Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:21 AM - Re: Canopy sealing woes (Scott Bilinski)
2. 07:20 AM - Canopy sealing woes5 (Philip Condon)
3. 07:43 AM - Canopy sealing woes5 (Clark, Thomas M UTPWR)
4. 07:55 AM - Re: Attaching flaps (Stephen J. Soule)
5. 08:04 AM - Re: Attaching flaps (Stephen J. Soule)
6. 08:23 AM - Double Sided Tape... (Bill VonDane)
7. 11:13 AM - Re: Double Sided Tape... (Gosh2Fly@aol.com)
8. 11:44 AM - 12v blankets (Bill VonDane)
9. 01:28 PM - -8A upper gear leg fairings... (Bill VonDane)
10. 02:38 PM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape... (Darwin N. Barrie)
11. 06:03 PM - Re: Canopy sealing woes (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
12. 06:51 PM - Re: Double Sided Tape... (Greg V. Miller)
13. 06:55 PM - Re: RV-List: five year RV8 report - gear bolting (John D. Heath)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes |
--> RV8-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I can honestly say my 8 canopy has little to no gaps on the ground or in
flight .020 worst case I have seen, and the temp seems to have little
effect. The skirt fits tight against the fuse and you can hear a good thump
when the canopy is closed. My canopy skirt was molded to the fuse so there
is a perfect fit, but this has added some thickness, so the skirt is about
2x thicker than stock in the back part of the skirt, but it sure hugs the
fuse nicely and I think well worth the extra effort.
At 11:17 PM 1/11/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV8-List message posted by: jim & terri truitt <jimteri1@earthlink.net>
>
>'Bout time somebody started talking about this. I've been thinking about
>this for
>2 winters now. While weatherstriping and foam work, it really just
>addresses the
>symptoms and not the problem. For whatever reason, the back of the canopy
>still
>raises in flight. I doubt anyone's skirt fits any better than mine on the
>ground
>and mine still has gaps in flight.
>My engineer friend John Crabtree and I have pondered this to great
>extent. We're
>not sure why the rear canopy area has gaps - be it lift outside or cabin
>pressurization
>inside or canopy frame flex. Being an engineer, John wants to determine
>what causes
>the gaps first, then formulate a cure. Being a non-engineer, non-builder
>type,
>I just want to fix it.
>Together we kind of agree that there needs to be a rear canopy hold down
>device
>of some sort. Something that would engage to hold the canopy frame down
>when the
>canopy is pulled forward, but would not require actively locking it or
>unlocking
>it. We thought of installing fixed, angled metal pieces to the turtle
>deck, on
>both sides of the slide rail, that would engage the rear canopy frame as
>the canopy
>is locked in place - a passive device that would not really LOCK the rear
>frame
>down, but just keep it from rising up. When you slide the canopy to the
>rear, the
>angled pieces would disengage with the movement. If you're familiar with
>firearms,
>it would work similarly to the angled locking lugs on Sig and Glock barrels.
>I even thought of doing the same thing with a second sliding block on the
>slide
>rail. It would be wider than the nylon canopy block so it would rest
>against fixed
>stops on each side. The block would have an angled face to the rear. The
>rear
>canopy frame (or a fixture attached to it) would then engage the angled
>face of
>the block just before the canopy stopped it's foreward movement. Again,
>not actually
>locking the rear canopy down, just keeping it from rising.
>Any fresh engineering thoughts out there?
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 2
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| Subject: | Canopy sealing woes5 |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Philip Condon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes
Is the lifting of the rear canopy in flight a local low pressure area or a
more (relative) pressure area with in the cockpit area, or combination of
both effects ?
One idea is to modify the turtle deck area like the Harmon Rocket or F-1
Rocket to get rid of the shape that is causing the lifting action.
Another approach is to lessen the internal cockpit pressure with air exits.
