Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:08 AM - Re: Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal (John Ciolino)
2. 04:03 AM - Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal (Speedy11@aol.com)
3. 04:06 AM - Re: Dralle Scratches (Speedy11@aol.com)
4. 09:24 AM - Re: Re: Dralle Scratches (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal |
Stan,
My canopy skirt also hit the VS and I had to trim the trailing edge some
to make sure it did not hit. I trimmed enough to be able to slide the
nylon attachment bracket off the rail. Of course that meant the initial
fit the canopy skirt at the aft end no longer worked and I had to
reposition it. (Do over - the story of my building life.)
Once you trim enough to be able to remove the canopy you also want to
install the empennage fairing (temporarily) to the VS and make sure the
skirt does not hit that is everyday use. That should not be a problem.
As someone else mentioned, you need install the canopy latch. You will
find that the canopy latch handle will hit the aft fuselage bulkhead and
a stop has to be installed in the canopy rail to prevent this. This
also limits how far back the skirt will travel. The amount of travel you
need to clear the empennage fairing in everyday use is less than if you
want to remove the canopy.
In order to remove my finished canopy without removing the nylon slider,
I have to remove the empennage fairing, lift the front of the canopy
just enough to pull the rollers out and I can then slide the nylon
bracket off the rail. It is a 2 person job.
John Ciolino
Working on final assembly.
From: Speedy11@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 11:24 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal
Bill,
No kidding.
I've made a carrier for the canopy also and it works great.
But, as I was removing the canopy yesterday with the skirt temporarily
clamped in place, the trailing edge of the skirt hit the rudder before
the nylon attachment bracket reached the end of the slider track!
I was very surprised and wondered if others had experienced the same
thing. I guess not.
I'll take another look at it today and see if I'm doing something wrong.
Thanks,
Stan
www.rv-8a.net
Stan, your kidding right? Just slide it rearward until it gets to the
end of
the track, lift the front off the roller stubs and then slid it
rearward
some more until the nylon attachment bracket passes the slide rail.
Then lift
it
off. Its not much of a problem until you get the skirts on. Then
getting it
off is about the same, but you cannot set it on a table as before
because the
thin fiberglass skirts extend below the frame and should not be
allowed to
support the weight of the canopy. I made a special bench to support
the canopy
on the normal three points. Best regards, Bill
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit
score.
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal |
My sincere appreciation to all who replied. Great ideas which made me think.
John, I hadn't even considered your idea of pulling the pin in the Delrin
block - great idea. thanks.
I am going to put a stop at the aft limit of the side rails to keep the
canopy from banging at the back.
I had heard of machining the slot in the slider rail, but didn't want to do
that unless required.
Thanks again to everyone. The net is such an asset for us. It's hard to
imagine building in, say, 1950 when even telephones were not common. The early
builders were real aviation pioneers.
Stan Sutterfield
Stan, I just pull the pin on the UHMW/Delrin slide block and lift
straight off. I have seen a few that machined off the sides of the
slide rail at the rear so that once they pull the front bolts or pins,
slide to the back, they can just lift straight up and off. Most folks
put a short piece of wood/dowel/or whatever in the left or right slide
to keep the canopy from going all the way to the rear in order to keep
the handle from hitting at the rear, so in normal operation, the canopy
never actually gets to the very rear of the slide. Then when you are
ready to remove it, pull the front bolts, slide back to the machined out
area of the slide and then lift up. Clear as mud? sorry don't have a
picture.
As I said, I didn't want to cut the slide, so I go to the trouble of
pulling the pin in the UHMW/Delrin block so it stays on the rail when I
pull the canopy.
Hope that helps.
John
**************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your
credit score.
(http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002)
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Dralle Scratches |
Matt,
I didn't read all the way through your log to see if you solved the
windscreen scratch problem, but should you decide to replace the windscreen, don't
buy a new canopy. I've got a Van's canopy that cracked about halfway back and
the windscreen portion is fine - in fact, it's already trimmed to fit. How
about $50 + shipping? Or better yet, you pay shipping and we'll make it my
donation to next years Matronics fund raising effort.
If Matt doesn't need it and someone else on the net needs a windscreen, let
me know.
Stan Sutterfield
Daytona Beach, FL
Here are a bunch of pictures of my RV-8 installation. Be sure to cycle
though
all the various entries including the skirt installation after the scratch
removal
section
**************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your
credit score.
(http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002)
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Dralle Scratches |
Hi Stan,
Thank you for the generous offer! However, turns out that I later got a huge crack
in the rear part of the canopy and had to buy a whole new one too... :-(
For as totally sweet as the new Pre-Punched kits go together, I have to say that
this archaic canopy design really needs to be updated. I'd pay an extra $1000
to have a canopy that was already perfectly cut to size. Oh, wait, I already
did... ;-/
Matt
At 04:05 AM 1/25/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>Matt,
>I didn't read all the way through your log to see if you solved the windscreen
scratch problem, but should you decide to replace the windscreen, don't buy a
new canopy. I've got a Van's canopy that cracked about halfway back and the
windscreen portion is fine - in fact, it's already trimmed to fit. How about
$50 + shipping? Or better yet, you pay shipping and we'll make it my donation
to next years Matronics fund raising effort.
>If Matt doesn't need it and someone else on the net needs a windscreen, let me
know.
>Stan Sutterfield
>Daytona Beach, FL
>
>Here are a bunch of pictures of my RV-8 installation. Be sure to cycle though
>all the various entries including the skirt installation after the scratch removal
>section
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|