Today's Message Index:
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1. 08:51 PM - Bolt Hole Clearance - Elevator Horn (Garey Wittich)
2. 09:20 PM - Re: Bolt Hole Clearance - Elevator Horn (Brian Huffaker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Bolt Hole Clearance - Elevator Horn |
REF: -Regarding the 1/4 inch bolt holes in the Elevator Control Horns, ab
out which the Left & Right Elevator Horns rotate on the center Hinge Bearin
g fastened to the center of the Horiz Stabilizer.
After drilling these 1/4 inch diameter holes (for the AN4 Bolt), these hole
s are too close to the weld fillet that welds the torque tube to the perpen
dicular part of the Horn. -The weld fillets on my L & R Horns go ALL the
way around the Tube. Thus the AN4 Bolt HEAD and corresponding Nut HEAD will
come in contact with the "weld fillet" BEFORE they are tightened. --
- After reading the "Archieves" for possible solutions and some of my own
thoughts it seems the options are (looking for the BEST Option):
1) Die Grind the weld fillet in the area where the Bolt and Nut heads will
be, then spot prime with Zinc Chromate.
2) -Grind the weld fillet where the Nut Head will be and then use a reduc
ed size Nut (MS21042-4) that has a smaller diameter than the -one supplie
d by Vans.
3) -Use regular AN960 Washers and "contour them" to fit over the weld fil
let so Bolt Head and Nut fit snug against them. -(Will need a longer Bolt
than supplied by Vans.)
4) -Make a "thick" washer out of stainless steel (i.e. 1/8" thick) and "c
ontour it" to fit over the weld fillets; thus the Bolt and Nut heads have a
flat surface to tighten against. -Again a longer Bolt will be required.
-<----- Seems the BEST approach to me. - Any subtle issues involved ???
How did YOU handle this situation ???????
Appreciate your comments !!!
Thanks, - Garey Wittich - Santa Monica, CA=0A=0A=0A
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Bolt Hole Clearance - Elevator Horn |
On Sun, 14 Jun 2009, Garey Wittich wrote:
> - After reading the "Archieves" for possible solutions and some of my
>own thoughts it seems the options are (looking for the BEST Option):
> 1) Die Grind the weld fillet in the area where the Bolt and Nut heads
>will be, then spot prime with Zinc Chromate.
>> 2) -Grind the weld fillet where the Nut Head will be and then use a
>reduced size Nut (MS21042-4) that has a smaller diameter than the -one
>supplied by Vans.
I believe that grinding away the fillet on a structural weld is a bad
idea, leaves a stress riser and weakens the part. Van is pretty good at
only using steel where absolutely needed for strength so I doubt there is
enough extra to remove this safely.
> 3) -Use regular AN960 Washers and "contour them" to fit over the weld
>fillet so Bolt Head and Nut fit snug against them. -(Will need a longer
>Bolt than supplied by Vans.)
> 4) -Make a "thick" washer out of stainless steel (i.e. 1/8" thick) and
>"contour it" to fit over the weld fillets; thus the Bolt and Nut heads
>have a flat surface to tighten against. -Again a longer Bolt will be
>required. -<----- Seems the BEST approach to me. - Any subtle issues
>involved ???
Either of these sound good to me.
> How did YOU handle this situation ???????
Just checked my parts, my hole is close, but it has enough space for a
washer and bolt head between this hole and the weld.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft@xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Fitting canopy latch.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
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