---------------------------------------------------------- RV8-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 03/12/03: 5 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:06 AM - Re: Scratches in Aluminum (Urobat@aol.com) 2. 06:10 AM - Re: Scratches in Aluminum (Chris Stone) 3. 07:04 AM - Re: Scratches in Aluminum (Curtis R. White) 4. 08:51 AM - Stock RV-8 Gear Legs and Hardware for Sale (Rob Miller) 5. 05:13 PM - Re: Scratches in Aluminum (Vince Himsl) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:06:26 AM PST US From: Urobat@aol.com Subject: Re: RV8-List: Scratches in Aluminum --> RV8-List message posted by: Urobat@aol.com I am using Rustoleum Primer in the spray cans. I give everything a light coat on the inside before driving the rivets and closing. It's a lot simpler than the mixing of the Sherwin Williams and other types and using the spray gun. Jim Nelson ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:10:58 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV8-List: Scratches in Aluminum From: "Chris Stone" --> RV8-List message posted by: "Chris Stone" The skins are alclad, that is they are coated with a thin coat of pure aluminum that provides excellent corrosion protection. I don't think your scratch is a structural problem, but in the process of sanding it out you will remove the alclad. Primer and paint will protect the skin. I would suggest that you keep the area sanded to just the scratch itself and avoid sanding the surrounding area. A 1" dia. Buffing wheel on a dremel or die grinder and some rouge will also work well to polish out the scratch. I am building my emp & wings I have only been priming the parts that are not alclad, i.e. ribs, extrusions, stiffeners. I live in the Northwest, read damp 6 months of the year and there are many RVs primed this way. (There are many with all parts primed also). I have been using Napa self etching rattle can primer which works well. The scratch resistance is not as good as Veriprime but for the interior of wings and emp. it should be fine. Chris Stone RV-8 Emp & wings -----Original Message----- From: linenwool@attbi.com [mailto:linenwool@attbi.com] Subject: RV8-List: Scratches in Aluminum --> RV8-List message posted by: linenwool@attbi.com How do you gauge if a scratch is too deep? My HS skin seems to have come with a scratch in it that is about 2 inches long. I might be able to sand it out but it would probably take something as course as 120 grit for how deep it is. and then more fine to polish it. Would this be acceptable for structural reasons? I can put it on the bottom and I'm sure the paint would cover it as well but I don't want to chance it if it is a safety issue. Also...uh oh, here we go.... is it a big deal not to prime the inside of the skins even though I've taken the time to prime all ribs and spars? Thanks, -Will Allen North Bend, Wa. RV8 emp direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:04:44 AM PST US From: "Curtis R. White" Subject: Re: RV8-List: Scratches in Aluminum --> RV8-List message posted by: "Curtis R. White" If you're going to sand or buff any part of the alclad (or any other aluminum part for that matter) you absolutely must etch and alodine the surface. This process will not only assist in corrosion prevention, but allow for better adhesion of any primer and paint that you will apply. In the enviroment here in the Caribbean EVERYTHING is etched, alodined and primed. linenwool@attbi.com wrote: > --> RV8-List message posted by: linenwool@attbi.com > > How do you gauge if a scratch is too deep? My HS skin seems to have come with > a scratch in it that is about 2 inches long. I might be able to sand it out > but it would probably take something as course as 120 grit for how deep it is. > and then more fine to polish it. Would this be acceptable for structural > reasons? I can put it on the bottom and I'm sure the paint would cover it as > well but I don't want to chance it if it is a safety issue. > > Also...uh oh, here we go.... is it a big deal not to prime the inside of the > skins even though I've taken the time to prime all ribs and spars? > > Thanks, > > -Will Allen > North Bend, Wa. > RV8 emp > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:51:49 AM PST US From: Rob Miller Subject: RV8-List: Stock RV-8 Gear Legs and Hardware for Sale --> RV8-List message posted by: Rob Miller Nearly New, only 47 hours TT, perfect condition, Van's steel RV-8 gear legs (swapped out for Grove aluminum legs). If you haven't ordered yet Van's will give you a credit of over $600 for not including the landing gear. If you already have the legs and hardware but they are unused, they can be returned for the credit. $300 for all. Please reply off list. Do not archive Rob Miller -8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 48 hours ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:13:08 PM PST US From: "Vince Himsl" Subject: RE: RV8-List: Scratches in Aluminum --> RV8-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" Suggest you lightly buff scratch, hit with a little primer (NAPA 7026 in spray cans is my personal choice along with the aluminum cleaner that is on the shelf right next to it) and move on. When the plane is done, you will be going completely over it anyway to repair the other dents, dings, gouges, etc. that you "will" have. I started out priming everything but now I am down to doing it only if the plans say so, else thinking about it if not. I will prime any area that gets pretty scratched up during the construction phase which for me is usually along the rivet line as I keep the plastic coating on till the last instant before riveting. Also I prime between two dissimilar metals. I lightly buff the affected area so as to increase the grip of the primer, not to remove the alcad finish. Personal RV-List Observation #1: One can get way too eaten up with this primer thing! Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 (SB) Fuselage/Finish/Saving up for engine Moscow, ID USA