---------------------------------------------------------- RV9-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 12/14/02: 16 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:23 AM - Re: Wing Jig Question (JohnCClarkVA@cs.com) 2. 07:19 AM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Richard E. Tasker) 3. 11:32 AM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Dr. Leathers) 4. 11:34 AM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Dr. Leathers) 5. 01:51 PM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Jim Hosie) 6. 02:12 PM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Jaimes Biard) 7. 02:57 PM - canopy fit questions (barry pote) 8. 03:52 PM - Wing rack (Bobdeva@aol.com) 9. 04:24 PM - Re: Wing Jig Question (JohnCClarkVA@cs.com) 10. 04:25 PM - Re: Wing Jig Question (JohnCClarkVA@cs.com) 11. 05:10 PM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Richard E. Tasker) 12. 05:19 PM - Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks (Richard E. Tasker) 13. 05:25 PM - Re: Wing Jig Question (Jim Hosie) 14. 05:31 PM - Re: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks (Dave Nicholson) 15. 05:53 PM - Re: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks (DThomas773@aol.com) 16. 08:50 PM - Re: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks (Richard E. Tasker) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:23:36 AM PST US From: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question --> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This allowed me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach all of the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc. Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom rivets by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked great. I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the 4 posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok, but the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just loosen the clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the top, hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the joist, tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the concrete at the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will come down in about 5 minutes. John. ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:19:23 AM PST US From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" This is what I expected (44" or so seems more useful than 36" as shown on the plans). I, too, am in the basement and it is a little crowded which is why I made a roll-around jig so I can roll it out of the way when I am not working on the wings. Thanks for the comments. I will mount mine at a height similar to yours. Dick Tasker, 90573 Starting the wings! Do not archive. JohnCClarkVA@cs.com wrote: >--> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com > >Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This allowed >me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach all of >the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc. >Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom rivets >by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked great. >I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the 4 >posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the >basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok, but >the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just loosen the >clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the top, >hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the joist, >tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the concrete at >the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will come >down in about 5 minutes. John. > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 11:32:53 AM PST US From: "Dr. Leathers" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question --> RV9-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" Hi John, I'm getting my shop ready to start on an RV9A. I noticed that you are building in your basement. I am concerned about noise in my shop because there is a 24 hour restaurant upstairs from my shop. I am getting an oil bath compressor because they are quieter than the others. I wonder about the actual riveting of the airframe. Can your riveting be heard from upstairs? Is it disruptive for your family? What percentage of riveting is done with the gun compared to pneumatic or hand squeezers? DOC ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question > --> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com > > Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This allowed > me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach all of > the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc. > Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom rivets > by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked great. > I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the 4 > posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the > basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok, but > the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just loosen the > clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the top, > hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the joist, > tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the concrete at > the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will come > down in about 5 minutes. John. > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 11:34:57 AM PST US From: "Dr. Leathers" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question --> RV9-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" Hi Richard, I'm getting my shop ready to start on an RV9A. I noticed that you are building in your basement. I am concerned about noise in my shop because there is a 24 hour restaurant above my shop. I am getting an oil bath compressor because they are quieter than the others. I wonder about the actual riveting of the airframe. Can your riveting be heard from upstairs? Is it disruptive for your family? What percentage of riveting is done with the gun compared to pneumatic or hand squeezers? Thanks in advance! DOC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" > > This is what I expected (44" or so seems more useful than 36" as shown > on the plans). I, too, am in the basement and it is a little crowded > which is why I made a