Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:16 AM - RV8 floors (Mickey Coggins)
2. 09:24 AM - Re: RV8 floors (Doug Ripley)
3. 11:12 AM - Re: RV8 floors (Al Grajek)
4. 12:01 PM - Re: RV8 floors (Scott Bilinski)
5. 12:20 PM - Re: RV8 floors (Vince Himsl)
6. 01:35 PM - Re: RV8 floors (RV8ter@aol.com)
7. 03:52 PM - Re: RV8 floors (Jacob & Grace)
8. 04:33 PM - Wire Sizes in the wing (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
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--> RV8-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Usually if something is real hard, then I must
be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
on doing the rear floors correctly?
The manual says it's not easy, but they will
go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
whole cabin before I get them in.
Has anyone done something different, like cut
the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
it be better to use platenuts all around,
instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
need to get in there sometime down the road...
Thanks for any hints!
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 2
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--> RV8-List message posted by: "Doug Ripley" <dougr@hurricanefilter.com>
Mine went in ok, but it took some work. Hard part is getting under the
bulkhead (not sure of the number, but the ones adjacent to the front-seat
seatbelt mounts). I filed some of the flange on that to make room for the
floor to slide under.
I didn't use nut-plates.....would take too darn many. I suggest to not
locate any antennas under that part of the floor, and run some conduit under
the floor for wiring in case you have to change or add to your initial
wiring installation. Final rivet the floor as late in the building process
as possible.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV8-List: RV8 floors
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Usually if something is real hard, then I must
> be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
> on doing the rear floors correctly?
>
> The manual says it's not easy, but they will
> go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
> whole cabin before I get them in.
>
> Has anyone done something different, like cut
> the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
> it be better to use platenuts all around,
> instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
> need to get in there sometime down the road...
>
> Thanks for any hints!
>
> Mickey
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV8-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
I have seen people use plate nuts there. I did not. I went the easy way. The
floors were a bitch to get in and out, but it can be done. Grind or file a
bit of the forward bulkhead bottom a bit if you can. Also I notched my
floors a bit to go around the vertical bulkhead. It woked great and you cant
see it when the floor is in place.
Al Grajek
>From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>Reply-To: rv8-list@matronics.com
>To: rv8-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: RV8 floors
>Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 17:13:34 +0100
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Usually if something is real hard, then I must
>be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
>on doing the rear floors correctly?
>
>The manual says it's not easy, but they will
>go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
>whole cabin before I get them in.
>
>Has anyone done something different, like cut
>the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
>it be better to use platenuts all around,
>instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
>need to get in there sometime down the road...
>
>Thanks for any hints!
>
>Mickey
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Optimize your Internet experience to the max with the new MSN Premium
Internet Software. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200359ave/direct/01/
Message 4
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--> RV8-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Just pay real close attention when installing them as to exactly what you
did. The second time will be MUCH eaisier and third and fourth....... I
also trimed the fuse porition that was interfearing slightly. I recommend
putting on the floor stiffners before installing the floor for the last
time.....this makes it even more fun!!
At 02:12 PM 2/12/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
>
>I have seen people use plate nuts there. I did not. I went the easy way. The
>floors were a bitch to get in and out, but it can be done. Grind or file a
>bit of the forward bulkhead bottom a bit if you can. Also I notched my
>floors a bit to go around the vertical bulkhead. It woked great and you cant
>see it when the floor is in place.
>Al Grajek
>
>
>>From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>>Reply-To: rv8-list@matronics.com
>>To: rv8-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV8-List: RV8 floors
>>Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 17:13:34 +0100
>>
>>--> RV8-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>>
>>Usually if something is real hard, then I must
>>be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
>>on doing the rear floors correctly?
>>
>>The manual says it's not easy, but they will
>>go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
>>whole cabin before I get them in.
>>
>>Has anyone done something different, like cut
>>the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
>>it be better to use platenuts all around,
>>instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
>>need to get in there sometime down the road...
>>
>>Thanks for any hints!
