Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:27 AM - aileron rivets (Greg@itmack)
2. 04:05 AM - Re: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions (Stephen J. Soule)
3. 04:07 AM - Re: aileron rivets (Stephen J. Soule)
4. 02:40 PM - Powder coating, spiral wrap and a pre-oiler (David Paule)
Message 1
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| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Riveting the counterbalance pipe to the leading edge of the aileron and half way
through it I noticed that I was using LP4-3 rivets instead of CS4-4. They both
have a similar grip but the LP4-3 is not a flush rivet.
If I leave the LP4-3 rivets in am I right thinking that thay can't be seen once
the aileron is installed on the wing? The only other problem could be if the
LP4-3 rivets will rub or catch on the wing when attached, is that likely?
On another subject I used the proseal technique that Charles suggested for the
leading edge of the aileron and they came out really well. Thanks Charles.
Greg
Message 2
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| Subject: | Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule@pfclaw.com>
Ted,
Thanks for the reference to CAF - I was not aware of the series. I printed
them and will study them.
The attraction of EI for me is not increased performance per se, but the
elimination of breaker points, use of lower cost auto plugs and ease of
timing.
Steve
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted P Utley
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
--> RV8-List message posted by: Ted P Utley <tpu2@juno.com>
The gear is really a no-brainer to obtain. Call ANY shop in TAP and they
will sell you one. Ebay has one at least every week or so. A parts catalog
for $15.00, along with an overhaul manual for $20.00 are items it would be
almost impossible to live without.
As for Lightspeed or Emag, I would very carefully read the CAFE foundation
series on electronic vs mag. I have completely dropped my desire for EI due
to their research and some of my own. I hate to get flamed on this, but
alot of the BS about EI on slow turning AC engines is in opinion just that.
The upside is that you can get an IO-360 200HP engine to run smoothly on 8
gallons an hour. The downside is realizing that an 0320 might do the same
thing, and we know most RVs fly just fine on that engine....
I'll stick with the higher top speed and power of mags.
Message 3
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--> RV8-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule@pfclaw.com>
Greg,
The rivets can be seen by a person under the aircraft when the nose of the
aileron is in the down position. In my opinion, the rivets (1) might be
noticed by a nosy builder snooping around to see how you did your gear leg
fairings or something, and (2) are not likely to rub or catch on anything.
Steve Soule
RV-6A N227RV flying
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
-----Original Message-----
Riveting the counterbalance pipe to the leading edge of the aileron and half
way through it I noticed that I was using LP4-3 rivets instead of CS4-4.
They both have a similar grip but the LP4-3 is not a flush rivet.
If I leave the LP4-3 rivets in am I right thinking that thay can't be seen
once the aileron is installed on the wing? The only other problem could be
if the LP4-3 rivets will rub or catch on the wing when attached, is that
likely?
Message 4
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| Subject: | Powder coating, spiral wrap and a pre-oiler |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "David Paule" <dpaule@frii.com>
Hi, Everyone,
I don't have an RV - but I do have a Cessna 180, and about ten years ago I
did a major FWF rebuild on Big Hammer. There are a few points relating to
that which may prove of interest to you.
1. I used some nylon spiral-wrap to protect a number of wires in the engine
bay. The spiral-wrap closest to the exhaust manifold melted around the
wires. It's safe, and still provides excellent protection, but can't be
removed and it's unsightly. It has not melted more - that is, the initial
meltdown seems to have been all that's happened. There is a high-temperature
version available from www.mcmaster.com, which should be adequate. Look on
page 702 on their on-line catalog for the PTFE version, in clear and black,
various sizes.
2. I took the opportunity to remove the main landing gear legs and have them
checked for cracks. Then I had them powder-coated, along with the baffles
and the engine mount and the spinner bulkhead. The powder coating was a
custom job, done very carefully and with all the appropriate process steps
included. Here are the results, ten years later:
The baffles are holding up perfectly. That surprised me, since I thought
that vibration or chafe would do them in.
The spinner bulkhead was lost in a stupid mishap during the first month of
operation. It would embarrass me to describe it, so I won't. But the
non-flight incident had nothing to do with the powder coating, which
survived.
The engine mount is intact with no cracks in the paint anywhere, in spite of
numerous things clamped or screwed to the mount. However, the custom color
is discolored in some areas that are close to the exhaust, in spite of the
heat shields. I don't know if that would have happened if the exhaust system
had been wrapped in insulation, but it is bare.
The landing gear legs are generally still okay. There's a dimple in the legs
where a brake line bracket snaps on, and I foolishly used that bracket for
about four years. The paint cracked there, and on my last preflight I
noticed a trace of corrosion there. There are a number of small chips in the
pain where the legs had been struck by rocks tossed up from the prop (I
don't always use pavement, and for that matter, don't always use airports.)
There is no corrosion on any of those. In retrospect, I should have removed
the brake line clip permanently when I painted the legs, and added some sort
of gravel barrier, like a clear tape or something (maybe a fiberglass
fairing....) to the leading edge.
3. I installed an engine pre-oiler. This one, by www.oilamatic.com, has
proved to be an excellent device, requiring no maintenance and working quite
reliably. I use it on start-up and on shut-down, even though it's not
certified for operation during engine operation. I've noticed that if I
don't use it on shut-down, that the oil pressure fades off before the prop
stops. If I use it, the prop hits the final compression stroke and bounces
back before stopping. I can feel the difference if I pressurize the system
in the hangar and move the prop. Also, I can use it after an oil and filter
change to pressurize the system before starting the engine, both for a leak
check and to avoid running the motor while the new filter is filling. This
device is a must-have, in my opinion.
I have no connection with either McMaster-Carr or Oilamatic, outside of
being a happy customer.
I'm sending this to the RV-8 list and the more general RV list, so if you're
on both and get two copies, that's why. My apologies.
Dave Paule
Cessna 180 "Big Hammer"
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