Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:31 AM - get a grip (Don Hall)
2. 07:15 AM - Re: get a grip (J. Brunke)
3. 07:52 AM - Re: get a grip (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
4. 08:19 AM - Re: get a grip (Rob Prior)
5. 08:25 AM - Re: get a grip (Dave Cudney)
6. 08:28 AM - Re: get a grip (pwatsonfnp@comcast.net (Paul Watson))
7. 08:45 AM - Re: get a grip ()
8. 08:57 AM - Re: get a grip (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
9. 09:13 AM - Re: get a grip (Jamie Painter)
10. 09:24 AM - Re: get a grip (springcanyon)
11. 09:49 AM - Re: get a grip (David E. Nelson)
12. 09:50 AM - Re: get a grip (Dave Cudney)
13. 09:51 AM - Re: get a grip (Dan Checkoway)
14. 09:59 AM - Re: get a grip (Chris Harris)
15. 10:30 AM - Re: get a grip (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
16. 12:17 PM - Re: get a grip (rikvincent@aol.com)
17. 01:23 PM - Re: get a grip (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
18. 04:04 PM - Re: get a grip (Ted French)
19. 04:58 PM - Re: get a grip (hijacking the thread) (Charlie England)
20. 06:55 PM - PAX Stick (Darrell Reiley)
21. 07:16 PM - Re: get a grip (hijacking the thread) (Streiker, Stephen D.)
22. 07:48 PM - Re: get a grip (Lamar Lawson)
Message 1
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For my rv7 flying, I eventually want to get into light aero and some
formation. It will be equipped for full IFR, but I generally avoid
IFR when I can - maybe using that privilege to bust through some not-
so-low overcast at one end or the other of a trip. So the question
is what buttons do I want on the grip?
So far:
- trim
- ptt
- disc-ap?
- flip-flop on com1?
- flaps?
- I've had one recommendation for starter (which makes me wonder
about a safety on such a switch)
- I've had one recommendation to not put ident on the grip, which is
always nice for ifr
The reason I'm asking is that I know what I'd want for IFR, but I'm
not into formation flying yet, so I don't know how that will change
my needs.
Also, I'm thinking of putting no buttons on the co-pilot grip because
it might stay stowed as often as not. Which begs the question for a
nice location for the co-pilot PTT. I could just put it in the
panel, or maybe on the vertical face of that spar cover. Ideas?
D
Message 2
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Dear Don,
I am building a -7 with the same "missions" in mind. As for the stick, I
am going with the Ray Allen cushioned
grips ( I had these on my six, very comfortable). All my stick will have
is a PTT on it, even for IFR.
Here's my reasoning.
First off, from a wiring standpoint: How many additional wires will have
to be run to the stick to get all these
functions to work? Then we get in to trouble shooting a future problem.
It will take that much longer to
run checks on these systems if more wiring is involved. More wires open up
potential problems due to chafing
and possible bad contacts. Certainly not an insurmountable problem, but a
little more complex.
Now sit in your airplane with your hand on the throttle and reach for the
various switches, knobs and buttons
that you will need to reach for flight. In an RV cockpit there probably
isn't that far of a distance to reach
anything. Trim and flaps can be located close enough to the throttle that
you could probably reach those without
actually taking your hand off the throttle. If you have to tune a radio,
how much trouble is it to reach up and
eventually flip the frequency? The transponder ident is also usually not
that far of a reach. Also how many times
are you asked to ident. Usually in IFR flight you are just passed from
controller to controller. They know you
are coming and don't usually require an ident from you. VFR they usually
do ask for an ident since you are
unexpected traffic.
I guess my thought process is to reduce the complexity of the whole system
and put all your controls
in a logical and convenient place. With all the items you are thinking
about including on your stick, you are
essentially using a system used in jet fighter aircraft. Very high cool
factor, but from the fighter pilots I
have talked to over the years, they have to practice quite a bit to memorize
all the functions located on
their sticks and throttles. Will your switches be different enough for you
to identify them when you need
them?
Lastly there is always that dreaded cost factor.
Hope I've given you some food for thought.
