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1. 07:29 AM - Re: fitting the baggage door (GLEN MATEJCEK)
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| Subject: | Re: fitting the baggage door |
>
> I just used a rivet gun, mushroom set, and bucking bar stretch / shape the
> door frame elements to make them fit properly to the fuselage, and hand
> rolled / massaged the skin over some sched 40 PVC. Rivetting as much as
> possible in situ finished the fit.
FWIW-
>
>
> Time: 09:52:45 AM PST
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: Rounding The Bottom Flange Of Baggage Door...
>
>
> For the RV-8 Rebuild I decided to build a new front baggage door for a
> number of reasons. The main reason was due to the less than stellar job I
> did with the bottom flange that intersects with the top of the fuselage.
> On the Ruby 1.0, when I finished the baggage door, I found that the bottom
> flange of the baggage door was sticking out away from the fuselage by
> about
> 3/16" and just looked stupid. At that point the door was already built,
> so
> the only option I really had was try to put a bend in it using the bending
> brake. The bend came out fine, but from the first flight to the mishap, I
> always hated the way that crease looked since it didn't match the rest of
> the fuselage.
>
> So, on Ruby 2.0 I decided I was going to make a new door and hoped that the
> first one was just a fluke. Unfortunately, after I finished door #2 I
> found that I had exactly the same problem with the 3/16" gap at the
> bottom!
> Rather than using the brake, this time I clamped the flange between two
> 1/4" thick pieces of oak wood and tried to bend and stretch it so as to
> not
> leave a crease. The good news was that I did get a better fit and the
> crease was much less, but the bad news was that I didn't use enough clamps
> and the bend came out inconsistent front to back and, frankly looked a lot
> worse that the original one. Rats. Another one for the scrape pile.
>
> So, I ordered up another pile of parts to build a third baggage door. But
> this time, before I did any building, I decided to try to get the fit
> better right out of the gate and while I still had just a single flat skin
> and no bulkhead structure underneath. I worked though in my head a dozen
> different ways that I might put a creaseless bend in the bottom 1" of
> flange on the door, but nothing seemed like it would really work. Then I
> remembered that my piece-of-crap-Chinese-made combination shear/brake also
> had a roller on it! But I didn't get too excited, because I'd never
> really
> used the roller because they just seemed like a bigger piece of crap than
> the rest of the tool. Today, I decided to take a closer looks and figure
> out just what tweaking I'd need to do to get the rollers working.
>
> The first thing I discovered was that the rollers still had the anti-rust,
> shipping compound on them which made them very uneven and not too
> consistent for grabbing. I broke out the Acetone and some paper towels
> and
> gave them a good cleaning. Turns out, the rollers were pretty well made
> and smooth, once all the gunk was removed. Next, I fiddled around with
> the
> adjustment arms that vary the distance of the rear roller from the front
> rollers. This distance gives you looser or tighter bend radii depending
> on
> their position. But you have to make sure that the distance is exactly
> the
> same left-to-right if you want a consistent bend radius. I used a digital
> caliper and got things dialed in pretty well and used a few sample pieces
> of .032 2024-T3 to test. In the testing, I found that I could get just
> the
> right amount of bend that seemed like it was fitting nicely along the
> baggage door mounting. So, next, I grabbed the real piece of metal for
> the
> top baggage door skin and ran the first 4" or so though the roller from
> the
> front. Then I took it out and put it in from behind and ran it though the
> rollers again which seemed to even the bend out nicely. A trial fit on
> the
> fuselage and lo' in behold it was a lot closer that it had been. I
> adjusted the rollers again for a little bit more bend and repeated the
> bending process. Even closer this time. One more tightening and the fit
> was literally perfect! Best of all, from the outside of the baggage door
> skin, there is NO crease! The natural bend of the door that matches the
> fuselage top skin simple accelerates evenly over the last 1-2" of the skin
> which is just right for making a perfect fit and seal with the top of the
> fuselage.
>
> So, I'm happy to report that I think I will finally have an acceptable
> baggage door for the RV-8. 'Course, I now I have to build this new one
> using the freshly rebent skin, during which time there is always lots of
> opportunity to slip with the rivet gun or whatever and cause a catastrophe
> that would require a forth attempt. But, let's not focus on that... :-)
>
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
>
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>
> RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
> http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
> Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer
> Mode
>
> Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
> Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
> Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
> For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:26:21 PM PST US
> From: Paul Schattauer <chasm711@msn.com>
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rounding The Bottom Flange Of Baggage Door...