Reverse flow household sill plate vents mounted on the inspection plates on
the wing and rear fuse will act as air exits as the aircraft moves thru the
air. This may lessen the lifting effect on the canopy. These sill plate
vents are round, available in many sizes, most hardware stores/Lowes/Home
Depot have them, made of aluminum and if mounted on the aircraft inspection
plates, allow for a easy removal/replacement of the access plate if you
don't want them later.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Canopy sealing woes5 |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark@UTCFuelCells.com>
My RV-8 is a fastback just similar a Harmon Rocket and I have a tight
aluminum skirt. I still get a blast of air coming in at the small opening at
the canopy track on top of the fuselage. So the theory that a modified
turtle deck will change the pressure profile and stop the positive pressure
at that point is not going to help. My solution for this winter is the GIB
gets a small rag to stop the draft after the canopy is closed.
Tom Clark
525TC RV8 Fastback
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip Condon [mailto:pcondon@mitre.org]
Subject: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes5
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Philip Condon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes
Is the lifting of the rear canopy in flight a local low pressure area or a
more (relative) pressure area with in the cockpit area, or combination of
both effects ?
One idea is to modify the turtle deck area like the Harmon Rocket or F-1
Rocket to get rid of the shape that is causing the lifting action.
Another approach is to lessen the internal cockpit pressure with air exits.
Reverse flow household sill plate vents mounted on the inspection plates on
the wing and rear fuse will act as air exits as the aircraft moves thru the
air. This may lessen the lifting effect on the canopy. These sill plate
vents are round, available in many sizes, most hardware stores/Lowes/Home
Depot have them, made of aluminum and if mounted on the aircraft inspection
plates, allow for a easy removal/replacement of the access plate if you
don't want them later.
Message 4
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--> RV8-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule@pfclaw.com>
Greg,
I drilled the flap hinge on my RV-6A (flying) and my RV-8 (not yet flying.)
Seemed to work OK. Ask Van's to get their take on it.
Steve
Swanton, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg@itmack
Hi all, I'm just about ready to attach my flaps to the wings but I haven't
riveted on the bottom skins yet. Is it necessary to rivet the bottom skins
on first to accurately drill the flap hinge
Message 5
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--> RV8-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule@pfclaw.com>
That should read: "I drilled the flap hinge on my RV-6A (flying) and my RV-8
(not yet flying) with the skin clecoed on, not riveted." Actually the
construction manual for the RV-6 might tell you to make sure the skin is NOT
riveted on so that you can more easily line things up.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephen J. Soule
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Attaching flaps
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule@pfclaw.com>
Greg,
I drilled the flap hinge on my RV-6A (flying) and my RV-8 (not yet flying.)
Seemed to work OK. Ask Van's to get their take on it.
Steve
Swanton, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg@itmack
Hi all, I'm just about ready to attach my flaps to the wings but I haven't
riveted on the bottom skins yet. Is it necessary to rivet the bottom skins
on first to accurately drill the flap hinge
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Double Sided Tape... |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV8-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
...not the foam crap!
Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado
www.rv8a.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV8-List message posted by: Gosh2Fly@aol.com
check-out WWW.WINGSANDWHEELS website. Sailplanes use a double sided tape for
the mylar seals on the wings. Ken
Message 8
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vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV8-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
they have a ton of these on ebay for like $20!
http://tinyurl.com/4mxey
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat
How about this heating blanket!?
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12volheathea.html
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Joel Harding
Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat
Another alternative for warming the GIB would be a 12 V heating pad. You could
sit on it, warm the tootsies one at a time, drape it over your head for that chilly
draft on the back of your neck, or just fold it up and use it for a pillow.
I could go on, but you get the idea. The down side is the extra cord floating
around the cabin, but for only forty bucks it might be worth a try. It's on
the same web page Dane mentioned, under Automotive Seat Heaters.
Joel Harding (Still waiting for the paint man to finish)
On Jan 3, 2005, at 6:57 AM, Dane Patterson wrote:
I ordered my rear seat heat kit from Sports Imports LTD.