Happy flying
John Brunke
RV7 tip-up in progress
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hall" <dhall@donka.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 7:30 AM
Subject: RV7-List: get a grip
>
> For my rv7 flying, I eventually want to get into light aero and some
> formation. It will be equipped for full IFR, but I generally avoid IFR
> when I can - maybe using that privilege to bust through some not- so-low
> overcast at one end or the other of a trip. So the question is what
> buttons do I want on the grip?
>
> So far:
> - trim
> - ptt
> - disc-ap?
> - flip-flop on com1?
> - flaps?
> - I've had one recommendation for starter (which makes me wonder about a
> safety on such a switch)
> - I've had one recommendation to not put ident on the grip, which is
> always nice for ifr
>
> The reason I'm asking is that I know what I'd want for IFR, but I'm not
> into formation flying yet, so I don't know how that will change my needs.
>
>
> Also, I'm thinking of putting no buttons on the co-pilot grip because it
> might stay stowed as often as not. Which begs the question for a nice
> location for the co-pilot PTT. I could just put it in the panel, or
> maybe on the vertical face of that spar cover. Ideas?
>
>
> D
>
>
>
Message 3
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I must say I went exactly the same way as John's set up. When I see all
the fiddly wires that folks wire into their grips I decided to avoid all
the wires that I could in the grip...So I just have one and have not
found any desire to have more functions on the grip.
Frank 7a IFR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. Brunke
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 7:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: get a grip
Dear Don,
I am building a -7 with the same "missions" in mind. As for the stick,
I
am going with the Ray Allen cushioned
grips ( I had these on my six, very comfortable). All my stick will
have
is a PTT on it, even for IFR.
Here's my reasoning.
First off, from a wiring standpoint: How many additional wires will
have
to be run to the stick to get all these
functions to work? Then we get in to trouble shooting a future
problem.
It will take that much longer to
run checks on these systems if more wiring is involved. More wires open
up potential problems due to chafing and possible bad contacts.
Certainly not an insurmountable problem, but a little more complex.
Now sit in your airplane with your hand on the throttle and reach for
the various switches, knobs and buttons
that you will need to reach for flight. In an RV cockpit there
probably
isn't that far of a distance to reach
anything. Trim and flaps can be located close enough to the throttle
that
you could probably reach those without
actually taking your hand off the throttle. If you have to tune a
radio,
how much trouble is it to reach up and
eventually flip the frequency? The transponder ident is also usually
not
that far of a reach. Also how many times
are you asked to ident. Usually in IFR flight you are just passed from
controller to controller. They know you
are coming and don't usually require an ident from you. VFR they
usually
do ask for an ident since you are
unexpected traffic.
I guess my thought process is to reduce the complexity of the whole
system and put all your controls
in a logical and convenient place. With all the items you are thinking
about including on your stick, you are
essentially using a system used in jet fighter aircraft. Very high
cool
factor, but from the fighter pilots I
have talked to over the years, they have to practice quite a bit to
memorize all the functions located on their sticks and throttles. Will
your switches be different enough for you to identify them when you need
them?
Lastly there is always that dreaded cost factor.
Hope I've given you some food for thought.
Happy flying
John Brunke
RV7 tip-up in progress
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hall" <dhall@donka.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 7:30 AM
Subject: RV7-List: get a grip
>
> For my rv7 flying, I eventually want to get into light aero and some
> formation. It will be equipped for full IFR, but I generally avoid
IFR
> when I can - maybe using that privilege to bust through some not-
so-low
> overcast at one end or the other of a trip. So the question is what
> buttons do I want on the grip?
>
> So far:
> - trim
> - ptt
> - disc-ap?
> - flip-flop on com1?
> - flaps?
> - I've had one recommendation for starter (which makes me wonder
about a
> safety on such a switch)
> - I've had one recommendation to not put ident on the grip, which is
> always nice for ifr
>
> The reason I'm asking is that I know what I'd want for IFR, but I'm
not
> into formation flying yet, so I don't know how that will change my
needs.
>
>
> Also, I'm thinking of putting no buttons on the co-pilot grip because
it
> might stay stowed as often as not. Which begs the question for a
nice
> location for the co-pilot PTT. I could just put it in the panel, or
> maybe on the vertical face of that spar cover. Ideas?
