Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:40 AM - Re: Vertical or horizontal induction (Jim Norman)
2. 06:23 AM - Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges (Ed OConnor)
3. 07:40 AM - Re: Vertical or horizontal induction (BUTLER, FRANCIS)
4. 08:31 AM - Re:Tail stand (Al Malecha)
5. 09:15 AM - Re: Re:Tail stand (Schilling Karl)
6. 11:59 AM - Re: Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges (Jim Norman)
7. 06:11 PM - Re: Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges (Norman)
8. 06:49 PM - RE Invisible Hinge: Was: Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges (Jim Norman)
9. 08:24 PM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] spring back dimple dies (richard martin)
10. 08:29 PM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] Hartwell Latches (richard martin)
11. 09:24 PM - Re: Invisible Hinge (Norman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Vertical or horizontal induction |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@InterMapSystems.com>
I second all that is said here. This is my EXACT set up.
HOWEVER, you must be warned, if you plan on doing this for a 6 or 7, it will
add MONTHS to your building process. These 'improvements' take a lot of
wrangling and customizing to make them work. Dick's experience is with an 8,
which apparently fits better. I would suggest that these 'improvments'
added an additional 6 months to my project (possibly more). The amount of
extra work required cannot be overstated. I've written on this subject in
the past, so will say no more. Its a great set up when its done, however!
Photos here, including photos of the cowl, plenum, etc:
http://www.steinair.com/jn
jim
tampa
6a
Fast
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of richard martin
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Vertical or horizontal induction
--> RV8-List message posted by: "richard martin" <martin333@athenet.net>
Shane,
Neither cowl version will give you much of a speed improvement.
If you wish to go faster, consider the Sam James Cowl aka "holy cowl or NACA
cowl" with a plenum chamber also from Sam James. Use a fuel injected engine
with a forward facing horizontal induction. This combination will yield a
minimum
speed increase of 10 mph and also a boost in manifold pressure of 1 to 2
inches
depending on temperature and altitude. Also, this combo will substantially
improve both oil cooling and CHTs. Oil cooler should be intalled on the
rear
of #3 cylinder tilted down approx 25 degrees. DO NOT USE a Positech oil
cooler
on this installation. I tried one and had very bad results. (inadequate
cooling).
I used a NIAGARA 10 row cooler. If you are using the 180 hp version, the 9
row cooler should be large enough. I would also suggest that you seriously
consider a Lightspeed electronic ignition. It will save you up ;to 5% in
fuel
consumption, and will give you a boost in power. HOT starts are a non event
with a Lightspeed.
Go Faster.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
>
>Dear friends,
>
>My Father and building partner are clipping along on our fuselage and
>have ordered our finish kit recently. We have not yet bought a motor
>but we are considering the superior xp360 injected version. It is a
>parallel valve with a vertical induction. My question is how much
>drag does the chin scoop create with the vertical induction?
>Does the slight boost from the ram air on a chin scoop version outweigh
>the lack of drag from a non chin scoop cowl that is used with horizontal
>induction? Does anyone have any hard numbers to compare the 2 cowl
>versions?. I think the xp360 can be converted to a horizontal draft
>induction but is it worth the bother? Any comments would be
>appreciated. The bottom line is given the same motor which cowl is
>faster, chin scoop or non chin scoop?
>Shane Summerhays
>Salt Lake City Utah
>Flying rv6
>Fuse rv8
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges |
--> RV8-List message posted by: Ed OConnor <EdwardOConnor@compuserve.com>
I will begin work on my Sam James cowlingl soon and planned to use Skybot
fastners at the firewall and the standard hinge along the horizontal part
of the cowl. Has this combo worked for others? If so did you use the
standard hinge or the extruded type? Also, would it be necessary to use
hinge with a wider flange then the sandard P2 hinge? I noticed on Jim
Normans's web site that this is what he did on his Sam James version.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Vertical or horizontal induction |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "BUTLER, FRANCIS" <FRANCIS_BUTLER@butler-machinery.com>
New RV8 canopy for sale, still in the plastic wrap. Located Fargo ND. $375.
I ordered a new darker tint canopy for my 8.
Francis Butler
Butler Machinery Co.
(701) 298-1758 direct
(701) 476-3208 fax
francis_butler@butler-machinery.com
Message 4
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--> RV8-List message posted by: "Al Malecha" <azflyer@theriver.com>
I recently saw on someone's website a "tailstand/jack" assembly that someone is
making for RV8. Does anyone have that info. Thanks,
AL
Message 5
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--> RV8-List message posted by: Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling@ssfhs.org>
You can find all the info @ www.tail-mate.com Karl in Indy RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: Al Malecha [mailto:azflyer@theriver.com]
Subject: RV8-List: re:Tail stand
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Al Malecha" <azflyer@theriver.com>
I recently saw on someone's website a "tailstand/jack" assembly that someone
is making for RV8. Does anyone have that info. Thanks,
AL
Message 6
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| Subject: | Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@InterMapSystems.com>
I know quite a few people who have combined hinges and SkyBolt fastners on
their cowls, and everybody that I've talked to has liked it a lot.
