---------------------------------------------------------- RV7-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 03/12/08: 4 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:44 AM - Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer (Andrew Phillips) 2. 07:48 AM - Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer (rikvincent@aol.com) 3. 08:27 AM - Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer (Andrew Phillips) 4. 05:58 PM - Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer (Bill Schlatterer) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:44:32 AM PST US From: Andrew Phillips Subject: Re: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer The exact same thing happened to me. On van's recommendation I did exactly what you are planning to do. I filled the back side of the cowl nose the sanded it. What a pain! Andrew Phillips On 11-Mar-08, at 10:41 PM, Bill Schlatterer wrote: > > I have a problem with the Spinner gap caused by using the Vans 2.25 > spacer recommendation instead of waiting on the prop. First let me > say that I think the spacer method would have worked fine BUT it > should have been 2 1/16 instead of 2 1/4. I am fitting a Hartzell > BA to an O-360 AIA and it just doesn't work. I used the 1/4 inch > metal spacer and one washer under the spinner plate per plans. > > The first picture shows the spinner spacer which was three pieces of > good plywood cut accordingly with a couple of nickels for additional > space. That gave me a 2.230" spacer. I fitted the cowl which was a > little tight at the top and a little wide at the bottom. The faces > of the top and bottom cowl are not actually parallel. My plan was > to build up the inside back of the top cowl face and the outside of > the bottom face and then shave it parallel with the spinner plate to > make a perfect 1/4. In the second picture with no prop and spacer, > the clearance at the top is a little under 1/4 and maybe 3/8 at the > bottom. > > Third picture. Now comes the prop and with nothing different,=85.the > gap closed to 0 at the top and 1/4 at the bottom. No doubt about > it, the spacer was simply too long. It should have been no more > that 2 1/8 to 2 1/16 to leave a little fill room. 2.00 might be > perfect if you plan to true up the face later. It the spacer is too > long, it causes you to fit the cowl further out from the firewall > than it should be. > > Here is where I would ask for an opinion on my fix. > > I don't want to recut the hinges and try to move it around so I am > thinking that I will build up the top cowl face from the inside with > epoxy and long hair flox about 3/8 of an inch and then simply sand > off/back 1/4 inch off the top half of the cowl and square it up > with the spinner plate. In the third picture, you can see marks > that would be a 1/4 inch gap. (effectively just sand back to those > lines) > > The bottom is about right now but needs to be trued up a bit with > some build on the outside and then the whole cowl face fitted > parallel to the spinner. This doesn't seem like nearly as much > work as cutting the whole face off, trimming, and then glassing > back. Other than taking a little patience, I can't see any reason > why it won=92t work. I don't have a lot of glass experience yet but I > think the epoxy / long hair / layer of glass on the inside should be > as strong as the original when it's sanded back a 1/4. The last > picture shows how much needs to come off on the top. ( 1/4 inch > paint paddle) > > Comments please. > > <<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>> > > Thanks for any help? > > Bill Schlatterer > 7a ARK > > <100_4358.jpg><100_4359.jpg><100_4401.jpg><100_4423.jpg> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:48:09 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer From: rikvincent@aol.com How about shimming with washer the motor mount at the firewall. Rick RV 6 -----Original Message----- From: Bill Schlatterer Sent: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 6:41 pm Subject: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer I have a problem with the Spinner gap caused by using the Vans 2.25 spacer r ecommendation instead of waiting on the prop.=C2- First let me say that I think the spacer method would have worked fine BUT it should have been 2 1/1 6 instead of 2 1/4.=C2- I am fitting a Hartzell BA to an O-360 AIA and it just doesn't work.=C2- I used the 1/4 inch metal spacer and one washer und er the spinner plate per plans. The first picture shows the spinner spacer which was three pieces of good pl ywood cut accordingly with a couple of nickels for additional space.=C2- T hat gave me a 2.230" spacer.=C2- I fitted the cowl which was a little tigh t at the top and a little wide at the bottom.=C2- The faces of the top and bottom cowl are not actually parallel.