Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:07 PM - -7 tipup rear window fitting problem (Charlie England)
2. 03:02 PM - Re: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem (Trevor)
3. 06:28 PM - Re: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem (Charlie England)
4. 08:02 PM - Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips... (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | -7 tipup rear window fitting problem |
I'm beginning the fit of my rear window (-7 tipup). After the big cut &
trimming the rear window to the plans-specified 1 1/4" outside the top
skin outline, I get a good 'glass/skin fit from top rear to about 10"
back of the roll bar. from that point it looks like the skin is puckered
out, but on closer exam the bottom edge of the window doesn't curve down
& in quick enough & is slightly outside the vertical line of the
fuselage side. The problem is almost identical on both sides. I *might*
be able to pull this in with screws, but my plan is to glue the canopy
and the rear window. I've got misgivings about expecting the sikaflex to
hold against this much stress when it won't be the specified 1/8"
thickness around this curved edge.
Has anyone else seen similar problems, and what did you do? The 1st
thing that comes to mind is heating & re curving the plexi, but the 2nd
thing that comes to mind is needing a new $1K canopy.
Thanks,
Charlie
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem |
I used some sawn off broom sticks with foam padding to push the plexi from
the inside of the cockpit against the skin. I used about 5 and wedged them
onto the floor. This squeezes the Sika out- no problem tho as you can mask
off an area 1/4-3/8" beyond the plexi, prep it as per instructions, and run
a bead of Sika along the aft edge of the plexi, This makes a neat fillet and
gives it the holding strength. The thin gap on the outside, between the skin
and plexi can be neatly finished by masking off about 1/8" from the edge of
the skin and onto the plexi and filling with tank sealant. Use finger to
smooth it off. Don't be too fazed by the min 1/8 gap as the coverage is
over a large area and although the plexi is almost flush with the skin on
the outside, there is a slight taper away from the skin the further aft the
plexi extends, which will be filled with a thicker layer of Sika. I was
amazed with the result. The plexi pushes the skin outwards and fits
snugly -no holes, no puckering, no waves and ugly screws/rivets etc.
I also made the gap between the front and rear canopy slightly larger and
built in a _n_ seal. This solved the problem of having to raise the rear
canopy up 1/8 and finding the front part without any support. Used some
square self-adhesive 1/8 rubber door seal to form a "dam" which I filled
with Sika, some vaseline on the front Plexi, closed the canopy and when the
excess was hard I meerly sanded it flush, leaving a neat air-tight seal.
Obviously you need to apply electrical tape to mask/protect the areas you
dont want Sika on.
hope this helps- feel free to contact me if you need any explanations
Trevor RV-7 Tip up + RV-7 slider with only Sika - sorry, one hole on the
slider for the locking handle!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 9:07 PM
Subject: RV7-List: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem
>
> I'm beginning the fit of my rear window (-7 tipup). After the big cut &
> trimming the rear window to the plans-specified 1 1/4" outside the top
> skin outline, I get a good 'glass/skin fit from top rear to about 10" back
> of the roll bar. from that point it looks like the skin is puckered out,
> but on closer exam the bottom edge of the window doesn't curve down & in
> quick enough & is slightly outside the vertical line of the fuselage side.
> The problem is almost identical on both sides. I *might* be able to pull
> this in with screws, but my plan is to glue the canopy and the rear
> window. I've got misgivings about expecting the sikaflex to hold against
> this much stress when it won't be the specified 1/8" thickness around this
> curved edge.
>
> Has anyone else seen similar problems, and what did you do? The 1st thing
> that comes to mind is heating & re curving the plexi, but the 2nd thing
> that comes to mind is needing a new $1K canopy.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem |
Thanks for the info. My problem might be the reverse of yours: the
outside/bottom edge of the plexi about 8-10" behind the roll bar, where
the top skin starts its sweep up as well as back, is actually wider
than the fuselage in that area. The result is that there's a small but
noticeable gap between the plexi & the curved edge of the top skin. The
edge of the plexi, 1 1/4" below the edge of the skin at that point, is
pushing the skin out. There isn't enough curvature in the window to take
that area vertical to match the skin's 'desire' to be vertical in that
area. Therefore, the ~4" wide area of the skin leans outboard at the top
if it's cleco'd along the longeron rivet line.
