Today's Message Index:
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1. 03:07 PM - Torque Values for Sensors and other not nuts and bolts stuff ? (Bill Schlatterer)
2. 07:59 PM - RV-7 engine/prop options (Charlie England)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Torque Values for Sensors and other not nuts and bolts stuff |
?
Where or how would you find what to torque something like a Oil Temp Sensor?
Big brass fitting, 7/8 socket size into the case just above the oil filter.
Easy enough to get to with a crows foot and extension but how much do you
tighten it? I'm thinking something like 100-125 inch pounds which feels
like enough to flatten the copper gasket?
How about carb and fuel pump fittings ? ( I did find the AN values in the
AC43 but nothing on the "banjo" part,.. Why do they call it a banjo fitting
? )
Is there any kind of rule of thumb for things which don't fall into the nut
and bolt category? How about the synthetic Oil filler tube on an O-360 ?
Takes a 1 1/8 wrench but it would look like you could twist it off if you're
not careful? (Snug, then a little more, and wire it ??
All help appreciated, thanks
Bill S
7a Ark
Wired, cowled, canopied and "engining"
But nowhere near done ;-(
Do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | RV-7 engine/prop options |
I have a couple of questions about engine choices.
If you have used an 'alternative' engine builder to build your
experimental Lyc engine, what was your experience (positive or negative)?
and,
Has anyone on the list used an extended hub Hartzell prop (as needed for
some of the James cowls)? If so, do you feel comfortable doing mild
'RV-acro' with the prop? The model I have available is an HC-F2YR hub
with F7666-4 blades. I'm willing to deal with the cowl issues but I'm
not willing to give up the occasional loop & roll.
Feel free to reply either on or off-list.
Thanks,
Charlie
ceengland@bellsouth.net
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