>
>
> D
>
>
>
Message 4
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On 6:30 2007-04-17 Don Hall <dhall@donka.net> wrote:
> For my rv7 flying, I eventually want to get into light aero and some
> formation. It will be equipped for full IFR, but I generally avoid
> IFR when I can - maybe using that privilege to bust through some not-
> so-low overcast at one end or the other of a trip. So the question
> is what buttons do I want on the grip?
For what it's worth, I plan to split the starter between a button on the
stick and a button on the throttle, so you need to push both to engage the
starter, and it guarantees that you'll have one hand on each when starting.
I'm only planning on VFR flight, but this is my plan:
Stick:
Trim (hat switch for aileron and elevator)
Starter (1 of 2)
Smoke on/off
Throttle:
PTT
Flaps (extend, retract)
Starter (2 of 2)
Mind you, I have an ex-military throttle with buttons and levers on it, and
I plan to mount it on a lever between the seats and in front of the spar.
YMMV.
> Also, I'm thinking of putting no buttons on the co-pilot grip because
> it might stay stowed as often as not. Which begs the question for a
> nice location for the co-pilot PTT. I could just put it in the
> panel, or maybe on the vertical face of that spar cover. Ideas?
If your throttle is on the panel, i'd suggest putting the passenger PTT on
the panel next to the throttle. That way, if the passenger is flying, they
have it handy. I've flown an RV-6A that has the passenger PTT on the
panel, in front of the passenger. It's handy if the passenger isn't the
one flying, but if the passenger has the controls, they have to let go of
something and hunt for the button if they want to talk.
-Rob
Message 5
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Don:
I used a CH grip and have trims on the "hat", PTT on the trigger, and
auto disconnect on the left rear button-- this leaves a couple
buttons left over. I put the flap switch just over the throttle;
this allows operation of the flaps and throttle with the same hand w/
o shifting my hand and I never have to look for the flaps. I did not
want to have the flaps on the stick as I reasoned that I might
inadvertently deploy them at a bad time. Plus this arrangement makes
wiring easier and keeps things simpler.
dave
P.S. After i wired it this way, I sat in the garage in the plane
making engine noises, looking at the wall with a picture of the sky
taped on it and it seemed goooood.
On Apr 17, 2007, at 6:30 AM, Don Hall wrote:
>
> For my rv7 flying, I eventually want to get into light aero and
> some formation. It will be equipped for full IFR, but I generally
> avoid IFR when I can - maybe using that privilege to bust through
> some not-so-low overcast at one end or the other of a trip. So the
> question is what buttons do I want on the grip?
>
> So far:
> - trim
> - ptt
> - disc-ap?
> - flip-flop on com1?
> - flaps?
> - I've had one recommendation for starter (which makes me wonder
> about a safety on such a switch)
> - I've had one recommendation to not put ident on the grip, which
> is always nice for ifr
>
> The reason I'm asking is that I know what I'd want for IFR, but I'm
> not into formation flying yet, so I don't know how that will change
> my needs.
>
>
> Also, I'm thinking of putting no buttons on the co-pilot grip
> because it might stay stowed as often as not. Which begs the
> question for a nice location for the co-pilot PTT. I could just
> put it in the panel, or maybe on the vertical face of that spar
> cover. Ideas?
>
>
> D
>
>
Message 6
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Hi Don,
My RV7 is nearly done. I have a full IFR panel and both grips have exactly the
same switches: PTT on the front, electric trim up and down, auto pilot disengage,
and Comm1/Comm2. I have attached pictures of both sticks. My rational for
wiring both was for a safety back up. Both sticks are wired independantly so if
I lost one side the other may still work as a back up. Down side is you cannot
remove the passenger side stick but thats OK with me.
