Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:13 AM - Re: Doghouse Quality (Ernest Kells)
2. 08:56 AM - Re: Doghouse Quality (Leland)
3. 11:48 AM - Re: Doghouse Quality (Andy Karmy)
4. 12:16 PM - [ Fred Stucklen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
5. 03:11 PM - Re: F774skin / F732B bracket / F632A channel - tipper builders only. (Steve Sampson)
6. 07:31 PM - main gear farings (steve dwyer)
7. 07:51 PM - Re: main gear farings (Dave Nicholson)
8. 07:53 PM - Re: main gear farings (Dave Nicholson)
9. 08:28 PM - HS 908 Angle Brackets (Glenn Brasch)
10. 08:44 PM - Re: HS 908 Angle Brackets (Dave Nicholson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Doghouse Quality |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
I think that the part just looks defective. Mine looked "defective" as
well. It is stamped out of very thin stuff - but it is non-structural. It
requires a bit bending and a lot of shaping - in assembly. I even had to
trim the plastic sliding doohickey to get a good fit. This is an area where
the fabrication and fitting will be unique to each airplane's fuselage +
canopy + frame + side skirts + rail, etc. In retrospect I think that the
sucky-looking part is what Vans needs to ship. Not everything can be
pre-punched - and this thing can't be. When done it will look very good.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
> Please explain further. Am I getting this straight? Van's sent you a
> defective or damaged part with your kit. You called and spoke to Tom about
> the problem. Tom told you he would send a replacement part, but forewarned
> you that the replacement part would also be damaged or defective?? What am
I
> missing here?
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Doghouse Quality |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Leland" <RV9AQB@frys.com>
Dr. Leathers: If I remeber correctly, Tom said that he did not expect the
replacement part to be any better. This looks like a part for some
entrepeneur to make and sell.
Speaking of entrepeneurs, did everyone get a look at these really need
pre-cut panels:
http://www.affordablepanels.com/pricing.html
Leland
Working on wheel pants
> Hi Leland,
> Please explain further. Am I getting this straight? Van's sent you a
> defective or damaged part with your kit. You called and spoke to Tom about
> the problem. Tom told you he would send a replacement part, but forewarned
> you that the replacement part would also be damaged or defective?? What am
I
> missing here?
>
> DOC
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Doghouse Quality |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
Not only have I taken a look at them, I look at it each time I get into the plane!
I love it. I just installed the plates for the last time (I hope) as I finished
up the panel install and they are looking and working great...
- Andy Karmy
RV9A Seattle WA
T-2 wks for move to airport...
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Leland" <RV9AQB@frys.com>
>Speaking of entrepeneurs, did everyone get a look at these really need
>pre-cut panels:
>http://www.affordablepanels.com/pricing.html
Message 4
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| Subject: | [ Fred Stucklen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Fred Stucklen <wstucklen1@cox.net>
Subject: RV-6A IFR Inst Panel & Wiring
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/wstucklen1@cox.net.01.02.2003/index.html
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o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures@matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
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Message 5
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| Subject: | F774skin / F732B bracket / F632A channel - tipper builders |
only.
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Gary - I should have dropped you a mail before I posted that and explained.
I just wanted to see what others had to say and if anyone had talked to VANS
about it. Your mail was very helpful and I fully understood it. I have
dropped the same query to VANS but I guess they are out at the moment....or
have been.
As I get more involved with it, it seems to me that it is the most
inaccurate aspect of the plans to date. I now have the bracket in place and
it fits tight into the flange of the bulkhead. It seems to me there should
be two rows of rivets. Some 1/8th in the position shown on the drawing of
the bracket, tyeing the bracket and channel together, and then behind them
some 3/32nd going right through the skin, reinforcing plate, flange and
bracket and channel. They sure don't indicate that. (There cant be many
rivets that go through 5 items! Done that way I think it would be tidy.
