Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:44 AM - Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer (Andrew Phillips)
2. 07:48 AM - Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer (rikvincent@aol.com)
3. 08:27 AM - Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer (Andrew Phillips)
4. 05:58 PM - Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer (Bill Schlatterer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer |
The exact same thing happened to me. On van's recommendation I did
exactly what you are planning to do. I filled the back side of the
cowl nose the sanded it. What a pain!
Andrew Phillips
On 11-Mar-08, at 10:41 PM, Bill Schlatterer wrote:
>
> I have a problem with the Spinner gap caused by using the Vans 2.25
> spacer recommendation instead of waiting on the prop. First let me
> say that I think the spacer method would have worked fine BUT it
> should have been 2 1/16 instead of 2 1/4. I am fitting a Hartzell
> BA to an O-360 AIA and it just doesn't work. I used the 1/4 inch
> metal spacer and one washer under the spinner plate per plans.
>
> The first picture shows the spinner spacer which was three pieces of
> good plywood cut accordingly with a couple of nickels for additional
> space. That gave me a 2.230" spacer. I fitted the cowl which was a
> little tight at the top and a little wide at the bottom. The faces
> of the top and bottom cowl are not actually parallel. My plan was
> to build up the inside back of the top cowl face and the outside of
> the bottom face and then shave it parallel with the spinner plate to
> make a perfect 1/4. In the second picture with no prop and spacer,
> the clearance at the top is a little under 1/4 and maybe 3/8 at the
> bottom.
>
> Third picture. Now comes the prop and with nothing different,=85.the
> gap closed to 0 at the top and 1/4 at the bottom. No doubt about
> it, the spacer was simply too long. It should have been no more
> that 2 1/8 to 2 1/16 to leave a little fill room. 2.00 might be
> perfect if you plan to true up the face later. It the spacer is too
> long, it causes you to fit the cowl further out from the firewall
> than it should be.
>
> Here is where I would ask for an opinion on my fix.
>
> I don't want to recut the hinges and try to move it around so I am
> thinking that I will build up the top cowl face from the inside with
> epoxy and long hair flox about 3/8 of an inch and then simply sand
> off/back 1/4 inch off the top half of the cowl and square it up
> with the spinner plate. In the third picture, you can see marks
> that would be a 1/4 inch gap. (effectively just sand back to those
> lines)
>
> The bottom is about right now but needs to be trued up a bit with
> some build on the outside and then the whole cowl face fitted
> parallel to the spinner. This doesn't seem like nearly as much
> work as cutting the whole face off, trimming, and then glassing
> back. Other than taking a little patience, I can't see any reason
> why it won=92t work. I don't have a lot of glass experience yet but I
> think the epoxy / long hair / layer of glass on the inside should be
> as strong as the original when it's sanded back a 1/4. The last
> picture shows how much needs to come off on the top. ( 1/4 inch
> paint paddle)
>
> Comments please.
>
> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>>
>
> Thanks for any help?
>
> Bill Schlatterer
> 7a ARK
>
> <100_4358.jpg><100_4359.jpg><100_4401.jpg><100_4423.jpg>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer |
How about shimming with washer the motor mount at the firewall.
Rick RV 6
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Schlatterer <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 6:41 pm
Subject: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer
I have a problem with the Spinner gap caused by using the Vans 2.25 spacer r
ecommendation instead of waiting on the prop.=C2- First let me say that I
think the spacer method would have worked fine BUT it should have been 2 1/1
6 instead of 2 1/4.=C2- I am fitting a Hartzell BA to an O-360 AIA and it
just doesn't work.=C2- I used the 1/4 inch metal spacer and one washer und
er the spinner plate per plans.
The first picture shows the spinner spacer which was three pieces of good pl
ywood cut accordingly with a couple of nickels for additional space.=C2- T
hat gave me a 2.230" spacer.=C2- I fitted the cowl which was a little tigh
t at the top and a little wide at the bottom.=C2- The faces of the top and
bottom cowl are not actually parallel.=C2- My plan was to build up the in
side back of the top cowl face and the outside of the bottom face and then s
have it parallel with the spinner plate to make a perfect 1/4.=C2-=C2- I
n the second picture with no prop and spacer, the clearance at the top is a
little under 1/4 and maybe 3/8 at the bottom.