--
Paul Watson
pwatsonfnp@comcast.net
<html><body>
<DIV>
<DIV>Hi Don,</DIV>
<DIV>My RV7 is nearly done. I have a full IFR panel and both grips have exactly
the same switches: PTT on the front, electric trim up and down, auto pilot disengage,
and Comm1/Comm2. I have attached pictures of both sticks. My rational
for wiring both was for a safety back up. Both sticks are wired independantly
so if I lost one side the other may still work as a back up. Down side
is you cannot remove the passenger side stick but thats OK with me. </DIV>
<DIV class=signature id=signature>--<BR>Paul Watson</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:pwatsonfnp@comcast.net" target=_blank>pwatsonfnp@comcast.net</A></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></body></html>
Message 7
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Don,
On my Bonanza I have PTT, auto-pilot mode and disconnect. I find I can get confused
enought with this setup. Seems like I have to hit the engage switch at
least once prior to takeoff so it is on my check list to hit disengage prior to
takeoff.
My 7 will have the same plus the top hat for trim. I agree with having nothing
on the right side for easy removal. I will have a PTT on the right side of the
panel.
Good luck!!
Bill
RV7A - RNM - Finish kit
---- Don Hall <dhall@donka.net> wrote:
>
> For my rv7 flying, I eventually want to get into light aero and some
> formation. It will be equipped for full IFR, but I generally avoid
> IFR when I can - maybe using that privilege to bust through some not-
> so-low overcast at one end or the other of a trip. So the question
> is what buttons do I want on the grip?
>
> So far:
> - trim
> - ptt
> - disc-ap?
> - flip-flop on com1?
> - flaps?
> - I've had one recommendation for starter (which makes me wonder
> about a safety on such a switch)
> - I've had one recommendation to not put ident on the grip, which is
> always nice for ifr
>
> The reason I'm asking is that I know what I'd want for IFR, but I'm
> not into formation flying yet, so I don't know how that will change
> my needs.
>
>
> Also, I'm thinking of putting no buttons on the co-pilot grip because
> it might stay stowed as often as not. Which begs the question for a
> nice location for the co-pilot PTT. I could just put it in the
> panel, or maybe on the vertical face of that spar cover. Ideas?
>
>
> D
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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I took the opposite approach and made it such that the stick was
removable, i.e with the PX PTT on the panel....As I had a
small...cough!.. Incident with the PX coming out while my CFII had the
airplane inverted (I think thats an unusual attitude?) I bolted the
stick in place.
I must say that on our first long cross country the PX bolted in place
was a bit of a pain, primarily cus my Wife likes to navigate (works for
me..:)..) and ther clipboard kept interfering with the stick and she and
the autopilot had to wrestle it out a couple of times while I was
asleep...JK..:)
So I am definatly going to get a removable pin of some sort to allow the
stick to come out.
Frank 7a IFR
________________________________
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Watson
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: get a grip
Hi Don,
My RV7 is nearly done. I have a full IFR panel and both grips have
exactly the same switches: PTT on the front, electric trim up and down,
auto pilot disengage, and Comm1/Comm2. I have attached pictures of both
sticks. My rational for wiring both was for a safety back up. Both
sticks are wired independantly so if I lost one side the other may
still work as a back up. Down side is you cannot remove the passenger
side stick but thats OK with me.
--
Paul Watson
pwatsonfnp@comcast.net
Message 9
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One thing that I think is important in the whole stick wiring debate also is
this...if you just wire trim on the pilot's stick (i.e. no trim on pax stick
or on the panel), and you're using the Ray Allen grips you don't need to
wire in relays -- relays that will eventually fail. The grip switches can
take the amps (only about 1 amp per servo IIRC). This simplifies the stick
wiring considerably. I went with trim & PTT on both sticks and I'm not even
flying yet but if I had to do it again I would take the approach of putting
nothing on the pax stick and putting a PTT button on the panel in front of
the passenger. Easy, simple and no fooling around with wires if one wants
to remove the pax stick.
do not archive
Jamie
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A N622JP
http://rv.jpainter.org
Message 10
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Hi Paul,
Thanks for the info and the photo. I am wiring both stick grips also. I
have a bus-bar at the base of both sticks so I can disconnect the wires and
remove the sticks if necessary. I also bought some nifty little
weather-proof connectors from Mouser that I think would work.
I wish I could say that my RV-7 is almost done. I think Im at least a
year away.
Thanks,
Don Owens
Hi Don,
My RV7 is nearly done. I have a full IFR panel and both grips have exactly
the same switches: PTT on the front, electric trim up and down, auto pilot
disengage, and Comm1/Comm2. I have attached pictures of both sticks. My
rational for wiring both was for a safety back up. Both sticks are wired
independantly so if I lost one side the other may still work as a back up.
