Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:25 AM - Re: Throttle control location (n8zg@mchsi.com)
2. 05:34 AM - Re: Fresh Air Duct Routing... (Don McNamara)
3. 05:37 AM - Re: TruTrak Servo Installs - Updated... (Don McNamara)
4. 08:10 AM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 10/21/08 (glen matejcek)
5. 08:24 AM - Re: Fresh Air Duct Routing... (manuel weber)
6. 09:34 AM - Re: Broken Canopy (Speedy11@aol.com)
7. 10:36 AM - Re: Throttle control location (Speedy11@aol.com)
8. 03:34 PM - Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"... (Matt Dralle)
9. 05:13 PM - Re: Fresh Air Duct Routing... (japhillipsga@aol.com)
10. 06:58 PM - Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? (Paul Winkels)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Throttle control location |
Robin -
I put a left-hand quadrant in my -7. I'll send you some photos when I recover
my data from my latest adventure with Vista...
neal
-------------- Original message from "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>: --------------
>
> Dear list,
> Does anyone place their throttle quadrant on the right side
> while controlling the stick with their left? I can't remember if I have
>
> Robin
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 440 Hours
> RV-10 20 Hours
> RV-8A Oh Boy...
>
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<P>Robin - </P>
<P>I put a left-hand quadrant in my -7. I'll send you some photos when I
recover my data from my latest adventure with Vista...</P>
<P> </P>
<P>neal</P>
<P> </P>
<P>-------------- Original message from "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>:
-------------- <BR><BR>> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Robin Marks"
<ROBIN1@MRMOISTURE.COM><BR>> <BR>> Dear list, <BR>> Does anyone
place their throttle quadrant on the right side <BR>> while controlling the
stick with their left? I can't remember if I have <BR>> <BR>> Robin <BR>>
RV-4 Sold <BR>> RV-6A 440 Hours <BR>> RV-10 20 Hours <BR>> RV-8A
Oh Boy... <BR>> </P>
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air Duct Routing... |
Matt, most people I've talked to about fresh air concerns claim that there's
an abundance of fresh air that comes through the two planned routes.
Additional air sources seem to not be needed. Plus, as you already
mentioned, you lose valuable baggage space.
If there's one thing I've learned (the hard way) from 12+ years of building,
it's that the designers at Van's aren't dummies. If the plans call for one
thing and not another, there's always a reason. I've tried to change things
because I thought I had a better idea, and I've always learned that I'm
wrong and Van's is right. Admittedly, I'm not the sharpest knife in the
drawer, either.
Good luck. Looks like you're coming along nicely.
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 12:33 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Fresh Air Duct Routing...
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> What is the consensus on routing the front fresh air ducts? I added an
> optional right side SV-1 NACA vent too. Looking at where to route the 2"
> duct seems to be either down and around the gear tower and second
> bulkhead, kind of directly in the foot/leg area, or just to go directly
> through the second bulkhead. The later would require a couple of
> lightening holes punched in the bulkhead. I'm not sure this is kosher,
> though. Thoughts?
>
> I just realized that adding that right-side NACA vent kind of limits the
> utility of baggage area, now doesn't it...? I thought that Van's didn't
> punch the right side as a part of the "keep it under 50%" rule that I keep
> running into... Well, at least I'll have lots of fresh air!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 # 82880
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Servo Installs - Updated... |
Also, Matt, what's that gizmo attached to your pitch servo? I have a TT
system as well, but don't have that rectangular thing with a wire for my
control arm ...
-- Don
N8RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 10:43 PM
Subject: RV8-List: TruTrak Servo Installs - Updated...
> Based on feedback from the List, I made some minor modifications to the
> TruTrak servo installation for both the Pitch and Roll axis, primarily
> having to do with making sure that there was at least a thread or two
> sticking outside the nylon insert side of the lock nuts. I also removed
> one of the fender washers from the Roll servo on the arm side which pushed
> the alignment of the pushrod to nearly perfectly perpendicular to the
> control column horn.
>
> I also installed the front seat pan skin and put all of my weight on it
> and the grabbed a picture using a mirror. There is a good 1/8" of
> clearance with full weight applied AND full right stick applied which puts
> the arm at the high point. There was no interference with any of the
> stiffeners on the underside of the seat pan fortunately.
>
> Thanks for all the great feedback!
