Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:23 AM - Re: Wing Jig Question (JohnCClarkVA@cs.com)
2. 07:19 AM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Richard E. Tasker)
3. 11:32 AM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Dr. Leathers)
4. 11:34 AM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Dr. Leathers)
5. 01:51 PM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Jim Hosie)
6. 02:12 PM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Jaimes Biard)
7. 02:57 PM - canopy fit questions (barry pote)
8. 03:52 PM - Wing rack (Bobdeva@aol.com)
9. 04:24 PM - Re: Wing Jig Question (JohnCClarkVA@cs.com)
10. 04:25 PM - Re: Wing Jig Question (JohnCClarkVA@cs.com)
11. 05:10 PM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Richard E. Tasker)
12. 05:19 PM - Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks (Richard E. Tasker)
13. 05:25 PM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Jim Hosie)
14. 05:31 PM - Re: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks (Dave Nicholson)
15. 05:53 PM - Re: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks (DThomas773@aol.com)
16. 08:50 PM - Re: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks (Richard E. Tasker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Jig Question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com
Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This allowed
me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach all of
the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc.
Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom rivets
by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked great.
I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the 4
posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the
basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok, but
the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just loosen the
clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the top,
hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the joist,
tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the concrete at
the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will come
down in about 5 minutes. John.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Jig Question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
This is what I expected (44" or so seems more useful than 36" as shown
on the plans). I, too, am in the basement and it is a little crowded
which is why I made a roll-around jig so I can roll it out of the way
when I am not working on the wings.
Thanks for the comments. I will mount mine at a height similar to yours.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Starting the wings!
Do not archive.
JohnCClarkVA@cs.com wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com
>
>Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This allowed
>me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach all of
>the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc.
>Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom rivets
>by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked great.
>I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the 4
>posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the
>basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok, but
>the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just loosen the
>clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the top,
>hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the joist,
>tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the concrete at
>the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will come
>down in about 5 minutes. John.
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Jig Question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Hi John,
I'm getting my shop ready to start on an RV9A. I noticed that you are
building in your basement. I am concerned about noise in my shop because
there is a 24 hour restaurant upstairs from my shop. I am getting an oil
bath compressor because they are
quieter than the others. I wonder about the actual riveting of the airframe.
Can your riveting be heard from upstairs? Is it disruptive for your family?
What percentage of riveting is done with the gun compared to pneumatic or
hand squeezers?
DOC
----- Original Message -----
From: <JohnCClarkVA@cs.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question
> --> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com
>
> Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This
allowed
> me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach all
of
> the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc.
> Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom
rivets
> by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked
great.
> I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the 4
> posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the
> basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok,
but
> the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just loosen
the
> clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the
top,
> hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the
joist,
> tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the concrete
at
> the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will
come
> down in about 5 minutes. John.
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Jig Question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Hi Richard,
I'm getting my shop ready to start on an RV9A. I noticed that you are
building in your basement. I am concerned about noise in my shop because
there is a 24 hour restaurant above my shop. I am getting an oil
bath compressor because they are
quieter than the others. I wonder about the actual riveting of the airframe.
Can your riveting be heard from upstairs? Is it disruptive for your family?
What percentage of riveting is done with the gun compared to pneumatic or
hand squeezers?
Thanks in advance!
DOC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
<retasker@optonline.net>
>
> This is what I expected (44" or so seems more useful than 36" as shown
> on the plans). I, too, am in the basement and it is a little crowded
> which is why I made a roll-around jig so I can roll it out of the way
> when I am not working on the wings.
>
> Thanks for the comments. I will mount mine at a height similar to yours.
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
> Starting the wings!
>
> Do not archive.
>
> JohnCClarkVA@cs.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com
> >
> >Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This
allowed
> >me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach
all of
> >the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc.
> >Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom
rivets
> >by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked
great.
> >I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the 4
> >posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the
> >basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok,
but
> >the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just loosen
the
> >clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the
top,
> >hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the
joist,
> >tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the concrete
at
> >the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will
come
> >down in about 5 minutes. John.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Jig Question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Jim Hosie" <jhosie4@attbi.com>
DOC
That's is a problem, I just retuned my inexpensive (Home Depot) $300 for the
oil bath $400 one just to cut the noise.
