Today's Message Index:
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1. 09:49 AM - Re: Heavy Right Wing... (Follow Up) (Matt Dralle)
2. 10:08 AM - Re: Canopy Skirt Buzz... (Follow Up) (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Heavy Right Wing... (Follow Up) |
Last night I went out and measured the position of the left aileron and found it
to be pretty darn close to perfect on both inboard and outboard edges. I measured
the right aileron and noted that the outboard edge was about 1/32 lower
than the inboard edge. So, I thought I'd try splitting the different between
the original location and the current one. I went out test this new setting
and to my amazement and jubilation, the trim is almost dead center across the
speed range of 170-230mph. A little tap either way easily accounts for fuel burn
on a given side. I also noted that the skid ball is nicely dead center across
those speed ranges. Yahoo! One less thing to worry about!
Thanks to everyone on the List for their input! Very much appreciated!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 160+ Hours TTSN - Paint job is all that's left...
At 09:27 AM 4/1/2011 Friday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
>
>After a good night's rest I got to thinking about these most recent observations.
Dropping the RIGHT aileron a 1/16" caused the trim requirement at high speed
to go from the previous full-LEFT to a full-RIGHT setting. Wouldn't this
imply that now the LEFT aileron needs a similar adjustment perhaps? Maybe only
a 1/32" on the left side? Seems that if a given aileron that was too HIGH
was dropped too much it would still cause the same drag/trim problem if its too
LOW? So the fact that now my trim is completely the opposite implies that the
RIGHT aileron is probably now exactly on and moreover, it was TWICE as much
too high as the LEFT aileron still is.
>
>Does any of this make sense?
>
>-
>Matt Dralle
>
>At 08:47 PM 3/31/2011 Thursday, you wrote:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
>>
>>Thanks to everyone for the great feedback on this issue!!
>>
>>I went out after work tonight and had a look at the aileron alignment and sure
enough, the outboard edge of the right aileron was high by about 1/16-3/32 of
an inch. I took the hinge off the aileron and elongated the holes slightly
and reassembled, dropping the outboard side by about 1/16". I went out and took
it up to about 220mph and now - are you ready for this - it requires full RIGHT
trim! Completely the opposite from before. So, obviously I need to reduce
the drop by 50% and I should be dead-on neutral trim! Its amazing to me how
such a little movement had such a HUGE impact on the trim. No, aileron edge
smooshing necessary, by the way! Whew!
>>
>>Best,
>>-
>>Matt Dralle
>>
>>At 09:10 AM 3/31/2011 Thursday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>Dear Listers,
>>>
>>>Well, taking the RV-8 in for paint is getting closer and closer and I'm trying
to get all the little things that need doing done before then. Dealing with
the heavy right wing is the next thing on the list. Currently, at low speed
I have about neutral aileron trim. The faster I go, the more LEFT trim I need.
Above 200mph, I run out of left trim and the left aileron is noticeably "up",
maybe .125" or so. Both of my ailerons are "chubby" at the trailing edge.
I wanted to confirm with the List that "squeezing" the RIGHT aileron will add
a bit of lift on the RIGHT side and hopefully neutralize the issue?
>>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>
>>>Matt
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Canopy Skirt Buzz... (Follow Up) |
Since I wrote the message below, the ambient temps have gone up quite a bit and
I started opening the air vents in the cabin again. Well, the combination of
the warmer canopy parts and the extra pressure inside the cabin because of the
vents, the buzz returned and was pretty loud. At cruse, the buzz was louder
than the engine!
So yesterday I took a look at where the buzz might actually becoming from. Closer
inspection showed that, about right in the middle of the fiberglass skirt
"curve" behind the rear seat it wasn't quite lying flush against the top fuselage
skin. I found that I could kind of hammer on the skirt with my finger at
the high point and make a sound similar to what I was hearing in flight.
Last Summer, I had put a strip of Velcro "loops" all the way around the base of
the canopy skirt which definitely deaden the noise. BUT, after sitting out in
the 110 degree sun, the glue on the Velcro got all melty and the tape started
to slide do to the side "stress" of applying the tape on the curve.
I noticed during a trip to Lowes last night that they have a "Heavy Duty" version
of the Velcro tape that is suppose to hold up to outdoor conditions. I bought
a roll and headed out to the airport.
I didn't really want to put tape all the way around the base of the skirt like
before in case this new Heavy Duty stuff didn't hold up in the sun either. So,
I found the aforementioned high spots on the left and right sides, and simply
applied a 3" long strip at the "transition" area between where the skirt was
touching the skin and the high-point of the skirt above the skin. I noted that
tapping on the area didn't yield nearly the buzz as before.
I went out and flew and I'm extremely happy to report that the buzzing is completely
gone!! I feel its kind of the perfect solution in that now I have a nice
layer of UHMW all the way around the canopy skirt to minimize the top skin abrasion,
and have stopped the buzzing with a simple and easily replaceable solution.
Matt's $.02.
Best regards,
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 160+ Hours TTSN - Paint job is all that's left...
At 12:15 PM 3/22/2011 Tuesday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>At 10:25 AM 3/22/2011 Tuesday, you wrote:
>>Matt,
>>Did you settle on a material that you preferred for deadening the canopy buzz
[on your RV-8]? We are experiencing the same thing but at a very narrow speed
range. Before we reinvent the wheel I figured I would ask.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Robin
>
>
>Hi Robin,
>
>Yes, solved mostly. Here the stuff to get:
>
>http://cshyde.thomasnet.com/viewitems/tapes-with-psa/uhmw-tape--black-anti-stat-rubber-adhesive?forward=1
>
>This is black UHMW table with a rubber adhesive (good to 150F). I got the .020"
stuff.
>
>Its not very bendable sideways, so don't try to get the .5" kind and wrap it around
the s-curve in the back. It definitely won't stick for very long.
>
>Get the 6" wide stuff - Part number <http://cshyde.thomasnet.com/viewitems/tapes-with-psa//item/tapes-with-psa/uhmw-tape--black-anti-stat-rubber-adhesive/anti-stat-uhmw-19-20blk-6-5?>19-20BLK-6-5 (5 yards) or <http://cshyde.thomasnet.com/viewitems/tapes-with-psa//item/tapes-with-psa/uhmw-tape--black-anti-stat-rubber-adhesive/anti-stat-uhmw-19-20blk-6-18?>19-20BLK-6-18 (18 yards) - and lay it flat over the skirt on the inside and then trace the contour. Move it up by about .75" and then trace again. Then cut out the piece which should be a perfect fit around the inside edge of the canopy skirt. I forgot to take any pictures of the process! That's so not like me! :-)
>
>I also used the .5" stuff (<http://cshyde.thomasnet.com/viewitems/tapes-with-psa//item/tapes-with-psa/uhmw-tape--black-anti-stat-rubber-adhesive/anti-stat-uhmw-19-20blk-5-5?>19-20BLK-.5-5) for along the straight left and right side of the skirt. Although, I wish I'd used the .75 stuff.
>
>Seems to dampen the vibration and also doesn't mark the paint/metal due to its
low co-efficient of friction. Its basically the same stuff that Van's sells
for the flaps, but much thicker and black. I also like the high-temp rubber adhesive.
We'll see how it holds up over the Summer.
>
>My only complaint is that I wish they made a .040" thick version.
>
>-
>Matt Dralle
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