=C2- My plan was to build up the in side back of the top cowl face and the outside of the bottom face and then s have it parallel with the spinner plate to make a perfect 1/4.=C2-=C2- I n the second picture with no prop and spacer, the clearance at the top is a little under 1/4 and maybe 3/8 at the bottom. Third picture.=C2-=C2- Now comes the prop and with nothing different, .the gap closed to 0 at the top and 1/4 at the bottom.=C2- No dou bt about it, the spacer was simply too long.=C2- It should have been no mo re that 2 1/8 to 2 1/16 to leave a little fill room.=C2- 2.00 might be per fect if you plan to true up the face later.=C2- It the spacer is too long, it causes you to fit the cowl further out from the firewall than it should be. Here is where I would ask for an opinion on my fix. I don't want to recut the hinges and try to move it around so I am thinking that I will build up the top cowl face from the inside with epoxy and long h air flox about 3/8 of an inch and then simply sand off/back=C2- 1/4 inch o ff the top half of the cowl and square it up with the spinner plate.=C2- I n the third picture, you can see marks that would be a 1/4 inch gap. (effect ively just sand back to those lines) The bottom is about right now but needs to be trued up a bit with some build on the outside and then the whole cowl face fitted parallel to the spinner. =C2-=C2- This doesn't seem like nearly as much work as cutting the whole face off, trimming, and then glassing back.=C2- Other than taking a littl e patience, I can't see any reason why it won=99t work.=C2- I don't have a lot of glass experience yet but I think the epoxy / long hair / layer of glass on the inside should be as strong as the original when it's sanded back a 1/4.=C2- The last picture shows how much needs to come off on the top. ( 1/4=C2- inch paint paddle) Comments please. <<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>> Thanks for any help? Bill Schlatterer 7a ARK [Image Removed] [Image Removed] [Image Removed] [Image Removed] ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:27:03 AM PST US From: Andrew Phillips Subject: Re: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer As mentioned in my last reply, I did the fiberglass work on the basis of Van's recommendation. I also did the shim trick. I added 1 washer under each mount so that gave me 1/16" or so then I had less to remove from the cowl. Van's cautioned me from doing to much spacing at the motor mount. Andrew On 12-Mar-08, at 10:44 AM, rikvincent@aol.com wrote: > How about shimming with washer the motor mount at the firewall. > Rick RV 6 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Schlatterer > To: RV7A@yahoogroups.com; rv-list@matronics.com; rv7- > list@matronics.com > Sent: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 6:41 pm > Subject: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer > > > I have a problem with the Spinner gap caused by using the Vans 2.25 > spacer recommendation instead of waiting on the prop. First let me > say that I think the spacer method would have worked fine BUT it > should have been 2 1/16 instead of 2 1/4. I am fitting a Hartzell > BA to an O-360 AIA and it just doesn't work. I used the 1/4 inch > metal spacer and one washer under the spinner plate per plans. > The first picture shows the spinner spacer which was three pieces of > good plywood cut accordingly with a couple of nickels for additional > space. That gave me a 2.230" spacer. I fitted the cowl which was a > little tight at the top and a little wide at the bottom. The faces > of the top and bottom cowl are not actually parallel. My plan was > to build up the inside back of the top cowl face and the outside of > the bottom face and then shave it parallel with the spinner plate to > make a perfect 1/4. In the second picture with no prop and spacer, > the clearance at the top is a little under 1/4 and maybe 3/8 at the > bottom. > Third picture. Now comes the prop and with nothing different,=85.the > gap closed to 0 at the top and 1/4 at the bottom. No doubt about > it, the spacer was simply too long. It should have been no more > that 2 1/8 to 2 1/16 to leave a little fill room. 2.00 might be > perfect if you plan to true up the face later. It the spacer is too > long, it causes you to fit the cowl further out from the firewall > than it should be. > Here is where I would ask for an opinion on my fix. > I don't want to recut the hinges and try to move it around so I am > thinking that I will build up the top cowl face from the inside with > epoxy and long hair flox about 3/8 of an inch and then simply sand > off/back 1/4 inch off the top half of the cowl and square it up > with the spinner plate. In the third picture, you can see marks > that would be a 1/4 inch gap. (effectively just sand back to those > lines) > The bottom is about right now but needs to be trued up a bit with > some build on the outside and then the whole cowl