---------------------------------------------------------- RV8-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 01/03/05: 4 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:27 AM - aileron rivets (Greg@itmack) 2. 04:05 AM - Re: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions (Stephen J. Soule) 3. 04:07 AM - Re: aileron rivets (Stephen J. Soule) 4. 02:40 PM - Powder coating, spiral wrap and a pre-oiler (David Paule) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:27:46 AM PST US From: "Greg@itmack" Subject: RV8-List: aileron rivets --> RV8-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" Riveting the counterbalance pipe to the leading edge of the aileron and half way through it I noticed that I was using LP4-3 rivets instead of CS4-4. They both have a similar grip but the LP4-3 is not a flush rivet. If I leave the LP4-3 rivets in am I right thinking that thay can't be seen once the aileron is installed on the wing? The only other problem could be if the LP4-3 rivets will rub or catch on the wing when attached, is that likely? On another subject I used the proseal technique that Charles suggested for the leading edge of the aileron and they came out really well. Thanks Charles. Greg ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:05:07 AM PST US From: "Stephen J. Soule" Subject: RE: RV8-List: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions --> RV8-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" Ted, Thanks for the reference to CAF - I was not aware of the series. I printed them and will study them. The attraction of EI for me is not increased performance per se, but the elimination of breaker points, use of lower cost auto plugs and ease of timing. Steve Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted P Utley Subject: Re: RV8-List: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions --> RV8-List message posted by: Ted P Utley The gear is really a no-brainer to obtain. Call ANY shop in TAP and they will sell you one. Ebay has one at least every week or so. A parts catalog for $15.00, along with an overhaul manual for $20.00 are items it would be almost impossible to live without. As for Lightspeed or Emag, I would very carefully read the CAFE foundation series on electronic vs mag. I have completely dropped my desire for EI due to their research and some of my own. I hate to get flamed on this, but alot of the BS about EI on slow turning AC engines is in opinion just that. The upside is that you can get an IO-360 200HP engine to run smoothly on 8 gallons an hour. The downside is realizing that an 0320 might do the same thing, and we know most RVs fly just fine on that engine.... I'll stick with the higher top speed and power of mags. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:07:06 AM PST US From: "Stephen J. Soule" Subject: RE: RV8-List: aileron rivets --> RV8-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" Greg, The rivets can be seen by a person under the aircraft when the nose of the aileron is in the down position. In my opinion, the rivets (1) might be noticed by a nosy builder snooping around to see how you did your gear leg fairings or something, and (2) are not likely to rub or catch on anything. Steve Soule RV-6A N227RV flying RV-8 N222SZ under construction -----Original Message----- Riveting the counterbalance pipe to the leading edge of the aileron and half way through it I noticed that I was using LP4-3 rivets instead of CS4-4. They both have a similar grip but the LP4-3 is not a flush rivet. If I leave the LP4-3 rivets in am I right thinking that thay can't be seen once the aileron is installed on the wing? The only other problem could be if the LP4-3 rivets will rub or catch on the wing when attached, is that likely? ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 02:40:44 PM PST US From: "David Paule" Subject: RV8-List: Powder coating, spiral wrap and a pre-oiler --> RV8-List message posted by: "David Paule" Hi, Everyone, I don't have an RV - but I do have a Cessna 180, and about ten years ago I did a major FWF rebuild on Big Hammer. There are a few points relating to that which may prove of interest to you. 1. I used some nylon spiral-wrap to protect a number of wires in the engine bay. The spiral-wrap closest to the exhaust manifold melted around the wires. It's safe, and still provides excellent protection, but can't be removed and it's unsightly. It has not melted more - that is, the initial meltdown seems to have been all that's happened. There is a high-temperature version available from www.mcmaster.com, which should be adequate. Look on page 702 on their on-line catalog for the PTFE version, in clear and black, various sizes. 2. I took the opportunity to remove the main landing gear legs and have them checked for cracks. Then I had them powder-coated, along with the baffles and the engine mount and the spinner bulkhead. The powder coating was a custom job, done very carefully and with all the appropriate process steps included. Here are the results, ten years later: The baffles are holding up perfectly. That surprised me, since I thought that vibration or chafe would do them in. The spinner bulkhead was lost in a stupid mishap during the first month of operation. It would embarrass me to describe it, so I won't. But the non-flight incident had nothing to do with the powder coating, which survived. The engine mount is intact with no cracks in the paint anywhere, in spite of numerous things clamped or screwed to the mount. However, the custom color is discolored in some areas that are close to the exhaust, in spite of the heat shields. I don't know if that would have happened if the exhaust system had been wrapped in insulation, but it is bare. The landing gear legs are generally still okay. There's a dimple in the legs where a brake line bracket snaps on, and I foolishly used that bracket for about four years. The paint cracked there, and on my last preflight I noticed a trace of corrosion there. There are a number of small chips in the pain where the legs had been struck by rocks tossed up from the prop (I don't always use pavement, and for that matter, don't always use airports.) There is no corrosion on any of those. In retrospect, I should have removed the brake line clip permanently when I painted the legs, and added some sort of gravel barrier, like a clear tape or something (maybe a fiberglass fairing....) to the leading edge. 3. I installed an engine pre-oiler. This one, by www.oilamatic.com, has proved to be an excellent device, requiring no maintenance and working quite reliably. I use it on start-up and on shut-down, even though it's not certified for operation during engine operation. I've noticed that if I don't use it on shut-down, that the oil pressure fades off before the prop stops. If I use it, the prop hits the final compression stroke and bounces back before stopping. I can feel the difference if I pressurize the system in the hangar and move the prop. Also, I can use it after an oil and filter change to pressurize the system before starting the engine, both for a leak check and to avoid running the motor while the new filter is filling. This device is a must-have, in my opinion. I have no connection with either McMaster-Carr or Oilamatic, outside of being a happy customer. I'm sending this to the RV-8 list and the more general RV list, so if you're on both and get two copies, that's why. My apologies. Dave Paule Cessna 180 "Big Hammer"