Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:14 AM - Re: Wing Tip Installation - Droopy Right (Speedy11@aol.com)
2. 11:01 AM - Pirep - Fairings-Etc Gear Intersection Fairings... (Matt Dralle)
3. 11:10 PM - Low RPM from Plasma II+ and P-lead to Dynon d-180 (Vincent Himsl)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Installation - Droopy Right |
Matt,
I have a similar problem except that mine are both off my about 1/2 inch.
But my tip are the old style and about 8 years old. I decided to go ahead
a fly it and see how it handles and then attack the problem once I've
talked to others.
It flies great! I'm not sure I'll change anything.
Let us know on the forum if you find an answer.
Stan Sutterfield
1.0 Hrs
I installed the wing tips on the -8 last week and they came out perfect.
I was
really pleased and relieved. They each took about 8 hours including
cutting
the plastic lens.
That's the good news. The bad news is that the right tip at the trailing
edge
came out about 1/2" low. The left one is exactly the correct height. I
measured
this by making the short aileron push rod the exact length stated on the
plans
(27 5/8" I think it was) and then using that W-730 jig to center the
bellcrank
and I assume the aileron.
Installation of the left wing tip, which I did first, went really smoothly
and
I had little trouble fitting or aligning. The right one, however, really
fought
me and in my zest to make sure that the lap joint between the metal skin
and
the fiberglass was perfect, I kind of neglected to triple check the height
of
the trailing edge of the tip as it related to the aileron. I focused more
on
the alignment of length of the two and that they were correct.
Anyway, I was rigging the ailerons this week and connecting to the control
stick
and that's when I noticed that the right tip was drooping about 1/2" lower
than
the aileron. I tried removing the tip RIB and fusing around a bit, but
this
didn't help, and then I tried slitting the trailing edge of the tip. This
allowed me to align the tip to the aileron at the inboard side of the tip,
but
it didn't allow me to raise the outboard edge of the tip (without a whole
bunch
of extra fiberglass work).
I'm not opposed to getting a new wing tip and just starting over again,
but I was
wondering if anyone else had this same trouble, i.e. left tip fit great,
right
tip didn't fit very well and was low at the trailing edge. I'm wondering
if its just a problem with the fiberglass layup.
Now that all of the holes in the skin for the wing tip mounting are
dimpled (I
used #6 screws), fitting a new tip is going to be a real tough job because
I won't
be able to get the tip flat against the skin. Arg...
Any feedback would be appreciated.
**************Summer concert season is here! Find your favorite artists on
tour at TourTracker.com.
(http://www.tourtracker.com/?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000006)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Pirep - Fairings-Etc Gear Intersection Fairings... |
Since I'm building a *metal* airplane and not a fiberglass airplane by personal
choice, when it was time to start the gear intersection fairings I was shocked
and amazed that I was expected to use modeling clay and a make my own mold-in-place
gear intersection fairings. I could probably get one side to look okay,
but I *knew* there'd be no way I could make the other side look just like the
first side. Since I'm considered compulsive about my need for ying/yang and
feng shui in my projects, I just knew this task was going to be a huge pain
in the tail feathers.
I turned to the Internet as I so often do when faced with overwhelming situations, and after a few pokes at the 'ol Google, I happened upon the Fairings-Etc web site ( http://www.fairings-etc.com/ ). Bob Snedaker of Fairings-Etc makes all sorts of fiberglass bits and pieces and after a some of surfing around his web site I found that he is now offering upper and lower main gear intersection fairings for the RV-8 with the Grove Airfoiled landing gear!
The parts arrived yesterday and I pulled them out of the box and slipped them on
the gear and was simply *amazed* at the beautiful fit! They will require a
bit of finishing and final fitting, but nothing major. Their shape is very pleasing
and really tie the Grove gear together with the fuselage and wheel pants.
I've attached a few pictures of the fairings as the look right out of the
box.
The Upper set of fairings are $130 and the lower set are $140. In my opinion an
excellent investment in my RV-8 project. Not only will they save me a ton of
time, but they will look 100 times better than anything I could have ever come
up with.
Run - don't walk - over to Fairings-Etc and order yourself a set today! You won't
be sorry!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Wing-to-Fuselage Fairings...
(Note that I have no affiliation with Fairings-Etc other than being a very satisfied
customer.)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Low RPM from Plasma II+ and P-lead to Dynon d-180 |
I have the digital pulse information from my Lightspeed plasma II+ electron
ic ignition feeding one input to my Dynon D-180 and a magneto P-lead tap th
rough 30 k resistor (per Dynon manual) to the other RPM input of my Dynon D
-180.
Problem is that with the P-lead Pulse per revolution set to 1=2C and the Pl
asm II+ Pulse / rev set to 2=2C my Dynon reads 2 to 3 hundred rpm low at 90
0 rpm (verified by Tru-Tach) and 4 to 6 hundred low at the high end (2100 t
o 2700 rpm).
I removed the Dynon and using a square wave generator providing 12 volt pk-
pk referenced to ground tested both inputs of the Dynon. It is right on. I
also dropped the voltage down to as little as 8 Volts Pk-Pk and the Dynon r
emained accurate.
Suspecting that the Dynon averages both inputs=2C I tested each input by re
moving the other. Both the Plasma II+ and the P-lead were reading low rpm's
compared to a tru-tac (which can be calibrated by aiming it at flourescent
lighting...pretty slick).
By Resetting the pulse rate of the Dynon to 1.5 for the Plasma II+=2C I get
readings that are consistently 60 rpm low. The P-lead with the recommende
d Dynon resistance of 30K reads 2 to 300 low.
My temporary fix at the moment is to remove the P-lead input to the Dynon f
rom the Magneto (Slick brand via aerosport) and keep the Plasma II+ input s
et to 1.5 pulses / rev even though the Lightspeed manual says it should be
2 pulses.
Has anyone else been down this road? If so would appreciate hearing the sol
ution before I haul a scope to the airport.
Regards=2C
Vince_Himsl
RV8 N8432 Flying! (10 hours)
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