roll-around jig so I can roll it out of the way > when I am not working on the wings. > > Thanks for the comments. I will mount mine at a height similar to yours. > > Dick Tasker, 90573 > Starting the wings! > > Do not archive. > > JohnCClarkVA@cs.com wrote: > > >--> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com > > > >Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This allowed > >me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach all of > >the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc. > >Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom rivets > >by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked great. > >I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the 4 > >posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the > >basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok, but > >the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just loosen the > >clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the top, > >hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the joist, > >tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the concrete at > >the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will come > >down in about 5 minutes. John. > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:51:49 PM PST US From: "Jim Hosie" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question --> RV9-List message posted by: "Jim Hosie" DOC That's is a problem, I just retuned my inexpensive (Home Depot) $300 for the oil bath $400 one just to cut the noise. I went from 20 gal to 60 to also cut the times it turns on. Riveting is noisy enough where you need to ware ear protection and the air drills aren't all that quite ether. I'm building in my garage and I insulated the door it to keep SOME noise for escaping to the neighbors. I'm also looking at other sound proofing "stuff" to keep the noise in and out of the shop down. I would also like to hear about noise reductions tips. Jim Rudder N-9SU ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. Leathers" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" > > Hi John, > > I'm getting my shop ready to start on an RV9A. I noticed that you are > building in your basement. I am concerned about noise in my shop because > there is a 24 hour restaurant upstairs from my shop. I am getting an oil > bath compressor because they are > quieter than the others. I wonder about the actual riveting of the airframe. > Can your riveting be heard from upstairs? Is it disruptive for your family? > What percentage of riveting is done with the gun compared to pneumatic or > hand squeezers? > > DOC > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question > > > > --> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com > > > > Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This > allowed > > me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach all > of > > the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc. > > Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom > rivets > > by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked > great. > > I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the 4 > > posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the > > basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok, > but > > the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just loosen > the > > clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the > top, > > hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the > joist, > > tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the concrete > at > > the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will > come > > down in about 5 minutes. John. > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 02:12:46 PM PST US From: "Jaimes Biard" Subject: RE: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question --> RV9-List message posted by: "Jaimes Biard" Jim What did you use to insulate your garage doors? Jaimes 90543 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Hosie Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question --> RV9-List message posted by: "Jim Hosie" DOC That's is a problem, I just retuned my inexpensive (Home Depot) $300 for the oil bath $400 one just to cut the noise. I went from 20 gal to 60 to also cut the times it turns on. Riveting is noisy enough where you need to ware ear protection and the air drills aren't all that quite ether. I'm building in my garage and I insulated the door it to keep SOME noise for escaping to the neighbors. I'm also looking at other sound proofing "stuff" to keep the noise in and out of the shop down. I would also like to hear about noise reductions tips. Jim Rudder N-9SU ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. Leathers" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" > > Hi John, > > I'm getting my shop ready to start on an RV9A. I noticed that you are > building in your basement. I am concerned about noise in my shop because > there is a 24 hour restaurant upstairs from my shop. I am getting an oil > bath compressor because they are > quieter than the others. I wonder about the actual riveting of the airframe. > Can your riveting be heard from upstairs? Is it disruptive for your family? > What percentage of riveting is done with the gun compared to pneumatic or > hand squeezers? > > DOC > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question > > > > --> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com > > > > Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This > allowed > > me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach all > of > > the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc. > > Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom > rivets > > by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked > great. > > I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the 4 > > posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the > > basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok, > but > > the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just loosen > the > > clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the > top, > > hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the > joist, > > tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the concrete > at > > the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will > come > > down in about 5 