Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:52 AM - Re: Elevator trim rigging (Rafael)
2. 07:58 AM - Re: Elevator trim rigging (Rafael)
3. 02:06 PM - wing mating (dhall@donka.net)
4. 03:16 PM - Re: wing mating (scott bilinski)
5. 04:54 PM - Re: Elevator trim rigging (Scott R. Shook)
6. 05:24 PM - Re: wing mating (B Tomm)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Elevator trim rigging |
Bevan,
Thanks for your input.
I believe I have the correct type installed.
I also have two sets of horns: one with the provision for either electric or
manual trim, and another for electric trim only.
On the one for either installation, there are two sets of holes. One set,
further from the trim surface, is for the manual trim. The other, closest
to the trim surface, is for electric trim. One is supposed to trim off the
excess material for the electric trim installation.
On the other set of horns, those for electric trim, there is only one set of
holes and no material trimming is necessary. When I compare the set horn
for universal installation with the ones for electric installation only, the
dimensions are the same after trimming the excess material on the dual ones.
Now, if one were to use the manual trim holes on the dual horns in an
electric installation, there would indeed be plenty of clearance for the
rod. This makes me wonder why did Vans make the electric trim horns so much
closer to the trim tab.
Thanks and best regards,
Rafael
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of B Tomm
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 2:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging
Rafael,
My kit came with two sets of aluminum material to make the horn which is
riveted to the trim surface and connects to the rod. One is for manual trim
and one for electric. Are you sure that your using the correct one? I
don't recall having to trim or enlarge the hole for the rod.
Bevan
Rv7A wiring
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 5:22 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging
Hi folks!
I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and
find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate interference
for the full down trim.
I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor
mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening
footprint,
the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought
about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.)
After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but
nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the
max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the
length for no trim at the half-way point.
What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent
the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As you
can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim
further without some reassurance.
Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would
seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the local
grammar ;))
Thanks and best regards,
Rafael
Message 2
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| Subject: | Elevator trim rigging |
Thanks again, John for your suggestion.
I bent the rod a few degrees and that worked very well. It not only gave me
good clearance, but I was also to correct for the slight miss-alignment.
I now have another question: I measure a trim control of 20.6 degrees up
trim max. and 23.2 degrees down trim max. Van's figures, on section 15:
Flight Controls, call for Maximum up/down of 25-35 degrees. That implies to
me that a minimum travel of 50 degrees is necessary. I'm getting 43.8
degrees, so there's no way to meet these numbers. It's all that the motor
actuator will give.
Any comments as to what's going on?
Thanks and regards,
Rafael
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 10:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging
Thanks!
That makes a lot of sense. It's definitely less traumatic than removing al
that aluminum.
I'll try it.
Regards,
Rafael
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. Brunke
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging
Dear Rafael,
I had the same problem, till a more experienced builder told me to put a
bend in the threaded rod.
It will lift it just slightly and should give you a little more breathing
room.
Hope that works for you. Sorry I don't have a photo close by to send.
John Brunke
RV7 in progress
----- Original Message -----
From: Rafael <mailto:rafael@gforcecable.com>
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 6:22 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging
Hi folks!
I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and
find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate interference
for the full down trim.
I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor
mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening
footprint,
the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought
about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.)
After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but
nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the
max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the
length for no trim at the half-way point.
What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent
the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As you
can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim
further without some reassurance.
Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would
seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the local
grammar ;))
Thanks and best regards,
Rafael
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV7-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 3
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Having some doubt on getting the wings aligned.
I've got the wings in place with drift pins.
- i carefully leveled the fuse, longitudally and laterally.
- I suspended 3 plumb bobs each wing, out/mid/in.
- I stretched a line between the outboard bobs. The other 4 bobs were
behind the line. Suggests forward sweep.
- I restretched the line between the inboard bobs. The outboard bobs
were about 1/8-1/4" forward. Also suggests forward sweep.
This suggests I have forward sweep.
The problem is that I can't nudge the wings to take out the sweep. I
have two issues:
a) The rear spar is snug against the fuse, mostly interfering with the
round head rivet just above the attach point.
b) The flap is already very snug to the fuse.
In order to take as much as 1/4" sweep out, I calculated that I need
between 1/16" and 1/32" movement on the rear spar. Minor trimming
around the rivet and the inside edge of the spar would give me the
movement I need, but the flap fit is already so snug, nearly perfect, so
there's doubt. If I move the wing to take out fwd sweep, It looks like
I'll have to do some minor reshaping of the flap to avoid interference
with the fuse.
Questions:
- Anybody else find similar rivet or flap interference?
- Is it normal to have to tweak the flap fit along the fuse?
- Should I also be concerned about having to trim the rear spar?
Thought I was precise on the original cut, but I guess I could have been
off by a hair.
Man, it was a bear to get the wings in. I don't relish the thought of
taking them in/out for trimming and tweaking...
