---------------------------------------------------------- RV7-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 11/27/05: 5 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 07:51 AM - Re: Tip-up mounting question (Norman Younie) 2. 08:20 AM - Re: Tip-up mounting question (Dan Checkoway) 3. 08:57 AM - Re: Tip-up mounting question (Norman Younie) 4. 01:04 PM - Re: Cleaning inside of QB Fuselage (Greg Vouga) 5. 01:41 PM - Just A Few More Days Left; Lagging Behind Last Year... (Matt Dralle) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 07:51:57 AM PST US From: Norman Younie Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tip-up mounting question --> RV7-List message posted by: Norman Younie Flute the frame halves as you did the ribs/bulk heads to make them lie flat. Merems wrote: > Fellow Tip-Up builders, > > I am in the process of building the roll bar/frame for my RV-7A. The > frame halves are very warped and the flanges aren't 90 as needed. It > has taken some time to adjust the flanges but the parts are still > warped. I haven't drilled the inner supporting strips yet, that's > tomorrows adventure. > > Anyway I have included a photo of the mounting brackets in there > approximate position and note the interference with the seat back stop > on the top side of the bulkhead (circled area). I believe this is > common, but I haven't seen too many photos of this interference. I am > considering taking a dremel tool and removing the offending material > on the seat back stop. > > What have you done to correct this? Am I the only one (I doubt it)? > > Paul > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 08:20:32 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tip-up mounting question --> RV7-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Sure, flute the flanges on the canopy bow channels, but don't flute the C channels that make up the roll bar. On the cabin frame/roll bar, you do NOT want to flute them. Fluting will prevent the center strip from resting against the flanges. Yes, it'll still work that way, but it's not ideal imho. It takes some work with the hand seamer to get the flanges where you want them, in order to de-warp the C channels enough to make them usable. There will still be a little warp in there when you're done, but the parts can be clamped down to the bench as you drill to the strip, to keep everything as straight as possible. Just my 2 cents, but I wouldn't flute the roll bar channels. And to clarify, I *did* flute the canopy bow channels in a few spots, since they don't mate up with anything on the inside of the flange. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (705 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norman Younie" Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tip-up mounting question > --> RV7-List message posted by: Norman Younie > > Flute the frame halves as you did the ribs/bulk heads to make them lie > flat. > > Merems wrote: > >> Fellow Tip-Up builders, >> I am in the process of building the roll bar/frame for my RV-7A. The >> frame halves are very warped and the flanges aren't 90 as needed. It has >> taken some time to adjust the flanges but the parts are still warped. I >> haven't drilled the inner supporting strips yet, that's tomorrows >> adventure. >> Anyway I have included a photo of the mounting brackets in there >> approximate position and note the interference with the seat back stop on >> the top side of the bulkhead (circled area). I believe this is common, >> but I haven't seen too many photos of this interference. I am >> considering taking a dremel tool and removing the offending material on >> the seat back stop. >> What have you done to correct this? Am I the only one (I doubt it)? >> Paul >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:57:06 AM PST US From: Norman Younie Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tip-up mounting question --> RV7-List message posted by: Norman Younie Sorry for the confusion. I agree with Dann 100% Flute the canopy channel only and clamp the roll over channels to a table top while drilling the flanges to the center strip. Make sure you have radius on the centre strip so that it will lay flat inside the flanges. Dan Checkoway wrote: > --> RV7-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > > Sure, flute the flanges on the canopy bow channels, but don't flute > the C channels that make up the roll bar. On the cabin frame/roll > bar, you do NOT want to flute them. Fluting will prevent the center > strip from resting against the flanges. Yes, it'll still work that > way, but it's not ideal imho. > > It takes some work with the hand seamer to get the flanges where you > want them, in order to de-warp the C channels enough to make them > usable. There will still be a little warp in there when you're done, > but the parts can be clamped down to the bench as you drill to the > strip, to keep everything as straight as possible. > > Just my 2 cents, but I wouldn't flute the roll bar channels. > > And to clarify, I *did* flute the canopy bow channels in a few spots, > since they don't mate up with anything on the inside of the flange. > > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D (705 hours) > http://www.rvproject.com > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norman Younie" > > To: > Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2005 7:51 AM > Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tip-up mounting question > > >> --> RV7-List message posted by: Norman Younie >> >> Flute the frame halves as you did the ribs/bulk heads to make them >> lie flat. >> >> Merems wrote: >> >>> Fellow Tip-Up builders, >>> I am in the process of building the roll bar/frame for my RV-7A. >>> The frame halves are very warped and the flanges aren't 90 as >>> needed. It has taken some time to adjust the flanges but the parts >>> are still warped. I haven't drilled the inner supporting strips >>> yet, that's tomorrows adventure. >>> Anyway I have included a photo of the mounting brackets in there >>> approximate position and note the interference with the seat back >>> stop on the top side of the bulkhead (circled area). I believe this >>> is common, but I haven't seen too many photos of this interference. >>> I am considering taking a dremel tool and removing the offending >>> material on the seat back stop. >>> What have you done to correct this? Am I the only one (I doubt it)? >>> Paul >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 01:04:44 PM PST US From: "Greg Vouga" Subject: RE: RV7-List: Cleaning inside of QB Fuselage --> RV7-List message posted by: "Greg Vouga" Allen, Your ideas on cleaning sound reasonable to me. I just finished painting the interior on my -7A and have a few thoughts for you: - Since you have a rotating stand, paint your fuse upside down and you will avoid some of the trash and overspray settling on your freshly painted surfaces. I painted right side up and had this problem on the bottom surfaces. It will also be easier to see (and paint) areas under the armrests, side rails, etc. - Paint in sections. I would break the areas into at least three areas (Left side, Right side, Bottom) so you don't have to deal with dragging hoses through or leaning into wet paint. I ended up repainting one section a day later and it was so much easier to paint when I wasn't trying to avoid freshly painted sections. - There is a lot of stuff that is added to the fuselage that will also need to be painted. Things like seat backs, access plates (bunches of these), gear mounts (if you want them to match), Instrument Panel, Aft skin (at least the front part). I waited to paint everything until after most stuff was fabricated. I like this approach and would probably do the same next time. - Painted surfaces dont like to be dimpled. I forgot to dimple a couple coles for a nutplate and dimpled after painting. The paint flaked a little around the hole. This may be related to my paint or prep... I dont know. Anyway, I hope some of my experiences (aka screwups) help you out. Happy building. Greg Vouga RV-7A Fuselage >From: "Allen Fulmer" >Reply-To: rv7-list@matronics.com >To: "Rv7-List@Matronics. Com" >Subject: RV7-List: Cleaning inside of QB Fuselage >Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2005 10:46:50 -0600 > >--> RV7-List message posted by: "Allen Fulmer" > >Happy Thanksgiving, > >I have just moved my "completed" slow build wings into my neighbors >basement >and replaced them in the shop with the QB Fuselage that has been waiting >for >my attention for nearly a year now! > >After the trip back from the Philippines, truck trip across country, and >storage for a year in a residential basement, the inside of the fuselage is >a little "grimy". There is no way I could hope to get it "clean" enough >for >me with a rag and some sort of cleaner. > >So my question is: What are some thoughts of the wisdom of moving the QB >Fuselage outside on a bright sunny day and pressure washing the inside? Not >real high pressure washing but the large nozzle designed to apply a soapy >solution at relatively low pressure. I have removed all the various parts >that need to be removed to expose everything. > >I have the fuselage mounted on Jeff Bordelon's rotating fuselage stand >(http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/FuselageStandsForSale.htm} so could maneuver the >thing quite easily. My thinking is that the only thing that might rust are >the plate nuts and if I picked a bright sun shiny day and maybe even used a >leaf blower to facilitate the quick drying out of everything, it would be >okay. > >Would this be a good time to paint the interior? It is already wash primed >by Van of course. > >Thoughts/comments please. > >TIA, > > >Allen Fulmer >RV7 QB Fuse in the shop >Eggenfellner Subaru H6 on order >N808AF reserved >Alexander City, AL >256-329-2001 > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:41:38 PM PST US From: Matt Dralle Subject: RV7-List: Just A Few More Days Left; Lagging Behind Last Year... --> RV7-List message posted by: Matt Dralle Dear Listers, There are just four more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser! Response has been very good, but we are behind last year as far as the number of people that have made a Contribution and as a percentage of the total number of subscribers. Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists and the *only* means I have of keeping these Lists running through your Contributions during this Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft do not archive