Down side is you cannot remove the passenger side stick but thats OK with
me.
--
Paul Watson
pwatsonfnp@comcast.net <mailto:pwatsonfnp@comcast.net>
--
4:43 AM
Message 11
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Hi Frank,
I remember reading about your incident. Talk about remaining calm.
I recall somebody mentioning using Velcro to attach the PX stick by using some
uber glue to attach the loops (or hooks) to the ends of each tube and then
using a wide swath of hooks (or loops) to keep the two together. This opens
the opportunity insert/remove the stick during flights and to use self aligning
contacts w/in the tubes so that switches can be on located on the PX stick -
assuming all contacts are normally open, which I think they are.
Sounds like a good idea - any thoughts?
Regards,
/\/elson
RV-7A - Fuselage now a canoe
Austin, TX
On Tue, 17 Apr 2007, Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
> I took the opposite approach and made it such that the stick was
> removable, i.e with the PX PTT on the panel....As I had a
> small...cough!.. Incident with the PX coming out while my CFII had the
> airplane inverted (I think thats an unusual attitude?) I bolted the
> stick in place.
>
> I must say that on our first long cross country the PX bolted in place
> was a bit of a pain, primarily cus my Wife likes to navigate (works for
> me..:)..) and ther clipboard kept interfering with the stick and she and
> the autopilot had to wrestle it out a couple of times while I was
> asleep...JK..:)
>
> So I am definatly going to get a removable pin of some sort to allow the
> stick to come out.
>
> Frank 7a IFR
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Watson
> Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 8:28 AM
> To: rv7-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: get a grip
>
>
> Hi Don,
> My RV7 is nearly done. I have a full IFR panel and both grips have
> exactly the same switches: PTT on the front, electric trim up and down,
> auto pilot disengage, and Comm1/Comm2. I have attached pictures of both
> sticks. My rational for wiring both was for a safety back up. Both
> sticks are wired independantly so if I lost one side the other may
> still work as a back up. Down side is you cannot remove the passenger
> side stick but thats OK with me.
> --
> Paul Watson
> pwatsonfnp@comcast.net
>
>
--
~~ ** ~~ Research has shown that Mondays account for 1/7th of your time ~~ ** ~~
Message 12
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The more expensive CH unit also does not require relays.
dave
On Apr 17, 2007, at 9:13 AM, Jamie Painter wrote:
> One thing that I think is important in the whole stick wiring
> debate also is this...if you just wire trim on the pilot's stick
> (i.e. no trim on pax stick or on the panel), and you're using the
> Ray Allen grips you don't need to wire in relays -- relays that
> will eventually fail. The grip switches can take the amps (only
> about 1 amp per servo IIRC). This simplifies the stick wiring
> considerably. I went with trim & PTT on both sticks and I'm not
> even flying yet but if I had to do it again I would take the
> approach of putting nothing on the pax stick and putting a PTT
> button on the panel in front of the passenger. Easy, simple and no
> fooling around with wires if one wants to remove the pax stick.
>
> do not archive
> Jamie
>
> --
> Jamie D. Painter
> RV-7A N622JP
> http://rv.jpainter.org
>
>
Message 13
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> the fiddly wires that folks wire into their grips I decided to avoid all
> the wires that I could in the grip...So I just have one and have not
> found any desire to have more functions on the grip.
You must not fly formation very much... ;-)
I'm very happy with my "fiddly" setup, especially in formation.
PTT (trigger)
coolie hat 2-axis trim (top left)
flaps (top right)
flip-flop (top fwd)
HOTAS. Highly functional in formation (35+% of my flying). Your mission
may vary! ;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1249 hours)
www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com
Message 14
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I have a CH stick (and had wonderful service them after a relayed stick
failed - not in flight)
I have trim on the 'hat', PTT on the trigger, A/P disengage on the left top
button and TXP ident on the right.
My passenger PTT is on the right side of the panel, alongside emergency plug
ins for direct tp radio headset.
Chris Harris
RV-7 Flying 10hrs.