>>
>>Mickey
>>
>>
>>--
>>Mickey Coggins
>>http://www.rv8.ch/
>>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>>
>>
>
>Optimize your Internet experience to the max with the new MSN Premium
>Internet Software. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200359ave/direct/01/
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 5
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--> RV8-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
Hello,
I agree with Doug. Wait till last minute then pop rivet the rear floor pieces using
the flexible black plastic conduit for
any runs. Besides, you answered your own question as yes, it is a pain getting
the rear floors in place.
You wouldn't put anything there anyway as 'ease of maintenance' should be a construction
goal and that can be handled more
easily without putting in all those time consuming platenuts. Besides, you'll cover
the floor with seats and
mats(carpeting).
I wouldn't use pop rivets where regular rivets are called for but conversely, I
wouldn't waste my time on platenuts when
pop rivets are specifically called for.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
Aerosport and Lightspeed, but still procrastinating on the canopy!
.
--> RV8-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Usually if something is real hard, then I must
be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
on doing the rear floors correctly?
The manual says it's not easy, but they will
go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
whole cabin before I get them in.
Has anyone done something different, like cut
the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
it be better to use platenuts all around,
instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
need to get in there sometime down the road...
Thanks for any hints!
Mickey
Message 6
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--> RV8-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
you can use structural pop rivets, especially cherry max type rivets for
annoying jobs like riveting in the floor stiffeners they tell you to rivet after
floors are installed.
Message 7
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--> RV8-List message posted by: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear@klondiker.com>
I zinc chromated, cut three small inspection openings under the rear seat,
then riveted the suckers down. All wires run through conduit on right side.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV8-List: RV8 floors
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Usually if something is real hard, then I must
> be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
> on doing the rear floors correctly?
>
> The manual says it's not easy, but they will
> go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
> whole cabin before I get them in.
>
> Has anyone done something different, like cut
> the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
> it be better to use platenuts all around,
> instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
> need to get in there sometime down the road...
>
> Thanks for any hints!
>
> Mickey
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 8
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"Rv8-List" <rv8-list@matronics.com>, "Rv7-List" <rv7-list@matronics.com>,
"Rv6-List" <rv6-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Wire Sizes in the wing |
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Guys,
Just a quick note about something that I've seen in the past month or two
that is a little confusing. I've had no less than at least 6 people ask me
for some AWG10 wire to use in their wings. Seems someone "out there" has
recommened AWG10 or AWG12 for running to the landing lights.
To anyone who is currently wiring your plane, don't fall into the trap that
some people do.....that being "if some is perfect, more must be better" -
with wire sizes, this is just a huge waste of money, weight, resources,
etc.. If the recommened wire is AWG16 or AWG18, there is NO reason to use
an AWG10.
Just a quick FYI, an AWG10 wire running the approximate length of a RVxx
wing, will carry something in the area of 800+ Watts. Who has a landing
light requiring that much power?!?! Heck, an AWG16 wire should carry well
over 180 Watts in that length.
Here's the simple breakdown before adding in resistance per 1K.
AWG10 - 70amps current carrying capacity
AWG12 - 50amps
AWG14 - 40amps
So, if you are one of those people running those huge AWG10 wires to your
wingtips, ask yourselves why?!? Two big reasons NOT to are:
1). Cost--AWG16-18 averages around $.17/ft & AWG10 is around $.50/ft (300%
higher).
2). Weight--AWG16-18 averages .005 lbs/ft, where AWG10 = .03lbs/ft.
Meaning, for an average set of wings at 2 wires x 18' = 36' x 2 wings = 72'
of wire. At AWG16 or 18 the weight would only be about 8oz's total. AWG10
would be over 2 POUNDS!!
Anyway, sorry about the rant...I just thought it might be a good idea to
bring this to the surface. Somehow, somewhere, there is a movement to put
fat wires into the wings, and I don't know why. If you are one of those
people, please enlighten me and the rest of us!
FYI, I do have AWG12 on up, and will stock some AWG10 in the future, but in
all reality, there isn't much need for it.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
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