I use hinges along the sides where the two cowl halves meet, and also on the
bottom half of the cowl on the vertical surfaces. I use SkyBolt fasteners
along the very bottom of the cowl/firewall interface, and along the entire
top cowl against the firewall. My hangar mate Don Hughes uses the exact
same set up. We both like it a lot. We can get our top cowls off in about a
minute, and the look is very good.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed OConnor
Subject: RV8-List: Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges
--> RV8-List message posted by: Ed OConnor <EdwardOConnor@compuserve.com>
I will begin work on my Sam James cowlingl soon and planned to use Skybot
fastners at the firewall and the standard hinge along the horizontal part
of the cowl. Has this combo worked for others? If so did you use the
standard hinge or the extruded type? Also, would it be necessary to use
hinge with a wider flange then the sandard P2 hinge? I noticed on Jim
Normans's web site that this is what he did on his Sam James version.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Jim,
What meathod did you use to get the hinge in and out of the cowl on the
horizontal split line? Is the end visible?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Do not archive questions
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE Invisible Hinge: Was: Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@InterMapSystems.com>
My hinge is invisible from the outside... it is inserted from the inside.
This makes a GREAT finish, but there are several issues to concern yourself
while doing it.
First, you need to make a small hole in the firewall for the pin to come
through; second, the fresh air duct is in the way (is in line with the cowl
halves on the RV-6, not sure about its position on other RVs), and third,
you need an easy way to be able to insert the darn thing without crawling
under the instrument panel.
I cured all of these problems with one solution... a piece of small
diameter, hard plastic tubing... I got this tubing at the model airplane
shop--its tubing intended for connection between the servos and the control
surfaces of an RC airplane).
So, I made a hole in the firewall for my tubing. Obviously, the hole lines
up with the hinge eyes. This tubing is about 18 inches long, and it curves
over (on top of, not around) the fresh air vent, and then ends at a bulkhead
just under the dash (out of site). Two small Adel clamps hold it in place in
the middle and at the most aft end (under the panel).
The hinge pin is kept about 2 feet longer (estimate..??) because it has to
go through my 18 inches of so of hidden tubing. I used ProSeal (I love that
stuff!) at the firewall/tubing hole to keep the tubing in place and to keep
out the fumes.
It is INCREDIBLY simple to put my hinge pins in... I take the pin and stick
it into my tubing and push it in. It takes less than 3 seconds to put the
pin all the way in, or take it all the way out. There is nothing but good
old friction holding it in place, but remember that the length of the tubing
and its curvature around the vent add more resistance to pulling out. And
then finally, if it ever starts to come out... it will stick out from under
the edge of the panel and I'll see it... and push it back in.
Works great, looks great, no issue of pins into the prop!
Jim
Tampa
Going to my first RV get together this weekend... Waaaa Hooo!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Jim,
What meathod did you use to get the hinge in and out of the cowl on the
horizontal split line? Is the end visible?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Do not archive questions
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] spring back dimple dies |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "richard martin" <martin333@athenet.net>
Robert,
Simple. They are the only dies that will produce a perfect dimple every time.
They totally eliminate shaving or dressing rivet heads. I have tried every
brand and type of die. For Sale--slightly used cheap dimple dies. Price -
cheap. Save your money, buy the best dimple dies first.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
<tt>
Hello Group, Happy New Year!
Can someone enlighten me on the advantages to the spring back Dimple
Dies?
Thank You in Advance.....Robert
</tt>
<tt>
Online help on this group at:
<a href="http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/">http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
</tt>
Terms of Service.</tt>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Hartwell Latches |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "richard martin" <martin333@athenet.net>
Try B & B Aircraft Supplies, Gardner, Kansas. Sorry, don"t have number. They
advertise in Sport Aviation and Trade A Plane.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
<tt>
Where can I find a couple of Hartwell latches
suitable for installation on an oil access door?
The commonly available model H-2000-2 is NOT suitable
for my installation. I am told the model H-4600-C
works perfectly since the catch setback is more
adaptable for this application. A builder who
successfully used the H-4600-C latches on his RV-
6 oil access door said he bought a couple of used
ones at Arlington some years back. Anyone know
of a source new or used?
</tt>
<tt>
Online help on this group at:
<a href="http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/">http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
</tt>
Terms of Service.</tt>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Invisible Hinge |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Thanks Jim, I knew there had to be a better way to do that hinge than some
of the atrocities I've seen on the cowls of some RV's. I'll save your post
in my "keepers" folder for reference next winter when I should be doing my
cowl.
Norman
Do not archive
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