Don
Message 4
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Install the wings with out the flaps and then trim the flaps to fit.......W
orked great for me.......what do the instructions say?=0A=0AAlso a picture
is worth a thousand words, and its been a few years so I dont remember any
rivet problems.=0A =0AScott Bilinski=0ARV-8a=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Orig
inal Message ----=0AFrom: "dhall@donka.net" <dhall@donka.net>=0ATo: rv7-lis
t@matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, August 4, 2007 2:05:40 PM=0ASubject: RV7-
=0A=0AHaving some doubt on getting the wings aligned.=0A=0AI've got the win
gs in place with drift pins. =0A- i carefully leveled the fuse, longitudal
ly and laterally.=0A- I suspended 3 plumb bobs each wing, out/mid/in.=0A- I
stretched a line between the outboard bobs. The other 4 bobs were=0Abehin
d the line. Suggests forward sweep.=0A- I restretched the line between the
inboard bobs. The outboard bobs=0Awere about 1/8-1/4" forward. Also sugge
sts forward sweep.=0AThis suggests I have forward sweep. =0A=0AThe problem
is that I can't nudge the wings to take out the sweep. I=0Ahave two issue
s:=0Aa) The rear spar is snug against the fuse, mostly interfering with the
=0Around head rivet just above the attach point.=0Ab) The flap is already v
ery snug to the fuse. =0A=0AIn order to take as much as 1/4" sweep out, I
calculated that I need=0Abetween 1/16" and 1/32" movement on the rear spar.
Minor trimming=0Aaround the rivet and the inside edge of the spar would g
ive me the=0Amovement I need, but the flap fit is already so snug, nearly p
erfect, so=0Athere's doubt. If I move the wing to take out fwd sweep, It lo
oks like=0AI'll have to do some minor reshaping of the flap to avoid interf
erence=0Awith the fuse.=0A=0AQuestions:=0A- Anybody else find similar rivet
or flap interference?=0A- Is it normal to have to tweak the flap fit along
the fuse?=0A- Should I also be concerned about having to trim the rear spa
r? =0AThought I was precise on the original cut, but I guess I could have b
een=0Aoff by a hair. =0A=0AMan, it was a bear to get the wings in. I don'
t relish the thought of=0Ataking them in/out for trimming and tweaking...
======0A=0A=0A =0A_________________________________________
___________________________________________=0ALooking for a deal? Find grea
t prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.=0Ahttp://farechase.ya
hoo.com/
Message 5
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| Subject: | Elevator trim rigging |
I had the same question when I was working on my Elevators. I believe
somewhere in the electric trim instructions it does say that you can put a
bend in the threaded rod.
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 17:22
Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging
Hi folks!
I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and
find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate interference
for the full down trim.
I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor
mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening
footprint,
the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought
about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.)
After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but
nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the
max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the
length for no trim at the half-way point.
What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent
the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As you
can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim
further without some reassurance.
Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would
seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the local
grammar ;))
Thanks and best regards,
Rafael
Message 6
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Don,
I agree with Scott.
Also, double check with the plans and call Van's if there are still
questions. This is an important step. Primarily due to minimum edge
distance requirements on the rear spar. I seem to recall that some sweep
forward or aft (1/2'?) is permitted but not sure and I wanted to try and get
them perfect. So....
Assuming minimum edge distances are complied with, I trimmed to minimize the
sweep. I was able to bet the sweep to be zero. Originally I had left the
rear spars slightly long (about 1/16 as I recall). I then trimmed this to
clear a rivet head.
Five plum bobs worked for me. One from the tail area, one inboard, one
outboard on each wing, all hanging at the same time. (I drilled a 3/32 hole
in the center of the fuse near the last bulkhead to make a convenient place
to drop a plumb line from). I snapped a line on the floor under the wings
the full length of the wingspan. I then pulled each wing (only had to do
one) to get all the plumb bobs to point to the center of the line. The
outboard bobs hung from the last rivet line. This was important because
where these bobs intersected the snapped line, I made a mark on the floor.
I then measured with a long tape to the bob hanging in the tail. When the
left and right triangulations agreed, I knew I had no sweep and straight
wings.
This was on a RV7A but I think it would be the same on a 8.
Good luck
Bevan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dhall@donka.net
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 2:06 PM
Subject: RV7-List: wing mating
Having some doubt on getting the wings aligned.
I've got the wings in place with drift pins.
- i carefully leveled the fuse, longitudally and laterally.
- I suspended 3 plumb bobs each wing, out/mid/in.
- I stretched a line between the outboard bobs. The other 4 bobs were
behind the line. Suggests forward sweep.
- I restretched the line between the inboard bobs. The outboard bobs were
about 1/8-1/4" forward. Also suggests forward sweep.
This suggests I have forward sweep.
The problem is that I can't nudge the wings to take out the sweep. I have
two issues:
a) The rear spar is snug against the fuse, mostly interfering with the
round head rivet just above the attach point.
b) The flap is already very snug to the fuse.
In order to take as much as 1/4" sweep out, I calculated that I need between
1/16" and 1/32" movement on the rear spar. Minor trimming around the rivet
and the inside edge of the spar would give me the movement I need, but the
flap fit is already so snug, nearly perfect, so there's doubt. If I move the
wing to take out fwd sweep, It looks like I'll have to do some minor
reshaping of the flap to avoid interference with the fuse.
Questions:
- Anybody else find similar rivet or flap interference?
- Is it normal to have to tweak the flap fit along the fuse?
- Should I also be concerned about having to trim the rear spar?
Thought I was precise on the original cut, but I guess I could have been off
by a hair.
Man, it was a bear to get the wings in. I don't relish the thought of
taking them in/out for trimming and tweaking...
Don
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