Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:21 AM - Re: Canopy sealing woes ... (Michel Gordillo)
2. 05:04 AM - Re: Canopy sealing woes ... (Larry Bowen)
3. 05:12 AM - Re: Canopy sealing woes ... (Bryan Jones)
4. 05:15 AM - Re: Canopy sealing woes ... (Mickey Coggins)
5. 12:51 PM - Re: Canopy sealing woes ... (Michel Gordillo)
6. 08:18 PM - Canopy sealing woes (jim & terri truitt)
7. 08:43 PM - Attaching flaps (Greg@itmack)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes ... |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo@telefonica.net>
Even though I am on the early building of my RV8, I plan to fly it in very
cold temperatures.
So I was concerned about a crack on the Jon Johanson canopy when flying over
the North Pole.
I was lucky to meet him last year at Oshkosh.
He told me that when the canopy is formed, a lot of stress is put on it and
when the temperature changes, tensions appears everywhere.
I think that those tensions warp the canopy.
Jon did put the canopy in an oven with controlled temperature, and was able
to release all the stress on it ( like torch heating after TIG welding).
I dont have the parameteres and times that he used, but I will ask him once
the canopy is built.
May be it is one way to go.
Michel
----- Original Message -----
From: <N8RV@gte.net>
<RV-8@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes ...
> --> RV8-List message posted by: N8RV@gte.net
>
> OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan
> at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt
> warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying,
> right?
>
> Well, I have a question for everybody ...
>
> Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull
> the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and
> latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage
> the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy
> closed and tight to the fuse?
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated ...
>
> -- Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes ... |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I've had limited success with adhesive felt, about 1/8" thick. Normally
used on the bottom of lamps or bookends.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Bill VonDane said:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
>
> I have been thinking about this and was out looking at the plane tonight,
> and I think if we could come up with a piece of foam to take up all the
> space from the rear of the canopy frame weldment back to the back of the
> canopy skirt it would solve all the air leaks back there... Kinda like
> what
> Brian said about stuffing a blanket or jacket back there... Something
> soft
> that compresses easily so it wont hold the back of the canopy up, but will
> expand to keep it sealed during expansion / contraction...
>
> I am going to experiment...
>
> -Bill
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <N8RV@gte.net>
> To: "RV-8 List (Matronics)" <rv8-list@matronics.com>; "RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
> <RV-8@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes ...
>
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: N8RV@gte.net
>
> OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan
> at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt
> warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying,
> right?
>
> Well, I have a question for everybody ...
>
> Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull
> the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and
> latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage
> the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy
> closed and tight to the fuse?
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated ...
>
> -- Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Canopy sealing woes ... |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
No complaints here. I'm at something like 699 hrs and have 2-3 instances
where I had a backseater and it was too cool for comfort. I just try and
remember to bring a jacket or two for the backseater.
Besides, I'm not so sure it's a matter of bending or warping with temp. As
a matter of fact, I doubt seriously that temp causes me any problem. To
little difference to move it more than 5-10 thousanths of an inch. Now
pressure differences might displace it. But I really believe most of my air
comes through the fairly generous aft slide rail cutout in the back of the
skirt.
Might be nice to have a better fit, but I sure enjoy the air circulation 95%
of the time here in S Texas.
Bryan Jones
Houston
do not archive
>
>OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan
>at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt
>warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying,
>right?
>
>Well, I have a question for everybody ...
>
>Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull
>the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and
>latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage
>the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy
>closed and tight to the fuse?
>
>Any thoughts would be appreciated ...
>
>-- Don McNamara
> N8RV
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes ... |
--> RV8-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Michel,
Instead of using rivets and screws on the canopy, gluing
it on should greatly reduce the likelihood of cracking. This
is what I plan to do, and others have done with great success.
Mickey
Michel Gordillo wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo@telefonica.net>
>
> Even though I am on the early building of my RV8, I plan to fly it in very
> cold temperatures.
> So I was concerned about a crack on the Jon Johanson canopy when flying over
> the North Pole.
> I was lucky to meet him last year at Oshkosh.
