Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:24 AM - Re: Z-bracket height (again) - Help! (Bob Collins)
2. 07:04 AM - Re: Z-bracket height (again) - Help! (Dan Checkoway)
3. 08:44 PM - Re: Z-bracket height (again) - Help! (Michael D. Cencula)
4. 09:25 PM - Re: Z-bracket height (again) - Help! (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Z-bracket height (again) - Help! |
Boy, I'm kicking myself. Everytime I see one of these (tank gap) things I
post that the problem is the rear spar has sagged. This time I didn't,
figuring this was already a well known fix, but I guess it's not.. It turns
out when it happened to me, Van's had never heard of the fix before but it's
so easy. But, boy, I can sure rememember when it made me CRAZY for a few
hours before I gave the floor jack one and half pumps and "pop" everything
went back into place.
I read on the RV List once where someone filed down their Z brackets to get
it to fix. Too bad. That likely wasn't the problem and I'm unsure of
changing the Z brackets becoming a safety issue.
Pass it on.
Do Not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Z-bracket height (again) - Help! |
The old DWG 12A shows a "jack" supporting the center of the rear spar as the
wing hangs on the stand. It says "REMOVE SAG FROM WING WITH A JACK OR
EQUIVALENT SUPPORT." Lame!
I really wish Van's didn't even show or mention a JACK on the drawing. To
state the obvious at this point, jacks might leak down and retract over
time, and there goes your perfect alignment. Given how long it takes some
builders to build their wings, you really gotta consider something much more
"fixed" in nature that won't vary over a period of time.
Here's what I did instead:
http://rvimg.com/images/2002/20020715_skeleton_on_jig.jpg
It's a piece of threaded rod with a deep hole drilled into a 4x4 base block.
The rod can slide in and out of the hole in the 4x4. With a nut & washer on
each end of the threaded rod, I could fine tune the support height/pressure.
Once it was "locked in," it wasn't going anywhere.
I definitely recommend doing something like that instead of using a jack.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1230 hours)
www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com / www.weighmyplane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Z-bracket height (again) - Help!
>
> Boy, I'm kicking myself. Everytime I see one of these (tank gap) things I
> post that the problem is the rear spar has sagged. This time I didn't,
> figuring this was already a well known fix, but I guess it's not.. It
> turns
> out when it happened to me, Van's had never heard of the fix before but
> it's
> so easy. But, boy, I can sure rememember when it made me CRAZY for a few
> hours before I gave the floor jack one and half pumps and "pop" everything
> went back into place.
>
> I read on the RV List once where someone filed down their Z brackets to
> get
> it to fix. Too bad. That likely wasn't the problem and I'm unsure of
> changing the Z brackets becoming a safety issue.
>
> Pass it on.
>
> Do Not archive
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Z-bracket height (again) - Help! |
Dan,
That's almost exactly what I did, except I added two more of them at the 25%
and 75% spots. My blocks are 2x2 and have 2" long hex bolts threaded into a
tee nut in the bottom end:
http://www.our7a.com/20070320.html
Mike
On Wednesday March 21 2007 10:03 am, Dan Checkoway wrote:
> The old DWG 12A shows a "jack" supporting the center of the rear spar as
> the wing hangs on the stand. It says "REMOVE SAG FROM WING WITH A JACK OR
> EQUIVALENT SUPPORT." Lame!
>
> I really wish Van's didn't even show or mention a JACK on the drawing. To
> state the obvious at this point, jacks might leak down and retract over
> time, and there goes your perfect alignment. Given how long it takes some
> builders to build their wings, you really gotta consider something much
> more "fixed" in nature that won't vary over a period of time.
>
> Here's what I did instead:
> http://rvimg.com/images/2002/20020715_skeleton_on_jig.jpg
>
> It's a piece of threaded rod with a deep hole drilled into a 4x4 base
> block. The rod can slide in and out of the hole in the 4x4. With a nut &
> washer on each end of the threaded rod, I could fine tune the support
> height/pressure. Once it was "locked in," it wasn't going anywhere.
>
> I definitely recommend doing something like that instead of using a jack.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (1230 hours)
> www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com / www.weighmyplane.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
> To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:21 AM
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Z-bracket height (again) - Help!