>
> Matt
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 10/21/08 |
Hi Stan-
I went thought the same exact process and questions, and finally got some
scrap samples, as one of the other listers mentioned. Driving around the
neighborhood at night with them was fine, as was sitting in the plane at
night in the driveway once the new canopy was on. When you think about it,
the glass we fly behind every day is really tinted, and poses no issue.
Todd's tinted is the way to go- Plus, you can get a little more internal
volume under a todd's canopy ;-)
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
> From: Speedy11@aol.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Broken Canopy
>
> I recently broke my canopy after I made the final cut to fit it to the
> fuselage. Long story short - I put too much pressure on the side while
lifting
> it
> and it broke.
> I'm planning to buy a new one from Todd's Canopies. He has two options
-
> clear and tinted. But, his tinted version is darker than the Van's
tinted
> version - which was just right.
> I need your advice if you have a Todd's canopy.
> Only about 5% of my flying will be night flying, but when I fly at night,
I
> like to see well - I'm putting lots of landing and taxi lights on my
RV-8.
> But, my daytime flying may be too hot if I use a clear canopy. The
optics are
>
> best on the clear canopy.
> If you have a Todd's canopy, please give me your advice on whether or not
> the tinted canopy is too dark for night flying.
> Thanks,
> Stan Sutterfield
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air Duct Routing... |
My LH fresh air scat duct runs through-a partition that I built-in the
LH footwell area,-(just like the partition on the-RH side that creates
the lower baggage area).- I cut a hole in the upper portion of the fabric
ated partition, and ran the hose through it and around the inboard side of
the LH gear tower, then up to the eyeball vent in the LH outermost portion
of the instrument panel.
-
I would not cut any holes of this size in the gear tower.
-
--- On Tue, 10/21/08, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Fresh Air Duct Routing...
Dear Listers,
What is the consensus on routing the front fresh air ducts? I added an
optional right side SV-1 NACA vent too. Looking at where to route the 2"
duct seems to be either down and around the gear tower and second bulkhead,
kind
of directly in the foot/leg area, or just to go directly through the second
bulkhead. The later would require a couple of lightening holes punched in
the
bulkhead. I'm not sure this is kosher, though. Thoughts?
I just realized that adding that right-side NACA vent kind of limits the
utility of baggage area, now doesn't it...? I thought that Van's
didn't punch the right side as a part of the "keep it under 50%"
rule that I keep running into... Well, at least I'll have lots of fresh
air!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 # 82880=0A=0A=0A
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Broken Canopy |
Thanks to all who responded.
Stan Sutterfield
Do not archive
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Throttle control location |
Robin,
I've never seen a RV-8 with a right side throttle. In fact, I can't think
of any tandem seat aircraft I've ever seen with a right side throttle.
If you were to do that, the control cables would have to pass through lower
portion of your forward baggage compartment, so you'd probably want to close
off the lower baggage and use it for the cables, wiring and other things.
Plus, I believe the resale value of your 8 would plummet if you put the
throttle on the right as most pilots prefer the "fighter pilot" setup in tan
dem
aircraft.
Ninety percent of the population is right handed - and using both hands to
actuate knobs and switches is common. In the F-16, the stick was to the fa
r
right sidewall, so using the left hand to do stuff was the norm - with an
occasional use of the right hand when not maneuvering the jet. Of course,
HOTAS
(max number of switches and functions on the stick and throttle) helped in
that regard.
Stan Sutterfield
Does anyone place their throttle quadrant on the right side
while controlling the stick with their left? I can't remember if I have
seem any set up this way. My 6A and -10 are both set up right hand
throttle but my -4 and the 8's seem to be the reverse. I have no problem
flying the plane with either hand but prefer manipulating the EFIS /
radios with the right hand while holding the stick. I don't understand
why this would not be the preferred way to set up the controls for us
righties...
**************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your favorites
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"... |
At 05:37 AM 10/22/2008 Wednesday, you wrote:
>
>Also, Matt, what's that gizmo attached to your pitch servo? I have a TT system
as well, but don't have that rectangular thing with a wire for my control arm
...
>
>-- Don
> N8RV
The special linkage between the stepper motor and the pitch axis bellcrank is a
strain gauge that provides feedback to another electric box from TruTrak that
controls the elevator trim tab. When the strain gauge detects pressure on the
elevator because of an out-of-trim condition, the device will automatically
feed in trim to compensate and reduces the workload on the pitch axis servo.