Third picture.=C2-=C2- Now comes the prop and with nothing different,
.the gap closed to 0 at the top and 1/4 at the bottom.=C2- No dou
bt about it, the spacer was simply too long.=C2- It should have been no mo
re that 2 1/8 to 2 1/16 to leave a little fill room.=C2- 2.00 might be per
fect if you plan to true up the face later.=C2- It the spacer is too long,
it causes you to fit the cowl further out from the firewall than it should
be.
Here is where I would ask for an opinion on my fix.
I don't want to recut the hinges and try to move it around so I am thinking
that I will build up the top cowl face from the inside with epoxy and long h
air flox about 3/8 of an inch and then simply sand off/back=C2- 1/4 inch o
ff the top half of the cowl and square it up with the spinner plate.=C2- I
n the third picture, you can see marks that would be a 1/4 inch gap. (effect
ively just sand back to those lines)
The bottom is about right now but needs to be trued up a bit with some build
on the outside and then the whole cowl face fitted parallel to the spinner.
=C2-=C2- This doesn't seem like nearly as much work as cutting the whole
face off, trimming, and then glassing back.=C2- Other than taking a littl
e patience, I can't see any reason why it won=99t work.=C2- I don't
have a lot of glass experience yet but I think the epoxy / long hair / layer
of glass on the inside should be as strong as the original when it's sanded
back a 1/4.=C2- The last picture shows how much needs to come off on the
top. ( 1/4=C2- inch paint paddle)
Comments please.
<<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>>
Thanks for any help?
Bill Schlatterer
7a ARK
[Image Removed]
[Image Removed]
[Image Removed]
[Image Removed]
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer |
As mentioned in my last reply, I did the fiberglass work on the basis
of Van's recommendation. I also did the shim trick. I added 1 washer
under each mount so that gave me 1/16" or so then I had less to remove
from the cowl. Van's cautioned me from doing to much spacing at the
motor mount.
Andrew
On 12-Mar-08, at 10:44 AM, rikvincent@aol.com wrote:
> How about shimming with washer the motor mount at the firewall.
> Rick RV 6
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Schlatterer <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
> To: RV7A@yahoogroups.com; rv-list@matronics.com; rv7-
> list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 6:41 pm
> Subject: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer
>
>
> I have a problem with the Spinner gap caused by using the Vans 2.25
> spacer recommendation instead of waiting on the prop. First let me
> say that I think the spacer method would have worked fine BUT it
> should have been 2 1/16 instead of 2 1/4. I am fitting a Hartzell
> BA to an O-360 AIA and it just doesn't work. I used the 1/4 inch
> metal spacer and one washer under the spinner plate per plans.
> The first picture shows the spinner spacer which was three pieces of
> good plywood cut accordingly with a couple of nickels for additional
> space. That gave me a 2.230" spacer. I fitted the cowl which was a
> little tight at the top and a little wide at the bottom. The faces
> of the top and bottom cowl are not actually parallel. My plan was
> to build up the inside back of the top cowl face and the outside of
> the bottom face and then shave it parallel with the spinner plate to
> make a perfect 1/4. In the second picture with no prop and spacer,
> the clearance at the top is a little under 1/4 and maybe 3/8 at the
> bottom.
> Third picture. Now comes the prop and with nothing different,=85.the
> gap closed to 0 at the top and 1/4 at the bottom. No doubt about
> it, the spacer was simply too long. It should have been no more
> that 2 1/8 to 2 1/16 to leave a little fill room. 2.00 might be
> perfect if you plan to true up the face later. It the spacer is too
> long, it causes you to fit the cowl further out from the firewall
> than it should be.
> Here is where I would ask for an opinion on my fix.
