Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:08 AM - Lasar Ignition Horror Story (Ronald Grover)
2. 11:20 AM - Dynon AOA Pitot tubing conundrum (Gerry Filby)
3. 02:54 PM - Re: Dynon AOA Pitot tubing conundrum (Norman Younie)
4. 03:43 PM - Re: Dynon AOA Pitot tubing conundrum (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
5. 07:22 PM - Tips? Riveting the RV-7/9 side skins to the baggage bulkhead/bottom skin curve (Merems)
6. 07:46 PM - Re: Tips? Riveting the RV-7/9 side skins to the baggage bulkhead/bottom skin curve (DonVS)
7. 07:49 PM - Re: Tips? Riveting the RV-7/9 side skins to the baggage bulkhead/bottom skin curve (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Lasar Ignition Horror Story |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Ronald Grover" <rv8grover@bwdmail.net>
Listers:
If you own or are considering the Lasar Ignition System for your airplane,
read this and beware. Lasar Ignition came on my new Lycoming Engine from the
factory. A screw on the distributor cap backed out of my left magneto and it
took 364 hours of working back and forth to destroy the magneto. Unisons
service manual doesn't even have you look at the points until 500 hours.
After sending him pictures of the Magneto, the Service Representative at
Unison said that it was beyond the warranty period and couldn't possibility
be a manufacturing defect and they wouldn't pay for anything.
This all started with a 300+ mag drop on the Left Magneto. While looking for
the cause of the Mag drop, I removed the ignition lead caps and found the
left magneto distributor cap moving up and down. Danny King and I took the
magneto apart and found that one of the screws on the distributor had backed
out and had been working in the hole in the case. There was plastic, carbon,
and aluminum dust all over in the magneto.
Lessons learned:
Unison doesn't stand behind their top of the line Ignition System.
None of their dealers stock the 4771 magneto meaning minimum of 3 weeks to
get one.
The only way you can get one sooner is say A.O.G. and the distributor can
have it drop shipped from the factory overnight for another $45.
Aircraft Spruce had the lowest price of $601 plus $150 core charge.
I have bought my last Unison Product. If anything else goes wrong with the
Lasar system, I will remove it from the airplane and install P-Mags. A P-Mag
system is less than half the cost of the Lasar system and being a new
company, I'll bet you they would be very interested in a premature failure
of one of their components.
Ron Grover
Message 2
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| Subject: | Dynon AOA Pitot tubing conundrum |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
1.66 HELO_DYNAMIC_DHCP Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (DHCP)
1.28 HELO_DYNAMIC_HCC Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (HCC)
1.36 HELO_DYNAMIC_IPADDR Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (IP
addr 1)
--> RV7-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
Using the Dynon AOA pitot in a Gretz mount, running 1/4 nylon
tubing through the wing to the instrument panel ...
- what type tubing do folks recommend - Spruce lists Nylo-Seal,
Nylaflow, Poly-Flo and Polyurethane.
- what fittings have others used to transition from the 3/16
alum tube on the pitot to the 1/4" nylon tube
- is anyone aware of a good reference for the various fittings
available/appropriate ?
And now for the optional rhetorical whining question ... why
does Van's have you run the pitot tube right next to the spar
so that it slams right into the center section bulkhead ??? It
would make sense just about any place but there.
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon AOA Pitot tubing conundrum |
--> RV7-List message posted by: Norman Younie <rv6capt@pacificcoast.net>
Go to the aviation department of home depot. They have poly-flo or
similar tubing. The unions that they sell will also accept AL tubing for
the transition.
Norman
Gerry Filby wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
>Using the Dynon AOA pitot in a Gretz mount, running 1/4 nylon
>tubing through the wing to the instrument panel ...
>
>- what type tubing do folks recommend - Spruce lists Nylo-Seal,
>Nylaflow, Poly-Flo and Polyurethane.
>
>- what fittings have others used to transition from the 3/16
>alum tube on the pitot to the 1/4" nylon tube
>
>- is anyone aware of a good reference for the various fittings
>available/appropriate ?
>
>And now for the optional rhetorical whining question ... why
>does Van's have you run the pitot tube right next to the spar
>so that it slams right into the center section bulkhead ??? It
>would make sense just about any place but there.