>
> >
> > Boy, I'm kicking myself. Everytime I see one of these (tank gap) things I
> > post that the problem is the rear spar has sagged. This time I didn't,
> > figuring this was already a well known fix, but I guess it's not.. It
> > turns
> > out when it happened to me, Van's had never heard of the fix before but
> > it's
> > so easy. But, boy, I can sure rememember when it made me CRAZY for a few
> > hours before I gave the floor jack one and half pumps and "pop"
> > everything went back into place.
> >
> > I read on the RV List once where someone filed down their Z brackets to
> > get
> > it to fix. Too bad. That likely wasn't the problem and I'm unsure of
> > changing the Z brackets becoming a safety issue.
> >
> > Pass it on.
> >
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Z-bracket height (again) - Help! |
Way to go Mike. You'll have a nice straight wing, that's for sure.
Straight = Fast ;-)
I want to share a story that's kinda relevant...
Two hangar doors down there's a guy with the fastest "stock" RV-4 I know of.
His hangarmate also started building an RV-4 around the same time he did,
but the hangarmate is still "building" -- although he hasn't touched it for
several years. His wings are still sitting there still unfinished. He says
he managed to inadvertently build a fair amount of twist into one wing, and
I think that's what caused him to take a break.
All that is ho-hum, but he tells an interesting story about how he built
major twist into that wing...
According to his story, he jigged the wing up dead nuts on, perfect. He
dropped plumb bobs from the corners to confirm everything was square, but he
didn't clamp it down right away. Apparently when he finally came back to
clamp it, he found the wing skeleton was out of alignment. So he squared it
up with the plumb bobs and clamped it to the jig. He drilled the skins to
the skeleton.
Later on, he (apparently) ended up discovering that a SPIDER had built a WEB
between the plumb bob and the wing, pulling the string over to the wing and
throwing everything off!
Dunno if I buy it, but I always thought it was an interesting story. ;-)
do not archive
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics@cencula.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Z-bracket height (again) - Help!
> <matronics@cencula.com>
>
> Dan,
>
> That's almost exactly what I did, except I added two more of them at the
> 25%
> and 75% spots. My blocks are 2x2 and have 2" long hex bolts threaded into
> a
> tee nut in the bottom end:
>
> http://www.our7a.com/20070320.html
>
> Mike
>
> On Wednesday March 21 2007 10:03 am, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>> The old DWG 12A shows a "jack" supporting the center of the rear spar as
>> the wing hangs on the stand. It says "REMOVE SAG FROM WING WITH A JACK
>> OR
>> EQUIVALENT SUPPORT." Lame!
>>
>> I really wish Van's didn't even show or mention a JACK on the drawing.
>> To
>> state the obvious at this point, jacks might leak down and retract over
>> time, and there goes your perfect alignment. Given how long it takes
>> some
>> builders to build their wings, you really gotta consider something much
>> more "fixed" in nature that won't vary over a period of time.
>>
>> Here's what I did instead:
>> http://rvimg.com/images/2002/20020715_skeleton_on_jig.jpg
>>
>> It's a piece of threaded rod with a deep hole drilled into a 4x4 base
>> block. The rod can slide in and out of the hole in the 4x4. With a nut &
>> washer on each end of the threaded rod, I could fine tune the support
>> height/pressure. Once it was "locked in," it wasn't going anywhere.
>>
>> I definitely recommend doing something like that instead of using a jack.
>>
>> )_( Dan
>> RV-7 N714D (1230 hours)
>> www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com / www.weighmyplane.com
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>> To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:21 AM
>> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Z-bracket height (again) - Help!
>>
>> > <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>> >
>> > Boy, I'm kicking myself. Everytime I see one of these (tank gap) things
>> > I
>> > post that the problem is the rear spar has sagged. This time I didn't,
>> > figuring this was already a well known fix, but I guess it's not.. It
>> > turns
>> > out when it happened to me, Van's had never heard of the fix before but
>> > it's
>> > so easy. But, boy, I can sure rememember when it made me CRAZY for a
>> > few
>> > hours before I gave the floor jack one and half pumps and "pop"
>> > everything went back into place.
>> >
>> > I read on the RV List once where someone filed down their Z brackets to
>> > get
>> > it to fix. Too bad. That likely wasn't the problem and I'm unsure of
>> > changing the Z brackets becoming a safety issue.
>> >
>> > Pass it on.
>> >
>
>
>
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