Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:12 AM - canopy frame rear bow/Canopy fit (RV8ter@aol.com)
2. 12:56 PM - RV8 canopy frame rear bow/Canopy fit (RV8ter@aol.com)
3. 03:09 PM - RV-8 flap motor rubs (GEORGE INMAN)
4. 07:41 PM - Re: RV-8 flap motor rubs (Ken Dominy)
5. 08:12 PM - Re: RV-8 flap motor rubs (Jim Daniels)
Message 1
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| Subject: | canopy frame rear bow/Canopy fit |
--> RV8-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
The plans show the canopy frame rear bow 3/4 to 5/8's inch above the slider.
Once I put the canopy on it drops down to about 1/16 inch above the slider.
If I double the height before the attaching the canopy it looks like it's
going to make the rear canopy frame fit even worse to the canopy. But that's
what I should do, more or less, right?
Speaking of poor fits. I've stopped taking anything off the rear after just
one initial cut and am just taking off the front for now. But I can see one
really bad area that doesn't appear to be getting any better.
Where the canopy frame starts to taper inwards near the rear 25% section of
the canopy frame, the canopy doesn't narrow nearly as sharply. I'd say there's
up to a one inch space on each side between the canopy and rail back there
before the very rear of the canopy eventually comes to rest on top of the canopy
frame rear bow. The canopy sides further forward where the front and rear
cockpits are matchup pretty good, for what that's worth.
Is this common? I can't see any improvement back there based upon what I've
been trimming off the front so far. I don't have much to trim off in the
back. The canopy leading edge is sitting 3.25 inches aft of the instrument panel
face as the plans call for. But experimenting with sliding the canopy slight
fore and aft doesn't appear to actually help any. The gaps are just so big.
thx,
lucky
Message 2
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| Subject: | RV8 canopy frame rear bow/Canopy fit |
--> RV8-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
In a message dated 5/15/2004 9:08:57 AM Eastern Standard Time, RV8ter writes:
The plans show the canopy frame rear bow 3/4 to 5/8's inch above the slider.
Once I put the canopy on it drops down to about 1/16 inch above the slider.
If I double the height before the attaching the canopy it looks like it's
going to make the rear canopy frame fit even worse to the canopy. But that's
what I should do, more or less, right?
Speaking of poor fits. I've stopped taking anything off the rear after just
one initial cut and am just taking off the front for now. But I can see one
really bad area that doesn't appear to be getting any better.
Where the canopy frame starts to taper inwards near the rear 25% section of
the canopy frame, the canopy doesn't narrow nearly as sharply. I'd say there's
up to a one inch space on each side between the canopy and rail back there
before the very rear of the canopy eventually comes to rest on top of the canopy
frame rear bow. The canopy sides further forward where the front and rear
cockpits are matchup pretty good, for what that's worth.
Is this common? I can't see any improvement back there based upon what I've
been trimming off the front so far. I don't have much to trim off in the
back. The canopy leading edge is sitting 3.25 inches aft of the instrument panel
face as the plans call for. But experimenting with sliding the canopy slight
fore and aft doesn't appear to actually help any. The gaps are just so big.
thx,
lucky
From: RV8ter@aol.com
Subject: canopy frame rear bow/Canopy fit
-------------------------------1084626537
The plans show the canopy frame rear bow 3/4 to 5/8's inch above the slider.
Once I put the canopy on it drops down to about 1/16 inch above the slider.
If I double the height before the attaching the canopy it looks like it's
going to make the rear canopy frame fit even worse to the canopy. But that's
what I should do, more or less, right?
Speaking of poor fits. I've stopped taking anything off the rear after just
one initial cut and am just taking off the front for now. But I can see one
really bad area that doesn't appear to be getting any better.
Where the canopy frame starts to taper inwards near the rear 25% section of
the canopy frame, the canopy doesn't narrow nearly as sharply. I'd say there's
up to a one inch space on each side between the canopy and rail back there
before the very rear of the canopy eventually comes to rest on top of the canopy
frame rear bow. The canopy sides further forward where the front and rear
cockpits are matchup pretty good, for what that's worth.
Is this common? I can't see any improvement back there based upon what I've
been trimming off the front so far. I don't have much to trim off in the
back. The canopy leading edge is sitting 3.25 inches aft of the instrument panel
face as the plans call for. But experimenting with sliding the canopy slight
fore and aft doesn't appear to actually help any. The gaps are just so big.
thx,
lucky
-------------------------------1084626537
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2737.800" nameGENERATOR>
The plans show thecanopy frame rearbow 3/4 to 5/8's inch above the slider. Once
I put the canopy on it drops down to about 1/16 inch above the slider.
If I double the height before the attaching the canopy it looks like it's going
to make the rear canopy frame fit even worse to the canopy. But that's what I
should do, more or less, right?
Speaking of poor fits. I've stopped taking anything off the rear=20after just one
initial cut and am just taking off the front for now. But I can see one really
bad area that doesn't appear to be getting any better.
Where the canopy frame starts to taper inwards near the rear 25% section of the
canopy frame, the canopy doesn't narrow nearly as sharply. I'd say there's up
to a one inch space on each side betweenthe canopy and rail back there before
the very rear of the canopy eventually comes to rest on top of the canopy frame
rear bow.The canopy sides further forward where the front and rear cockpits
are matchup pretty good, for what that's=20worth.
Is this common? I can't see any improvement back there based upon what I've been
trimming off the front so far. I don't have much to trim off in the back. The
canopy leading edgeis sitting 3.25 inches aft of the instrument panel face as
the plans call for. But experimenting with sliding the canopy slight fore and
aft doesn't appear to actually help any. The gaps are just so big.
thx,
lucky
-------------------------------1084626537--
Message 3
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| Subject: | RV-8 flap motor rubs |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman@allstream.net>
I am installing my flap motor,
on my RV-8 quick build,
and have a problem with the flap motor
rubbing on the F-876PP-L aft cabin cover.
I may need another 1/4" clearance.
I have not yet installed the wings
and flaps.
Have others had this problem?
And if so how did they fix it?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman@allstream.net
Message 4
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| Subject: | RV-8 flap motor rubs |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney@excite.com>
I had the same problem. I placed the nutplates as directed in the flooring, and found when instaling the rear side panel, the flap motor rubbed against the panel. A call to Van's did not yield a solution, as the flap motor is made one way, and you cannot obtain a flap motor with the motor offset on the opposite side. I solved my problem by filing the sides of the trunion (pivot point) below the motor from round to flat, and installing spacer washers to move the trunion outboard. It now clears the panel. you don't really lose much strength by filing the round trunion to flat on the sides.--- On Sat 05/15, GEORGE INMAN ghinman@allstream.net wrote:From: GEORGE INMAN [mailto: ghinman@allstream.net]To: rv8-list@matronics.comDate: Sat, 15 May 2004 17:06:10 -0500Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 flap motor rubs-- RV8-List message posted by: "GEORGE INMAN" I am installing my flap motor,on my RV-8 quick build,and have a problem with the flap motorrubbing on the F-876PP-L aft
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 flap motor rubs |
--> RV8-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
> Have others had this problem?
Yep, pretty common actually. Another one of those things that should
have been addressed long ago.
> And if so how did they fix it?
I chopped the mounting tab off the end of the flap weldment, fabricated
a new one from 4130 steel, and had it welded on about 1/4" outboard. I
had gobs of room outboard, but could find no other way to keep from
hitting the inboard cover plate since the interference was also at the
very top of the travel and moving the cover bottom mounting holes in
did no good.
Jim Daniels
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