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1. 06:36 AM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 02/22/10 (Speedy11@aol.com)
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| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 02/22/10 |
Matt,
I do recommend that you do something to seal and protect the inside of the
cowling. I didn't do anything and I'm regretting it after only 60 hours.
I'm getting a little bit of browning due to the exhaust heat and leaked
oil seems to be soaking into the fiberglass. I've talked to several other
owners with more hours who have encountered the same problem and once the
cowling is oil soaked, nothing will stick to the inside despite vigorous
cleaning attempts.
Your idea of using thinned resin is not a bad one. I would weigh the
resin and then decide if I wanted to do that or add paint (which is also heavy)
or add an adhesive reflective barrier (some weight involved). One thing to
consider is to use high temp resin to resist the exhaust temperatures.
My #2 exhaust pipe was too close to the cowling and after landing from the
initial flight (20 minutes) it had burned the glass and honeycomb (no
exterior damage). I had to remove the burned portion and replace it with carbon
fiber (for strength) and high temp resin. You have the same engine as me,
so you may encounter the same problem.
So, personally, I recommend you do the resin thing on the inside. But, if
you don't want to buy high temp resin ($180/gal), then maybe use high temp
light colored paint or self adhesive reflective barrier.
Stan Sutterfield
In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1 with
acetone
to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to make a filler for
the
pin holes and other surface imperfections. Seems straightforward enough.
But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like its
going
to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky 'ol Lycomings.
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
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