Today's Message Index:
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1. 09:00 AM - Aluminum Repair Videos web site (Vince-Himsl)
2. 10:07 AM - Re: Aluminum Repair Videos web site (kmccune)
3. 10:01 PM - Bending Trailing Edge of a "One" Piece Rudder Skin (Garey Wittich)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Aluminum Repair Videos web site |
I came across this really cool web site with videos for showing how to
repair aluminum (other stuff too).
http://www.muggyweld.com/video.html
Vince H.
RV8 - In hanger for final assembly
Moscow, ID
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Repair Videos web site |
Thanks
kevin
do not archive
--------
Mark Twain: Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185627#185627
Message 3
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| Subject: | Bending Trailing Edge of a "One" Piece Rudder Skin |
Greetings:
A note that might help you. With the 1/8" dowel rod
taped to the inside of the trailing edge of the Rudder
Skin, I placed a towel inside the Skin covering the
Skin Stiffeners. Using Vans recommended wood bending
brake I was able to bend the Skin so it just touched
the Rudder's Spar. It took about 9 compressions of
the Skin to accomplish this - each time it got closer
to touching the Spar. During the bending of the Skin
the Stiffeners did NOT do any damage to the Skin
because of the towel - even though they came in
contact with the Skin during the last 2 or 3
compressions.
The Skin came out flat until the last 1/8" (as
desired) of the trailing edge near the bottom and top
Ribs and the worst was 3/8" along the trailing edge.
To get the desired 1/8" radius, I took my Hand Seamer
(about 2" wide) and put 6 layers of masking tape on
each jaw surface for padding - so as not to dent the
Skin. Placed the Hand Seamer's rear edge about 1/2"
from the trailing edge and gave a gentle squeeze (a
few times as required) where the radius needed to be
better - making sure the Squeezer was applying EQUAL
pressure on both sides of the Skin. This worked well
- no dented Skin.
The Wooden Brake I made was made out of a straight (in
length) 2" X 8" that had been sawed in half to make 2,
2" X 4"s. The bending surfaces were "plained" with a
carpenters adjustable electrical plainer to make them
absolutely "smooth" and covered with Duct Tape.
Hope this helps someone, Garey (Santa Monica, CA)
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