I went from 20 gal to 60 to also cut the times it turns on.
Riveting is noisy enough where you need to ware ear protection and the air
drills aren't all that quite ether.
I'm building in my garage and I insulated the door it to keep SOME noise for
escaping to the neighbors.
I'm also looking at other sound proofing "stuff" to keep the noise in and
out of the shop down.
I would also like to hear about noise reductions tips.
Jim
Rudder
N-9SU
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
> Hi John,
>
> I'm getting my shop ready to start on an RV9A. I noticed that you are
> building in your basement. I am concerned about noise in my shop because
> there is a 24 hour restaurant upstairs from my shop. I am getting an oil
> bath compressor because they are
> quieter than the others. I wonder about the actual riveting of the
airframe.
> Can your riveting be heard from upstairs? Is it disruptive for your
family?
> What percentage of riveting is done with the gun compared to pneumatic or
> hand squeezers?
>
> DOC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JohnCClarkVA@cs.com>
> To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question
>
>
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com
> >
> > Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This
> allowed
> > me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach
all
> of
> > the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc.
> > Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom
> rivets
> > by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked
> great.
> > I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the
4
> > posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the
> > basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok,
> but
> > the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just
loosen
> the
> > clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the
> top,
> > hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the
> joist,
> > tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the
concrete
> at
> > the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will
> come
> > down in about 5 minutes. John.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wing Jig Question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Jaimes Biard" <jbiard@charter.net>
Jim
What did you use to insulate your garage doors?
Jaimes
90543
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Hosie
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Jim Hosie" <jhosie4@attbi.com>
DOC
That's is a problem, I just retuned my inexpensive (Home Depot) $300 for the
oil bath $400 one just to cut the noise.
I went from 20 gal to 60 to also cut the times it turns on.
Riveting is noisy enough where you need to ware ear protection and the air
drills aren't all that quite ether.
I'm building in my garage and I insulated the door it to keep SOME noise for
escaping to the neighbors.
I'm also looking at other sound proofing "stuff" to keep the noise in and
out of the shop down.
I would also like to hear about noise reductions tips.
Jim
Rudder
N-9SU
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
> Hi John,
>
> I'm getting my shop ready to start on an RV9A. I noticed that you are
> building in your basement. I am concerned about noise in my shop because
> there is a 24 hour restaurant upstairs from my shop. I am getting an oil
> bath compressor because they are
> quieter than the others. I wonder about the actual riveting of the
airframe.
> Can your riveting be heard from upstairs? Is it disruptive for your
family?
> What percentage of riveting is done with the gun compared to pneumatic or
> hand squeezers?
>
> DOC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JohnCClarkVA@cs.com>
> To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question
>
>
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com
> >
> > Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This
> allowed
> > me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach
all
> of
> > the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc.
> > Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom
> rivets
> > by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked
> great.
> > I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the
4
> > posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the
> > basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok,
> but
> > the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just
loosen
> the
> > clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the
> top,
> > hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the
> joist,
> > tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the
concrete
> at
> > the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will
> come
> > down in about 5 minutes. John.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | canopy fit questions |
--> RV9-List message posted by: barry pote <barrypote@comcast.net>
If some of you guys that 'have been there and done that' could comment
on the following questions:
The front of the canopy is drilled and clecoed to the canopy frame, and
to the back bone. According to the plans, the rear of the canopy does
not get drilled till the rear skin is drilled to it. In order to get the
right and left bottom edges of the canopy plexiglass down for drilling
to the 660, some light pressure is required on the rear of the
plexiglass to bring it down to the rear canopy bow.
1. if you do this on the fuselage, someone might have to be inside the
canopy to apply clamps to the rear. Has anyone drilled the right and
left lower sides of the plexiglass to the canopy frame skirts, OFF THE
fuselage? Has anyone drilled and clecoed the rear plexiglass to the
rear canopy bow, to accomplish this?