The other bit which I think is poor is the fact that although the channel is
18 11/16th long at the top face just where it fits on the bracket is poorly
defined. It is going into a curved corner so is very judgemental. Yet it
controls the position of the upper edge of the role bar. As you said that
need NOT be very accurate which is perhaps the good news. See my note below.
I have just about sorted the role bar out that I was having some difficulty
with and have been working on fitting it to the brackets on the cockpit
coming. It all seems to be coming together.
Thanks again Gary.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Subject: Re: RV9-List: F774skin / F732B bracket / F632A channel - tipper
builders only.
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Steve......this is one of the things I tried to explain in that long email
about Tip-up stuff. It is hard to describe until you start putting the
stuff together.
I think the best solution is like you say.....use long rivets through the
whole works. The drawings do not acknowlege the problem, so don't try to
follow them on that point. Also, I long ago stopped paying much attention
to rivet length callouts. I use my homemade length gage instead.
My rollover brace channel F-732A just fits up against the bulkhead at the
top. Surely its below the bracket so being pushed away from the bulkhead by
the bracket.) I don't think it matters if you want to leave a little gap.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Sampson
To: rv9-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 11:20 AM
Subject: RV9-List: F774skin / F732B bracket / F632A channel - tipper
builders only.
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
<SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
I'm sorry guys - me again. I don't want to be obtuse but I cant for the
life
of me figure out the junction of the above parts. DWG 39 & 40.
Are the 3/32 skin rivets meant to go through the skin / bulkhead flange,
F732B bracket and F632A channel?
If YES - then the rivet callout is wrong, and it is not indicated this way
on the plans.
If NO - then there is nowhere for the shopheads to go. They will have to
go
at least through the F732B.
Also, a related question. How far from the bulkhead is the rear edge of
the
the F632A channel? It appears about 3/16th or " on view D-D Dwg40, but I
can not find it defined.
Message 6
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| Subject: | main gear farings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "steve dwyer" <stdwyer@dreamscape.com>
It appears van wants us to fabricate the upper main gear intersect faring after
the wings are installed at least thats my take on this according to the drawing.
I really dont want to do to do this kind of work once the plane has been moved
to the hanger has anyone rigged some sort of temporary bottom wing skin surface
to lay up the glass to? If so can I have your thoughts.
Van gives us the option of placing wood dampening strips on either the front or
aft side of the main gear legs. It really looks like the front is the best choice
since the brake line gives us the best configuration wrap around to the break
cylinder if it comes down the aft. If we are trying to dampen possible vibrations
would oak casing be better than pine or is it to stiff or does it not matter?
It would appear the greater the mass of wood material would be most effective,
I know some of you are ignoring this altogether but in my case I know how my
luck runs given murphys law and all, I really dont want to have to retrofit my
gear legs after the plane is completed.
Steve Dwyer Slider Canopy and Windscreen completed 90219
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: main gear farings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2@insightbb.com>
Steve,
Check out
http://www.fairings-etc.com/
Bob Snedaker is in the process of completing the Prototypes for the RV-9A
and indicated he expected have them available later this month.
As far as the wood dampening strips, here's what Van's said back in Aug:
--------------------
> Gus,
>
> What's the current thinking on the need for the Wood Damping Strips?
My thinking is don't do it til you fly and can determine if you need
them or not. None of Van's airplanes have them.
>
> If they're needed, is the front better than the back?
> is easier
> If the back side is best how do you deal with the brake line?
>
The brake line is on the front of the gear leg, so it doesn't
interfere.You can zip tie it to the gear leg when the stiffener is
installed.
Gus
-----------
Dave
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve dwyer" <stdwyer@dreamscape.com>
Subject: RV9-List: main gear farings
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "steve dwyer" <stdwyer@dreamscape.com>
>
> It appears van wants us to fabricate the upper main gear intersect faring
after the wings are installed at least thats my take on this according to
the drawing. I really dont want to do to do this kind of work once the plane
has been moved to the hanger has anyone rigged some sort of temporary bottom
wing skin surface to lay up the glass to? If so can I have your thoughts.