It's not bad, maybe 1/16-1/8" at the worst point, but if there's a way
to make it really fit I'd like to try it.
Charlie
Trevor wrote:
>
> I used some sawn off broom sticks with foam padding to push the plexi
> from the inside of the cockpit against the skin. I used about 5 and
> wedged them onto the floor. This squeezes the Sika out- no problem
> tho as you can mask off an area 1/4-3/8" beyond the plexi, prep it as
> per instructions, and run a bead of Sika along the aft edge of the
> plexi, This makes a neat fillet and gives it the holding strength. The
> thin gap on the outside, between the skin and plexi can be neatly
> finished by masking off about 1/8" from the edge of the skin and onto
> the plexi and filling with tank sealant. Use finger to smooth it
> off. Don't be too fazed by the min 1/8 gap as the coverage is over a
> large area and although the plexi is almost flush with the skin on the
> outside, there is a slight taper away from the skin the further aft
> the plexi extends, which will be filled with a thicker layer of Sika.
> I was amazed with the result. The plexi pushes the skin outwards and
> fits snugly -no holes, no puckering, no waves and ugly screws/rivets etc.
>
> I also made the gap between the front and rear canopy slightly larger
> and built in a _n_ seal. This solved the problem of having to raise
> the rear canopy up 1/8 and finding the front part without any
> support. Used some square self-adhesive 1/8 rubber door seal to form
> a "dam" which I filled with Sika, some vaseline on the front Plexi,
> closed the canopy and when the excess was hard I meerly sanded it
> flush, leaving a neat air-tight seal. Obviously you need to apply
> electrical tape to mask/protect the areas you dont want Sika on.
>
> hope this helps- feel free to contact me if you need any explanations
>
> Trevor RV-7 Tip up + RV-7 slider with only Sika - sorry, one hole on
> the slider for the locking handle!
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England"
> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
> To: "RV list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 9:07 PM
> Subject: RV7-List: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem
>
>
>> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> I'm beginning the fit of my rear window (-7 tipup). After the big cut
>> & trimming the rear window to the plans-specified 1 1/4" outside the
>> top skin outline, I get a good 'glass/skin fit from top rear to about
>> 10" back of the roll bar. from that point it looks like the skin is
>> puckered out, but on closer exam the bottom edge of the window
>> doesn't curve down & in quick enough & is slightly outside the
>> vertical line of the fuselage side. The problem is almost identical
>> on both sides. I *might* be able to pull this in with screws, but my
>> plan is to glue the canopy and the rear window. I've got misgivings
>> about expecting the sikaflex to hold against this much stress when it
>> won't be the specified 1/8" thickness around this curved edge.
>>
>> Has anyone else seen similar problems, and what did you do? The 1st
>> thing that comes to mind is heating & re curving the plexi, but the
>> 2nd thing that comes to mind is needing a new $1K canopy.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips... |
Dear Listers,
Here are some pictures of my recently finished Fin and Rudder
fiberglass tips, specifically highlighting my notion of mounting the
VOR/GS/LOC antenna on the top of the Fin. It came out very nice I
think and gives full access to cabling and antenna mount for maintenance.
But here's my question. Look at that last picture of the back end of
the Fin fiberglass tip and note the gaping hole. I gather from the
plans that it is kind of up to the builder whether to put a cover on
the back of it. My first question would have to be why the f***
isn't there one already molded on it like on the front of the rudder
tip? But, hostility aside, what's everyone's thoughts on finishing
these? I'm just thinking that my patience for fiberglass layups
hovers around zero and I can just see taking a totally sweet tip
installation and mucking it royally. But, I will if I must. I would
really like the back end finished off rather than gaping open like
that, but it might be something I could live with...
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
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