> He told me that when the canopy is formed, a lot of stress is put on it and
> when the temperature changes, tensions appears everywhere.
> I think that those tensions warp the canopy.
> Jon did put the canopy in an oven with controlled temperature, and was able
> to release all the stress on it ( like torch heating after TIG welding).
> I dont have the parameteres and times that he used, but I will ask him once
> the canopy is built.
> May be it is one way to go.
> Michel
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes ... |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo@telefonica.net>
I plan to do the same, Mike, and also the ....oven.
Problem is that the flexible glue I plan to use, is limited to -40
Centigrade.
My actual plane ( MCR 01) has the canopy glued also.
Best regards.
Michel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes ...
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi Michel,
>
> Instead of using rivets and screws on the canopy, gluing
> it on should greatly reduce the likelihood of cracking. This
> is what I plan to do, and others have done with great success.
>
> Mickey
>
> Michel Gordillo wrote:
>> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Michel Gordillo"
>> <michelgordillo@telefonica.net>
>>
>> Even though I am on the early building of my RV8, I plan to fly it in
>> very
>> cold temperatures.
>> So I was concerned about a crack on the Jon Johanson canopy when flying
>> over
>> the North Pole.
>> I was lucky to meet him last year at Oshkosh.
>> He told me that when the canopy is formed, a lot of stress is put on it
>> and
>> when the temperature changes, tensions appears everywhere.
>> I think that those tensions warp the canopy.
>> Jon did put the canopy in an oven with controlled temperature, and was
>> able
>> to release all the stress on it ( like torch heating after TIG welding).
>> I dont have the parameteres and times that he used, but I will ask him
>> once
>> the canopy is built.
>> May be it is one way to go.
>> Michel
>>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Canopy sealing woes |
--> RV8-List message posted by: jim & terri truitt <jimteri1@earthlink.net>
'Bout time somebody started talking about this. I've been thinking about this
for
2 winters now. While weatherstriping and foam work, it really just addresses the
symptoms and not the problem. For whatever reason, the back of the canopy still
raises in flight. I doubt anyone's skirt fits any better than mine on the ground
and mine still has gaps in flight.
My engineer friend John Crabtree and I have pondered this to great extent. We're
not sure why the rear canopy area has gaps - be it lift outside or cabin pressurization
inside or canopy frame flex. Being an engineer, John wants to determine what causes
the gaps first, then formulate a cure. Being a non-engineer, non-builder type,
I just want to fix it.
Together we kind of agree that there needs to be a rear canopy hold down device
of some sort. Something that would engage to hold the canopy frame down when the
canopy is pulled forward, but would not require actively locking it or unlocking
it. We thought of installing fixed, angled metal pieces to the turtle deck, on
both sides of the slide rail, that would engage the rear canopy frame as the canopy
is locked in place - a passive device that would not really LOCK the rear frame
down, but just keep it from rising up. When you slide the canopy to the rear,
the
angled pieces would disengage with the movement. If you're familiar with firearms,
it would work similarly to the angled locking lugs on Sig and Glock barrels.
I even thought of doing the same thing with a second sliding block on the slide
rail. It would be wider than the nylon canopy block so it would rest against fixed
stops on each side. The block would have an angled face to the rear. The rear
canopy frame (or a fixture attached to it) would then engage the angled face of
the block just before the canopy stopped it's foreward movement. Again, not actually
locking the rear canopy down, just keeping it from rising.
Any fresh engineering thoughts out there?
Message 7
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| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Hi all, I'm just about ready to attach my flaps to the wings but I haven't riveted
on the bottom skins yet. Is it necessary to rivet the bottom skins on first
to accurately drill the flap hinge or can I use a heap of clecoes on the skin.
I'd prefer to leave the skins off for as long as possible so I can take longer
to decide on wiring and also I haven't got my pitot tube yet (waiting for the
heated Dynon). It would be good to drill it out now so I can get on with the
countersinking dimpling etc. and then finally prime the flap brace etc. and put
it on the shelf until I'm ready to rivet.
Also which kit has the NACA duct that is glued/riveted under the wing, it would
be nice to put that on now before the skin is riveted on.
Greg
82070
RV8
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