.e.isham" <b.e.isham@cox.net>
For those who may have missed the September special, PlaneTools.com now has
the DRDT-2 Dimpler as a FREE upgrade on the RV tool kit. This is a great
tool that reflects the quality of the RV tool kit. In addition to the sheet
metal tool kit, mechanic tools are being added. The website address is
HYPERLINK "http://www.planetools.com"http://www.planetools.com
<http://www.planetools.com> Shane Isham
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Squeezer |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "b.e.isham" <b.e.isham@cox.net>
Paul,
The TATCO is really a GREAT hand squeezer both in quality and it is easy to
squeeze, assuming you are only going to hand squeeze. The best option is
the CP-214 or equivelant pneumatic squeezer with a 3-inch C-Yoke and a
4-inch thin nose C-Yoke. You can find both of these at
http://www.planetools.com and in the pneumatic squeezers you can go with a
new CP USA made clone or a rebuilt which will save quite a bit of money.
Shane Isham
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