(Still making controlled crash landings - no t/d time)
Message 15
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Hey Nelson,
Oh, it was more amusing than anything else..Having a MUCH more
experience pilot in the other seat also provides a calming influence..:)
You know I hadn't thought of using velcro to hold the stick in...Hmm, I
guess I can't see any reason why not, In fact I wonder if one could use
a strip of velcro to hold a pin in place, i.e remove the bolt, sharpen
the threaded end, replace and have a strip of velcro that goes over the
head of the bolt therby holding it into the hole?
I think (purely personally) I would still keep the wiring out of the
stick, my CFI seemed quite happy to use the panel mounted PTT when he
had to explain to ATC that his IFR student had screwed up again!...He
got to use the PTT way more than a PX ever would! I think having
connections in the stick is really asking for intermittent connection
faults and I really can't see the need for a PX stick PTT except for the
"cool" factor.
Cheers
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David E.
Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: get a grip
--> <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi Frank,
I remember reading about your incident. Talk about remaining calm.
I recall somebody mentioning using Velcro to attach the PX stick by
using some uber glue to attach the loops (or hooks) to the ends of each
tube and then using a wide swath of hooks (or loops) to keep the two
together. This opens the opportunity insert/remove the stick during
flights and to use self aligning contacts w/in the tubes so that
switches can be on located on the PX stick - assuming all contacts are
normally open, which I think they are.
Sounds like a good idea - any thoughts?
Regards,
/\/elson
RV-7A - Fuselage now a canoe
Austin, TX
Message 16
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why not put drill a hole in the bolt and just pin it
-----Original Message-----
From: frank.hinde@hp.com
Sent: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 9:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: get a grip
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
Hey Nelson,
Oh, it was more amusing than anything else..Having a MUCH more
experience pilot in the other seat also provides a calming influence..:)
You know I hadn't thought of using velcro to hold the stick in...Hmm, I
guess I can't see any reason why not, In fact I wonder if one could use
a strip of velcro to hold a pin in place, i.e remove the bolt, sharpen
the threaded end, replace and have a strip of velcro that goes over the
head of the bolt therby holding it into the hole?
I think (purely personally) I would still keep the wiring out of the
stick, my CFI seemed quite happy to use the panel mounted PTT when he
had to explain to ATC that his IFR student had screwed up again!...He
got to use the PTT way more than a PX ever would! I think having
connections in the stick is really asking for intermittent connection
faults and I really can't see the need for a PX stick PTT except for the
"cool" factor.
Cheers
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David E.
Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: get a grip
--> <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi Frank,
I remember reading about your incident. Talk about remaining calm.
I recall somebody mentioning using Velcro to attach the PX stick by
using some uber glue to attach the loops (or hooks) to the ends of each
tube and then using a wide swath of hooks (or loops) to keep the two
together. This opens the opportunity insert/remove the stick during
flights and to use self aligning contacts w/in the tubes so that
switches can be on located on the PX stick - assuming all contacts are
normally open, which I think they are.
Sounds like a good idea - any thoughts?
Regards,
/\/elson
RV-7A - Fuselage now a canoe
Austin, TX
________________________________________________________________________
Message 17
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I guess I'm not sure what to pin it with that will enable easy removal
and be SURE it won't pop off/jam the control...
Your thoughts?
________________________________
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rikvincent@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: get a grip
why not put drill a hole in the bolt and just pin it
-----Original Message-----
From: frank.hinde@hp.com
Sent: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 9:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: get a grip
<frank.hinde@hp.com <javascript:parent.ComposeTo("frank.hinde%40hp.com",
"");> >
Hey Nelson,
Message 18
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Take a look at the pictures at the bottom of this page.
http://www3.telus.net/elfrench/rv6%20no4.html
This method does not require a removeable pin or bolt, is always ready to
go, and is secure. Have never had a problem with it.
Ted
Do Not Archive
Ted French C-FXCS
RV-10 flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank George
(Corvallis)
Sent: April 17, 2007 1:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: get a grip
I guess I'm not sure what to pin it with that will enable easy removal and
be SURE it won't pop off/jam the control...