2. On the front....the front fuselage top skin finishes at the roll bar.
The windshield kind of squashes it (that top skin) at the rollbar. Van's
told me that the manual probably still tells us that we can slit the
skin (I saw this on an RV6a..Orndorff tapes) and let the plexiglass wind
shield go behind it (the skin) near the rollbar. The manual (mine) does
not mention this. How did you all do this?
Barry Pote RV9a canopy in 2 pieces and lots of holes drilled and no
cracks....YET.
Message 8
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--> RV9-List message posted by: Bobdeva@aol.com
I made my rack for the spar 48" off the floor. Works OK for me. I'm 6' tall
Bob Devaney
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Jig Question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com
My wife sees clients until 9 in the evening. I cannot rivet at that time.
The oil compressor is not a problem. The pneumatic drill is not a problem.
I use the squeezer about 30%of the time, just a wild guess. If the
restaurant is noisy, may not be a problem. You may be able to put some foam
on the ceiling and cut the noise some. Good luck.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Jig Question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com
I forgot to mention the family. The bedrooms are on the second floor and
noise is not a problem.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Jig Question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Well, I hate to tell you, but it is noisy. It can be heard upstairs,
but my family is understanding. It is not so loud that you can't do
anything else when I am riveting, but it is definitely noticeable. If
the restaurant is a quiet little bistro then you've probably got
problems. If it is a boisterous family restaurant then you are okay.
For the empennage (which is all I have completed so far) way more than
half is gun riveting. On the other hand, the majority of the time spent
building is not riveting of any kind (assembling, drilling,
disassembling, deburring, cleaning, painting, thinking...).
Good luck!
Dick Tasker, 90573
Dr. Leathers wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
>Hi Richard,
>
>I'm getting my shop ready to start on an RV9A. I noticed that you are
>building in your basement. I am concerned about noise in my shop because
>there is a 24 hour restaurant above my shop. I am getting an oil
>bath compressor because they are
>quieter than the others. I wonder about the actual riveting of the airframe.
>Can your riveting be heard from upstairs? Is it disruptive for your family?
>What percentage of riveting is done with the gun compared to pneumatic or
>hand squeezers?
>
>Thanks in advance!
>DOC
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
>To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
>>
>>
><retasker@optonline.net>
>
>
>>This is what I expected (44" or so seems more useful than 36" as shown
>>on the plans). I, too, am in the basement and it is a little crowded
>>which is why I made a roll-around jig so I can roll it out of the way
>>when I am not working on the wings.
>>
>>Thanks for the comments. I will mount mine at a height similar to yours.
>>
>>Dick Tasker, 90573
>>Starting the wings!
>>
>>Do not archive.
>>
>>JohnCClarkVA@cs.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com
>>>
>>>Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This
>>>
>>>
>allowed
>
>
>>>me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach
>>>
>>>
>all of
>
>
>>>the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc.
>>>Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom
>>>
>>>
>rivets
>
>
>>>by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked
>>>
>>>
>great.
>
>
>>>I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the 4
>>>posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the
>>>basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok,
>>>
>>>
>but
>
>
>>>the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just loosen
>>>
>>>
>the
>
>
>>>clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the
>>>
>>>
>top,
>
>
>>>hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the
>>>
>>>
>joist,
>
>
>>>tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the concrete
>>>
>>>
>at
>
>
>>>the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will
>>>
>>>
>come
>
>
>>>down in about 5 minutes. John.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
I am starting my wing. By the way, I ended up mounting the crosspiece
on the wing jig 48" above the ground and it seems to be just about
perfect so far.
The plans say to use a scrap 0.032" piece of aluminum, dimple a hole to
fit the #8 screws (and another for the #6 screws) and use that to size
the countersink in the main spar. I have done that but the countersink
in the main spar looks very large if I actually make it large enough
that the 0.032" piece fits properly. The diameter of the top of the
countersink for the #8 screw is almost 3/8" diameter.
Is this okay and correct? It seems to be a rather large hole in the
spar (actually dozens of them) and I want to be sure before I do
something so drastic to the spar...
Thanks,
Dick Tasker, 90573
Startiing the wings!