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/afcarseathea.html
A Two Element kit for the seat bottom and the seat back sells for about $130.00.
They work great for the back seat and my wife is very pleased with them.
I don't think they would work for the front seat. The elements are heating pads
which can be cut in length but not in width. The front seats on an RV-8 are
very narrow, so this could be a problem, unless you wrap the element around
the sides, and maybe the back? The elements go inside the cushion between the
foam seat cushion and the cover, so they aren't really visible. You might want
to order the kit and sent the elements to who ever makes up your seats. Oregon
Aero glues everything together when they make their seats, so if they can
incorporate the heating elements into the seats, it'll save you the trouble
of having to peal the seat covers off the cushions and re-glueing them back down.
Once you have all the drafts from leaking canopy skirts, etc. the electric elements
in the rear seats should provide all the heat necessary for your GIB.
They draw about 3 - 4 Amps until they are warm, and the thermostat cuts down
the current to about 1 - 2 Amps.
David Rogers wrote:
Dane,
Where'd you get them from ? What brand name are they ? details please.
Thanks,
Dave R.
RV-8, Fuselage
N173DR (reserved)
76 Grumman AA-1B/160hp N1649R
-----Original Message-----
From: Dane Patterson [mailto:DanePatterson@charter.net]
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2004 6:35 PM
To: RV-8@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat
I put electric seat heaters in the cushions of the back seat. My wife loves them.
Dane Patterson
On Dec 12, 2004, at 2:42 AM, n767rk wrote:
what have builders done in the past for heat to the back seat of an
RV 8. Ron Korn
=95 To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/
=95 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-8-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | -8A upper gear leg fairings... |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV8-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Anyone have some good ideas / photos of how to attach the upper gear leg
fairings on an -8A?
-Bill
Message 10
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<RV-8@yahoogroups.com>, <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Bill,
If you have a good specialty auto paint and trim place in your area they
will have the stuff for auto trim. I have some and it is great but you've
only got one shot to get it right!!! If you don't have such a place let me
know and I'll pick it up for you.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
<rv-list@matronics.com>; "vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape...
>
>
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
> like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
> ...not the foam crap!
>
> Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - Colorado
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
> Help save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's Research
Hospital's
> 'Thanks & Giving.'
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes |
--> RV8-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I'm using a 1/4 inch thick canopy (ie heavier than Van's stock canopies) and I
built up a heavy, stiff, thick, super comforming rear skirt with multiple layers
of fiberglass/microballoon slurry. It will not vibrate nor change shape at
high speed without a fight.
When my canopy seats, the whole mess just doesn't want to budge in any direction
including up - in the garage anyway ;-)
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV8-List message posted by: jim & terri truitt
>
> 'Bout time somebody started talking about this. I've been thinking about this
> for
> 2 winters now. While weatherstriping and foam work, it really just addresses
> the
> symptoms and not the problem. For whatever reason, the back of the canopy still
> raises in flight. I doubt anyone's skirt fits any better than mine on the
> ground
> and mine still has gaps in flight.
> My engineer friend John Crabtree and I have pondered this to great extent.
> We're
> not sure why the rear canopy area has gaps - be it lift outside or cabin
> pressurization
> inside or canopy frame flex. Being an engineer, John wants to determine what
> causes
> the gaps first, then formulate a cure. Being a non-engineer, non-builder type,
> I just want to fix it.
> Together we kind of agree that there needs to be a rear canopy hold down device
> of some sort. Something that would engage to hold the canopy frame down when
> the
> canopy is pulled forward, but would not require actively locking it or unlocking
> it. We thought of installing fixed, angled metal pieces to the turtle deck, on
> both sides of the slide rail, that would engage the rear canopy frame as the
> canopy
> is locked in place - a passive device that would not really LOCK the rear frame
> down, but just keep it from rising up. When you slide the canopy to the rear,
> the
> angled pieces would disengage with the movement. If you're familiar with
> firearms,
> it would work similarly to the angled locking lugs on Sig and Glock barrels.