> I don't want to recut the hinges and try to move it around so I am
> thinking that I will build up the top cowl face from the inside with
> epoxy and long hair flox about 3/8 of an inch and then simply sand
> off/back 1/4 inch off the top half of the cowl and square it up
> with the spinner plate. In the third picture, you can see marks
> that would be a 1/4 inch gap. (effectively just sand back to those
> lines)
> The bottom is about right now but needs to be trued up a bit with
> some build on the outside and then the whole cowl face fitted
> parallel to the spinner. This doesn't seem like nearly as much
> work as cutting the whole face off, trimming, and then glassing
> back. Other than taking a little patience, I can't see any reason
> why it won=92t work. I don't have a lot of glass experience yet but I
> think the epoxy / long hair / layer of glass on the inside should be
> as strong as the original when it's sanded back a 1/4. The last
> picture shows how much needs to come off on the top. ( 1/4 inch
> paint paddle)
> Comments please.
> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>>
> Thanks for any help?
> Bill Schlatterer
> 7a ARK
>
> [Image Removed]
> [Image Removed]
> [Image Removed]
> [Image Removed]
> Supercharge your AIM. Get the AIM toolbar for your browser.
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer |
I should have checked the list before I started but the instructions were so
clear, it just never occurred to me that they would be that far off. Either
way, it looks like I have some "fitting" work to do. The shim at the
firewall Rick mentioned would be a help and probably no significant impact
on the CG. Did you use layers of glass or epoxy flox combination? Someone
mentioned that the epoxy/flox was a lot harder to work.
Thanks Bill S
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Phillips
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer
As mentioned in my last reply, I did the fiberglass work on the basis of
Van's recommendation. I also did the shim trick. I added 1 washer under each
mount so that gave me 1/16" or so then I had less to remove from the cowl.
Van's cautioned me from doing to much spacing at the motor mount.
Andrew
On 12-Mar-08, at 10:44 AM, rikvincent@aol.com wrote:
How about shimming with washer the motor mount at the firewall.
Rick RV 6
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Schlatterer <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 6:41 pm
Subject: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer
I have a problem with the Spinner gap caused by using the Vans 2.25 spacer
recommendation instead of waiting on the prop. First let me say that I
think the spacer method would have worked fine BUT it should have been 2
1/16 instead of 2 1/4. I am fitting a Hartzell BA to an O-360 AIA and it
just doesn't work. I used the 1/4 inch metal spacer and one washer under
the spinner plate per plans.
The first picture shows the spinner spacer which was three pieces of good
plywood cut accordingly with a couple of nickels for additional space. That
gave me a 2.230" spacer. I fitted the cowl which was a little tight at the
top and a little wide at the bottom. The faces of the top and bottom cowl
are not actually parallel. My plan was to build up the inside back of the
top cowl face and the outside of the bottom face and then shave it parallel
with the spinner plate to make a perfect 1/4. In the second picture with
no prop and spacer, the clearance at the top is a little under 1/4 and maybe
3/8 at the bottom.
Third picture. Now comes the prop and with nothing different,..the gap
closed to 0 at the top and 1/4 at the bottom. No doubt about it, the spacer
was simply too long. It should have been no more that 2 1/8 to 2 1/16 to
leave a little fill room. 2.00 might be perfect if you plan to true up the
face later. It the spacer is too long, it causes you to fit the cowl
further out from the firewall than it should be.
Here is where I would ask for an opinion on my fix.
I don't want to recut the hinges and try to move it around so I am thinking
that I will build up the top cowl face from the inside with epoxy and long
hair flox about 3/8 of an inch and then simply sand off/back 1/4 inch off
the top half of the cowl and square it up with the spinner plate. In the
third picture, you can see marks that would be a 1/4 inch gap. (effectively
just sand back to those lines)
The bottom is about right now but needs to be trued up a bit with some build
on the outside and then the whole cowl face fitted parallel to the spinner.
This doesn't seem like nearly as much work as cutting the whole face off,
trimming, and then glassing back. Other than taking a little patience, I
can't see any reason why it won't work. I don't have a lot of glass
experience yet but I think the epoxy / long hair / layer of glass on the
inside should be as strong as the original when it's sanded back a 1/4. The
last picture shows how much needs to come off on the top. ( 1/4 inch paint
paddle)
Comments please.
<<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>>
Thanks for any help?
Bill Schlatterer
7a ARK
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