RV8-List Digest Archive

Fri 05/29/09


Total Messages Posted: 3



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:50 AM - Re: Re: Mounting The Engine... (Heath Cherneski)
     2. 08:11 AM - Re: Re: Mounting The Engine... (Valovich, Paul)
     3. 08:32 PM - Must-Have Tool Tip... (Matt Dralle)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:50:09 AM PST US
    From: "Heath Cherneski" <heath.cherneski@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Mounting The Engine...
    It will be necessary to run the engine without the cowling on to check for leaks and adjust mixture cut-off etc. you should limit ground runs as much as possible. Run to check all systems and for leaks and what-not. seat rings as soon as possible after taxi tests and ground runs. Good luck! Heath Cherneski heath.cherneski@gmail.com hchernes@utsi.edu heath.cherneski@us.army.mil _____ From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Breece Nesbitt Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 7:20 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: Mounting The Engine... I'm building an RV-8, also, and just hung the engine a couple of weeks ago (IO-360-A1B6). I don't think it would be good to run the engine without the top skin on. You need to have that skin in place before you install the cowling. Van says that you should have all your baffles and cowling in place before running the engine in order to provide adequate cooling the the cylinders. I've got the side and top hinges clecoed in place around the firewall. I don't have the top skin on yet, because I still have some work to do underneath. I wanted to install the baffles next, but realized that the top cowl needs to be in place first. Then I found that the prop needs to be on before the cowl is put on. I am planning to put the prop on in the next couple of days. The top skin has to be riveted in place before the cowl is installed, because the clecos will interfere - also to get the top of the firewall in the right place to fit the cowling. So it looks like I'm gonna have to go back to the panel and other stuff right behind the firewall and get all that finished before I can go back to the engine side. I hope that hanging the engine will not affect the fit of the top skin. A question I have is: how long is it okay to have the engine exposed before it is run? Also, what should I do to the engine before it's ready to run? I think it might be six months before I crank it up. It was packed at the factory for long-term storage. Breece _____ From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 7:21:33 PM Subject: RV8-List: Re: Mounting The Engine... Hum, hadn't though about actually starting the motor without the skin on. I was just thinking about whether it would hold the static weight. I guess to test all the wiring, the engine would really need to be started. So I guess I'll rephrase my question to "Could the engine be hung AND run without the top skin and sides riveted?" ...? Matt At 04:11 PM 5/28/2009 Thursday, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Stan Jones <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz> > >Yes Matt, I am looking at the same problem. I am building a slider, >and the front section of that can't be built until the top skin is in >place. >I would like to start the motor to verify all of my wiring is OK. >It's going to be a bit dicey not having those rivets in place and 200 >HP thrashing around in the front >I would be interested to hear what others have done > >Stan Jones >On 29/05/2009, at 8:46 AM, Matt Dralle wrote: > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> >> >> >>Dear Listers, >> >>I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like >>to hold off riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of >>the wiring and what not works with the various engine sensors. Is >>it "safe" to mount the engine before this skin is in place? Also, >>I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets along the sides >>where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of temporary >>pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are >>completely riveted? >> >>Thanks! >> >>Matt Dralle >>RV-8 #82880 N998RV >>Finishing Up The Wheehe Matronics List Features Navigator to =======================


    Message 2


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    Time: 08:11:32 AM PST US
    From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
    Subject: Re: Mounting The Engine...
    I'm building an -8A QB. I'm not ging to rivet the final top skin until the baffles, cowl and final wiring tweaks are done. I've got the engine hung, p rop on, cowl fitted and am currently battling the black magic of the baffle s. I have Skybolt cams for the cowl so fabricated the mounting strips with clecos in every hole of the firewall. Also used clecoes in every hole of th e top skin. I will not run the engine until the top skin is riveted. Works for me. Booger N192NM Reserved (again)


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:32:33 PM PST US
    From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
    Subject: Must-Have Tool Tip...
    Dear Listers, I don't know, maybe everyone but me already knew about this little gem of a tool, but in case you missed it, I thought I share. If you don't have one of these, run - don't walk - down to your local Home Depot or Ace Hardware store and get one! All of those #8 screws in the RVs are a giant pain to work in and out and some are just impossible to get to. I've been using this little guy on the RV-8 project and can't image not having it now. The bendable shaft is really strong and you can bend the heck out of it without impacting the torque. Its about $13 at Home Depot which is a great deal considering how handy it is. Here's a link to it on the Ace Hardware web page. I also attached a picture of mine attached to my Dewalt electric screw driver. http://www.acehardware.com/sm-eazypower-flex-a-bit-plus-eazypower-flex-a-bit-plus--pi-2467822.html Best regards, Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV Fitting Wheel Pants - Ug, These Suck...




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