>
> Matt
>
> The instructions for the door are crap=2C the good news is that you are hal
> f way there with the bend. The next part is to get the door to lay flat on
> the cowl. To do this you need to rivet the curved flanges and the hinge
> to the door=2C do not rivet the back of the door yet. put a temp hinge pin
> in and see how it fits. stretch or shrink the curved flanges to make to d
> oor lay flat with no forcing. to stretch use a rivet squeezer with two fla
> ts to stamp the metal and stretch it. It may help to notch the right angle
> part (the part you rivet the back to) to relieve it. Same procedure to sh
> rink except use a rib shrinker of course. When the door lays smoothly on t
> he cowl rivet the back on. I had to make a new back (two piece=2C factory
> is one piece) to make it fit. good luck
>
> Paul Schattauer
> RV8 N808PS
> built 5 of the damn doors
> N808PS was the red RV8 on Vans web page for a long time
>
>
> > Date: Tue=2C 24 Jun 2014 09:50:46 -0700
> > To: rv8-list@matronics.com=3B rv-list@matronics.com
> > From: dralle@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV8-List: Rounding The Bottom Flange Of Baggage Door...
> >
> >
> > For the RV-8 Rebuild I decided to build a new front baggage door for a nu
> mber of reasons. The main reason was due to the less than stellar job I di
> d with the bottom flange that intersects with the top of the fuselage. On
> the Ruby 1.0=2C when I finished the baggage door=2C I found that the bottom
> flange of the baggage door was sticking out away from the fuselage by abou
> t 3/16" and just looked stupid. At that point the door was already built
> =2C so the only option I really had was try to put a bend in it using the b
> ending brake. The bend came out fine=2C but from the first flight to the m
> ishap=2C I always hated the way that crease looked since it didn't match th
> e rest of the fuselage.
> >
> > So=2C on Ruby 2.0 I decided I was going to make a new door and hoped that
> the first one was just a fluke. Unfortunately=2C after I finished door #2
> I found that I had exactly the same problem with the 3/16" gap at the bott
> om! Rather than using the brake=2C this time I clamped the flange between
> two 1/4" thick pieces of oak wood and tried to bend and stretch it so as to
> not leave a crease. The good news was that I did get a better fit and the
> crease was much less=2C but the bad news was that I didn't use enough clam
> ps and the bend came out inconsistent front to back and=2C frankly looked a
> lot worse that the original one. Rats. Another one for the scrape pile.
> >
> > So=2C I ordered up another pile of parts to build a third baggage door.
> But this time=2C before I did any building=2C I decided to try to get the f
> it better right out of the gate and while I still had just a single flat sk
> in and no bulkhead structure underneath. I worked though in my head a doze
> n different ways that I might put a creaseless bend in the bottom 1" of fla
> nge on the door=2C but nothing seemed like it would really work. Then I re
> membered that my piece-of-crap-Chinese-made combination shear/brake also ha
> d a roller on it! But I didn't get too excited=2C because I'd never really
> used the roller because they just seemed like a bigger piece of crap than
> the rest of the tool. Today=2C I decided to take a closer looks and figure
> out just what tweaking I'd need to do to get the rollers working.
> >
> > The first thing I discovered was that the rollers still had the anti-rust
> =2C shipping compound on them which made them very uneven and not too consi
> stent for grabbing. I broke out the Acetone and some paper towels and gave
> them a good cleaning. Turns out=2C the rollers were pretty well made and
> smooth=2C once all the gunk was removed. Next=2C I fiddled around with the
> adjustment arms that vary the distance of the rear roller from the front r
> ollers. This distance gives you looser or tighter bend radii depending on
> their position. But you have to make sure that the distance is exactly the
> same left-to-right if you want a consistent bend radius. I used a digital
> caliper and got things dialed in pretty well and used a few sample pieces
> of .032 2024-T3 to test. In the testing=2C I found that I could get just t
> he right amount of bend that seemed like it was fitting nicely along the ba
> ggage door mounting. So=2C next=2C I grabbed the real piece of metal for t
> he top baggage door skin and ran the first 4" or so though the roller from
> the front. Then I took it out and put it in from behind and ran it though
> the rollers again which seemed to even the bend out nicely. A trial fit on
> the fuselage and lo' in behold it was a lot closer that it had been. I ad
> justed the rollers again for a little bit more bend and repeated the bendin
> g process. Even closer this time. One more tightening and the fit was lit
> erally perfect! Best of all=2C from the outside of the baggage door skin
> =2C there is NO crease! The natural bend of the door that matches the fuse
> lage top skin simple accelerates evenly over the last 1-2" of the skin whic
> h is just right for making a perfect fit and seal with the top of the fusel
> age.
> >
> > So=2C I'm happy to report that I think I will finally have an acceptable
> baggage door for the RV-8. 'Course=2C I now I have to build this new one u
> sing the freshly rebent skin=2C during which time there is always lots of o
> pportunity to slip with the rivet gun or whatever and cause a catastrophe t
> hat would require a forth attempt. But=2C let's not focus on that... :-)
> >
> >
> > -
> > Matt Dralle
> >
> > RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> > http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> > http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> > Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
> >
> > RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
> > http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
> > Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete=3B Now In Full Flye
> r Mode
> >
> > Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
> > Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
> > Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
> > For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
>
>
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