> I even thought of doing the same thing with a second sliding block on the slide
> rail. It would be wider than the nylon canopy block so it would rest against
> fixed
> stops on each side. The block would have an angled face to the rear. The rear
> canopy frame (or a fixture attached to it) would then engage the angled face
of
> the block just before the canopy stopped it's foreward movement. Again, not
> actually
> locking the rear canopy down, just keeping it from rising.
> Any fresh engineering thoughts out there?
>
>
>
>
>
>
I'm using a 1/4 inch thick canopy (ie heavier than Van's stock canopies) and I
built up a heavy, stiff, thick,super comforming rear skirtwith multiple layers
of fiberglass/microballoon slurry. It will not vibrate nor change shape at high
speed without a fight.
When my canopy seats, the whole mess just doesn't want to budge in any direction
including up- in the garage anyway ;-)
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV8-List message posted by: jim terri truitt <JIMTERI1@EARTHLINK.NET>
'Bout time somebody started talking about this. I've been thinking about this
for
2 winters now. While weatherstriping and foam work, it really just addresses
the
symptoms and not the problem. For whatever reason, the back of the canopy still
raises in flight. I doubt anyone's skirt fits any better than mine on the
ground
and mine still has gaps in flight.
My engineer friend John Crabtree and I have pondered this to great extent.
We're
not sure why the rear canopy area has gaps - be it lift outside or cabin
pressurization
inside or canopy frame flex. Being an engineer, John wants to determine what
causes
the
gaps first, then formulate a cure. Being a non-engineer, non-builder type,
I just want to fix it.
Together we kind of agree that there needs to be a rear canopy hold down device
of some sort. Something that would engage to hold the canopy frame down when
the
canopy is pulled forward, but would not require actively locking it or unlocking
it. We thought of installing fixed, angled metal pieces to the turtle deck, on
both sides of the slide rail, that would engage the rear canopy frame as the
canopy
is locked in place - a passive device that would not really LOCK the rear frame
down, but just keep it from rising up. When you slide the canopy to the rear,
the
angled pieces would disengage with the movement. If you're familiar with
firearms,
it would work similarly to the angled locking lugs on Sig and Glock barrels.
I even thought of doing the s
ame thing with a second sliding block on the slide
rail. It would be wider than the nylon canopy block so it would rest against
fixed
stops on each side. The block would have an angled face to the rear. The rear
canopy frame (or a fixture attached to it) would then engage the angled face of
the block just before the canopy stopped it's foreward movement. Again, not
actually
locking the rear canopy down, just keeping it from rising.
Any fresh engineering thoughts out there?
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Greg V. Miller" <gvm3@cableone.net>
Woven fiberglass carpet tape works...
On Wed, 2005-01-12 at 09:23 -0700, Bill VonDane wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
> like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
> ...not the foam crap!
>
> Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - Colorado
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: five year RV8 report - gear bolting |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <alto_q@direcway.com>
Had a heck of a time finding these, MS21042 Reduced dimention nuts and as a
last resort Guess where I looked.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an363.php
I'm still in planing but when I get to this point in construction, I'll be
substituting MS21042 Nuts for the AN365 Nuts that are called out. They meet
the same MIL-Spec and are all metal self locking, CAD plated, etc. They
will allow a smaller standard socket and keep me from standing on my head
trying to see through the bottom of my bi-focals with sweat in my eyes. When
I was young enough to do that I didn't need the bi-focals anyway.
John
D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: five year RV8 report - gear bolting
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
>>I just did this for the first time a couple days ago. The two outboard
>>bolts, actually the nuts inside the gearbox, are too crowded to get a
>>socket on them.
>
> Custom -8 landing gear tools!! Grind, cut, shave, weld... Then - swear
> and
> curse as you manage to get yourself wedged upside down into the bottom of
> the plane with your arm stuck in the gear tower; and seriously concerned
> about how you're going to get back out!! :)
>
> Bryan
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
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