Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:54 AM - deburring the canopy edges (RV8ter@aol.com)
2. 05:21 AM - Re: deburring the canopy edges (Doug Ripley)
3. 05:39 AM - Re: deburring the canopy edges (lucky macy)
4. 06:06 AM - Re: deburring the canopy edges (Doug Ripley)
5. 02:20 PM - Re: RV-List: deburring the canopy edges (Jim Sears)
6. 05:52 PM - Re: Re: RV-List: deburring the canopy edges (lucky macy)
Message 1
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| Subject: | deburring the canopy edges |
--> RV8-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and tools/techniques are
folks using?
Touch up edges after each and every cut before each trial fit or only after the
last or nearly last cut/fit?
Is the issue that it could crack just handling it or sitting on its own weight
if laid on the unfinished edges?
thx,
lucky
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: deburring the canopy edges |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Doug Ripley" <dougr@hurricanefilter.com>
With a name like lucky, don't worry about it!
Seriously, you should debur after every cut. I used my belt sander, then
400 grit. Take out the sharp corners, like where you stop cutting and start
again....usually a sharp one there. I cracked 2 while building my Midget
Mustang, so I'm a pro at screwing them up. What I learned is that it will
crack when you handle it....picking it up and putting it on the fuselage for
trial fit after the cut. Both of mine cracked where my hand was when I
grabbed it. I was lazy and didn't de-burr the edges before handling it for
trial fit.
Deburr the edges
handle with care
get it warm!!! On my -8, I used a torpedo heater to get the canopy temp up
around 100 degrees. This may be overkill, but I knew what it was like to
break one, and I NEVER want to do that again!!!!!
BTW......I used a uni-bit to open the holes from #40 to the correct
over-size. Worked great. DO NOT USE A STANDARD DRILL BIT BEYOND THE #40!!!
You have a 99.9% chance of cracking if you do.
If you do all this, and you still crack it, change your name.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges
> --> RV8-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and
tools/techniques are folks using?
>
> Touch up edges after each and every cut before each trial fit or only
after the last or nearly last cut/fit?
>
> Is the issue that it could crack just handling it or sitting on its own
weight if laid on the unfinished edges?
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: deburring the canopy edges |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Thanks. I'll fire up the belt sander from now on.
I'm using a 1/4 inch canopy from Todd's and have trial fit it a couple of
times after cuts so far without doing any edge dressing nor have I been
using a space heater religously so I guess I'm either lucky or good :-)
lucky
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr@hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Doug Ripley" <dougr@hurricanefilter.com>
With a name like lucky, don't worry about it!
Seriously, you should debur after every cut. I used my belt sander, then
400 grit. Take out the sharp corners, like where you stop cutting and start
again....usually a sharp one there. I cracked 2 while building my Midget
Mustang, so I'm a pro at screwing them up. What I learned is that it will
crack when you handle it....picking it up and putting it on the fuselage for
trial fit after the cut. Both of mine cracked where my hand was when I
grabbed it. I was lazy and didn't de-burr the edges before handling it for
trial fit.
Deburr the edges
handle with care
get it warm!!! On my -8, I used a torpedo heater to get the canopy temp up
around 100 degrees. This may be overkill, but I knew what it was like to
break one, and I NEVER want to do that again!!!!!
BTW......I used a uni-bit to open the holes from #40 to the correct
over-size. Worked great. DO NOT USE A STANDARD DRILL BIT BEYOND THE #40!!!
You have a 99.9% chance of cracking if you do.
If you do all this, and you still crack it, change your name.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges
> --> RV8-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and
tools/techniques are folks using?
>
> Touch up edges after each and every cut before each trial fit or only
after the last or nearly last cut/fit?
>
> Is the issue that it could crack just handling it or sitting on its own
weight if laid on the unfinished edges?
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: deburring the canopy edges |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Doug Ripley" <dougr@hurricanefilter.com>
Little of both.....no matter how good you are, you still need a little luck
to get through the canopy with no troubles!
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> Thanks. I'll fire up the belt sander from now on.
>
> I'm using a 1/4 inch canopy from Todd's and have trial fit it a couple of
> times after cuts so far without doing any edge dressing nor have I been
> using a space heater religously so I guess I'm either lucky or good :-)
>
>
> lucky
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr@hurricanefilter.com>
> To: <rv8-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges
> Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 08:18:33 -0400
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Doug Ripley" <dougr@hurricanefilter.com>
>
> With a name like lucky, don't worry about it!
> Seriously, you should debur after every cut. I used my belt sander, then
> 400 grit. Take out the sharp corners, like where you stop cutting and
start
> again....usually a sharp one there. I cracked 2 while building my Midget
> Mustang, so I'm a pro at screwing them up. What I learned is that it will
> crack when you handle it....picking it up and putting it on the fuselage
for
> trial fit after the cut. Both of mine cracked where my hand was when I
> grabbed it. I was lazy and didn't de-burr the edges before handling it
for
> trial fit.
>
> Deburr the edges
> handle with care
> get it warm!!! On my -8, I used a torpedo heater to get the canopy temp
up
> around 100 degrees. This may be overkill, but I knew what it was like to
> break one, and I NEVER want to do that again!!!!!
>
> BTW......I used a uni-bit to open the holes from #40 to the correct
> over-size. Worked great. DO NOT USE A STANDARD DRILL BIT BEYOND THE
#40!!!
> You have a 99.9% chance of cracking if you do.
>
> If you do all this, and you still crack it, change your name.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv8-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges
>
>
> > --> RV8-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
> >
> > How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and
> tools/techniques are folks using?
> >
> > Touch up edges after each and every cut before each trial fit or only
> after the last or nearly last cut/fit?
> >
> > Is the issue that it could crack just handling it or sitting on its own
> weight if laid on the unfinished edges?
> >
> > thx,
> > lucky
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: deburring the canopy edges |
--> RV8-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and
tools/techniques
> are folks using?
I sand the edges after each cut. I don't polish them; but, I do get rid of
the ragged edges. I also work in temps above 80F. I've only dealt with
the -6 and -9 canopies; so, it may be overkill for the -8 canopies. Mine
haven't cracked during construction, though. I must admit that my -6A
canopy has cracked at both rear corners due to my carelessness. Anyway,
I've seen old Pat Patterson wrestle with canopies and never sand between
fittings. I don't have the good luck he has, though. I did learn one
little trick on the last one I did. I used a hand held belt sander to go
over the edges. I ran the belt parallel with the edge and got rid of rough
edges very fast. I could also use it to help shape the canopy. I'm
buying one for my own canopy, this time.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Painting new shop. Waiting for wings)
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: deburring the canopy edges |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Thanks to all who've replied, I have a hand held belt sander and will use it
w/ 80 grit paper before I do anything else.
----Original Message Follows----
From: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-List: deburring the canopy edges
--> RV8-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and
tools/techniques
> are folks using?
I sand the edges after each cut. I don't polish them; but, I do get rid of
the ragged edges. I also work in temps above 80F. I've only dealt with
the -6 and -9 canopies; so, it may be overkill for the -8 canopies. Mine
haven't cracked during construction, though. I must admit that my -6A
canopy has cracked at both rear corners due to my carelessness. Anyway,
I've seen old Pat Patterson wrestle with canopies and never sand between
fittings. I don't have the good luck he has, though. I did learn one
little trick on the last one I did. I used a hand held belt sander to go
over the edges. I ran the belt parallel with the edge and got rid of rough
edges very fast. I could also use it to help shape the canopy. I'm
buying one for my own canopy, this time.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Painting new shop. Waiting for wings)
EAA Tech Counselor
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