This function is wired in parallel with the normal electric trim button on the
stick that the pilot uses so the trim input from the system can always be overridden.
They call it their "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim". I believe that
it only works in conjunction with the autopilot engaged, however. It would be
cool if would also auto-trim for different power settings when the autopilot
was disengaged.
I've included a picture of the linkage below and more information from TruTrak's
web site below as well. Seems like a really cool device.
Here's a link to the Manual:
http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/AutomaticPitchTrim.pdf
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
<file://C:\Incoming\2008.10.20%20-%20RV-8%20-%20TruTrak%20Autopilot%20Pitch%20Servo%20With%20Auto%20Elevator%20Trim%20Sensor%20Linkage%20(1).jpg>
[]
Emacs!
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air Duct Routing... |
Matt, your leap may have a great benefit. That could be used for one of those portable
AC units I saw at SnF. Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Sent: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 12:33 am
Subject: RV8-List: Fresh Air Duct Routing...
Dear Listers,
What is the consensus on routing the front fresh air ducts? I added an optional
right side SV-1 NACA vent too. Looking at where to route the 2" duct seems to
be either down and around the gear tower and second bulkhead, kind of directly
in the foot/leg area, or just to go directly through the second bulkhead. The
later would require a couple of lightening holes punched in the bulkhead. I'm
not sure this is kosher, though. Thoughts?
I just realized that adding that right-side NACA vent kind of limits the utility
of baggage area, now doesn't it...? I thought that Van's didn't punch the right
side as a part of the "keep it under 50%" rule that I keep running into...
Well, at least I'll have lots of fresh air!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 # 82880
[Image Removed]
[Image Removed]
Message 10
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| Subject: | Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? |
Matt, I have had several steel and aluminum parts powder coated on my RV-7,
and I asked my powder coater about the limitations of powder coating. He
said he would be very hesitant to powder coat anything thinner than about
.063" aluminum because the heat can cause deformation, especially in larger
parts. I am no expert, but I don't think it would be advisable to place your
assembled fuselage into a 400 degree oven!!! I certainly wouldn't do it.
Also, powder coating can add considerably more weight than priming/painting.
By the way, I had my assembled brake pedals powder coated with excellent
results. My instrument panel will also get powder coated (before the
instruments are installed, of course ;). Other than the slider canopy latch
hook, that's about the extent of aluminum parts I'll powder coat. Of the
steel parts powder coated, I've done the tailwheel spring and fork assembly,
slider canopy frame and roll bar, and canopy latch handle, but that's about
it.
Hope this helps,
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 19:12
Subject: RV8-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When?
Fellow RV-er's,
There is a powercoating shop here in my town that has an oven large enough
to put my whole RV-8 fuselage into it. I've been considering just having
the whole inside powercoated for the durability, and sweet look. Lots of
guys powercoat the instrument panel and obviously most of the steel parts
come from Van's powercoated. But what are the upsides and downsides of
powercoating all of the interior parts. I've used Variprime on most of the
backsides of the interior parts, but I've left the occupant facing parts
bare in prep for the powercoating. Will the powercoat chip off easily on
the bend-y pieces?
And when's the right time to take it down to the powercoaters? I would like
to have most things riveted that need riveting before the coating like the
forward deck over the instrument panel and the aft turtledeck, but these get
riveted on pretty late in the building process. I would like to have all of
the wiring and controls installed or at least fabbed and trial fitted before
coating to avoid scratches. But again, once things are wired, is coating
going to make a mess? Its not like the harnesses can really be removed once
their installed...
The other concern is the heat necessary to bake on the powercoating. I
think its upwards of 450 degrees F. What impact will that temperature have
on the various parts that go into the fuselage such as the aeronuts, plastic
bushings, clamps, etc?
I'm in quite a dilemma over this. I really want to wait as long as possible
to avoid scratches and chips in the powercoating, but I don't want to wait
too long and not be able to disassemble things to the point of making a good
looking job. For example, the rear floor boards should probably be riveted
down, but any screwed in panels should be removed. But riveting the
floorboards is something I'd probably prefer to do the day before test
flying...
Thanks for any insight...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 # 82880
Trutrak Auto Pilot Servo and Aileron Electric Trim Install
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