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1. 05:19 AM - Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer (Andrew Phillips)
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer |
I used epoxy/fox. I stood the cowl on end and made the mix just a bit
soupy then poured it it. I just smoothed out the top when done. No
glass was used and it worked fine.
Andrew
On 12-Mar-08, at 8:54 PM, Bill Schlatterer wrote:
> I should have checked the list before I started but the instructions
> were so clear, it just never occurred to me that they would be that
> far off. Either way, it looks like I have some "fitting" work to
> do. The shim at the firewall Rick mentioned would be a help and
> probably no significant impact on the CG. Did you use layers of
> glass or epoxy flox combination? Someone mentioned that the epoxy/
> flox was a lot harder to work.
>
> Thanks Bill S
>
>
> From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Andrew Phillips
> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 10:24 AM
> To: rv7-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer
>
> As mentioned in my last reply, I did the fiberglass work on the
> basis of Van's recommendation. I also did the shim trick. I added 1
> washer under each mount so that gave me 1/16" or so then I had less
> to remove from the cowl. Van's cautioned me from doing to much
> spacing at the motor mount.
> Andrew
>
> On 12-Mar-08, at 10:44 AM, rikvincent@aol.com wrote:
>
>> How about shimming with washer the motor mount at the firewall.
>> Rick RV 6
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bill Schlatterer <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
>> To: RV7A@yahoogroups.com; rv-list@matronics.com;
rv7-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 6:41 pm
>> Subject: RV7-List: Cowl to Spinner Fit with 2.25 Spacer
>>
>>
>> I have a problem with the Spinner gap caused by using the Vans 2.25
>> spacer recommendation instead of waiting on the prop. First let me
>> say that I think the spacer method would have worked fine BUT it
>> should have been 2 1/16 instead of 2 1/4. I am fitting a Hartzell
>> BA to an O-360 AIA and it just doesn't work. I used the 1/4 inch
>> metal spacer and one washer under the spinner plate per plans.
>> The first picture shows the spinner spacer which was three pieces
>> of good plywood cut accordingly with a couple of nickels for
>> additional space. That gave me a 2.230" spacer. I fitted the cowl
>> which was a little tight at the top and a little wide at the
>> bottom. The faces of the top and bottom cowl are not actually
>> parallel. My plan was to build up the inside back of the top cowl
>> face and the outside of the bottom face and then shave it parallel
>> with the spinner plate to make a perfect 1/4. In the second
>> picture with no prop and spacer, the clearance at the top is a
>> little under 1/4 and maybe 3/8 at the bottom.
>> Third picture. Now comes the prop and with nothing different,
>> =85.the gap closed to 0 at the top and 1/4 at the bottom. No doubt
>> about it, the spacer was simply too long. It should have been no
>> more that 2 1/8 to 2 1/16 to leave a little fill room. 2.00 might
>> be perfect if you plan to true up the face later. It the spacer is
>> too long, it causes you to fit the cowl further out from the
>> firewall than it should be.
>> Here is where I would ask for an opinion on my fix.
>> I don't want to recut the hinges and try to move it around so I am
>> thinking that I will build up the top cowl face from the inside
>> with epoxy and long hair flox about 3/8 of an inch and then simply
>> sand off/back 1/4 inch off the top half of the cowl and square it
>> up with the spinner plate. In the third picture, you can see marks
>> that would be a 1/4 inch gap. (effectively just sand back to those
>> lines)
>> The bottom is about right now but needs to be trued up a bit with
>> some build on the outside and then the whole cowl face fitted
>> parallel to the spinner. This doesn't seem like nearly as much
>> work as cutting the whole face off, trimming, and then glassing
>> back. Other than taking a little patience, I can't see any reason
>> why it won=92t work. I don't have a lot of glass experience yet but
>> I think the epoxy / long hair / layer of glass on the inside should
>> be as strong as the original when it's sanded back a 1/4. The last
>> picture shows how much needs to come off on the top. ( 1/4 inch
>> paint paddle)
>> Comments please.
>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>>
>> Thanks for any help?
>> Bill Schlatterer
>> 7a ARK
>>
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