minutes. John. > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 02:57:18 PM PST US From: barry pote Subject: RV9-List: canopy fit questions --> RV9-List message posted by: barry pote If some of you guys that 'have been there and done that' could comment on the following questions: The front of the canopy is drilled and clecoed to the canopy frame, and to the back bone. According to the plans, the rear of the canopy does not get drilled till the rear skin is drilled to it. In order to get the right and left bottom edges of the canopy plexiglass down for drilling to the 660, some light pressure is required on the rear of the plexiglass to bring it down to the rear canopy bow. 1. if you do this on the fuselage, someone might have to be inside the canopy to apply clamps to the rear. Has anyone drilled the right and left lower sides of the plexiglass to the canopy frame skirts, OFF THE fuselage? Has anyone drilled and clecoed the rear plexiglass to the rear canopy bow, to accomplish this? 2. On the front....the front fuselage top skin finishes at the roll bar. The windshield kind of squashes it (that top skin) at the rollbar. Van's told me that the manual probably still tells us that we can slit the skin (I saw this on an RV6a..Orndorff tapes) and let the plexiglass wind shield go behind it (the skin) near the rollbar. The manual (mine) does not mention this. How did you all do this? Barry Pote RV9a canopy in 2 pieces and lots of holes drilled and no cracks....YET. ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 03:52:01 PM PST US From: Bobdeva@aol.com Subject: RV9-List: Wing rack --> RV9-List message posted by: Bobdeva@aol.com I made my rack for the spar 48" off the floor. Works OK for me. I'm 6' tall Bob Devaney ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 04:24:40 PM PST US From: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question --> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com My wife sees clients until 9 in the evening. I cannot rivet at that time. The oil compressor is not a problem. The pneumatic drill is not a problem. I use the squeezer about 30%of the time, just a wild guess. If the restaurant is noisy, may not be a problem. You may be able to put some foam on the ceiling and cut the noise some. Good luck. ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 04:25:36 PM PST US From: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question --> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com I forgot to mention the family. The bedrooms are on the second floor and noise is not a problem. ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 05:10:24 PM PST US From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" Well, I hate to tell you, but it is noisy. It can be heard upstairs, but my family is understanding. It is not so loud that you can't do anything else when I am riveting, but it is definitely noticeable. If the restaurant is a quiet little bistro then you've probably got problems. If it is a boisterous family restaurant then you are okay. For the empennage (which is all I have completed so far) way more than half is gun riveting. On the other hand, the majority of the time spent building is not riveting of any kind (assembling, drilling, disassembling, deburring, cleaning, painting, thinking...). Good luck! Dick Tasker, 90573 Dr. Leathers wrote: >--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" > >Hi Richard, > >I'm getting my shop ready to start on an RV9A. I noticed that you are >building in your basement. I am concerned about noise in my shop because >there is a 24 hour restaurant above my shop. I am getting an oil >bath compressor because they are >quieter than the others. I wonder about the actual riveting of the airframe. >Can your riveting be heard from upstairs? Is it disruptive for your family? >What percentage of riveting is done with the gun compared to pneumatic or >hand squeezers? > >Thanks in advance! >DOC > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Richard E. Tasker" >To: >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question > > > > >>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" >> >> > > > >>This is what I expected (44" or so seems more useful than 36" as shown >>on the plans). I, too, am in the basement and it is a little crowded >>which is why I made a roll-around jig so I can roll it out of the way >>when I am not working on the wings. >> >>Thanks for the comments. I will mount mine at a height similar to yours. >> >>Dick Tasker, 90573 >>Starting the wings! >> >>Do not archive. >> >>JohnCClarkVA@cs.com wrote: >> >> >> >>>--> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com >>> >>>Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This >>> >>> >allowed > > >>>me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach >>> >>> >all of > > >>>the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc. >>>Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom >>> >>> >rivets > > >>>by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked >>> >>> >great. > > >>>I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the 4 >>>posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the >>>basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok, >>> >>> >but > > >>>the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just loosen >>> >>> >the > > >>>clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the >>> >>> >top, > > >>>hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the >>> >>> >joist, > > >>>tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the concrete >>> >>> >at > > >>>the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will >>> >>> >come > > >>>down in about 5 minutes. John. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 05:19:29 PM PST US From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: RV9-List: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" I am starting my wing. By the way, I ended up mounting the crosspiece on the wing jig 48" above the ground and it seems to be just about perfect so far. The plans say to use a scrap 0.032" piece of aluminum, dimple a hole to fit the #8 screws (and another for the #6 screws) and use that to size the countersink in the main spar. I have done that but the countersink in the main spar looks very large if I actually make it large enough that the 0.032" piece fits properly. The diameter of the top of the countersink for the #8 screw is almost 3/8" diameter. Is this okay and correct? It seems to be a rather large hole in the spar (actually dozens of them) and I want to be sure before I do something so drastic to the spar... Thanks, Dick Tasker, 90573 Startiing the wings! ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 05:25:13 PM PST US From: "Jim Hosie" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question --> RV9-List message posted by: "Jim Hosie" Jim, Home Depot has a Garage Door Kit, it comes with the panels precut. They're made of hardboard insulation and finished with vinyl on one side. It is a 45 minutes project putting them in. Keeps the heat in much of the noise from the neighborhood. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jaimes Biard" Subject: RE: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Jaimes Biard" > > Jim > > What did you use to insulate your garage doors? > > Jaimes > 90543 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Hosie > To: rv9-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question > > > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Jim Hosie" > > DOC > That's is a problem, I just retuned my inexpensive (Home Depot) $300 for the > oil bath $400 one just to cut the noise. > I went from 20 gal to 60 to also cut the times it turns on. > > Riveting is noisy enough where you need to ware ear protection and the air > drills aren't all that quite ether. > I'm building in my garage and I insulated the door it to keep SOME noise for > escaping to the neighbors. > > I'm also looking at other sound proofing "stuff" to keep the noise in and > out of the shop down. > I would also like to hear about noise reductions tips. > > Jim > Rudder > N-9SU > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dr. Leathers" > To: > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question > > > > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" > > > > Hi John, > > > > I'm getting my shop ready to start on an RV9A. I noticed that you are > > building in your basement. I am concerned about noise in my shop because > > there is a 24 hour restaurant upstairs from my shop. I am getting an oil > > bath compressor because they are > > quieter than the others. I wonder about the actual riveting of the > airframe. > > Can your riveting be heard from upstairs? Is it disruptive for your > family? > > What percentage of riveting is done with the gun compared to pneumatic or > > hand squeezers? > > > > DOC > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Jig Question > > > > > > > --> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com > > > > > > Hi Dick, just a few comments. I put the wing bracket at 44". This > > allowed > > > me to put the ailerons on while in the jig and made it easier to reach > all > > of > > > the rivets. and work on the bell cranks, install the wiring tubes, etc. > > > Riveting the bottom skins was easy in the jig and I did all the bottom > > rivets > > > by myself with little effort. Did not plan it that way but it worked > > great. > > > I used what I had, 3 4x4s and 2 2x6s that were screwed together for the > 4 > > > posts. Then I clamped them to the microlam floor joists (I am in the > > > basement). I just let the bottom ends rest on the concrete. Works ok, > > but > > > the bottom ends would come up a little in cold wx and I would just > loosen > > the > > > clamp and reset themt. Then I found I could take another clamp at the > > top, > > > hook the top end over the post, the bottom end under the bottom of the > > joist, > > > tighten a little and the post would be pushed down firmly on the > concrete > > at > > > the other end. Once I remove the wings, perhaps today, the posts will > > come > > > down in about 5 minutes. John. > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 05:31:11 PM PST US From: "Dave Nicholson" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks --> RV9-List message posted by: "Dave Nicholson" Check out Chris Heitman's Web Site at: http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/csink.html to see how he handled this issue. Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: RV9-List: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" > > I am starting my wing. By the way, I ended up mounting the crosspiece > on the wing jig 48" above the ground and it seems to be just about > perfect so far. > > The plans say to use a scrap 0.032" piece of aluminum, dimple a hole to > fit the #8 screws (and another for the #6 screws) and use that to size > the countersink in the main spar. I have done that but the countersink > in the main spar looks very large if I actually make it large enough > that the 0.032" piece fits properly. The diameter of the top of the > countersink for the #8 screw is almost 3/8" diameter. > > Is this okay and correct? It seems to be a rather large hole in the > spar (actually dozens of them) and I want to be sure before I do > something so drastic to the spar... > > Thanks, > > Dick Tasker, 90573 > Startiing the wings! ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 05:53:17 PM PST US From: DThomas773@aol.com Subject: Re: RV9-List: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks --> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com Hi Dick, I was really concerned about the size of holes I was cutting into the spar flange when I was countersinking for the #8 nutplates. I called Van's and they said it was OK. The countersink actually is going through the spar flange but you are adding a steel nutplate to back it up and that provides the needed strength. Dennis Thomas RV9 finishing wings ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 08:50:06 PM PST US From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Main Spar #6 and #8 countersinks --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" Thanks. That was my concern and since Van's is not available on weekends :-( I couldn't ask them until next week. I will countersink like crazy this weekend now! Dick Tasker, 90573 Do not archive DThomas773@aol.com wrote: >--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com > >Hi Dick, >I was really concerned about the size of holes I was cutting into the spar >flange when I was countersinking for the #8 nutplates. I called Van's and >they said it was OK. The countersink actually is going through the spar >flange but you are adding a steel nutplate to back it up and that provides >the needed strength. >Dennis Thomas >RV9 >finishing wings > >