>
>__g__
>
>==========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Dynon AOA Pitot tubing conundrum |
--> RV7-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
The other thing you can do is use "vacuum tubing" This is a relatively
thin walled flexible tube that pushes nicely over the outside of 1/4"
PVC or nylon tubing (probably just right for Alu tube as well, just
havent tried it)...Push it over a good inch and it makes a nice seal.
Its also just the right size to push over 1/4" barbed fittings.
This is a good way to avoid trying to heat up unflexible PVC or nylon
and squeezing over a barbed fitting nwhich never seems to seal right.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Norman Younie
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Dynon AOA Pitot tubing conundrum
--> RV7-List message posted by: Norman Younie <rv6capt@pacificcoast.net>
Go to the aviation department of home depot. They have poly-flo or
similar tubing. The unions that they sell will also accept AL tubing for
the transition.
Norman
Gerry Filby wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
>Using the Dynon AOA pitot in a Gretz mount, running 1/4 nylon tubing
>through the wing to the instrument panel ...
>
>- what type tubing do folks recommend - Spruce lists Nylo-Seal,
>Nylaflow, Poly-Flo and Polyurethane.
>
>- what fittings have others used to transition from the 3/16 alum tube
>on the pitot to the 1/4" nylon tube
>
>- is anyone aware of a good reference for the various fittings
>available/appropriate ?
>
>And now for the optional rhetorical whining question ... why does Van's
>have you run the pitot tube right next to the spar so that it slams
>right into the center section bulkhead ??? It would make sense just
>about any place but there.
>
>__g__
>
>==========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Tips? Riveting the RV-7/9 side skins to the baggage bulkhead/bottom |
skin curve
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
Fellow builders,
I am going to be riveting the side skins on in the next day or so. I am a little
concerned about the 5 or so rivets that attach the side skins to the bulkhead
at the bottom skin of the bulkhead where you form the bend near the F-623 rib.
I have bent the tabs as best I can and I know from experience this could
be on of those areas that you may dent the skin during riveting.
Any tips for riveting this area? How many of you used bind rivets in this area?
Paul
Message 6
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| Subject: | Tips? Riveting the RV-7/9 side skins to the baggage bulkhead/bottom |
skin curve
No blind rivets on mine. No dents in that area either. Don
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Merems
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 7:25 PM
To: rv7-list@matronics.com; RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com;
rv9-list@matronics.com; RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV7-List: Tips? Riveting the RV-7/9 side skins to the baggage
bulkhead/bottom skin curve
Fellow builders,
I am going to be riveting the side skins on in the next day or so. I am a
little concerned about the 5 or so rivets that attach the side skins to the
bulkhead at the bottom skin of the bulkhead where you form the bend near the
F-623 rib. I have bent the tabs as best I can and I know from experience
this could be on of those areas that you may dent the skin during riveting.
Any tips for riveting this area? How many of you used bind rivets in this
area?
Paul
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Tips? Riveting the RV-7/9 side skins to the baggage bulkhead/bottom |
skin curve
What are you worried about exactly, the skin developing "flats" along the curve
of the F-706 bulkhead, or something else?
You obviously already riveted the bottom corners of the tailcone, i.e. at F-707,
F-708, etc. The rivets along the "conical bend" at F-706 (or F-906 in your
case?) are just like the ones you've already shot. The difference is that there's
even more material thickness in this case, so it will only be easier. Keep
the rivet gun stable, don't use too much air pressure (i.e. 30-40 psi), use
a swivel flush set, and this will soon be a distant memory.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Merems
To: rv7-list@matronics.com ; RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com ; rv9-list@matronics.com
; RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 7:25 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Tips? Riveting the RV-7/9 side skins to the baggage bulkhead/bottom
skin curve
Fellow builders,
I am going to be riveting the side skins on in the next day or so. I am a little
concerned about the 5 or so rivets that attach the side skins to the bulkhead
at the bottom skin of the bulkhead where you form the bend near the F-623
rib. I have bent the tabs as best I can and I know from experience this could
be on of those areas that you may dent the skin during riveting.
Any tips for riveting this area? How many of you used bind rivets in this area?
Paul
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