Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:20 PM - Rivet removal (J. Brunke)
2. 05:46 PM - Re: Rivet removal (tadsargent)
3. 07:34 PM - Re: Rivet removal (Don Hall)
Message 1
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Dear Listers,
I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some
good replys.
I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes
part of the process.
There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is usually
used in woodworking but I
tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put
together. The multi-master is usually used
for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can lie
flat on a surface and make a cut to
material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a
rivet. I was able to cut through the
shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the rivet.
It was quick and I didn't have to
worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work
well where the hole was dimpled, but
did well on a flat surface.
My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using this
procedure? I welcome any comments.
Thanks,
John Brunke
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet removal |
What ever works for you is the process you should use.
Press on.
Tad
N130TS RV7A
95 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: J. Brunke
To: rv7-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 8:16 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Rivet removal
Dear Listers,
I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some
good replys.
I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes
part of the process.
There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is usually
used in woodworking but I
tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put
together. The multi-master is usually used
for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can lie
flat on a surface and make a cut to
material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a
rivet. I was able to cut through the
shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the
rivet. It was quick and I didn't have to
worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work
well where the hole was dimpled, but
did well on a flat surface.
My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using this
procedure? I welcome any comments.
Thanks,
John Brunke
Message 3
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My brother-in-law (worked at Lockheed) showed me a trick that works pretty
well most of the time for flush rivets. You drill down deep enough that
you've probably drilled out most of the dimpled area, then you can stick a
spare drill bit into the cavity and pop the top of the rivet off. Then it's
easier to drill more accurately straight through the remaining shank without
enlarging the hole too much.
I also recently bought some oops rivets but I haven't used them yet. There
were a few spots on the tail where they would have been used...
Don
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. Brunke
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 8:26 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Rivet removal
Dear Listers,
I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some good
replys.
I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes part of
the process.
There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is usually used
in woodworking but I
tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put together.
The multi-master is usually used
for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can lie flat
on a surface and make a cut to
material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a rivet.
I was able to cut through the
shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the rivet. It
was quick and I didn't have to
worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work well
where the hole was dimpled, but
did well on a flat surface.
My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using this
procedure? I welcome any comments.
Thanks,
John Brunke
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