>
> Van gives us the option of placing wood dampening strips on either the
front or aft side of the main gear legs. It really looks like the front is
the best choice since the brake line gives us the best configuration wrap
around to the break cylinder if it comes down the aft. If we are trying to
dampen possible vibrations
> would oak casing be better than pine or is it to stiff or does it not
matter? It would appear the greater the mass of wood material would be most
effective, I know some of you are ignoring this altogether but in my case I
know how my luck runs given murphys law and all, I really dont want to have
to retrofit my gear legs after the plane is completed.
>
> Steve Dwyer Slider Canopy and Windscreen completed 90219
> >
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: main gear farings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2@insightbb.com>
Steve,
Check out
http://www.fairings-etc.com/
Bob Snedaker is in the process of completing the Prototypes for the RV-9A
and indicated he expected have them available later this month.
As far as the wood dampening strips, here's what Van's said back in Aug:
On 29 Aug 02, at 7:53, Dave Nicholson wrote:
> Gus,
>
> What's the current thinking on the need for the Wood Damping Strips?
My thinking is don't do it til you fly and can determine if you need
them or not. None of Van's airplanes have them.
>
> If they're needed, is the front better than the back?
>
back is easier
> If the back side is best how do you deal with the brake line?
>
The brake line is on the front of the gear leg, so it doesn't
interfere.You can zip tie it to the gear leg when the stiffener is
installed.
Gus
Dave
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve dwyer" <stdwyer@dreamscape.com>
Subject: RV9-List: main gear farings
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "steve dwyer" <stdwyer@dreamscape.com>
>
> It appears van wants us to fabricate the upper main gear intersect faring
after the wings are installed at least thats my take on this according to
the drawing. I really dont want to do to do this kind of work once the plane
has been moved to the hanger has anyone rigged some sort of temporary bottom
wing skin surface to lay up the glass to? If so can I have your thoughts.
>
> Van gives us the option of placing wood dampening strips on either the
front or aft side of the main gear legs. It really looks like the front is
the best choice since the brake line gives us the best configuration wrap
around to the break cylinder if it comes down the aft. If we are trying to
dampen possible vibrations
> would oak casing be better than pine or is it to stiff or does it not
matter? It would appear the greater the mass of wood material would be most
effective, I know some of you are ignoring this altogether but in my case I
know how my luck runs given murphys law and all, I really dont want to have
to retrofit my gear legs after the plane is completed.
>
> Steve Dwyer Slider Canopy and Windscreen completed 90219
> >
Message 9
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| Subject: | HS 908 Angle Brackets |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
I am just prior to riveting the HS'er's. I have things cleco'ed together before
final dis-assembly and was putting the brackets in place to check things over.
I swore before I match drilled the brackets to the spar and doubler that they
were perfectly aligned. Now, they both seem to be off of alignment by 1/32nd
each in opposite directions, which seems to exaggerate the problem. Have I really
messed up somehow, or will it all "come together" in the end. Thanks in
advance. Glenn Brasch/Arizona.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: HS 908 Angle Brackets |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2@insightbb.com>
Glenn,
Check to see if you have them reversed, either now or when you drilled them.
If they are drilled "bad", you can get some 5/32" Universal Rivets, and
re-drill the holes.
BTW, if you wait until the HS is completely assembled before riveting these
angles in place, things will go easier. (Check the Archives for more
information on this issue.)
Dave
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV9-List: HS 908 Angle Brackets
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> I am just prior to riveting the HS'er's. I have things cleco'ed together
before final dis-assembly and was putting the brackets in place to check
things over. I swore before I match drilled the brackets to the spar and
doubler that they were perfectly aligned. Now, they both seem to be off of
alignment by 1/32nd each in opposite directions, which seems to exaggerate
the problem. Have I really messed up somehow, or will it all "come together"
in the end. Thanks in advance. Glenn Brasch/Arizona.
>
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