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Jig Question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Jim Hosie" <jhosie4@attbi.com>
Jim,
Home Depot has a Garage Door Kit, it comes with the panels precut.
They're made of hardboard insulation and finished with vinyl on one side.
It is a 45 minutes project putting them in.
Keeps the heat in much of the noise from the neighborhood.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaimes Biard" <jbiard@charter.net>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Jaimes Biard" <jbiard@charter.net>
>
> Jim
>
> What did you use to insulate your garage doors?
>
> Jaimes
> 90543
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Hosie
> To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question
>
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Jim Hosie" <jhosie4@attbi.com>
>
> DOC
> That's is a problem, I just retuned my inexpensive (Home Depot) $300 for
the
> oil bath $400 one just to cut the noise.
> I went from 20 gal to 60 to also cut the times it turns on.
>
> Riveting is noisy enough where you need to ware ear protection and the air
> drills aren't all that quite ether.
> I'm building in my garage and I insulated the door it to keep SOME noise
for
> escaping to the neighbors.
>
> I'm also looking at other sound proofing "stuff" to keep the noise in and
> out of the shop down.
> I would also like to hear about noise reductions tips.
>
> Jim
> Rudder
> N-9SU
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
> To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question
>
>
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
> >
> > Hi John,
> >
> > I'm getting my shop ready to start on an RV9A. I noticed that you are
> > building in your basement. I am concerned about noise in my shop because
> > there is a 24 hour restaurant upstairs from my shop. I am getting an oil
> > bath compressor because they are
> > quieter than the others. I wonder about the actual riveting of the
> airframe.
> > Can your riveting be heard from upstairs? Is it disruptive for your
> family?
> > What percentage of riveting is done with the gun compared to pneumatic
or
> > hand squeezers?
> >
> > DOC
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <JohnCClarkVA@cs.com>
> > To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question
> >
> >
> > > --> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com
> > >
> > > Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This
> > allowed
> > > me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach
> all
> > of
> > > the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes,
etc.
> > > Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom
> > rivets
> > > by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked
> > great.
> > > I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for
the
> 4
> > > posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the
> > > basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works
ok,
> > but
> > > the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just
> loosen
> > the
> > > clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the
> > top,
> > > hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the
> > joist,
> > > tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the
> concrete
> > at
> > > the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will
> > come
> > > down in about 5 minutes. John.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2@insightbb.com>
Check out Chris Heitman's Web Site at:
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/csink.html
to see how he handled this issue.
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
<retasker@optonline.net>
>
> I am starting my wing. By the way, I ended up mounting the crosspiece
> on the wing jig 48" above the ground and it seems to be just about
> perfect so far.
>
> The plans say to use a scrap 0.032" piece of aluminum, dimple a hole to
> fit the #8 screws (and another for the #6 screws) and use that to size
> the countersink in the main spar. I have done that but the countersink
> in the main spar looks very large if I actually make it large enough
> that the 0.032" piece fits properly. The diameter of the top of the
> countersink for the #8 screw is almost 3/8" diameter.
>
> Is this okay and correct? It seems to be a rather large hole in the
> spar (actually dozens of them) and I want to be sure before I do
> something so drastic to the spar...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
> Startiing the wings!
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks |
--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
Hi Dick,
I was really concerned about the size of holes I was cutting into the spar
flange when I was countersinking for the #8 nutplates. I called Van's and
they said it was OK. The countersink actually is going through the spar
flange but you are adding a steel nutplate to back it up and that provides
the needed strength.
Dennis Thomas
RV9
finishing wings
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Thanks. That was my concern and since Van's is not available on
weekends :-( I couldn't ask them until next week.
I will countersink like crazy this weekend now!
Dick Tasker, 90573
Do not archive
DThomas773@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
>
>Hi Dick,
>I was really concerned about the size of holes I was cutting into the spar
>flange when I was countersinking for the #8 nutplates. I called Van's and
>they said it was OK. The countersink actually is going through the spar
>flange but you are adding a steel nutplate to back it up and that provides
>the needed strength.
>Dennis Thomas
>RV9
>finishing wings
>
>
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