face fitted > parallel to the spinner. This doesn't seem like nearly as much > work as cutting the whole face off, trimming, and then glassing > back. Other than taking a little patience, I can't see any reason > why it won=92t work. I don't have a lot of glass experience yet but I > think the epoxy / long hair / layer of glass on the inside should be > as strong as the original when it's sanded back a 1/4. The last > picture shows how much needs to come off on the top. ( 1/4 inch > paint paddle) > Comments please. > <<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>> > Thanks for any help? > Bill Schlatterer > 7a ARK > > [Image Removed] > [Image Removed] > [Image Removed] > [Image Removed] > Supercharge your AIM. Get the AIM toolbar for your browser. > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:58:11 PM PST US From: "Bill Schlatterer" Subject: RE: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer I should have checked the list before I started but the instructions were so clear, it just never occurred to me that they would be that far off. Either way, it looks like I have some "fitting" work to do. The shim at the firewall Rick mentioned would be a help and probably no significant impact on the CG. Did you use layers of glass or epoxy flox combination? Someone mentioned that the epoxy/flox was a lot harder to work. Thanks Bill S _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Phillips Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 10:24 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer As mentioned in my last reply, I did the fiberglass work on the basis of Van's recommendation. I also did the shim trick. I added 1 washer under each mount so that gave me 1/16" or so then I had less to remove from the cowl. Van's cautioned me from doing to much spacing at the motor mount. Andrew On 12-Mar-08, at 10:44 AM, rikvincent@aol.com wrote: How about shimming with washer the motor mount at the firewall. Rick RV 6 -----Original Message----- From: Bill Schlatterer Sent: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 6:41 pm Subject: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer I have a problem with the Spinner gap caused by using the Vans 2.25 spacer recommendation instead of waiting on the prop. First let me say that I think the spacer method would have worked fine BUT it should have been 2 1/16 instead of 2 1/4. I am fitting a Hartzell BA to an O-360 AIA and it just doesn't work. I used the 1/4 inch metal spacer and one washer under the spinner plate per plans. The first picture shows the spinner spacer which was three pieces of good plywood cut accordingly with a couple of nickels for additional space. That gave me a 2.230" spacer. I fitted the cowl which was a little tight at the top and a little wide at the bottom. The faces of the top and bottom cowl are not actually parallel. My plan was to build up the inside back of the top cowl face and the outside of the bottom face and then shave it parallel with the spinner plate to make a perfect 1/4. In the second picture with no prop and spacer, the clearance at the top is a little under 1/4 and maybe 3/8 at the bottom. Third picture. Now comes the prop and with nothing different,..the gap closed to 0 at the top and 1/4 at the bottom. No doubt about it, the spacer was simply too long. It should have been no more that 2 1/8 to 2 1/16 to leave a little fill room. 2.00 might be perfect if you plan to true up the face later. It the spacer is too long, it causes you to fit the cowl further out from the firewall than it should be. Here is where I would ask for an opinion on my fix. I don't want to recut the hinges and try to move it around so I am thinking that I will build up the top cowl face from the inside with epoxy and long hair flox about 3/8 of an inch and then simply sand off/back 1/4 inch off the top half of the cowl and square it up with the spinner plate. In the third picture, you can see marks that would be a 1/4 inch gap. (effectively just sand back to those lines) The bottom is about right now but needs to be trued up a bit with some build on the outside and then the whole cowl face fitted parallel to the spinner. This doesn't seem like nearly as much work as cutting the whole face off, trimming, and then glassing back. Other than taking a little patience, I can't see any reason why it won't work. I don't have a lot of glass experience yet but I think the epoxy / long hair / layer of glass on the inside should be as strong as the original when it's sanded back a 1/4. The last picture shows how much needs to come off on the top. ( 1/4 inch paint paddle) Comments please. <<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>> Thanks for any help? Bill Schlatterer 7a ARK [Image Removed] [Image Removed] [Image Removed] [Image Removed] _____ Supercharge your AIM. 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