Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:18 AM - Re: Floor Covering (Michael Kraus)
2. 03:18 AM - Re: Floor Covering ()
3. 06:19 AM - Re: Re: RV Speeds (Richard Martin)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Floor Covering |
I used this stuff:
http://www.epoxy-coat.com/
A buddy and I did it ourselves in about 8 hours. 44x62' hangar floor. One guy
mixes and pours, the other squeegies and rolls.
I was pleased with the results after 3 years. I too was told to stay away from
the Rust Oleum stuff (although I like their other paint products)
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 23, 2010, at 12:28 AM, "William L. Paulin" <wpaulin@usa.net> wrote:
>
> Yes,
>
> Do not use Rustoleum. It will chip and peal and come off from oil or fuel or
even just time. I know, I tried it in a garage.
>
> Hire a professional you find on line to put on an industrial grade product.
If you search on line, you will find pilot / hangar horror stories as I did after
my first try. My second try with a pro worked fine.
>
> Bill
>
>
> On Aug 22, 2010, at 5:34 PM, cs@charlesstringham.com wrote:
>
>
> Greetings Fellow RVers,
> Quick Build RV-8 wings and fuselage are coming next week, so I'm finishing up
on the hangar. I got this new Rustoleum Epoxyshield garage floor 2-part epoxy.
The contractor used a cure/sealer on the concrete slab. Instructions from Rustoleum
say the product can't be applied over a sealer--must be to bare concrete.
The contractor said use muriatic acid to remove the cure/sealer. Rustoleum
instructions say not to use muriatic acid, instead to use the citric acid provided
with the kit. But the citric acid doesn't seem to remove the cure/sealer.
I will probably call Rustoleum tomorrow, but does anyone have suggestions?
> Thanks, Chet
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **********************************
> William L. Paulin, Ph.D.
> 1575 South Forest Drive
> Prescott, AZ 86303
>
> Cell +1 858 722 2905
> Office +1 760 720 2905
> Europe +358 40 720 4047
>
> wpaulin@usa.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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I used Rustoleum on my hanger floor more than 10 years ago and it is still great.
I did sand the floor first, using a rental floor polisher with an open grit.
then applied two coats.
Louis Someday RV-8
---- Terry Watson <terry@tcwatson.com> wrote:
>
> Aviation Consumer did a comparison and report on hanger (garage) floor paint
> a year or two ago.
>
> Terry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William L. Paulin
> Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 9:28 PM
> To: rv8-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Floor Covering
>
>
> Yes,
>
> Do not use Rustoleum. It will chip and peal and come off from oil or fuel
> or even just time. I know, I tried it in a garage.
>
> Hire a professional you find on line to put on an industrial grade product.
> If you search on line, you will find pilot / hangar horror stories as I did
> after my first try. My second try with a pro worked fine.
>
> Bill
>
>
> On Aug 22, 2010, at 5:34 PM, cs@charlesstringham.com wrote:
>
> <cs@charlesstringham.com>
>
> Greetings Fellow RVers,
> Quick Build RV-8 wings and fuselage are coming next week, so I'm finishing
> up on the hangar. I got this new Rustoleum Epoxyshield garage floor 2-part
> epoxy. The contractor used a cure/sealer on the concrete slab. Instructions
> from Rustoleum say the product can't be applied over a sealer--must be to
> bare concrete. The contractor said use muriatic acid to remove the
> cure/sealer. Rustoleum instructions say not to use muriatic acid, instead to
> use the citric acid provided with the kit. But the citric acid doesn't seem
> to remove the cure/sealer. I will probably call Rustoleum tomorrow, but does
> anyone have suggestions?
> Thanks, Chet
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **********************************
> William L. Paulin, Ph.D.
> 1575 South Forest Drive
> Prescott, AZ 86303
>
> Cell +1 858 722 2905
> Office +1 760 720 2905
> Europe +358 40 720 4047
>
> wpaulin@usa.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Bill<
I have raced against Whirlwinds and find them to be good performers, however
I can usually outrun them by an average 5 knot difference,
Good Luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 8:32 AM, Bill Judge <bjudge@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a comparison of the Aerocomposites vs Whirlwind on
> the same airframe? I've heard that the WW is faster/more efficient
> but I'm biased.
>
> I've got a WW 200RV, RV-8, Superior Airparts IO-360 w/ Ryton exploding
> sump, lightspeed II ignition and I generally run 160 knots TAS 10,000
> feet, 6.5 gph, WOT, LOP, 1950 RPM. Everything else about the airframe
> is pretty much standard. I'm very confident in that 6.5 GPH @ 160
> knots TAS figure. I'm not as confident in other power setting since I
> generally just run in the econo cruise @ 160. As the fuel burns off I
> generally pick up 2-3 knots from the reduced weight.
>
> I know that for keeping the efficiency up the low RPM is key.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill judge, RV-8, N84WJ 515 Hrs
> rv-8.blogspot.com
>
>
> >
> > Time: 11:23:12 AM PST US
> > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV Speeds
> > From: Richard Martin <martinaerodrome@gmail.com>
> >
> > Stan,
> > I hate to tell you this, but your inability to achieve the higher speeds
> is
> > to sell your 3 blade MT to some one you do not like, and use the proceeds
> to
> > buy either the New blended airfoil blade Hartzell from Vans AC, or better
> > yet, buy a Aerocomposites 2 blade 72 or 74 inch propeller. Also, you
> could
> > contact Same James and consider one of his cowlings and plenum chambers
> > (proven speed prudecers). Good luck.
> > Dick Martin
> > RV8 N233M
> > the fast one
> >
>
>
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