Your thoughts?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rikvincent@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 12:16 PM
To: rv7-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV7-List: get a grip
why not put drill a hole in the bolt and just pin it
-----Original Message-----
From: frank.hinde@hp.com
To: rv7-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 9:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: get a grip
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
Hey Nelson,
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: get a grip (hijacking the thread) |
Speaking of removing the stick:
How many of you have made the pilot-side stick removable, as well?
Having crawled around under the panel of a few other SBS two-seaters in
the past, I can see a distinct advantage to having both sticks removable.
Charlie
Message 20
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Question...
If a person was to bolt a cut down version of the PAX
stick in place as per the SB, to extend say an inch
or so above seat pan, an then put a tight fitted slip
over stick with a removable locking push pin would
this work? Then... install a male fixed plug in the
stub coming up, a fixed female plug the removable
stick for switch options? I know they use this type of
set-up for removable lights on boats. Just an idea...
Darrell
__________________________________________________
Message 21
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| Subject: | get a grip (hijacking the thread) |
A mini DIN connector for both sticks would be a good choice. You can
get a variety of pin configs...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie
England
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: get a grip (hijacking the thread)
<ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Speaking of removing the stick:
How many of you have made the pilot-side stick removable, as well?
Having crawled around under the panel of a few other SBS two-seaters in
the past, I can see a distinct advantage to having both sticks
removable.
Charlie
Message 22
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Don,
Since everyone else is weighing in on the subject, i figure i might as
well throw my two cents in. I posted something similar on the VAF forums
several months ago and somebody wanted to debate with me about my opinion.
I appreciate everyone's views but i like how i have my grips and here is
why.
I am using the CH grips with ptt, com flip, 2 axis trim, auto pilot engage /
disengage. this is going to be on both sides and yes, the copilot stick will
be able to be taken out using a simple connector in the stick for all the
wires. (this is not a new idea, i saw this somewhere else, just dont
remember where)
I went with the CH grips for several reasons.
1) they have the china hat switch as opposed to the buttons on the RA grip
2) they are pre wired!! I have seen two planes built with the RA grips and
the biggest complaint i have heard is wiring the suckers
3) the ch grips sit at an angle which to me is more comfortable in my
opinion.
4) if you get the RA grip with all the buttons like the CH grips, the CH
grips ARE LESS EXPENSIVE!!! at least the price on vans site compared to
what i paid.
5) they are a hard plastic which will hold up to heavy use. the big thing i
do not like about the RA grips is the foam breaks down and gets on your
hands and all over the place,also. after awhile they get hard because they
collect all the junk you have on your hands. Im not a germa-phobe but i do
like the clean feel of the solid plastic as oposed to the foam.
6) i am putting the grips on both sides because i like to fly from both sets
depending on my mood. I am also planning on doing transition training in
the plane and i hate not having trim and ptt while im teaching.
I did place the flap switch next to the throttle so it is accessable from
both seats. that is the only thing im not comfortable having in the grip.
I have accidently hit a flap switch while in IMC, luckly i realized what
happened and pushed the nose down. It scared me pretty good, so no flaps in
the grip.
These are my opinions so take what you like and leave what dont.
Lamar
RV7A - heading out to the garage to finish the puppy!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hall" <dhall@donka.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 8:30 AM
Subject: RV7-List: get a grip
>
> For my rv7 flying, I eventually want to get into light aero and some
> formation. It will be equipped for full IFR, but I generally avoid IFR
> when I can - maybe using that privilege to bust through some not- so-low
> overcast at one end or the other of a trip. So the question is what
> buttons do I want on the grip?
>
> So far:
> - trim
> - ptt
> - disc-ap?
> - flip-flop on com1?
> - flaps?
> - I've had one recommendation for starter (which makes me wonder about a
> safety on such a switch)
> - I've had one recommendation to not put ident on the grip, which is
> always nice for ifr
>
> The reason I'm asking is that I know what I'd want for IFR, but I'm not
> into formation flying yet, so I don't know how that will change my needs.
>
>
> Also, I'm thinking of putting no buttons on the co-pilot grip because it
> might stay stowed as often as not. Which begs the question for a nice
> location for the co-pilot PTT. I could just put it in the panel, or
> maybe on the vertical face of that spar cover. Ideas?
>
>
> D
>
>
>
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